Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. On a quest for missing parts for my 1932 Dodge DL sedan. I need a tail light, tail light stalk, license plate bracket, engine splash aprons and a rear seat foot rest. Okay, I can hear the laughing from here. I'm also searching for the Lost Dutchman mine - and probably have a better chance of finding it before I find the parts I need. On a diffent note, I also am looking for the brackets that hold the lap robe rope and the two tassels in the backseat. I got a good look at the originals in Phil Kennedy's 32 Sedan when I visted him a few weeks ago. To my surprise, they appeared identical to the ones in my recently sold 48 Plymouth. I find it amazing that Chrysler used those same brackets for at least 16 years. At least it will make them easier to find - there are a lot more P15-D24 parts cars floating around out there than the 1932 variety. Let me know if by some staggering stroke of good luck you have any of these parts lying around the garage/workshop/barn/ lean-to/shed/junkpile/carport/backyard/basement/attic/Arizona desert. The sooner I find them, the sooner I can begin posting my incredibly detailed, spiritually uplifting, and totally astonishing restoration thread on the old DL. This thread will undoubtedly provide more information about what not to do during a restoration than any other restoration thread you've ever read. Thanks, RT
  2. You're absolutely correct Sweepspear, I'm talking about the wrong show. Old age does that. When Graveyard Carz actually talks about Mopar restoration and shows the work on the cars it's great, but the really fake arguments and set up situations waste so much time it's rather painful to watch. Thankfully, my DVR allows me to skip past all the garbage and focus on the cars.
  3. I guess I'm just getting tired of all the fake drama that passes as reality. If you read some of the comments over on the H.A.M.B. forum from local Dallas car enthusiasts you realize they don't own that shop, just rent it out for the show. And some of the prices they pay - and sell- the cars for are just insane. They don't really have to worry about "losing" money on the cars they sell since they get paid more than enough for just appearing on the show. The accident with their new Mustang was depressing, but all the comments about not having insurance or not reporting it because their rates might go up must give their customers pause. Are they saying they don't have customer's cars insured when they are working on them in the shop? They're going to take a $35,000 dollar loss because their insurance might go up? Of course, the insurance companies might take a closer look after seeing the scene of the guy almost setting himself on fire and then tossing a flaming glass jar of gasoline out onto the driveway.
  4. How do you put the cars you own down on the footer of your profile (along the bottom of your post)? Lots of folks have it, but I can't find where on my profile page I put this information. Thanks. EDIT Hmmmm, I just posted this and it magically appeared in the post. I guess I found the answer.
  5. I agree with Phil, write this up in detail - and take some pictures if you can.
  6. According to Phil's copy of Dykes, you take the main shaft out through the rear, not the front of the unit. This may be your problem as you said you were trying to take it out through the front. He's right, you will have the Freewheeling unit to deal with first and Dyke's doesn't address that.
  7. Are you sure there are no snap rings holding the shaft or bearings in place? You certainly don't want to be pounding on a transmission with a sledge, wood block or not. I always find that when something doesn't come apart it's something I've forgotten to remove. Check everything and then think it through - what's holding it on? But then, that's what you're asking, so i guess I wan't much help.
  8. I'd like to see these parts go to someone who needs them. They go on Ebay next week, so make me an offer if you see something you like.
  9. Thanks keiser3. Phil, the former owner, didn't find any shims when he took it apart so the situation is similar to yours. I'll compare the total thickness of the bearing package like Terry suggested and see how the old and the new match up and take it from there. RT
  10. I just read the instruction book and looked at the cutaway drawing. It says the the shims to adjust the end play of the axle are located "between the cup of the inner axle shaft bearing and the shoulder in the end of the axle housing. So, Terry, you're saying to measure the entire bearing assembly length, then compare it to the depth of the opening in the end of the axle from the outer flange to the step where the inner race seats. Then add shims to allow for end play of .0025 to .005. That makes sense as long as I can get that fine a measurement of the depth. An easier solution than trying to reassemble it over and over. I'm not clear how that gasket between the backing plate and the outer flange comes into play. Post those pictures, I'd like to see them. Tony, I must be missing something. I don't see any shims between the outer backing plate and axle housing in the cutaway drawing in the book. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  11. I recently bought a 32 Dodge DL. The rear axles had been removed in 1980 and never replaced due to the lack of the proper inner seals. Everything was taken out: the axles, inner and outer seals, inner and outer races. The tapered roller bearings were left on the axle. The bearings will have to be replaced and I now have the correct inner seals. To get the car ready for transport we temporarily put things back together, but didn't put in the inner seals, as I knew I would have to replace in inner bearing race with a new one. I need some help on the correct proceedure to get things back apart and then put this together correctly with new bearings. First, there were no metal shims behind the inner race. They may have been lost, but I understand they should be in there to get the correct axle end play - so how do I handle that? Second, what is the best tool to pull the axle and the outer race out of the housing without damaging anything? (I have a hub puller and am familiar with that process, but haven't pulled an axle.) What is the best tool to pull the inner race out? There isn't much of a lip to catch or attach any puller to, and it's pretty deep inside there. Do the roller bearings have to be pressed on the axle by a machine shop? How do I get the old ones off? Once I have everything out and cleaned up, I have a bearing race driver set that should work to put the inner race back in, but am I going to have to assemble everything, check the end play, and then pull it all apart and install the correct shims - which I guess I'll have to make? - and then put it together again to get the correct end play? Any help from anyone who has done this before would be wonderful. Thanks, RT
  12. Looking for a set of kingpins for my 1932 Dodge DL. Apparently DD,DC,DH,DG,DL will all fit. Help me get her back on the road for the national meet in Michigan next year.
  13. Yeah, my 29 Plymouth had straight bore cylinders. Maybe I caught a break.
  14. Are the 32 DL wheel cylinders stepped or straight bore? I'm going to have White Post Restorations resleeve mine and the cost is much higher for the stepped cylinders - which, of course, must mean mine are stepped. Haven't had the car shipped yet, so I can't look for myself. Just trying to ge a handle on what this restoration is going to cost (gasp!).
  15. I have a rebuilt Dodge carb for a 241 Hemi. it's been sitting for a while but looks to be in good shape. $50.00 plus shipping. Contact Richard Taylor taylormd@madisontelco.com
  16. I have some 49 -52 Dodge parts for sale. Full set of fenders for a 1950 dodge Wayfarer Sedan. Fronts are very good with a few pinholes and one minor dent. Rears have rust in the front for the wheelwell. FREE. Pick them up in Central Illinois. Forget the color - they were originally black. 1950 Dodge Wayfarer Sedan trunk lid. Excellent condition. A little surface rust only. $30.00. I'll ship it, but it won't be cheap. Better for pickup. Two nice Wayfarer fender badges. Nice shape with all prongs on back. Need replating for a show car. $50.00 plus shipping. Horn ring. NOS with original box. $40.00 plus shipping Dash Radio Surround. NOS, very nice chrome, not perfect but very close. Excellent for a driver or a great candidate for a re-chrome for a show car. Perfect Dodge emblem. $100.00 plus shipping. One piece taillights. Need replating. $15.00 for the pair plus shipping. Lower taillight pieces and front grill badge. $20.00 for the lot plus shipping. Steering column with shifing gear and floor pad. $30.00 plus shipping. Convertible Kit - Complete front cowl, both doors, rear deck convertible top recess and complete top mechanism. Make your 49-52 Dodge wayfarer Business Coupe into a convertible. Comes with two extra doors from a Wayfarer sedan and the X-member from the convertible frame. Everthing will fit in a pickup truck. $900.00 Contact Richard Taylor taylormd@madisontelco.com
  17. I have some 49 -52 Dodge parts for sale. Full set of fenders for a 1950 dodge Wayfarer Sedan. Fronts are very good with a few pinholes and one minor dent. Rears have rust in the front for the wheelwell. FREE. Pick them up in Central Illinois. Forget the color - they were originally black. 1950 Dodge Wayfarer Sedan trunk lid. Excellent condition. A little surface rust only. $30.00. I'll ship it, but it won't be cheap. Better for pickup. Two nice Wayfarer fender badges. Nice shape with all prongs on back. Need replating for a show car. $50.00 plus shipping. Horn ring. NOS with original box. $40.00 plus shipping Dash Radio Surround. NOS, very nice chrome, not perfect but very close. Excellent for a driver or a great candidate for a re-chrome for a show car. Perfect Dodge emblem. $100.00 plus shipping. One piece taillights. Need replating. $15.00 for the pair plus shipping. Lower taillight pieces and front grill badge. $20.00 for the lot plus shipping. Steering column with shifing gear and floor pad. $30.00 plus shipping. Convertible Kit - Complete front cowl, both doors, rear deck convertible top recess and complete top mechanism. Make your 49-52 Dodge wayfarer Business Coupe into a convertible. Comes with two extra doors from a Wayfarer sedan and the X-member from the convertible frame. Everthing will fit in a pickup truck. $900.00 Contact Richard Taylor taylormd@madisontelco.com
  18. I just sold my 48 P-15 and have some nice parts I collected over the years for sale. The first is a NOS Tailight housing in the original box. For a sedan - does not fit the coupe. This has to be the nicest piece I have ever seen. The original chrome is perfect. It's so good I almost hate to see it used! The pictures tell the story. Asking $225.00 plus shipping. Two NOS Genuine MoPar upper control arm kits. From the factory, not aftermarket. Complete and in the original boxes. $90.00 for the pair plus shipping. Four interior handles - three door and one window, Excellent chrome and plastic. No pits except for some light scuffing on the handle in the bottom picture. $25 each for the top three, $15 for the bottom picture plus shipping. NOS Steering Knuckle Support. $25.00 plus shipping A pair of NOS headlight rims. Excellent. $60.00 for the pair plus shipping. Clutch Pivot rebuilding kit. These parts are almost always worn out. Brand new replacements. $30.00 plus shipping. Voltage Regulator - still in the original wrapping. $30.00 plus shipping. I have a few other parts. Contact me for infomation. Richard Taylor taylormd@madisontelco.com
  19. I just sold my 48 P-15 and have some nice parts I collected over the years for sale. The first is a NOS Stoplight housing in the original box. For a sedan - does not fit the coupe. This has to be the nicest piece I have ever seen. The original chrome is perfect. It's so good I almost hate to see it used! The pictures tell the story. Asking $225.00 plus shipping. Two NOS Genuine MoPar upper control arm kits. From the factory, not aftermarket. Complete and in the original boxes. $90.00 for the pair plus shipping. Four interior handles - three door and one window, Excellent chrome and plastic. No pits except for some light scuffing on the handle in the bottom picture. $25 each for the top three, $15 for the bottom picture plus shipping. NOS Steering Knuckle Support. $25.00 plus shipping A pair of NOS headlight rims. Excellent. $60.00 for the pair plus shipping. Voltage Regulator - still in the original wrapping. $30.00 plus shipping. I have a few other parts. Contact me for infomation. Richard Taylor taylormd@madisontelco.com
  20. Taken on Spring day in Syracuse, New York, 1965. That's me standing in front of my "new" 1932 Dodge DL sedan. My first car. I just bought it back from the Fratenity brother I sold it to 45 years ago.
  21. DWR46's experience is what i've been hearing about. I, too, live in a rural area. I hope, if they want a confirmation of the serial number, that I can get an officer to come out to my place and sign the paperwork. Maybe, like PP, I'll get lucky and they'll just send me my title. They did recently pass a new law in Illinois that allows you to drive an antique car as many miles as you want from April through September if you pay an additional $45 for your plates. No more restrictions to just club events and shows if you're willing to cough up the extra dough.
  22. I just bought back the first car I ever owned, a 1932 Dodge sedan - yes the actual car, back in my hands after 45 years. I live in Illinois and have been hearing horror stories about registering a pre-1948 car in this state. I never had problems in the past, but that was before a change that was apparently made in 2009. Now peple are complaining about having to bring the car to inspection stations to verify numbers and of the Liiniois Department of Revenue sending out letters demanding taxes on their "idea" of what the vehicle is "actually" worth after you have registered the car and supposedly paid all your fees. They then revoke your license and make you pay all over again for plates and fees after you get the car bonded. Has anyone registered their antique/classic vehicle in the state of Illinois recently, and have you had any problems? My Dodge is arriving from Connecticut with a clear title and a bill of sale next month, and I'm hoping getting a title won't be some sort of nightmare. Thanks in advance for any information on this subject. RT
  23. I haven't seen the car in 45 years. It's being shipped to me next month. I thought I remembered the wheels being welded, but 45 years is a long time and I may be mistaken.
  24. Has anyone ever powder coated a set of wire wheels? I'm trying to decide on paint or powder coat for the (welded) wire wheels on my 1932 Dodge DL. I was wondering if the powder coat could get into all the nooks and crannies that a wire wheel would have. I've often heard that sometimes it's hard to get complete coverage in objects with deep recesses and odd angles. The car will be a driver, not a show car, so I'm looking for looks and durability. Thanks for any advice or suggestions. RT<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  25. Has anyone ever powder coated a set of wire wheels? I'm trying to decide on paint or powder coat for the (welded) wire wheels on my 1932 Dodge DL. I was wondering if the powder coat could get into all the nooks and crannies that a wire wheel would have. I've often heard that sometimes it's hard to get complete coverage in objects with deep recesses and odd angles. The car will be a driver, not a show car, so I'm looking for looks and durability. Thanks for any advice or suggestions. RT