Taylormade

Thanks, that's good news.

Could anyone tell me the size of the brake and clutch pedal on a 1931 or 1932 Chrysler? Steele sells rubber pads that match the pattern of my 1932 Dodge Brothers DL The pads are 3-13/16" by 2-5/16" outside dimensions, but they don';t list the interior dimension. My pedals are 3-1/2 by 2, so the Steele items may be a bit too large. If anyone has these numbers any help is greatly appreciated.

That was my thinking also. As I said, the clutch disk was relined and the pressure plate resurfaced after checking the springs, so the "balance" was probably changed anyway. Well, if I drive the car and it vibrates like a son of a gun, then we'll know we're wrong. Sometimes I think the owners manual is designed for one thing - to cause the owner excessive worry.

The clutch pressure plate and disk were removed from my 1932 Dodge Brothers DL (six) several years ago. The disk was relined and the pressure plate resurfaced. I put everything back in a few weeks ago and, naturally, while reading the owner's manual today I discovered the following - "CAUTION: before removing the the clutch, mark the clutch cover and the flywheel to insure reinstalling the clutch in the same relative position to maintain the original balance." Needless to say, this wasn't done. I've put redone clutches in several 40s Mopars over the years and never ran into a problem with this. Have I just screwed myself? if so, is there any remedy for the problem I've created? I guess i have a one in six chance of being correct since there a six mounting bolts. Any advice or experience is welcome. Thanks!

Different strokes for different folks. To me it's hideous.

From the quarter window that looks like a commercial car with a coach-built body as keiser31 points out.

That's the one pictured in my Owners manual, with the weird filler/vent thing. Looks like Phil's got messed with, too.

That's the master cylinder that was on the car when I bought it in 1965 - unless Phil changed it after I sold it to him. I've never asked him about that despite our many conversations. My owner's manual does show some sort of weird filler cap thingy, so I guess it must have been changed at some point in the car's history. Although I'm trying my best to keep the car original, things like the vacuum clutch mechanism had been taken off before I bought the car. Same for the huge, box-like air cleaner. Since I want to drive my car before I croak, some things are just going to have to remain as they were when I first owned Daphne.

Some progress over the last few days. Relined emergency brake and hardware installed. Top of the transmission (shift gate levers and seals) rebuilt and installed. Resleeved master cylinder hooked up. Rebuilt starter installed. I know the stainless cover isn't stock, but I like it and it's staying. And finally, the lubrication tube for the throwout bearing. My grease fitting had been torn off long ago and part of the braided line went with it. Luckily, fellow DB Club member Larry Yirga had a spare and I traded some of my new braided line for the fitting. Thanks again, Larry, and I'll deliver the line to you at Hershey. (That one bolt is temporary until I find the original DB bolt.) I'm hoping to have the driveshaft painted and in before I leave for PA.

No, and it's driving me nuts. It must be in a mislabeled box. I'll keep looking.

We used Airbnb.com and got a great place to stay for 1/4 the price of a motel. Just got it yesterday, as this year's trip to Hershey was a last minute decision.

The cork liner in my U-joints turned out to be a very easy fix. I dug out the old cork and could see that it was actually a cork strip, not a circular gasket as I had originally thought. All three steel cups that I have had cork with a small piece missing. I had originally thought it was damage to the gasket, but I saw the same thing on all three cups, so it just was a gap in the cork strip. Here is the cup and the old cork I managed to dig out of two of the cups. I bought a 3/16 inch cork sheet, cut a strip of the correct width and it fit right into the cup's groove with no problem. It went in with no problem and appeared exactly as the old cork had looked before I removed it - except it was clean and unworn. The design of the cup naturally slants the cork to fit against the ball it rides on. The completed U-joint ready to install.

That certainly looks like a backward step in Chrysler engineering. I feel your pain.

I made the colossal mistake of selling my first car, a1932 Dodge, after owning it a scant two years. It was my very good fortune to have sold it to a fraternity brother who kept it in his grandmother's garage for forty three years. Phil sold it back to me two years ago. Hardly a day went by that I didn't think about that old car and finding her again was one of the most memorable moments in my life. I would never let her go again no matter what the price.

Restoration Supply sells matting similar to Phil's very nice originals, but the pattern, although a very close match, is twice the size of the original. The eighth inch solid strips are a quarter inch on the new stuff. So far it's all I've been able to find, so I may have to grit my teeth and sacrifice some originality.

Mine finally came off with a bang that sounded like a grenade going off. I whacked my puller tight, let it sit overnight, then whacked it again in the morning - that's when it let go.

So does this mean I have a 1/6 chance that my clutch is balanced, since there are six mounting holes?

No stampings on mine, but I did manage to install it correctly. I noticed that the Owners Manual suggests marking the pressure plate so it can be installed back in the same way. Guess who didn't do that when the engine was pulled two years ago. I could find nothing on the pressure plate that indicated a direction or position, but both it and the disk were rebuilt, so I assume whatever position it once held is immaterial at this point.

Where did you find those (running board mats)? Are they the same as on a DL?

Checked with Myers and that felt seal is about an inch too big. Looks like I'll be experimenting with cutting cork sheets. If that fails I might give the headlight corks a try. Thanks for the advice.

The tube faces down into the bellhousing. It must be some sort of ventilation as the top is hollow to allow air to go in and down the tube. Just a guess, but that's the way they built them and it shows up in the Owners Manual looking exactly the same.

I have a 32 and this may not be the same setup you have, but as I recall my 48 Plymouth had a similar design. As ArticiferTom says, the spring should be hooked into a small hole on the bellhousing and then is trapped by the bellhousing access hole cover. It's a bit hard to take a good photo of this area, but you should be able to see how it works from these shots taken with the access cover removed... If your spring came loose, you may not have the cover on correctly as it should trap the spring securely. This is assuming you do have a cover. Hopes this helps.

Here's what mine looks like.

The Dot 5 vs. Dot 3 argument has been done to death on these forums. You will get plenty of opinions from both sides. I'm going with silicon because mine will be a virgin system with new everything and because I'm sick and tired of Dot 3 eating the paint off anything it touches. I used silicon in my 48 Plymouth and never had a bit of trouble. Others will undoubtedly chime in with opposite experiences and I have no reason to doubt their veracity. Thie whole thing is like arguing who really killed JFK!

I just bought some 3/16 inch cork sheet and I'll give it a try as soon as it arrives. I should be able to cut this with my circle cutter - we'll see.