Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Success! I finally found a puller that removed the pitman arm I was having so much trouble with. This is the item that did the deed - five bucks at the local rental house. The secret is the bolt set-up that allows you to clamp the puller arms tight to the round top of the pitman arm. The ends of the puller arms were also thin enought to slip into the narrow space between the arm and the frame. No banging needed, just a few quick turns with the socket wrench and it came loose. I also found a very neat trunk that really matches the styling of Daphne and is a perfect fit on the trunk rack. The red pin striping is going to go. Lots of snow on the ground and it's mighty cold out in the garage, but I hope to have the steering box off in the next day or two and complete the stripping of the frame.
  2. I like the electrolysis and the molasses ideas, but the cost of the wood and materials for the tank, plus having to wait until spring (frozen water due to our lovely climate) make those avenues difficult if not impossible. This is a big frame and would need one heck of a big tank. I have a sandblaster, and that's a good possibility, but mine is a smaller unit and it would take a lot of time to do it right. It works great on smaller pieces like the springs and tranny cross mount, but doing the entire frame is a bit daunting. I can get the entire frame and all assorted pieces blasted and powdercoated for $500. When I add up the cost of blasting material, wear and tear on my compressor and paint and primer, plus my time, that seems pretty reasonable, or did before I lost two major clients due to the economy and the medical care crisis. Both just shut down rather than deal with it and I'm currently left hanging. Having an old car to work on is great, as long as you still have a house and a garage, so most of our money is being used to survive, not have fun. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  3. I finally have almost everything stripped from the frame. Still have the steering gear and the battery box to remove. I have the frame on the cart I built for the body so I can move it around in the garage. I sort of resolved the problem of removing the rear passenger side spring bolt as addressed in a previous post. After all else failed, I ground the bolt head off and then tried to drive the shaft of the bolt out of the spring eye. It wouldn't budge, not even with a large sledge. I decided to try the driver side bolt, expecting the worse. First, it losened up much easier than the other side, although I still needed the six foot breaker arm to get it started. Then came the real shock - the bolt started easing out of the mount and came free with almost no effort. Just rotating the bolt with a little side pressure backed it right out. Now I went back to the problem bolt. No amount of banging would losen it up. I was afraid I was going to bend or break the mount if I wan't careful. I examined the problem and realized that there were two rubber washers - one on each side - between the spring eye and the mount. Both were deteriorated - one was actually gone, which is probably the reason it rusted together. I broke out what was left of the other washer and realized that since the width of the spring was narrower than the width of the inside of the mount, I had enough room to cut through the bolt inside the mount with a cutting disk. I carefully cut through the bolt on the frame side, rotating the bolt to give me a clean side and not force the disk too deep into the bracket opening. I cut about a third of the way in, then stopped and rotated. After multiple cuts I was through. I could now swing the spring free since the bolt head was gone, and with a little wiggling, the spring came out. As you can see from the photos, what's left of the bolt is still in the spring eye, and I think the only way to get it out is going to be with a hydraulic press. At least it's off the frame and I can work on it from both sides. Now that I have everything stripped away, the amount of restoration I'm going to have to do has hit home. There are a lot of parts to clean, repair and paint! One step at a time is the only way to do it. I remember having the same feeling once I had my 29 Plymouth U apart, but I eventually got the frame and all components looking like new and this will be the same process. A few of the piles of parts. Most of the suspension, minus the front springs. The front axle needs new kingpins and I plan to replace all bearings and seals, brake cylinders, brake linings and turn the drums. The front springs, transmission cross beam and the driveshaft. Everything here looks almost new under all the grease. I have yet to explore the rear axle, only time will tell what needs to be done. Certainly all new seals at the very least. Money is tight and I hope I'll be able to afford to have the frame blasted and powdercoated. If not, it's a future of lot of elbow grease and a fresh coat of paint.
  4. Sorry everyone, I haven't been ignoring all your helpful suggestions, I've been out of town on business. I tried the C-clamp idea, something I dreamed up myself before your post. All I got was one very badly bent C-clamp. The Spring bolt turns freely so I don't believe it's rusted to anything and there are no apparent threads in the spring perch to help force it out. I had my wife turn the head of the bolt while I exerted all possible force on the other end with a large metal pry bar wedged between the end of the bolt and the frame. It wouldn't budge. Maybe it is rusted to the inner sleeve and that is turning, too. I'm getting to the point where, as jpage suggests, I may just cut off the head off the bolt, cut off the protruding end and try and force the shaft out with a punch and a sledge, cutting off the end along the way for clearance. Everything else (except the pitman arm - I'm waiting for the puller I ordered) came off the frame quite easily, including the front axle U-bolts, but the rear end is giving me nothing but trouble. After soaking the U-Bolts for about a week and then applying heat, I got three nuts off and then promptly snapped the U-bolt on the fourth one. Luckily, I found a place that had the exact size I needed at only ten bucks a pair. They are almost identical with the exception that the nicely flattened tops on the originals are simply round on the replacements. Since I want to drive this car, rather than show it, I'm going with the new Grade 8 replacements for safety and ease of simply painting fresh steel. If someone crawls under the car and wants to complain - more power to them!
  5. I bought a 1932 Dodge tail light stalk from her a few months ago. I've tried to contact here about sun visor hinges since then, but she hasn't answered my emails or phone calls, so I don't know the current status of the business.
  6. Work on the frame continues.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> I'm still waiting for the delivery of my pitman arm puller so I figured to get the rest of the frame apart and get it over to the powdercoating shop. It's 60 degrees and sunny here today, so I assumed this would be a nice relaxing session out in the garage. WRONG! I removed the rear shocks rather easily and then tackled getting the rear springs off. I'd already removed the shackles and was delighted to find them in fine shape. I had soaked the bolt holding the front of the spring to the frame mount in WD-40 several times and expected the nut to come off without a problem. WRONG! It finally came off after I used a six foot breaker bar and lots of muscle. :eek: It was difficult to get a wrench on the nut due to its closeness to the frame, but I finally got one on it and wedged it inside the frame while I muscled the breaker bar. Job done, right? WRONG! Now I had to get the bolt out. It would turn in the hole but would not unscrew or come out in any way. Because the other end is tucked in by the inside of the frame, it's almost impossible to get anything back there to force the bolt out. I got a bar wedged in and put a great deal of force on the end of the bolt while my wife turned the bolt head but the darn thing wouldn't budge. There may be a deteriorated rubber grommet in there holding it on. After a good hour and lots of cursing I still don't have the stubborn thing off. Short of welding something on the bolt head so I can get a good grip on it, I don't know how I'm going to remove it. I decided to come inside and cool off before I do something stupid and cause irreparable damage.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> :mad:<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  7. Thanks Tom. after reading your thread I am truly humbled by the compliments. It's amazing how much cars progressed from 1932 to 1959! My old DL seems almost simple compared to your Buick. But, it's funny, every car seems to come with its own problems. Your story of the pot metal window frames hit home. Many of the parts on the Dodge were not designed to last 80 some years and I'm dealing with that repair/rebuild/re-manufacture business we all go through. I'm afraid my restoration will never meet the standards of your beautiful Buick, but I was glad to see you planned on driving the car, not letting it collect dust in your garage until the next car show. I, too, plan on driving the heck out of Daphne once she's finished. Thanks again for the kind words. RT
  8. No cracks. In the photo, what you are seeing is a layer of grease that I partially scraped away with a screwdriver. The "crack" is a gouge in the grease. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  9. I tried a pickle fork on mine and it didn't budge. They tend to be a bit rough on the steering box if you're not careful. That gear puller might work. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  10. A shot of the wood framework around the back window. Mostly in good shape except for the passenger side "curve" that I'll have to remake. I plan to replace the screws as they are rusty, give it a light sanding, a quick coat of black enamel, and it should be ready to go.
  11. Got the "new" radiator back from the shop Friday. It tested out perfect - no leaks, plenty of flow, all "fins" in good shape. Steve, the radiator guy at Al's Radiator in St. Louis, Missouri, said it took awhile to get some loose rust out, but once he hot tanked it and ran water through it for a bit, everything flushed out perfectly. My Hershey purchase turned out to be a good one.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  12. I just about have the frame stripped down - front and rear axles off<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>, springs removed and various bolt-on pieces loosened and ready to take off. The springs look good and a simple disassembly, blasting and repainting should do. All the shackles - front and rear - are in great shape and will not need to be replaced. Good news as they are unusual and kind of hard to find. You can see the "studs" or whatever they are called are round, nor worn and not pitted. I got front suspension off and ran into a problem. The pitman arm is so close to the frame it's impossible to get a conventional puller in behind the arm to pull it off. The hooks or "grabbers" on my puller won't fit between the arm and the frame. Any suggestions? I was thinking about something like this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/OTC-8150-Conical-Pitman-Arm-Puller-for-Light-Trucks/16481266 or: http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/PA643/PITMAN-ARM-PULLER/ These don't work: http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html I hope I can find a local auto store that has a correct type to rent. Until I get the arm off, I can't take the frame to be power coated.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  13. The Ammco is the tool of choice, but these view ports allow you to center the drums without using the tool. You can open the port and measure the clearance with a feeler gauge. I looked for an Ammco tool when I had my 48 Plymouth, but never found one I could afford. The instruction book for my 29 Plymouth said to use a cutaway brake drum ( a factory part) to adjust the brakes. I assume that my drums with their little view-port was the next step up in brake adjustment, followed by the Ammco tool. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  14. "You might try the electrolytic rust removal method on those drums. Good chance the screws on your adjusting cover plate(s) will just come off after that." Good idea, ply33, I'm going to give that a try.
  15. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>Back fenders in paint. still need to be color sanded and buffed out. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  16. Taking the frame apart this weekend. Brakes looked in reasonable shape. new wheel cylinders are available and will be purchased. The linings will be replaced and I plan to buy new springs. In another thread I asked some questions about the brake drums. I think they will work although a guy at a local auto store told me he thought they looked "thin." Some minor scoring that I think can be "skimmed" out by turning the drums. The drums have an inspection port so you can correctly adjust the brakes. Adjusting early Chrysler Corp. brakes has always been a tough job without special tools. These little inspection ports allow you to see the clearance between the pads and drums all around the drum. Now if I can only get the totally rusted screws that hold the port plate on to come free! I have the feeling I'll have to drill out the flat head screws and re-tap the holes. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  17. We took out all the interior wood from the body in preperation for blasting. The only structural wood in a DL sedan is the floorboards. The wood around the tops of the door and rear window is there for attaching the upholstery. I restored the wood in a 29 Plymouth - it had all wood framing with the sheet metal tacked on to the wood frame. What a nightmare that was! Confirmed that my car is an original DL with black body paint. The DL's body then went off to Coberaa Custom Powdercoating in Aniston, Illinois. First all traces of old paint were removed from the body. this is a Delicate process that has to be done correctly or the body panels can be badly warped. Then the body was put through five cleaning processes to make sure all the grit and dirt was removed from the metal. It was then cleaned of all wax and grease and finally etched in preparation for the powdercoating. That's not water, but a chemical cleaning bath. Then the body was powdercoated with a special paintable primer coating. Now it's ready for a coat of primer sealer, followed by the final coat of black. The other parts of the car have also been blasted and coated. Once I finish disassembling the frame, it will be blasted and powdercoated satin black. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  18. This site has what you may be looking for: http://www.the-blueprints.com/blueprints/cars/ You get a front and side few of the cars in pretty good detail. Hope this helps. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  19. That seems really thin. But like I said, I'm getting old and it's Friday. I'll have to measure mine when I get home, but I think they are thicker than that.
  20. Sorry, I only have the one on my car. If you need shots of the rack or the mounting brackets, just let me know.
  21. Thanks Dodger. Just one question - what the heck does 110 and 115 mean? Is that hundredths of an inch or what? Sorry, it's Friday and I'm getting old.
  22. No disrespect here, I like your model very much, but I don't think you need blueprints for this type of "folk art" modelling. You are not trying to recreate every inch of the car in miniature but, instead, are creating a "sketch" or caricature of the car in three dimensions. Just go online and search for images of the car you want to model and use the photographs to build it in your style.
  23. I assumed that the lines on my 1932 Dodge DL were copper, but when I started the restoration I discovered that they were actually copper-coated steel and had rusted away internally. I have no idea behind the coating - other than a possible rust inhibitor - but steel they were and will need to be totally replaced.
  24. The H.A.M.B might be a possible source, though most of the cars they work on are pretty much trashed before they get them. I'd have to find an idiot who is about to destroy a nice, original DL with very low miles. They are, unfortunately, out there, so I'll give it a try.
  25. What else is new? Apparently they decided to reinvent and then scrap all 32 technology that year!