Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. Wow, looking over your pictures I see another problem that's going to hurt the value of your car even more. Something didn't look right with the front area - the radiator shell seems way too far forward. Comparing your car with photos of other similar cars, I think someone shortened the running boards and moved the front fenders back to try to compensated for the radically shorter wheelbase. It looks like the sidemounts would now interfere with the doors if you tried to fully open them. What this modification did to the fender supports one can only guess. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  2. Kevin, What you are really selling is the body and maybe the fenders (they don't look that bad in the photos). Unfortunately, this car has been butchered some time in it's past as evidenced by the badly altered frame modifications that have shortened the wheelbase and shoved the front wheels too far back into the fenders. As mentioned before, to correctly restore this car, someone is going to have to find another 32 Chrysler of the same year and appropriate all it's running gear. There are lots of folks on this forum who have started with less and ended up with beautiful cars, but to put a value on your vehicle they have to take in the cost to buy yours, probable shipping costs, the price of another car and probable shipping costs and then the cost of a restoration. If they gave you five grand - which is absolutely as high as I would ever go, and I would have to see the car in person before I paid that much - they still would be out at least 8 to 10 grand, providing they found a good, cheap "parts" car, before they could even start the restoration. As a footnote, I've restored wooden framed cars and it's a real job, even when a lot of the wood is still good. If you can find someone that enjoys the search - and they are out there - and wants a desirable roadster, you may get five, even a bit more. I certainly would want to see the car restored, but I fear this is ideal hot rod bait and that's where the car will eventually go. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  3. The back seat is full almost to the roof with boxes I suspect contain parts for the car. I could also see period books and manuals back there. I hope they get reasonable with the price and someone can save this car. I'm in the same boat with my 32 Dodge (sedan with sidemounts). Motor is currently being rebuilt and paint work is commencing. So many things I need and so little money!
  4. Looks terrific! I was over at Country Classic Cars outside of Staunton, Illinois this weekend. I walk their yard every few months just to check their inventory, since they are only a few miles from my house. In an open shed at the back of the lot was a 31 Olds very much like yours, right down to the side mounts - at first I thought it was a 32, it sure looks like yours. It even had a trunk on the rack in back. It was a very solid car with the exception of the running boards - no rubber and a few rust holes. The fenders were undented and it looked like the grill shell and the headlights had been re-chromed. The paint was gone, replaced by mild surface rust and the interior was no longer with us - just the seat springs. All the wood seemed pretty good with the exception of the floorboards. I would take a closer look at the body sills before I thought about buying it. Anyway, a good candidate for restoration, but they wanted $9950.00 which seemed about six to seven grand too much. A nice car, but a sedan and one that needed everything. They did say that it ran and drove nice - it better for that price.
  5. That was done by my friend Phil Kennedy from a photo of his car. The colors were added in Photoshop. The bracket should be three inches long from edge to edge.
  6. I took my radiator of my 1932 Dodge DL in Friday to be cleaned and checked out, and we discovered an important piece was missing! It's a bracket on top of the radiator tank. I suspect this may have gone missing when the ice hit the hood, but who knows at this point. Does anyone out there have an old radiator or part of one that has this piece? It's the one in GREEN in the picture below, kindly supplied by Phil Kennedy. It's soldered to the top of the tank. I could also use the RED piece. I have a nice new set of stainless hinge pins (blue) so I don't need those. I can probably make one, but it's a bit tricky as this sets the height of the hood relative to the radiator shell and everything has to be just right to fit on the tank. Any help would be gratefully appreciated!
  7. I took my radiator of my 1932 Dodge DL in Friday to be cleaned and checked out, and we discovered an important piece was missing! It's a bracket on top of the radiator tank. I suspect this may have gone missing when the ice hit the hood, but who knows at this point. Does anyone out there have an old radiator or part of one that has this piece? It's the one in GREEN in the picture below, kindly supplied by Phil Kennedy. It's soldered to the top of the tank. I could also use the RED piece. I have a nice new set of stainless hinge pins (blue) so I don't need those. I can probably make one, but it's a bit tricky as this sets the height of the hood relative to the radiator shell and everything has to be just right to fit on the tank. Any help would be gratefully appreciated!
  8. I took my radiator in Friday to be cleaned and checked out, and we discovered an important piece was missing! It's a bracket on top of the radiator tank. I suspect this may have gone missing when the ice hit the hood, but who knows at this point. Does anyone out there have an old radiator or part of one that has this piece? It's the one in GREEN in the picture below, kindly supplied by Phil Kennedy. I could also use the RED piece. I have a nice new set of stainless hinge pins (blue) so I don't need those. I can probably make one, but it's a bit tricky as this sets the height of the hood relative to the radiator shell and everything has to be just right to fit on the tank. Any help would be gratefully appreciated!
  9. I got my water-pump back from the Flying Dutchman. It looks great! The $95 estimate went out the window when they had to find a new impeller - mine was rusted way to nothing. But they called and checked and the final price of $150 wasn't too bad. Cleaned, lubricated, new impeller, new shaft and modern packing seal - who could ask for more? BEFORE: AFTER: They even sent me a NOS gasket - and two Tootsieroll Pops.
  10. This morning I took the fenders, gas tank cover, hood and running board shields over to Crin Dima at Undercover Upholstery and Paint. I can't tell you what a relief it is to finally get the fenders into paint! Crin also had my interior parts painted base color and ready for woodgraining. I'll have coverage when he does the rolling of the wood patterns. So, it looks like everything but the body will be painted shiny black within the next two weeks!
  11. Lots to report on. Headed out to Ed's after work to pickup my fenders. He was still working on them when I got there, just getting them ready for primer. He says they were about the worse set of rear fenders he's ever worked on. We probably replaced about 40 percent of the metal on both fenders. There was lots of old body work, some done with files and lead, indicating it had been done years before I owned the car in the sixties. Ed brush painted areas where spraying wouldn't reach - around the rolled fender bead and the double-walled areas where the running boards attach. Then he sprayed everything with Epoxy primer. After spraying the fenders - no pictures, my camera is too important to be done in by overspray - Ed tackled the radiator shell. This had been damaged in the ice fall I mentioned earlier. Since this is a chrome piece, there was no room for error. Lots of tapping, banging, massaging, measuring and more tapping got things back to close to normal. We found the shell had been mashed about a half inch out of shape and badly dented. Not only did the metal have to end up perfectly smooth for plating, we also had to make sure the shell was symmetrical so the hood would fit correctly. Once Ed got the shape correct using a contour gauge to check everything, he worked the metal with small hammers and picks to smooth things out. Finally, he used a roller tool to get out an tiny imperfections. The Patent date on the roller was 1921! The finished product was smooth as silk and ready for plating. There were a few small file marks visible in the plating, but they will go when the plating is taken off at the chrome shop. Next we went to work on the trim piece that covers the gas tank at the rear of the frame. I say "we", but Ed did all the work and I took pictures and sometimes helped him hold the piece in position. The biggest problem was the buildup of grease oil and undercoat. Lots of scraping and disk sanding to get to the bare metal. This was a small dent and it is going to be painted, so we were finished in about twenty minutes. By this time, the fenders were dry, so I loaded everything into my car and drove home with the accompanying odor of epoxy primer.
  12. Phil Kennedy checked on his original car and found the same thing - no hanger.
  13. It was Midas - it's stamped on the muffler. I, too, suspect it has something to do with the exhaust, but I sure can't figure out what.
  14. Ouch! Another example of "what were they thinking?" or, maybe, "this car was not designed to last over 80 years." Were these original equipment on your car?
  15. The distributor is at the engine re-builders at the moment. I'll check for you next time I'm there. It is a tiny little thing.
  16. That is the exact pedal car I had as a child - right down to the color. I have home movies of me receiving it as a Christmas present in 1948. Good luck with the restoration. If all else fails, they make Chinese reproductions at a fairly low price - I got mine for $139.00. You might be able to use the running gear and windshield from that. It comes as the "Torpedo" body, so I am going to have to fill the three portholes in the side of the body to make it match the less expensive model that you have and I had. I wish I could have found an original that I could have afforded. Nice find!
  17. Back at Loop 70 it was time to take out the crankshaft. The 32 Dodge was the last year for babbitt bearings. The four main bearings are removable bronze-backed with a babbitt surface, sort of an insert bearing on a grand scale. The main caps were a bear to get off as they are attached with studs in the block and very difficult to pull straight off. If they get cocked at all when you're removing them, they'll bind against the threaded stud. It was a royal pain getting them off! Once exposed the main crank journals looked as good as the rod journals. The babbitt inserts also looked very good, but since we decided to grind the crank, they will get new babbitt also. Loop 70 doesn't pour babbitt, so the rods and bronze inserts will be sent to Harkin Machine Shop in Watertown, South Dakota. They will pour new babbitt in the rods and finish the inside diameter to the specs Loop 70 will send them once they grind the crank. Harkin will also pour new babbit in the bronze inserts. This will be done oversize and then Loop 70 will line bore the mains in place in the block to match the newly ground crank main journals. Harkin charges $65 per rod and $55 per main. We plan to get new pistons from Egge, new valves and a new timing chain and gear. My final chore was the tedious task of removing the valves, springs and lifters. Nothing exciting there. I used a typical L-head valve spring tool and fished the keepers out with a magnet. Everything came out with no problem except for one valve that had to have its head filed to remove a bit of mushrooming. The area was pretty clean, without the gunk I expected, and that made things a lot easier. With the valves out, I removed the camshaft, which looks very good. With that, the motor was totally disassembled and ready for cleaning and machine work. The folks at Loop 70 were great and there was a constant influx of customers having work done there - guys with model As, thirty era Chevys, Mopar and others, all ready to talk cars. It was a fun day.
  18. I arrived at Ed's and was delighted to see my passenger side front fender primed and ready to go. He then showed me progress on the rear fenders, which we originally thought would need little work. WRONG! They were almost as big a mess as the fronts. Lots of rustout where the fender met the body. Mucho cutting and replacing sections of metal, all carefully shaped to fit. Ed had also sandblasted the lower sections of the body and we got our first look at the rust damage in that area. As usual, the blasting revealed all the hidden secrets the paint had been hiding. The good new was, that despite the rust holes in the rear fenders, the wheelwells themselves didn't need any metal replacement around the top - just a few small flat sections along the bottom. The lower driver's side turned out to be very solid - only one small section that will be easy to patch and a few pinholes that will weld up with no problem. Ed blasted the inside and everything looked good there, too. He will make sure all the rust is blasted out after the repair is done and then use a wand sprayer to coat the entire inside of this section with epoxy primer. This should make things good for the next eighty years. The passenger side was much worse. The entire lower section - inside and out - will have to be fabricated and used to replace the rust carnage. It will then get the same primer treatment. The sills and door bottoms on both sides look great. more good news. There were a few soft spots at the very bottom back of the body, but nothing major and patch panels will be easy to fabricate. The cowl and firewall look brand new - no corrosion at all. Very good news. I can't wait to get everything back home so I can work on the frame and get the body and fenders over to the painter. By the way, does anyone know what this rubber mount/pad/damper is? It's a rubber piece bolted to the frame X-member, but nothing was attached to it and I can't figure out what it's supposed to do. Phil, crawl under your DL and let me know! By now it was almost two, so I headed back to Loop 70 to work some more on the motor.
  19. This week I headed over to Loop 70 Auto to work on the motor. Ed and I had dropped it off on my last visit. The shop is about four miles from Ed's place, so I could do a two-for-one day. The guys at Loop 70 had graciously suggested that I could save some money by disassembling the motor by myself - in their shop and under their supervision. Hard to refuse that! They had the motor on a stand and ready for me when I arrived. My first job was to remove the head studs. One of the things that really worked for me was that the shop obviously had all the correct tools for disassembly - stuff that would have cost me a fortune to buy or rent. All the studs but one came out easily. There's always one. It snapped before I even put any real pressure on it, so I suspect it was already damaged. They told me not to worry, they'd put the block on their drill press and get the broken stud (snapped below the level of the deck) out with no problem. If I'd done it at home, God knows how I'd have ever gotten it out! I removed the distributor and the oil pump. It turns out that both Phil and I had taken good care of the lubrication chores on Daphne. The entire motor - inside and out - was coated with a film of oil. It was everywhere! I wore rubber gloves and still ended up an oily mess at the end of the day. Next, I flipped over the motor and removed the oil pan, getting my first look at the innards. Check out the copper oil lines. Not my favorite engineering method of delivering oil, but they were in good shape and the guys said if I was careful and didn't twist or crush them during removal, I'd be fine. Thanks to the coating of oil, the fasteners came off easily using two wrenches and both lines came free with no damage. It was kind of like loosening a huge brake line. The oil pickup and screen were very clean. Phil had drained the oil and cleaned up the oil pan at some time in the recent past, so there was no crud or debris coating the bottom. That was a welcome sight - thanks, Phil! As I mentioned in a previous thread, there was some cylinder bore wear and a slight ridge at the top of the bore. It was slight enough that the guys recommended that I not bother with a ridge reamer and just pop the pistons out. I carefully removed the rod caps one at a time, then tapped each piston and rod out of the bore through the top. I used a thin metal rod on the bottom of the piston to tap on. This proved to be a two man job as there was danger of the rod getting caught on the cam or the piston falling out of the black and hitting the floor. I held the piston in the bore as one of the guys tapped and kept the rod straight and away from the crank and the cam. Despite the ridge, it took very little tapping to get each piston and rod out. At this point we could examine the babbitt rod bearings and the rod journals on the crank. Everyone was amazed! They were in very good condition. Some measuring revealed that the motor had been rebuilt at some time in the past. The rod journals had been turned and were slightly under the original specs. The guys told me that if I intended to use the car for parades and Sunday drives, they would use the rods as they were. They were in that good shape. They said there was usually checking and stress cracks in babbitt this old, but mine looked almost perfect. However - and there is always a however in car restoration - when I told them I intended to drive Daphne to Michigan for the 100th Anniversary Meet, the room went silent. Finally, I was told, "Well, they're good, but maybe not that good." We decided that discretion was the better part of valor and chose to rebabbitt the rods and turn the crank. At this point it was about noon and I headed over to Ed's to see how the metal work was coming.
  20. Thanks West. As usual, it goes from fun to frustration, but I wouldn't have it any other way. I've read many of the other detailed restoration threads on the site, and I always learn something new. I hope my thread helps a few fellow restorers out there.
  21. Boy, this makes me glad I'm going with blackwalls on my restoration. It was that way it was when I first bought the car 45 years ago and now that I found her again, she's getting the original treatment. I have to say, though, that those wide whites do look good on the big classics.
  22. Or, as Phil Kennedy reminded me, 1931 - as my car is a very early one and was probably built in 1931, not 1932.
  23. For those who might be interested, I have a thread over on the Dodge and Dodge Brothers section that documents the ongoing restoration of my 32 Dodge. You can find it here: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/ressurection-daphne-1932-dl-348459.html#post1151916 Sorry, I'm just too lazy to post it on both forum sites. Richard
  24. If you remove all the paint with remover and the dash is back to it's original condition, a thin coat of epoxy primer and then your topcoat - if sprayed correctly - should not fill in the engraved metal. I'm sure the old factory enamel was put on thicker then today's paints. Of course six coats of base and five of clear might cause a problem. If you do use basecoat/clearcoat, fill in the engravings before you clear.
  25. Wow, great looking car! I'm a 32 guy, but I'm sure the 33 experts will chime in before long. I'm amazed this wasn't hot rodded.