Taylormade

Well, as usual, one step forward, two steps back. I finally got the transmission back together with new bearings and a replacement pinion shaft and I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Then I go and try and put on the free wheeling unit. Let me preface this by saying that what I know about free wheeling units would fit in a thimble - a very small thimble. Inside the free wheeling case is a huge lump of metal with a shaft sticking out of the back end end and an opening in the front that takes the splined mainshaft of the transmission. This is the lump after I partially disassembled it. The snap ring and the gear have been removed to see what's inside. That's also the bearing that the shaft rides on in the case. Here is the inside of the lump. That center section is supposed to (I think) rotate independently of the outer housing with the shaft. Mine was jammed solid. Everything is actually deeper in the lump so that the free wheeling clutch gear can be pushed into the lump and engage those gears inside the lump. (See the picture below). I was very lucky to have just gotten an extra DL transmission from fellow DB Club member Larry Yirga, so I took the free wheeling lump out of that transmission. It's from a much later car - and, naturally, it's different! But, and it's a big but, it still seems to fit on my transmission with no problem. Of course, I have no way of telling if this lump is in good working condition. The rest of the transmission looked to be in good shape, but the donor car had been sitting for years, so who knows? So, at the moment, I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with my lump and if I can fix it and, if not, hoping against hope that once I get everything into the frame that all is well with the replacement lump. The thought of taking everything out and taking the trans apart again is most disquieting. Since suicide is not an option, I continue on... By the way, if you can help Larry out, he is looking for a transmission for his 1932 Dodge DK - the eight cylinder model is different that the DL.

You may have extraordinary wood working skills, but there is a lot more to rebuilding a wood wheel than cutting out new spokes. You and your family will be riding on these things at over 40 mph. Better make sure they are tight, round and made of the correct wood. I'm no expert, but I watched the old guy who did my 29 Plymouth wheels years ago and he pressed the new spokes in with a contraption that would have taken five times as long to build as cutting out the spokes.

I know I have at least one. I've checked most of my boxes with no luck. Looks like I'll have to get up in the garage attic. It's supposed to be a little cooler this week, so I'll have a look. Sorry this is taking so long.

I finally got all my new bearings. The bearing shop in Decatur, Illinois had to get them out of their warehouse in Tennessee, so it took a few days. As I said before, these are apparently still being used and are no problem to obtain. The new bearings on top and the old below. In case you need these for a DL transmission, here are the numbers: Pinion shaft bearing - 6207ZZNR (NSK bearing) Mainshaft bearing - 208KDDG (Timken bearing) Free wheeling bearing - 206KDDG (Timken bearing) I'm not sure why they got me a NSK for the pinion shaft, but it looks identical to the Timkens. Everything fit like a glove using the original spacers. The pinion shaft bearing is an interference fit on the shaft. Once it's seated, shims are used to locate it in the correct position and a snap ring holds everything in place. With the pinion shaft installed, you can see the recessed groove where the outer snap ring on the bearing fits into the case. The bearing retainer also has a recessed groove and shims that locate the bearing correctly in the case. That last shot was taken before I cleaned up the shims. Once the retainer is in place, the bearing is locked into the correct position. Specifications for maximum end play in the second speed helical gear is .002 according to the Owners Manual. After I had everything together, I measured mine at .001, so I should be good to go. Until I took my transmission apart, I had no idea the bearings were in such poor shape. All new bearings will provide little peace of mind down the road.

I'm not sure who quoted you that price, but I have had several of similar size done and never paid more than $300, and that was for a really bad one.

That looks great, Ken. We're you able to use the file I sent you or did the shop do the work?

Spent Labor Day with fellow Dodge Brothers Club member Larry Yirga working on the transmission of his very nice 1932 DK sedan. We got a few problems ironed out, but discovered that the replacement countershaft we were putting in had a reverse helix from the one in the tranny. Same problem I had trying to find a correct pinion shaft. So Larry will be driving with a chipped tooth in the countershaft until he can find a replacement. We discovered that the DK and DL transmissions are very much alike, but not the same. The DK has a larger reverse gear and a wider area for it in the case. I was also very lucky as Larry loaned me his splash pans for his DL, three parts I have been searching for since I bought the car. I'm heading to Columbia, Missouri Friday to drop them off at master metal worker Ed Thomas' shop where he will make me a repo set. After seeing Ed's work on my car's body and fenders the tool box and battery support, I'm sure these will turn out just like the originals. Larry was very generous to trust me with these hard to find parts, and I'm sure glad there are folks like him in the hobby willing to help others. I still need two more bearings for the transmission, and I'm supposed to pick up them tomorrow. Then I can finish assembling the unit. Working on Larry's helped me out on that score. Here is a shot of the original bearing on the left and the new one on the right. Some differences in the inner and out races, but the dimensions (OD and ID) are exactly the same as the original. The spacing of the clip ring is also the same. As soon as I have all three bearings, I'll post the modern numbers for those who might need them. I also cleaned up the emergency brake parts and have them ready for paint. There are more small parts on the transmission than almost any other area on the car. I'm glad I took lots of reference pictures. Grinding along on the small jobs, but I'm getting close to finishing the frame. It always seems to take at least twice as long as I originally figure to get things done.

That is the oversized pistons specs. Once you open up the motor you will know the condition of the bores and if they have been bored out previously. And I'm sure you meant crankshaft when you mentioned rod inserts on your Farmall rebuild. You mentioned you already bought the parts from Meyers, how did you know what size you needed if the motor hasn't been opened up? Your car does not have shell bearing inserts like you find on later motors. I know mine were bronze backed with Babbitt, a metal alloy, poured into them and then line bored to the correct size. Technically they are a form of removable insert, but not interchangeable like more modern insert bearings. I defer to owners of Dodges of your vintage, but I think your motor has this type of bearings.

Why not find an engine rebuilding shop? Most I've delt with charge in that neighborhood. They will have the specialized equipment and the experience to do the job correctly. If he has to send the head out for Magnafluxing, he may not have the cylinder boring equipment or other devices necessary to do the job. If you are paying him to take the motor apart, send everything to a rebuilding shop to get the machining done and then to put it back together, you are wasting your money. I actually took my DL motor apart at the rebuilder's shop, then they hot tanked the block, sonic cleaned it, cleaned the oil passages, magnafluxed the block, head, crank and rods. They did the machining, replaced the pistons, rings, valves, valve springs and valve guides after we examined everything and decided what needed replacing. I was lucky, the Babbitt bearings were in almost perfect shape. They installed all new gaskets, a new timing chain and then reassembled the motor and resurfaced my flywheel. Total cost of parts and labor was $1600.00.

It's really too small as the forum application reduces the photo to an acceptable size. Your 4128x3096 image has become a 834X625 image thanks to the forum restrictions. I would need the original file straight out of the camera to make this work. That is, by the way, one beautiful sign!

Like this?

I didn't realize this sign would be so popular. If I missed someone, let me know - it's hard to keep track!

No, I learned that lesson long ago. I just spun it by hand and listened to it grind. The bearing on the pinion shaft that Scott sent me actually seems pretty smooth. I'll have the bearing guy check it when I pick up my new bearings.

Look what arrived on my doorstep courtesy of the USPS. Sent Monday, arrived today. I measured everything and it's exactly the same as the broken shaft that came out of Daphne. Thanks again, Scott, you were a lifesaver! (That's not a nick on the new gear at the bottom - it's a drop of oil reflecting the light of the flash.) Meanwhile, I'm putting the transmission back together. I have the countershaft and reverse idler gear assembled - love the green assembly lube. This part of the job went very smoothly. It was a bit tricky as there are small parts and shims at both ends of the countershaft and you have to try and hold it all together while you're putting this very heavy part in place. I discovered the best way to get it in the case was to set the case on end and slide the countershaft in vertically. That way I only had to hold the shims and bearing on the bottom of the shaft as I slid it in. At the bottom (front) of the shaft are two shims and a flat bronze bearing that key into two pegs on the countershaft. All three rotate with the shaft. The top ( back) of the countershaft takes this square spacer with nibs that key onto the gear teeth and another flat bronze bushing. The square piece turns with the shaft and the bushing floats between the shaft and the side of the case. Although the countershaft shows little sign of wear, these smaller parts did show a bit of the 60 thousand odd miles they have traveled. There was some light scoring that looks worse in the photos than it actually is. I can't find a source for these parts so I elected to put them back in. Everything spins very smoothly with absolutely no noise, so I think it will be alright. All three bearings in the unit were, however, in poor shape. As I posted earlier, these can still be found at your local bearing dealer, so all new ones will be going in. I'm really glad I decided to take the transmission apart. The three bad roller bearings were a disaster waiting to happen. The front bearing on the pinion shaft sounded like a lawnmower engine after I cleaned it up and spun it. It wouldn't have lasted another thousand miles.

If I missed anyone, let me know.

You're the first to have a problem, Ian. I'll send you a new file and we'll see how that one works.

Although my car, a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL (six) did not have them, I have seen exhaust nuts that are brass used on the studs to bolt up the manifold. I bought a kit for my 1948 Plymouth P-15, which has a similar engine, from Vintage Power Wagons and they were brass. What is the purpose of the brass nuts? Does it have something to do with expansion rates so the nuts don't crack the manifold when it heats up and expands? Is it worth it to find brass nuts and use them? On a similar note, anyone have any experience with having your manifold coated? I've seen hi-temp powdercoating, hi-temp paint and porcelain advertised. Any experiences, good or bad, with any of these? Thanks.

Everyone, I'm sending the file out via Hightail, a service that can quickly send large files. It will appear in your email with downloading instructions. Let me know if you have any problems.

Sorry, I've been tied up rebuilding the transmission on my 32 DL. I'll look this afternoon.

No need to apologize. It's just that this forum is dedicated to the preservation of original cars. Disk brakes are considered by many to be hot rodding your car. I don't want to start that old argument again as there is no solution to it. With your motor and gearing, the original brakes will be fine. You're not going to be going much over fifty in original form.

Looks like I found one. Thanks for looking.

Finished sign. PM me with your email address and I'll send you the file.

I'm making a big file. You could have it any size up to about four feet across. We have a local guy that prints them up. He makes banners and signs. There's a shop like that in almost any town. You can give him the file and he'll print it to size.

Ken, I've straighten the sign out and corrected the perspective. I'm going to clean up the letters and have this printed so I can hang it up in my garage. At the moment the resolution is too low to get a clean image. Once I do the clean-up I'd be happy to send the file to anyone who wants to use it. It still needs a lot of work.

Crazy, maybe, foolhardy for sure.