Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Yes, it is amazing. But, I discovered it's also relative. As I was watching Ed work with my jaw on the floor, he mentioned he could never learn to operate the camera I was using to shoot the process. When I tried to explain why I was using a certain lens and a follow-focus shot I wanted to do and he just laughed and said it was way beyond him. Most of us can do something well, but it's just nice to see someone else do something we could never imagine.
  2. Just to follow up, I had no problems getting my Illinois title. They did send the paperwork back because I hadn't signed the form for unfettered summer driving. I signed it and sent everything back in and got my title about two months later.
  3. I don't know, Phil. It's a guy thing. I don't need no stinking directions. Well, maybe I do. I need to remember the manual, it's a very detailed little booklet.
  4. I figured it might have something to do with the steering or handling. Thanks, Phil.
  5. As I was disassembling my 32 DL for restoration I noticed something odd - at least to me - about the front springs. At the front of the frame, where the spring eyes attach to the frame, there are two different mounting systems on my car. The driver side, with some sort of snubber attachement. Sorry about all the grease, but you get the idea. And the passenger side with no attachemt. Is this correct, or have I lost something along the way?
  6. While Ed further massaged the fenders, I took off the back bumper - we removed the front before work on the fenders - and the luggage rack. I then removed the back fenders - Ed will work on them off the car. The driver side fender had been removed or replaced at some point. I could tell by the replacement bolts and the discovery of more modern fender welt between the fender and body. This fender was damaged when Dave Taylor, on of my fraternity brothers, backed the Dodge out of the frat house driveway and into a parked car. We lost the taillight with that mishap and pushed the fender in. After seeing what Ed has done to the front fenders, this should be a cakewalk. There is rust damage - major holes - around the tail light stalk mount. Also, the rusted area where the fender contacted the body may have to be replaced. We'll know better after the fender is blasted and we find out how deep the rust is. The passenger side is in better shape - just a slight crease near the back. The rusted area may have to be replaced on this one. too. The only body rust I could find was this small section in the passenger side wheel well. It's an easy fix - just a flat replacement section we'll TIG in. I forgot to show you this in the previous post. Ed has these 20s era fender tools for beading and other repairs. Very cool. We made some interesting discoveries along the way. The car was definitely painted black. But it's not the original paint job. We found sanding marks and other clues that this was a repaint - done sometime before I bought the car in 1965. Another, even more fascinating discovery involved the front fenders. Ed decided he'd need to take off the driver side fender to work the area along the frame. The rear of the fender is actually under the frame, but we figured we could just lift the front of the body slightly and slide the sucker out. That was when we discovered that the front fenders are riveted to the frame! There is one large screw-head bolt that apparently was used to line up the fender, then three rivets around that bolt and more rivets at the back of the fender. So the frame is coming off before we can resume work on the front fenders. This begs the question of how the fenders were painted. I can't see the factory riveting a freshly painted fender to the frame. So what was the order? Paint, rivet? Rivet, paint? Painting the fenders after they had been riveted to the frame seems like a stretch. Anway. we'll probably turn down some carriage blots to match the rivet diameter. The next step is for Ed to finish the fenders. By the time I make the next trip a week from today, all four fenders will be finished and the body will be loosened from the frame, ready to lift of and allow us get to work on the rusted area below the doors. The car looks a little like its been vandalized at the moment, but we are making good progress. More later.
  7. A huge day yesterday. I got up at 6 AM and made the 2 1/2 hour drive to Thomas Restorations and Fabrications in central Missouri. A nice, warm, sunny day. Arrived at 9 to find Ed Thomas and Daphne waiting for me on the lift. This was my first chance to get a good look at her underside. Lots of surface rust and more than enough grease to lube six cars, but everything looked very solid and intact. The frame appeared straight and the rust was surface only. We removed the gas tank and managed to get it off without damaging the two straps that hold it to the frame. The smell of varnish inside was overpowering. We took it outside and shook it - a mountain of red rust dest spewed from the filler. Although the outside metal of the tank looked solid, with that amount of rust inside, I fear some holes will appear once I give the tank the treatment. I took the tank home with me and plan to fill it with molasses to get the rust out. More on that later. I also removed two small side pieces by the windshield that I learned are supposed to be woodgrained. My grain guy has been waiting for them as he wants to do all the parts in one shot to keep the color accurate and even. With the busy work done, we tackled the front fenders. Well, Ed tackled them and I watched - and videotaped the process for a documentary I'm making on the restoration. As you probably remember from previous posts, they were in bad shape. I had smashed one in 1966 when I owned the car. We discovered lots of bondo from that repair. PO Phil Kennedy completed the carnage when he encountered the back of a truck after he bought the car. The amount of damage was something I was honestly worried couldn't be fixed correctly. Ed said he'd spent the last week just looking at the damage, trying to figure out the best way to get started. He says you just can't start banging away at the metal because if you make a mistake it does more harm than the original accident. With that, he pulled out a large hydraulic ram and began forcing the metal on the driver side fender back into shape. After spending a few minutes pushing out the major dent, he switched to the passenger side. He figured the damage was less severe on that side and once he had it back in shape, he could use the curves as a pattern for the drivers side. Amazingly - at least to me - he had the passenger fender pushed out and hammered into shape in about 20 minutes! He then made templates to transfer to the other fender. He then resumed work on the driver side fender. We had to remove the radiator and shell to get access to damage that occured along area where the fender met the frame. Ed then had to remove the thick coat of 50s era undercoating on the underside of the fender in order to work the metal. A soft torch and the heat made it easy to scrape the coating off. An hour later the drivers fender was totally roughed into shape. I really couldn't believe it. We did find some rust at the bottom of the fender above the frame. it's going to have to be replaced, as are two small sections along the front lip of both feners where the metal ripped away from the wire former underneath. Both fenders were starting to look pretty good at this point. All the fine work is next. Ed will remove all the paint and work both fenders with hammer and dolly. He says I shouldn't need any filler when he's finished.
  8. Apparently the guy who bought mine was more into flash than function, opting for the dual sidemounts and shunning the vacuum-assisted clutch. Average salary in 1932 was around 5 dollars a day based on a five day work week.
  9. The Plymouths of the same period had a similar window arrangement. Chrysler seemed to love weird and complicated engineering, despite the Depression. Imagine how complex and expensive it was to design and manufacture that window mechanism. Same goes for the vacuum clutch and Floating Power.
  10. Yes, they have a matching brown with a slightly darker pattern woven in, but it's from SMS, not LB. I'll get some close-ups and post them tomorrow.
  11. Or fade to the greenish tan the original has become. I'll probably be long gone before anything gets that far.
  12. Well, my wife and I found fabric from LaBaron Bonney that comes very, very close to the original. I'm still struggling with the correct shade of brown now that we discivered the dirty tan is just a faded remnant of the original. I have very good, unbleached examples of the fabric used on the door panels and up above the rear seat. The LB fabric possibly has a little more of a greenish tinge to it than the original, but it's very close. The nap and weave of the fabirc is the same, so we're in good shape there. Try as I might, I can't find a good, unfaded example of seat fabric. Mine is too faded and stained to get much real information out of it. In fact, i was beginning to think that perhaps the seats were a tan shade, but that didn't make much sense with dark door panels. Naturally, the 32 sales literature shows interiors with tan fabric, so who the heck knows at this point? (And Phil Kennedy pointed out to me that the same literature shows a DL with a green floor mat and that clearly isn't correct). Phil also sent me a few shots of some unfaded areas on his original car and, sure enough, there was that brown shade peeking out in a few places. You can just see the brown at the inside edge of the seat. So we are going the dark brown route. And if I find out I'm wrong after dropping 1500 bucks on material, I'm going to wander into the woods behind our house never to be seen again.
  13. Isn't the axle held on by the outer bearing race? The two bearings on the axle are sandwiched between two races and the outer race needs to be pulled out to free the axle. Since this outer race is pressed or driven into the axle housing after the axle is installed, don't you need some sort of puller to get the axle out? I may be wrong here, but since I'm going to have to address this on my 32 dodge DL I'd like to be sure. Maybe you can exert enough force using the brake drum method to get everything free - I hope so! EDIT: I missed the slide hammer reference. That's the direction I was going.
  14. Looking good, Ian. I wish my DL was that far along!
  15. I would keep the car as original as possible. A good, careful cleaning will really improve her looks. I'd replace the wiring only if the original is frayed or crumbling and I'd replace it with the correct cloth covered wire. Your car has wooden floors, so attaching seatbelts may be a problem and they look awful. I'm all for safety, but if you don't plan on major milage I'd leave them off. Turn signals mean adding lights and hurting originality, but that's your call. That car is a real find - you're a lucky individual.
  16. Thanks, Phil, this will really help me when I get to this task. I'm glad you had the patience to figure it out - something I'm decidedly lacking at times.
  17. Not a Dodge, but still... Studebaker : President Sedan in Studebaker | eBay Motors
  18. As I said, to each his own. Althought not original, maroon with black fenders would look great and at least captures the look of the period. Baby blue over sky blue might look okay on a large classic, but not on a DB in my opinion.
  19. I'm sorry, maybe it's just me, but why would anyone spend the kind of money that must have gone into this restoration and go for this paint and interior? To each his own, I guess. Dodge : Other Four Door Classic in Dodge | eBay Motors
  20. Thanks, Phil. This is another example of why it is so important to have an original car we can reference for details like this.
  21. I think I have come up with an innovative way to reproduce the pad and use that prototype for the mold. It may take a week or two, but I'll post pictures if and when I get it done. I plan to use Devcon 94 urethane rubber, as I have in the past, to make the final piece. With Phil's photos and measurements I have all the information I need. I just have to order some inexpensive materials and I'm ready to go.
  22. I may be forced to cave and get the Steele item, but not before I give this a try. Thankfully, the simple shape of the DL pad will make things much easier.
  23. Wow, Phil, you went above and beyiond the call of duty! I was worried you might damage it taking it off. That's about as simple as it gets - a square. A plan with dimensions would be perfect. If you could take an extreme close-up of the pattern with a ruler in the shot it would really help. Also, the thickness. I think I know how to reproduce those fine lines in between the thicker ribs. Once I get an exact size I'll give it a try and post results. You can email me the plan if you want, but if I have the side to side and top to bottom dimensions I can size your photo in Photoshop and work everthing out. Notice it's close, but not the same as the 32 PB.
  24. trini, I'd take your request over to the Dodge Brothers Forum, lots of Dodge Brothers folks to help you there.