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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Yes, they have a matching brown with a slightly darker pattern woven in, but it's from SMS, not LB. I'll get some close-ups and post them tomorrow.
  2. Or fade to the greenish tan the original has become. I'll probably be long gone before anything gets that far.
  3. Well, my wife and I found fabric from LaBaron Bonney that comes very, very close to the original. I'm still struggling with the correct shade of brown now that we discivered the dirty tan is just a faded remnant of the original. I have very good, unbleached examples of the fabric used on the door panels and up above the rear seat. The LB fabric possibly has a little more of a greenish tinge to it than the original, but it's very close. The nap and weave of the fabirc is the same, so we're in good shape there. Try as I might, I can't find a good, unfaded example of seat fabric. Mine is too faded and stained to get much real information out of it. In fact, i was beginning to think that perhaps the seats were a tan shade, but that didn't make much sense with dark door panels. Naturally, the 32 sales literature shows interiors with tan fabric, so who the heck knows at this point? (And Phil Kennedy pointed out to me that the same literature shows a DL with a green floor mat and that clearly isn't correct). Phil also sent me a few shots of some unfaded areas on his original car and, sure enough, there was that brown shade peeking out in a few places. You can just see the brown at the inside edge of the seat. So we are going the dark brown route. And if I find out I'm wrong after dropping 1500 bucks on material, I'm going to wander into the woods behind our house never to be seen again.
  4. Isn't the axle held on by the outer bearing race? The two bearings on the axle are sandwiched between two races and the outer race needs to be pulled out to free the axle. Since this outer race is pressed or driven into the axle housing after the axle is installed, don't you need some sort of puller to get the axle out? I may be wrong here, but since I'm going to have to address this on my 32 dodge DL I'd like to be sure. Maybe you can exert enough force using the brake drum method to get everything free - I hope so! EDIT: I missed the slide hammer reference. That's the direction I was going.
  5. Looking good, Ian. I wish my DL was that far along!
  6. I would keep the car as original as possible. A good, careful cleaning will really improve her looks. I'd replace the wiring only if the original is frayed or crumbling and I'd replace it with the correct cloth covered wire. Your car has wooden floors, so attaching seatbelts may be a problem and they look awful. I'm all for safety, but if you don't plan on major milage I'd leave them off. Turn signals mean adding lights and hurting originality, but that's your call. That car is a real find - you're a lucky individual.
  7. Thanks, Phil, this will really help me when I get to this task. I'm glad you had the patience to figure it out - something I'm decidedly lacking at times.
  8. Not a Dodge, but still... Studebaker : President Sedan in Studebaker | eBay Motors
  9. As I said, to each his own. Althought not original, maroon with black fenders would look great and at least captures the look of the period. Baby blue over sky blue might look okay on a large classic, but not on a DB in my opinion.
  10. I'm sorry, maybe it's just me, but why would anyone spend the kind of money that must have gone into this restoration and go for this paint and interior? To each his own, I guess. Dodge : Other Four Door Classic in Dodge | eBay Motors
  11. Thanks, Phil. This is another example of why it is so important to have an original car we can reference for details like this.
  12. I think I have come up with an innovative way to reproduce the pad and use that prototype for the mold. It may take a week or two, but I'll post pictures if and when I get it done. I plan to use Devcon 94 urethane rubber, as I have in the past, to make the final piece. With Phil's photos and measurements I have all the information I need. I just have to order some inexpensive materials and I'm ready to go.
  13. I may be forced to cave and get the Steele item, but not before I give this a try. Thankfully, the simple shape of the DL pad will make things much easier.
  14. Wow, Phil, you went above and beyiond the call of duty! I was worried you might damage it taking it off. That's about as simple as it gets - a square. A plan with dimensions would be perfect. If you could take an extreme close-up of the pattern with a ruler in the shot it would really help. Also, the thickness. I think I know how to reproduce those fine lines in between the thicker ribs. Once I get an exact size I'll give it a try and post results. You can email me the plan if you want, but if I have the side to side and top to bottom dimensions I can size your photo in Photoshop and work everthing out. Notice it's close, but not the same as the 32 PB.
  15. trini, I'd take your request over to the Dodge Brothers Forum, lots of Dodge Brothers folks to help you there.
  16. Judging from the bag behind it this is a Steele reproduction piece. From that standpoint, he's not really gouging as Steele wants $148.80 for the piece. Either way, it's not a bargin. The sad reality is between the cost of the rubber, the mold-making materials and restoring or remaking the original for the mold, you're going to spend a lot more than that to make one. I enjoy figuring things out, but it doesn't always translate into saving money. If I had a nice CNC mill, I could machine the mold rather easily, but to hire a machinist to do it would cost a fortune. I have made similar pieces before using plexiglass and styrene strips. It didn't cost much, but the time involved was ridiculous. It was fun, so I didn't mind. Things have changed, and there's no going back. When I bought my 32 for $400, I never thought I'd see the day when a beat-up fender for the car would cost twice what I originally paid for it. A gallon of paint that used to be $35.00 is now over a thousand! Any restoration worth its salt these days isn't going to come cheap even if you do most of the work yourself. I don't like it any more than you do, but that's the way it is.
  17. I don't. I fear only someone with an original pad can help us. I don't intend to ask Phil to remove his. Steele lists pads for 1932 Chryslers, Plymouths, and DeSotos, but not for Dodge so it doesn't match any of those.
  18. There you go. If you haven't experienced it it's impossible to explain. Seeing all the work you've done - work I still have to do - I'm sure there were many times when that original infatuation turned a bit darker as you struggled to find a solution to the endless problems that seem to turn up during a restoration. I've already had a few unpleasant shocks and I'm only a month in!
  19. Yes, it was Phil's first car, too. He probably has a much better claim to nostalgic ownership than I do - I only had it for two years and he managed to hold on to it for 46. But, as I've said before, something about this car has always fascinated me and I'm glad it's come back to me after all these years.
  20. That's what I suspected. The 32s are a strange breed.
  21. I don't know about the TV show, but Bogart, as Marlow, drove a 38 Plymouth Deluxe (P6) in the classic "the Big Sleep."
  22. There is enough there to make a correct pattern. The tricky part is getting the thickness of the rubber around the emergency brake area correct. It has to be thin enough to be flexible but thick enough not to tear. Phil will have to chime in and let us know if that matches his DL.
  23. I had a close look at Phil Kennedy's original DL when I went to visit him last month. All the rubber - floormat, pedals, and draftpads had the same unusual ribbed design. I know there is no way I'll ever find - or make - an original floor mat, But I'd like to try and get the draftpads correct. I may have to get Phil to take some close shots of his pads, with measurements, so I can make a pattern on my 3D graphics program and have it printed on a 3D printer. I can use that model to make the molds. Steele has some nice stuff, but none that matches the DL.