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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. I had a close look at Phil Kennedy's original DL when I went to visit him last month. All the rubber - floormat, pedals, and draftpads had the same unusual ribbed design. I know there is no way I'll ever find - or make - an original floor mat, But I'd like to try and get the draftpads correct. I may have to get Phil to take some close shots of his pads, with measurements, so I can make a pattern on my 3D graphics program and have it printed on a 3D printer. I can use that model to make the molds. Steele has some nice stuff, but none that matches the DL.
  2. The rodders seem to like a smooth back not the "bustle back" featured on the DB coupes.
  3. Draftpads - you learn something new everyday. If you don't mind I'd like to read the articles you're talking about. PM me and I'll get you my email address. I had good luck making a set of axle pads for my 29 Plymouth years ago. The rubber pads were bonded onto a metal support and it all worked smoothly. The large, flat area of the draftpad may be more of a problem, however. You can't blame a guy for trying.
  4. Does anyone have a loose 32 DL mat - the one that surrounds the gearshift and brake levers? I'd like to try and reproduce it with the steel core. There is no trace of the one that used to be on my DL. I'll be glad to return it once I make the pattern mold. Was there also a matt around the pedals? RT
  5. There you go! Amazing what 80 years of UV light will do.
  6. My DB is a very early 32, made in the first month of production. It has a long tail light stalk, where Phil's (later in the production year) has a short stalk. His window shade brackets are also different than mine, but both are the originals. Chrysler probably used up what they had in stock and then started using the new supply. That could explain the engine color differences. Our cars may have been built in different plants - although I don't know if Dodge had more than one plant in 1932. I know 48 Plymouths made in California had different woodgraining than those made at the same time in Eastern plants.
  7. Interesting. I know my 48 Plymouth and 50 Dodge were silver. Phil Kennedy's 32 DL has gray paint also and his is a very original car.
  8. I'd like to know that myself. My engine appears to be plain gray, but I don't know if that's original.
  9. I certainly wasn’t suggesting that Phil would have desecrated the dash. As I've said before, he was a better caretaker than I. It was that way when I bought it – along with the snappy half vinyl, half fabric interior and half yellow wheels and half black.. I actually used the “defroster” for a year before the hose disintegrated. In my naivety, I thought at the time that it was original equipment. Ah, the days of innocent youth.
  10. A similar thing happened when I restored a 1929 Plymouth. The original mohair interior appeared to be wine red - odd since the car was painted black and greenish-blue. When I found unexposed material it turned out the mohair was originally dark blue! I'll look up puckboard, thanks for the tip.
  11. Today, my wife, Kathy, and I took the seats and window frames over to the fellow who is going to do the woodgraining and upholstery. I had sent samples of the seat and door fabric to SMS and LeBaron Bonney and gotten some close matches back - or so I thought. As Crin, the upholstery guy, and I were talking about the stitching on the door panels, my lovely wife said, "Did they use different fabric up there?" as she pointed to the top of the panel. It did look like totally different fabric, but how could that be? It was one solid piece of cloth. Then we realised that this section had been hidden under the window frame and had never been exposed to light. I always assumed that the light to medium tan color of my upholstery - the sections not replaced with cheap black vinyl - was the correct color. Phil Kennedy's all original upholstery was the exact same shade. But there, lurking in the areas of fabric that never saw the light of day, was the true color of the fabric as it must have come from the factory. A rich, dark brown! Here is the unexposed fabric on top with the exposed on the bottom. Just a bit of a difference! By some miracle we hadn't ordered the fabric yet. This certainly changed everything. All our preconceived notions went right out the window. We checked through a LaBaron Bonney catalog that Crin had handy and discovered an almost perfect match for both the seat and door material. The seat material even has the correct small ribs we could never find in the lighter tan fabric samples. Kathy couldn't be happier as she was lobbying for a darker interior from the get-go, but I always opted for what I thought was the authentic shade of tan. Now we're both happy. She got dark and I got authentic.
  12. Looks like the 31 dash is close to the 32. here is the back of my dash with the wood insert sitting in its slot. The little tan tag of paper is a small bit of the paper lining that was glued to the dash as seen in the photos in an earlier thread. The missing piece of wood is where the knucklehead PO cut it out for his homemade windshield defroster. Notice the that the back of the dash was never painted and is still almost rust free after 81 years. There is a piece of felt padding between the wood and the dash. There was also some paper padding in the corners, but since this dash was obviously removed to modify the defrosto-matic, I'm not sure if it is original. Here you can see the holes drilled in the top of the dash for the defroster. They will all be filled before the woodgrain goes on.
  13. Yes, that is a kind of fiberous padding glued to the metal. A piece of wood sits over it and then the dash piece fits over that. I will take photos of the back of the dash and the wood tomorrow when I'm out in the shop. Some pervious owner decided to make a home-made defroster system and drilled that hole in the middle of the dash and carved out the space above the steering wheel along with cutting the inner wood piece in half. He then drilled a series of holes in the top of the dash and attached a heater hose to the hole to blow air up though it and onto the windshield. All of that will have to be repaired. The car is currently 150 miles away at the body shop, but I will check on the windshield area next time I'm there. Phil Kennedy may chime in and get you a picture from his very original DL sedan. If you have a hood I really could use it. My body man says my hood will be the hardest part to get right. I only need the driver's side pieces but will take the whole thing if you don't want to separate the unit. Please PM me if you can help. RT
  14. And because of that, I expect to open up the engine and find clean, almost new bearing surfaces, pristine valves and no wear whatsoever. Of course I also expect Congress to pass a balanced budget, world peace and to win the Lottery this week. <quickprintreadystate style="display: none;"></quickprintreadystate>
  15. I surrender. In my case there was plenty of evidence in the joints that were glued. I do find it hard to beleive that other joints would be free of any traces, but as I stated, I'm no expert. One car does not qualify me to give anything but an opinion based on limited experience.
  16. The good news is the top of the 32 dash just unscrews and comes off as a separate piece so I can access both sides and not have to worry about damaging the glass. Here's the top piece in place - And with it removed - So working on it should be easy.
  17. I don't claim to be an expert on Fisher Bodies and you may be correct. When I restored my 1929 Plymouth U all of the top wood and the floor sills were rotten and had to be replaced. This meant a total disassembly of the body. The car was a two door. Chrysler designed it so everthing behind the doors came off in one piece - actually it was three pieces welded together but acted it as a single unit in removal. That left me with the doors - some wood for support, and the front cowl with wood supports for the winshield area and door hinges. The only wood in the car that was glued together were the two large roof beams on each side above the doors. They were so large the factory opted to make them out of several pieces glued together with finger joints. The rest of the wood framework came apart when I unscrewed the screws and bolts holding them together. They were never glued together. This wasn't a situation where the glue dried out or anything, it was obvious from the surface of the joints that no glue had ever been used. The uprights were held to the floor with metal castings and locked into the top beams with a mortise and tenon joint held together with a screw - no glue. Fisher Bodies must have had a different method. I know most of the bodies in the twenties consisted of many smaller panels nailed to the wood framework with the joints covered by a decorative strip. They didn't have the larger, more solid one-piece back and probably needed the glue. Like I said, I'm no expert, but I do know that the gentleman who helped me with the woodwork told me, "If the factory didn't glue it, don't you glue it." The car was squeak free and solid as a rock.
  18. Something of a lull in the restoration. I didn't think pictures or text of me cleaning up the garage would be very interesting. My body guy, Ed, is off to a metal working meet on the east coast, so metal work on the car won't begin until the first week in May. It's given me a little time to think about the process that will be happening over the next few months. One thing I really noticed as I took the interior out was the lack of much double-wall construction. When I worked on my 1950 Dodge Wayfarer, one of the big problems wass getting access to body panels. There was almost always an inner panel in the way - with lots of rust in between. On most of the 32 DB it's a single layer of steel, easy to get at from the front or the back. Even the doors seem to have more openings and working on them will be much easiler. Having said that, the two areas that need work - the dent in the roof above the windshield and the area below the doors both have double walls. It figures. In the meantime, I'm going to clean up and repaint the front seat frame, cut out new floorboards - I found some very high quality marine plywood and one 4X8 sheet will take care of everything. It better at 90 bucks a pop! I also need to do some minor straightening on the inner window frames and get them over to the woodgraining guy. One setback came when I discovered a former owner - pre 1965 when I bought the car - had created his own defroster by drilling a series of holes in the top of the dash, cutting a section of the wood support behind it, and running a heater hose up through the opening. Now I have seven or eight holes to fill in the top of the dash before it can be woodgrained. I know a TIG welder is better for this, but I only have a MIG, so I'll be practicing a bit before I tackle the actual dash. Does anyone actually make round metal plugs for jobs like this? It seems like making the plugs will be harder than the welding. Pictures coming as I get to these tasks.
  19. I like the teflon tape idea. Freezing might br a little tough on the new paint. And as usual, the fly in the ointment is the fact that the car is currently 140 miles away at the body shop and the frames are home with me. Now I know why a parts car comes in handy.
  20. Thanks Dodger, I'll take a look. RT
  21. I'm afraid there's too much force between the pieces for a trash bag to work. It would probably just tear. I need to come up with something very thin, very strong and very slippery. Don't you wonder how they did it at the factory?
  22. This is the kind of annoying problem that always seems to crop up during a restoration. Because I tend to get obsessed with one thing and become sidetracked, I thought I'd seek help here instead of on my rebuild thread. I removed all the interior window surrounds, or frames, the other day. Not a difficult job - take the screws out, remove the top piece, lift out the bottom piece. As I did the job, I found that getting the top, upsidedown U-shaped frame out was a bit of a problem. The lower ends of the piece bound on the top of the sill piece. It took some force to pry them out, and the edges of the lower ends scraped across the top of the sill and it left some marks. Now I'm going to redo the woodgraining in the original patterns with the usual method of basecoat, wood pattern, then clearcoat. My question is - how do I get the frames back in without scratching the heck out of the top of the sill piece? The new woodgraining with it's clearcoat is going to be even thicker than the original. I know when I set the bottom sill piece in place and then try to install the upper frame, it's going to scratch up my new woodgrain. I can post some actual pictures tonight if this isn't making sense. I don't want to trim the lower legs of the upper frame - the factory designed things for a reason and I don't want to end up with a non-original gap. Anyone have any suggestions? Anyone who may have encountered this problem in the past? My only possible solution is to try and place a very thin sheet of plastic between the two and hopefully pull it out once things were in place, but with my luck it would probably get jammed in there and rip up the finish as I pulled it free. Any help is more than welcome. RT
  23. My 32 Dodge also has Freewheeling engaged by a large knob in the center of the dash. It doesn't have the vacuum clutch (or it was removed at some point), but Phil Kennedy's original 32 DL still has all the mechanism intact.
  24. A bit of good news, Phil Kennedy found the rest of my mirror - the glass and the other attaching parts, so that problem is solved. Thanks for the help everyone.