viv w

"It is NOT illegal to remove and /or remount a VIN tag. It is only illegal if it is done in an attempt to deceive." Restorer32, I suggest you google removing and remounting vin numbers, there is lots of info on why you must not tamper with or remove vin numbers for any reason. It varies from state to state and can be a federal or state offence, or both, to remove vin numbers, even to repaint underneath, without getting permission first and if necessary your state police involved. In some states you can be arrested, fined and jailed for removing the vin without permission. In some instances cars have been impounded and destroyed where authorities get involved. In other cases where vin plates have been removed to repaint a car, it may mean that you cannot sell the car, as it may cause problems later down the line. My advice to anyone wanting to remove the vin for restoration or repair work is, talk to your local authorities BEFORE you remove a vin number.

Price dropped to 20usd plus shipping. Any interest or shall I dump them ??

Hi All, I have been buying parts for my 1927 advanced 6 for many years and I've shipped parts to my sister in Canada, so that I can later freight parts I needed over to me. I have some parts that are sitting in Canada that are excess to requirements and need to go, if you are interested in any of these parts please PM me and if you think my price is too high, then shoot me an offer. All prices do not include shipping/postage. Regards Viv Dash panel with cluster and some guages, 100usd . ( No clock or Ampmeter as I bought it for those) Motor splash pans for LHD advanced 6, Taken off a 27, may fit other years , 50usd the pair (SOLD) Set of 4 door sill panels from a 27 adv 6 sedan. 20usd the set. 2 Alloy Splash apron kick plates, one front ,one rear. 30usd each. They are like the ones in the below picture, need to get an actual picture. Set of 3 steering centre levers with all the small bits that fit them together, the bakelite horn button bits are toast, and 3 rods were cut in half for shipping. see pics, 150usd the set. (SOLD) Starter pedal mechanism, incomplete. 20 usd Choke knob 50usd. The top one is the actual knob,( it does NOT include the start switch that I have needed and taken) Vanity item ?? from sedan 20usd.

Hi All, I have been buying parts for my 1926 Chrysler G70 and 1928 Model 62 and for many years I've shipped parts to my sister in Canada, so that I can later freight parts I needed over to me. I have these brake parts that are sitting in Canada that are excess to requirements and need to go, if you are interested in them please PM me and if you think my price is too high, then shoot me an offer. Price does not include shipping/postage. The condition of the 2 wheel cylinders is not known and may need work. Sold as is. Regards Viv Rear brake backing plates L+R with brake bands, mechanism and wheel cylinders, as seen in pictures. These came off a series 72 wreck. As far as I can tell these parts also fit series 62, the later 27 series G70(finer 70) and possibly the series 60. The cylinders will not fit early 1926 series B70 and G70, nor will they work on series 50/52 and 58. Asking 200usd plus shipping, both sides included.

Hi All, I have been buying parts for my 1926 Chrysler G70 and 1928 Model 62 and for many years I've shipped parts to my sister in Canada, so that I can later freight parts I needed over to me. I have these brake parts that are sitting in Canada that are excess to requirements and need to go, if you are interested in them please PM me and if you think my price is too high, then shoot me an offer. Price does not include shipping/postage. The condition of the 2 wheel cylinders is not known and may need work. Sold as is. Regards Viv Rear brake backing plates L+R with brake bands, mechanism and wheel cylinders, as seen in pictures. These came off a series 72 wreck. As far as I can tell these parts also fit series 62, the later 27 series G70(finer 70) and possibly the series 60. The cylinders will not fit early 1926 series B70 and G70, nor will they work on series 50/52 and 58. Asking 200usd plus shipping for both sides.

Hi All, I have been buying parts for my 1927 advanced 6 for many years and I've shipped parts to my sister in Canada, so that I can later freight parts I needed over to me. I have some parts that are sitting in Canada that are excess to requirements and need to go, if you are interested in any of these parts please PM me and if you think my price is too high, then shoot me an offer. All prices do not include shipping/postage. Regards Viv Dash panel with cluster and some guages, 100usd . ( No clock or Ampmeter as I bought it for those) Motor splash pans for LHD advanced 6, Taken off a 27, may fit other years , 50usd the pair Set of 4 door sill panels from a 27 adv 6 sedan. 20usd the set. 2 Alloy Splash apron kick plates, one front ,one rear. 30usd each. They are like the ones in the below picture, need to get an actual picture. Set of 3 steering centre levers with all the small bits that fit them together, the bakelite horn button bits are toast, and 3 rods were cut in half for shipping. see pics, 150usd the set. Starter pedal mechanism, incomplete. 20 usd Choke knob 50usd. The top one is the actual knob,( it does NOT include the start switch that I have needed and taken) Vanity item ?? from sedan 20usd.

Hi Leo, I decided to reply to you thru the forum, as this may interest others with model 72. I had a look at the parts book today and on the model 72 they used 2 types of Ignition switch, 2 types of coils , 2 types of distributors and I'm sure 2 different wiring looms and diagrams. The circuit diagram I sent you, has 3 wires plus the armoured cable going to the ignition switch. This type shows an input from the ampmeter(battery) plus an input from the coil, it will also have an output to the gas guage and then an output thru the armoured cable direct to the distributor. The switch you have, has 2 wires plus the armoured cable. The only way that switch can work is with one input from the ammeter and 2 outputs, one feeding to the gas guage and the other output going thru the armoured cable to the coil, NOT to the distributor. It would help if you can show some pictures of your coil, the distributor where the coil wire attaches and also the fedco number off the dash. Look carefully on your ignition switch, it should have markings either in the bakelite or stamped on the side into the metal. I'm sure you will find it says, gas guage, battery and coil. regards Viv.

Correct Taylormade, they were an anti theft item, not to be tampered with or removed. The idea is that if it is altered or removed at any time the authorities can arrest you. It is I believe an offence under US law to remove a VIN tag from a car. Even to respray underneath the vin and then reattach it is a serious offence, with huge fine and even jail time up to 5 years. Tread carefully.

Pictures will help, plus look on the hub nuts/caps, they are normally marked with the size. Also how many spokes are there? I'm looking for 20inch HC4 buffalo wheels with 72 spokes , 48 of the spokes go to the back of the hub and 16 to the front.

RJP, your car is too nice to hotrod it. You have tried for ages on AACAFORUMS with no luck, perhaps try advertising it on bringatrailer.com with a reserve price.

Hi Sagefinds, I agree the triple bar bumper is unusual and you might never find what car it fits. A lot of cars in the mid to late 20's came from the factory without bumpers or could be ordered with bumpers as an extra. The ones you have were probably provided by a company that made aftermarket ones. Most of the Nash pictures I have show cars either with 2 bar bumpers or none at all. Below is a picture of one I downloaded off the nett, I think I may have ones of another car, but cant find it. My 27 Nash Advanced 6 touring has been sitting and waiting while I'm gathering parts. I'm busy finishing a 35 Ford phaeton and the Nash is next in line to be restored, It will be another huge project as a lot of the wood frame was eaten by termites and the car was turned into a truck at some stage. I'm still looking for rear doors and a rear body section, but will make new doors and rear section if I can't find one. The rear section I have at the moment is I think Nash but smaller, possibly from a special six or light six. Below is my car as I found it. Regards Viv.

Under the S is Milwauke, that may help. The double ribs in each bar would date these bumpers around 1928. Nash advanced 6 cars had triple blade bumpers , so maybe Nash

Sad news, condolences to his wife, kids, all his family and the AACA community. One of the best ways to honour his memory, is to continue the Hershey meeting as he would have wished, and call for a minutes silence in his memory. May god be with you all at this time. MHDSRIP.

On the model 50 and 2 model 52's that I restored there were no numbers on the chassis frames. Even the Model G70 that I'm about to start restoring I have found no evidence of a chassis number. I stand to be corrected but the fedco number was the cars serial number, and I do not think had anything to do with the chassis/frame numbering. If I were you I would look for an old model 50 dash that is lying around and use the fedco plate from it. I'm sure there will be one in someones junk pile in the USA. I have a model 50 tourer dash with fedco plate lying in my junk pile, but the cost of shipping may be prohibitive. Have you tried Jay Astheime if he has one for you??

Found this chart some time ago for AC plugs. Not sure if the 32 Plymouth used the same plugs as the 28 Chrysler 52 , but I ran my car for many years with Champion W20 plugs with no issues. I later found out after I sold the car that it should have had W16

Probably the same ones were used on 1927/8 Chrysler 50 and 52 models

The water jacket covers originally were fitted with 1/4 bolts with copper washers to stop the leak. There should be no lock washers on these bolts. Perhaps a good gasket sealer on the threads would be a good idea too.

1927 Chrysler 50. Fedco numbers ran from AC500P to AH254R. AC500R stands for 025001 and AH254R stands for 032549. Your number AC711H stands for 027223.

Damman's book 70 years of Chrysler says the 26 G70 motor and the 1927 Finer 70 used the same motors and all motor numbers started with G******. The parts book also shows all parts for the G series engines were the same.

If there are no leaks and the pedal goes down, then you have a problem with your master cylinder or its supply tank reservoir hole is blocked. The rear brakes will work as they were originally designed , with externally contracting brake bands, but make sure you have soft woven linings and not modern hard linings. Also, I think you are foolish to expect the rear brakes to work properly with modern disc brakes on the front. Those external contracting brakes were not great when new and to expect the rear brakes to be efficient enough to slow the rear of the car as quickly as your front brakes, is to say the least suicidal, especially if the rears get saturated in heavy rain. If you are rodding this car with a V8 and lots of power then change out the rear brakes too, for the safety of not only you and your passengers but for other road users too.

Not Dodge Brothers, maybe Willy's??

I've been looking at my reservoir "T" handle on my series 62, there is no seal remains and I do not think there is even room for a seal on the shaft. The tank had a lot of brake fluid inside it and the pipe to the master cylinder had been removed decades ago. When I unscrewed the T handle completely from the bottom union, nothing came out the bottom until I lifted the handle slightly, then it poured out. I dropped the handle back down and the fluid stopped immediately, even before I screwed it into the bottom union. I am now of the opinion that there is NO seal at the bottom of the T handle, the steel washer and that part with the 3 holes are a sort of one way valve and need nothing else. I stand to be corrected Viv.

If one looks carefully at the washer marked with an arrow in 28 Chryslers post above, it has 3 holes in it. These holes I'm pretty sure worked as some kind of non return valve, so an O ring or similar I don't think will work. I've been thinking about it, my 28 model 52 ran for years without any type of seal but you had to keep releasing that Tee handle regularly to purge the system to get the pedal pressure back. Thinking more about it, it would make sense to have had some kind of leather washer in there that would allow fluid to pass thru those 3 holes when moved one way and then close off the holes when moved the other way, sort of to act as a one way valve. Based on this theory, I think it would be big enough to seal inside the bore, but be of a thickness that would allow it to flex. Hope this makes sense. As to its original thickness and diameter, I too would like to know.

Agree with DFeeney, check the ring gaps before assembling the motor. Push rings, off the piston about half way down the bore and measure the gap. If the gap is wrong it may either eat oil or worse break the rings and damage the bores.

As far as I know the Nash used Delco Remy. My 27 advanced 6 is Delco Remy and I have seen some cars around 1928/9 with those twin ignition caps. Below is a picture of a 29 Nash currently being parted out . Picture courtesy of Nash Car Club of America facebook pages.