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Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. I always have my IPod stereo player cranked up when I work on Daphne. And I have my grandfathers comfortable old chair out there, too. As for the libations, I stick to the soft stuff - in my case, alchohol and power tools don't mix too well. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  2. Yes some judicious grinding with my Dremel tool is going to be necessary to get a good ground. Another fun project will be chasing all the threads with a tap - and there are a ton of threaded fittings on this frame. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  3. The total charge for everything - sandblasting, cleaning and powdercoat - was $500. This included a ton of small individual frame parts, some of which you can see hanging above the frame itself. This shop does the sandblasting and powdercoating, so nothing was farmed out. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  4. Last night I went over to the powdercoater's to film the process on my frame.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> First Brandon washed the sandblasted frame with water and then sprayed it with a rust inhibiting solution. Then it was dried for half an hour in the oven at 400 degrees F. Once dry, an electrode was attached to the metal frame supporting the car frame and the power "spraying" device was ready to go. The Lava Black powder was then applied as a h
  5. I'm working on it, Phil, believe me! I'm taking the front axle apart and have come to a screeching halt trying to remove the old kingpins. Which way does the tapered pin that holds the kingpin in go out? ? don't want to start banging on the axle, trying to drive it out the wrong way. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> Does it drive out from this side... Or from this side... Some help from the experts out there, please.<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display
  6. I got my "Floating Power" motor mounts back for Now And Then Auto. They did a nice job. All parts had the old rubber taken off, the metal cleaned and painted and new rubber vulcanized to the metal in a mold that exactly duplicates the original. Take a look at the before and after pictures. front motor mount The "steady rest" that supports the engine under the rear seal area. The redone part is the lower piece in the before pic. The transmission cradle. This had a chunk of the metal broken off. They cut and welded on a new piece for me. The spring damper. The small tr
  7. As far as I know that is the correct curve to the steering arm. There appears to be no damage or kinks to the arm. Without the bend, it wouldn't fit correctly between the pitman arm and the front steering post. I'm getting a new front ball with the rebuild kit, so that is not an issue. The pitman arm repair will be interesting once I see the replacement ball from Then and Now. I agree with Jason - the thought of welding a new ball to the existing shaft worries me.
  8. Tackled the steering arm today. Still snow on the ground, but it was in the forties and felt really pleasant with the sun out. The first job was to get rid of the massive accumulation of dried grease and dirt on the arm. A grinder and a wire brush took care of that in quick order. You can see how thick this stuff was... Before: After: A shot showing the thickness of this gunk. Sticky, filthy and just all around unpleasant. More than a quarter of an inch. It probably kept rust from forming on the parts, so I'm kind of glad it was there for the forty odd years it sat in Phil's gara
  9. I keep hearing good, then bad things about powder coating wire wheels. I asked about it on another thread and got a bunch of differing opinions. Anybody else have any horror stories? I think some problems are caused by poor prep and application. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  10. The work was done by Loop 70 Motor Parts in Columbia on -guess what - the 70 Loop. Ask for Elson, he's a good guy to work with. Every time I'm there the place is filled with car guys, talking old cars and hot rods. Three guys showed up while my wife and I were there this morning and they all helped Elson and I get the motor into my SUV. Boy did I need a pickup! Thanks guys, we couldn't have done it without you! I paid $1600 parts and labor. If the babbitt was bad we would have had to send the bronze-backed bearings out and the cost would have been in the $2500 range for the total rebuil
  11. A three hour drive to Columbia, Missouri<quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate><quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate> to pickup my engine. Rebuilt and ready to go - after I wirebrush the surface rust and give it a coat of paint. I got lucky. Apparently, the motor had been rebuilt sometime recently before I bought the car in 1965 and Phil and I didn't drive it all that much afterwards. Work done: block cleaned and checked Rebore New pistons and rings New bronze valve guides new valve springs new cams
  12. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>PM sent.
  13. Ian, Sorry, I didn't send those - although I sure wish I owned that car! <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  14. Sorry to hear that, but if it doesn't give you any enjoyment then I would sell it, too. A two door sedan is a bit more desirable than a four-door because it's a bit harder to find, but sedans are always going to be on the low end of the price list. If that was a coupe, it would go for 8 grand in a heartbeat, but I think that is probably top end for your car, even though it is a nice original. Mid-Missouri has a lot of car lovers, but most of them are pretty cagey when it comes time to lay the money down. They'll drive a hard bargin. Please try to find someone who will appreciate the fact
  15. Nice job - it looks great, even before the bondo.
  16. Finally, some warm weather! Snow melted, garage and drive clear and I finally found some time to clean and paint parts. Yesterday, I took the springs, front floorboards, front motor mount, rear tranny mount and the battery box supports over to the sandblasters. This is why I usually hire this out - not the greatest job in the world. They did everything in about an hour and a half and I took it all home hoping the temperature would get above 60 so I could paint everything before rust came back. I got the primer on last night as the temps were margial, but okay. I used the heat from
  17. Thanks, a better look than "bare metal." <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  18. I'm cleaning up my Delco-Lovejoy shocks and can find no trace of any paint on them - just lots of grease. Does anyone know if these units were painted (black?) or left bare metal? If bare metal I will probably paint them with "cast iron" paint to replicate the unpainted look and still avoid rust.
  19. I checked the rear axle now that things have warmed up a bit. There is no way the axles can touch. The design has a shaft that connects the gears in the differential that is between the two axles. So now I have to see if the axles would be pushed in too much and actually come in contact with the shaft. I'm taking my springs over to be sandblasted tomorrow along with some other parts - the front engine fixture and the transmission mounting support. I'm also starting on the wheels and have the job of trying to break the beads loose on tires that have been in place for over forty years. Not l
  20. You don't have to pull the hole front end (clip) off. Leave the fenders on and just take the hood and radiator off. Then the engine/tranny comes out as one unit.
  21. I think there's pretty much of a consensus that the drawback to placing the shims outside is that the axle may move in too much and interference may result. The other question is will it move the axle inward enough to cause problems with the brake drum interfering with the backing plate. Until I figure out just what the thickness of the shims needs to be, I won't know if this is going to be a problem or not. I mean, are we talking a few thousandths of an inch or an eighth of an inch? I'm going to attempt to measure the thickness of the bearings clamped together with the bearing cups and th
  22. I ran into the same problem with a 48 Plymouth I had. I finally ended up having to take the entire front clip off. I'm not an expert on 35s, but from you pictures, you might have enough room to work on that plug - looks like there is some working room between the engine and the firewall. If not, you'll have to take off the hood, remove the radiator and grill surround, disconnect the driveshaft and take the motor and transmission out as one unit. On the 48, I removed all the old freeze plugs, then used a power washer through the holes to blast out all the rust and gunk. There was a ton of i
  23. Yes, there is a freeze plug on the back of the block and that is probably what is leaking. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  24. The winter weather is slowing down progress. Although we are up to a balmy 21 degrees today, there isn't much I can do since most of the cleaning and derusting has to be done outside - or the inside of the garage would look like a grease storm just went through - and painting is not going to happen until it warms up. This shot of my garge/workshop says it all - Better news with the springs on the old DL. After I posted shots of the disassembled springs a while ago, several folks from the Dodge Brothers Club thaough they might be too rusted to be safe. Just what I needed, another th
  25. Yes, it's the length of the axle housing area for the bearings. You're shimming to make that distance correct for axle shaft end play. It also states that "the two axle shafts are entirely independent of one another. In order to make this adjustment it is necessary to remove the axle shaft and bearings, including the cup of the inner bearings. The shims may then be removed." The fact that there were no shims in the axle when we drove it, Phil, leads me to believe, since they were as far inward as possible without the shims, that there is no way the axles could touch. One suggestion was to cl
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