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Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. I'm having three parts made for my 32 DL Sedan - The battery box, the rear tailpipe hanger (the one with the H-shaped rubber connector) and the tool box (the V-shaped metal box that sits inside the X-member of the frame.) All three are being made to the exact specifications of the original parts. If anyone is interested in these parts, I can have one made for you. The more my guy makes, the cheaper the part will be. As he says, the first one is the expensive one as he has to make patterns and figure out how to manufacture the part. If anyone is interested, let me know. Once I have a numbe
  2. One small correction - on page two I state that "all four shocks are the same." This is not technically correct. All four shocks are the same internally, but there is a left and a right casting for the main body of the shock. They are not interchangeable from side to side. I've revised the page to indicate this. And, yes, Scotts_DG8, there will be a part two soon.
  3. AACA friendly or not, it looks good, Binger. I discovered that once I had on a coat of primer, the surface of the shocks looks pretty good. As you said, they retain the "cast" look and turned out much smoother than I expected. I notice your shocks have that screw or relief valve bolt on the back of the shock. Mine don't have that feature, which surprises me as the Dodge was a pricier car than the Chevy. Anyway, I have four new ones from the rebuild kit if you need them, just to say thanks for directing me to the Filling Station.
  4. These old restorations with the brown fenders and tan body are really dated. I can remember when that was the hot combo, but these days it's like looking at a pair of flowered bell bottoms .
  5. The rebuild kit from The Filling Station arrived. The kit does all four shocks. It looks like everything will fit my shocks. The seals are rubber impregnated cork. They are nicely cut and fit the shaft tightly. The kit also comes with cork gaskets for the end covers... ...and new thick-headed screws for the covers. They also carry new shock links that match the size on my front shocks. The original is on top in the photo below. I ordered two as the holes on my originals are oblong from use. Finally, the kit comes with four rubber mounts for the shock arms, plus the pins an
  6. I ordered a rebuild kit from The Filling Station after a suggestion from Binger, a fellow forum member who replied in the General Discussion section. The kit does all four shocks. I talked to them over the phone and they graciously measured the seals and other items for me. It looks like everything will fit my shocks. The seals are rubber impregnated cork. They are nicely cut and fit the shaft tightly. The kit also comes with cork gaskets for the end covers... ...and new, correct thick-headed screws for the covers. They also carry new shock links that match the size on my fr
  7. The bargain thing was my lame attempt at a joke. I just bought a nice set of quality brake hoses for my 32 Dodge at a good price. What I was really complaining about is the sudden inability to refine my search on EBay Motors. It allows you - or USED to allow you - to type in the range of years you wanted to view. Now, when I do that, it won't refine the search and I get every car for sale, not just the old ones I've always enjoyed looking at. I've used this feature for years and it suddenly stopped working last nigh and remains broken this morning. I've tried every advanced search option
  8. Is it just me or has the search function in EBay Motors gone off the rails? I always have it set up to view cars from 1900 to 1942, but tonight it suddenly gives me 62000 sales of modern cars no matter what I type into the search function. Just another reason to stop looking for "bargains" I guess.
  9. I ordered a rebuild kit from The Filling Station. It does all four shocks. I talked to them over the phone and they graciously measured the seals and other items for me. It looks like everything will fit my shocks. The kit also comes with rubber mounts for the shock levers. They also carry new shock links that match the size on my front shocks and I ordered two as the holes on my originals are oblong from use. I also ordered four Speedi-Sleeves for the worn shafts. If all goes well, looks like this will solve my shock rebuilding project.
  10. Looks like those take a one inch shaft - mine is .875.
  11. Thanks Binger, from what I can see they might work. From my limited research, the 1930-1932 Chevy used the 1200 Series shocks, while my Dodge uses the 1500 Series. From pictures, they look identical, but it's hard to tell if they are the same or not. I'll call The Filling Station tomorrow and see what they say. Thanks for the lead.
  12. Success! I also posted this on the Dodge Brothers Forum and got help from Phil Kennedy, Spinneyhill and Bill Engle. I used Bill's method of picking out the seal and then using heat and an inner bearing race puller to get the cap off. The only downsize is you have to destroy the existing seal to get the cap off, so I don't really know what the original looked like. It was rubber and some sort of felt-like material, but there wasn't enough left to determine the actual construction. I can see the problem with the modern 8702 seal, as recommended by Bill Engle - its outer metal construc
  13. Success! I got the little sucker off thanks to Phil, Spinneyhill and Bill Engle. I used Bill's method of picking out the seal and then using heat and a puller to get the cap off. The only downsize is you have to destroy the existing seal to get the cap off, so I don't really know what the original looked like. It was rubber and some sort of felt-like material, but there wasn't enough left to determine the actual construction. I can see the problem with the modern 8702 seal - its outer metal construction makes it a bit too thick to fit inside the dome cover. If you look at the area on the
  14. The 32 Dodge DL uses an entirely different setup. It looks like this: It uses springs rather than rubber.
  15. I made some spring bumpers for a 29 Plymouth I restored years ago and it worked pretty well. They still looked new 30 years later. They make a primer that bonds the rubber to metal and I had to make a rather intricate mold to get everything to work, but it can be done. I'm not sure how it would work in applications where a lot of stress is involved, like the "Floating Power" motor mounts on my 32 dodge DL. Tom Hanniford of Then and Now Auto remanufactured mine and did an excellent job. He vulcanizes the rubber to the metal parts under high heat and pressure. I would have spent almost as
  16. Phil and Spinneyhill, This really helps. I have the Skinned Knuckles article -the actual magazine copies - but they say to cut the "metal ring" to remove the seal, which appears to be a different setup than on mine. It looks like Bill Engle's solution is the way to go, although I wonder if a less thick seal would work and alleviate the need to mill the shock housing. As I said before, my machinist abilities are not all that great.
  17. Thanks, Ian. I couldn't find a website for them, just an address and phone number. I would prefer to email them if possible, as I can send pix and other information. Anyone have an email address for them?
  18. Thanks Ron, I, too, Googled and found them. They look the same, but their measurements are confusing. The outside diameter on my covers is 1.625. In their catalog they first give an outside diameter of 1.750, then give a outside diameter (at the bottom) of 1.625, so I'm totally confused. I sent them an email and we'll see where that goes. 25 bucks each is a lot better than the $165 to $250 each to rebuild the shock. I spent some time wrapping the cover with a rubber sheet and trying to remove it with a big pair of pliers, but it wouldn't budge. I'm afraid if I went with metal on metal wit
  19. Apparently, no one has performed this task. I'll let everyone know if I manage to get them off without destroying the part.
  20. I thought about that, but I worry I might fry the old seal and not be able to ID it to get a replacement. People rebuild these things, so there has to be a solution. I doubt Apple Hydraulics would let me in on their methods.
  21. Did you order them or were you able to get them locally?
  22. I have disassembled my Delco-Lovejoy shocks off my 1932 Dodge Brothers DL. Actually, a very easy job - up until now. My problem is how do I remove the metal cap that covers the shaft arm seal? You can see the metal dome that covers and protects the seal in the following photographs. Is there a way to get the metal dome off the shock body without destroying it? Any real world experience would be greatly appreciated. The shaft is a bit pitted. The arrows show where the seal contacts the shaft. I was thinking a Speedi-Sleeve might be the solution here.
  23. I have disassembled my Delco-Lovejoy shocks off my 1932 Dodge Brothers DL. Actually, a very easy job - up until now. My problem is how do I remove the metal cap that covers the shaft arm seal? You can see the metal dome that covers and protects the seal in the following photographs. Is there a way to get the metal dome off the shock body without destroying it? Any real world experience would be greatly appreciated. The shaft is a bit pitted. The arrows show where the seal contacts the shaft. I was thinking a Speedi-Sleeve might be the solution here.
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