Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. I use the same camera as Phil with the 18-200mm zoom. These cameras are good for the point and shoot guys, but they also have the pro features if you want to get a bit more ambitious. As with everything, good photos take a combination of skill, talent and practice. Both Phil and I have made our living at it for many years, so composition and lighting are kind of second nature to us. Once you've taken your shots, getting them off the card and into a workable program (Phil's suggestion of Photoshop Essentials is a good one) is the next step - then the fun begins!
  2. I see it's been a long time since I last posted. A move, construction of a garage, a death in the family and the trip to Detroit to shoot the official Dodge Brothers Club video has made it impossible to work on Daphne. As soon as the garage is finished I should be able to get back on the restoration. Seeing all those running, driving cars at the Centennial Meet was certainly motivating! Work on the garage is going quickly and the job should be finished by the end of the week. Since my wife is now officially retired and I do most of my video work out of the home office, we decided to downsize and move to a smaller house just a block away from my daughter's family. Our three granddaughters can hardly wait for the first ride in Grandpa's "old car." I'll miss my 48 by 24 workshop, but the extension on the garage will give me two 24 by 15 spaces to work in - end to end rather than side by side, but the car is far enough along that I really don't need as much space as before. Here are some shots of the progress on the garage. The foundation poured and ready for construction. The walls going up. Sheeted and ready for shingles and siding. Everything is supposed to be finished this Friday. Then I can put in 30 amp circuits and a 220 line for my compressor. I kept the large 80 gallon compressor and copper lines from the last shop and they will also be going in. At the moment Daphne is jammed into the rear garage with all of her boxes of parts and assorted pieces. I can't wait to set her free.
  3. John, I feel your pain. I packed my DL parts carefully, but all I see is a garage full of boxes! It will be a long haul getting everything sorted. Your fellow moving fool Taylormade.
  4. Ply33 - Those are stock 5:50X18 from Coker. I bought them at Hershey last fall. 32bizcoupe. The transmission is still waiting. I did find a temp guage.
  5. If I had to give one bit of advice to anyone restoring a car - don't move in the middle of the restoration! My wife is retiring this month and we are moving to a smaller home a block away from our daughter, her husband and our three granddaughters. The good news is that we are close to the kids and my wife will finally get a rest after working all these years. I'm already semi-retired and will have more time to work on the car. The bad news is I've had to carefully pack up all the hundreds of parts and will transport the car - the parts I've put together - tomorrow. I've lost my 48X24 shed and am moving the works into a 24X15 garage. OUCH! We are adding another 24 feet to the existing garage, so not all is lost, but I will miss all the wonderful space. I finally have the body back on Daphne after almost a year. The frame is done with all new bearings, new axles, fresh paint and powdercoat, powdercoated wheels and new Firestone tires. it's really exciting to see her looking a bit like a car for a change. Things will be on hold until I get everything unpacked and I shoot the video for the Doge Brothers Centennial Meet. I hope to see lots of you there!
  6. After viewing this video I guess you just reverse the arms to get the orientation you need. This should explain how it works. As I said, it did the job for me.
  7. I did find this - http://www.amazon.com/4579-9-Way-Slide-Hammer-Puller/dp/B0015DMNIS It claims to have internal and external jaws, but I don't see both in the photo. You want one of these with the hooks on the arms facing out, just the opposite of the arms pictured.
  8. I think your rear axle set up is similar to my 32 in that the bearings are on the axle and the races are inside the axle housing. In my case there are back to back bearings on the axle and an inner race about three inches inside the axle housing and an outer race flush with the end of the housing. The outer race came free by putting the brake drum back on after I removed the backing plate and outer axle seal. By putting the hub/brake drum on loosely and giving it a couple of sharp tugs, the outer bearing race came out. I could then pull the axle, with the bearings attached, free. This left the inner race inside the housing. I rented a puller from a local tool rental shop that still has lots of old tools for rent. It was a three claw puller with a slide hammer attached. The jaws faced outwards and could be locked into position. Then a few good slams with the slide hammer and the race came right out. You're going to ruin the inner seal in the process. I just did a search on the net and couldn't find anything like it for sale, not even a picture of one. A rare bird, apparently, but the only tool I could find that worked.
  9. I have some NOS bearings that have been in the package a long time. They are in great condition, shiny, with no rust or corrosion, but they are coated with some sort of cosmoline substance that was obviously meant to protect them. The problem is, the substance has dried to a reddish-brown film that is quite hard. What is the best way to get this off? I was thinking soaking it in acetone or lacquer thinner, letting it dry, then lubing the bearings, but I don't want to damage anything in the process. I know you never "spin dry" bearing with compressed air, so will the thinner remove the film and then dry without gumming up the works? thanks for any advice. RT
  10. Thanks for the heads up. I took plenty of photos, plus you'd have to put the axles on wrong (one is shorter than the other) and I had them well labeled. There is also a notch in the housing for the ring gear that would be in the wrong position if you tried it backwards. And finally, if you did get it on 180 degrees off the back cover would have to be upside down and have the filler pointing up. The 32 must be different than the 33.
  11. more progress on my DL. Got the wheels back from the powdercoater. I'm happy with the color match. It's very close to what I found inside the wheels once the tires were off. They appear slightly more yellow in real life. I took the differential carrier off the rear axle a while ago and cleaned and painted the axle separately. Probably a mistake as I now had to figure out how to clean the unit without messing up the gears - which were now exposed. The unit was very greasy and had a thick buildup of road grime. I got the bright idea to cut a hole in my temporary work table and drop the carrier in. It worked great. A shot after I painted it. The differential is one heavy piece of iron. Since I'm a one man shop I had to figure out how to get it in place on the axle housing and then get a some bolts in to hold it on. I cut the heads off a few bolts and used them a guide pins. Then I cut a fresh gasket. I coated it with sealer and put it in place. The guide pins really helped position the gasket correctly. The differential slid right on with no problems and stayed in place while I bolted everything up tight with those DB bolts. My NOS axles arrived today, so the next step is getting the new bearings on the axle and the races driven into the housing.
  12. I'll chime in here since I make videos for a living. A few years ago I pitched a show called the Fatman and the Convertible and actually had some interest from several networks. What they wanted is some kind of drama - competition, rivalries, outright hate or some combination of all three. The Teutuls started it with Orange County Choppers. What was meant to be a simple show about creating custom choppers turned into an unexpected hit when audiences became fascinated with the family dynamics - mainly Paul and Junior's constant arguing - and the trend was started. My idea was a show about me restoring a 1950 Dodge Wayfarer convertible while I tried to lose eighty pounds. I thought the 'fatman" angle might provide enough "drama" although I was mainly interested in a show about car restoration in a home garage. At the end of each show, I would weigh in and we'd see the results. This was a few years before "Biggest Looser." They liked the losing weight angle, but wanted more angst, more tension than that plot device could provide. They suggested that I could get a group of "friends" who would come over to my garage each episode to deride my work and humiliate me, thus providing "motivation" for my continued restoration and weight loss. The "friends" would be a bunch of local numbskulls the producers would dig up through auditions - good old boy types with outrageous mannerisms and off-beat quirks that would provide "entertainment" for what the producers figured was the main audience - people who weren't really interested in car restoration. No matter that they weren't actually my friends or neighbors or even people I would normally associate with. No mater that they (the producers) would write up situations and problems that didn't actually exist to give my "friends" fodder for the show since the reality of a guy working on his car in his garage was "boring as hell.". They said in an hour show, they would allow no more than 15 minutes of actual restoration, but wanted the rest to be interplay among the characters: gags, pranks, verbal exchanges and generally anything to make me look like an overweight nerd fighting for his dignity. They also wanted some kind of deadline to finish the car - some show or auction that would force a tight time frame to pressure me to finish the restoration. Even more drama. At that point, I gathered up my proposal, left the room and made a nice two hour documentary for NOVA on PBS.
  13. Problem solved (I hope) as I just purchased a NOS set of axles. I'll post pics when they arrive. Very excited as I soon should have one less problem to deal with.
  14. Nice looking car. I think you'll find parts will show up with a little digging. I'd hit the Hupmobile site here, I'm sure they will provide help and assistance.
  15. Thanks for the head's up, Gary. I just got in touch with Nelson and he had a right and a left NOS axle for my car. I bought them and a NOS throwout bearing. Problem solved. And, Jay, thanks for your offer! Thanks also to keiser31 for the lead. RT
  16. I don't think they will work. Could you measure the length when you get a chance?
  17. Do you need any special tools to install them?
  18. Looking for left and right axle shafts for a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL. The following will fit: Left side = 30.25" Right side = 32.25" Chrysler '30-31 8 Chrysler '31-32 CM6 after #6520501; C16 same shaft both sides. DeSoto '30-32 8 Cyl. Dodge 30-32 DC8, DG8, DD6, DH6, DL6 Thanks for any help.
  19. Thanks John, too bad they were so far gone. Anyone with any ideas on repairing what I've got? The one deep groove actually cuts across the surface of the outer seal. Is there any SAFE way to fill these grooves and then turn them down? I assume welding on an axle is a tricky process, but if there was a way to fill the grooves with a weld bead and then turn them down without warping or damaging the axle, I would think it would work. Would a small surface weld like that compromise the shaft?
  20. I didn't heat the axle - the coloration is, I believe, staining from old oil combined with surface rust. It cleans off with a little work. I don't know if they had cutting wheels in the fifties, but it's what the cuts look like they were made with. keiser31, I sent you a PM. Thanks for the comments and advice.
  21. I spent today taking the old tapered roller bearings off the rear axle. I had to split them to get them off and was very careful not to cut into the axle itself. Apparently the last person who performed this task wasn't as careful. After I got the bearings off and cleaned up the axles I discovered some shallow grooves that had obviously been cut into the axle some time in the past. I'm sure the axle is heat treated and I've always heard that cutting into the surface of a heat treated part can substantially weaken it. The deepest groove is perhaps 1/16 of an inch or less. Do I have anything to worry about or are these axles still useable? The axles are off a 1932 Dodge DL. Thanks for any advice. <!-- attachments -->
  22. I spent today taking the old tapered roller bearings off the rear axle. I had to split them to get them off and was very careful not to cut into the axle itself. Apparently the last person who performed this task wasn't as careful. After I got the bearings off and cleaned up the axles I discovered some shallow grooves that had obviously been cut into the axle some time in the past. I'm sure the axle is heat treated and I've always heard that cutting into the surface of a heat treated part can substantially weaken it. The deepest groove is perhaps 1/16 of an inch or less. Do I have anything to worry about or are these axles still useable? Thanks for any advice.
  23. Phil, That is really interesting. More detective work - those are obviously factory rivets and your car is a very original specimen. I was really taken aback when I saw my mounts were bolted on. The rivets make more sense - it is really a pain to reach inside the frame through the access holes and tighten the bolts.. Under normal circumstances, I would figure that someone drilled out the rivets on my frame for some reason and then replaced them with bolts. However, the bolts holding on the brackets were all original Dodge Brothers bolts with the logo clearly stamped on the bolt head. Also, if the brackets were ever off the frame, it was a very long time ago based on the dirt and grime that was consistent in this area of the frame. Nothing had been touched or messed with for a period long before we owned the car. There was a slight impression of the bolt heads worn into the surface of the bracket - another indication they had been there a long time. I would have to say that I believe your guess is probably correct - that the early frames may have had the brackets bolted on and then the factory changed the method sometime during the production of the DL. I would love to hear from other DL owners as to how their brackets are mounted.