Scott Bonesteel

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Everything posted by Scott Bonesteel

  1. It has been a very long time since I did mine but I do recall I did not split the hose, just drove the shaft out with a punch. If it slips when you put it back in, you can probably carefully crimp the bracket until it grips or hit the end of the shaft with a prick punch, which should expand it enough to lock it in place. Or, epoxy it in place.
  2. I have never seen any protection used on the brake line going through these two formed holes. Quarter inch line is pretty stiff so if you locate the line in the center of the hole, it probably won't move. On the gas line on the passenger side (which is also run down the outside of the frame rail--not a good idea if you ask me) spring wrap is used to protect the line up by where it might be hit by stones thrown up by the front tires. I suppose that could be used on the couple of inches of brake line that runs through the frame or use my usual favorite, a short piece of gas or vacuum hose, slipped over the line and positioned right in the hole.
  3. OK, I have to remember my brain is getting old... . All of the above is correct except the front brake line when it comes off of the master cylinder does NOT go inside the frame rail, it just snakes through the engine compartment directly to the T mounted on the driver side angle brace, coming into the center hole. The front hole goes to the passenger side and the rear hole on the T goes to the driver side, as described above. All of the rest of the above is correct. Attached are some photos from the original installation on my 34 DRXX coupe, which is identical to the 34 PE, at least according to the parts book and according to the 3 34PEs I have owned. The photos show the engine compartment routing, the front T on the frame angle brace, the run down the outside of the driver side frame rail (looking forward) and the bracket at the rear cross-member where the hose to the rear end attaches. The illustrations are from the 34 Plymouth Maintenance Manual. Hope all of this helps. 
  4. The 34s all have wood stringers under the body and on top of the frame rails. There are small rubber-impregnated fibre rectangular pads under each of the body bolts, between the wood and the frame rails. These rubber pads are also under the front bolts (where there is no stringer) and under the rear couple of bolts (from the top of the wheel well back) where there also is no wood stringer. Rubber is about two inches wide and about 3 1/2 inches long.
  5. '34 PE brake lines are all 1/4". I have some photos of the original installation that I will pull up and shoot your way with some cuts from the '34 Plym service manual. Brake lines were 'T'd' off the front of the master cylinder and then run inside the frame rail a short way and then outside of the frame rails via the blister-type hole in the outside frame rail. The line is clipped to the outside of the rail and then re-enters the inside of the frame rail by the front mount for the rear spring, through a similar blister hole in the outside frame rail. It then runs through the inside of the frame back to the rear cross-member, where it drops down to the rear end via a hose. There is a steel strap bracket attached to the rear cross-member that serves as an attachment point for the hose. On the front, the line runs through the inside of the frame rail and exits up by the steering box where it goes into the brass T mounted on the inside of the frame angle brace running from the side rail to the front cross-member. From there, one line runs back into the inside of the frame (between the angle brace and the driver side frame rail), where it ties into the inside of the brass hose bracket that protrudes through the outside frame rail and provides the connection point for the driver side front brake hose. Going back to the T, the other line runs along the inside edge of the front cross member (attached with two clips) and over to the brass hose bracket for the passenger side hose, a mirror image of the driver side.
  6. Exactly. Roller attaches with sheet metal screws on TOP of the inside door panel, with the roller and shaft hanging down. See attached the one on my 34 PE (with the vacuum hose!).
  7. What I found works well is a piece of rubber vacuum hose, cut to length. Slips right over the shaft. Mine has worked for years like that.
  8. Looks like those reflectors will work great! Certainly better than my old Christmas lights ones, although those worked pretty well. On the roller, that does not attach to the frames, it attaches to the door itself, outside of the window frame, and serves as a roller against the vertical divider between the vent window and the main window. When I get home tonight I will shoot you a picture of the installation. SMB
  9. Dave--I don't think those brackets are for a 34 sedan. The rack and some of the brackets are correct but below the first set of arms that bracket would require two penetrations on each side through the gas tank apron. On my 34 PE sedan (and all of the other 34 Plymouth sedans, 2-dr and 4-dr, the bracket is a big casting for each side with a vertical post that bolts through the bottom to the two 'ears' mounted on the rear of the rear cross member--the same ears where the 34 rear spare tire bracket is bolted up through the bottom (which is different than the 33 spare bracket, which is bolted directly to the rear cross-member, the bolts running horizontally, back to front, instead of up through the bottom). There is then a 'V' bracket of two adjustable rods that run from those vertical posts up to the small bracket up further on top of the rear cross member, at the same point where the single support shaft bolts for the rear spare. See the attached photos of my 34 PE sedan rack, showing the brackets (sorry for all the sawdust all over everything, I had just been running my saw in the garage... .) The other photo is of a spare rack I have with a set of the posts.
  10. On the 34 DRXX have been collecting pieces and parts (water pump, brake parts, etc.) before I take a run at getting it back on the road. Managed to find a set of headlight lenses and reflectors (it had an ugly sealed beam conversion on it when I bought it, thankfully they didn't damage the shells when they installed it) and now it looks much better up front. Tied up right now getting the engine and trans back in the finished chassis on my PE convertible right now, so that has taken precedence. Plus, as you know, I still have to go to work! Good to hear from you, hope all is well with you and CN.
  11. It is amazing how much just a little bit will help brighten those tail lights. Here in the states, Ron Francis and other suppliers have what they call 'bright bulbs' that put out significantly more CP than the originals, even with 6 volts. I originally put tin foil in mine on my 34 PE sedan and then got some of those reflectors that used to be put behind Christmas lights and used them for years. Finally painted the insides with reflective silver paint. Easy to see now. SMB
  12. Dave--Take a look at my response to Aadams90 in response to his question in the thread 33/34 roadster, from about a week ago. Set forth the differences there with a couple of pictures. Plymouth in 33 and 34 did not make a roadster in the states and called its cabriolet-type car a 'convertible coupe' as ply33 notes. See attached pages from the 34 Plymouth sales brochure.
  13. Here are a couple of photos of open roadsters and tourings, all right hand drive.
  14. As I indicated in my private reply and as ply33 indicates, foreign Plymouths only for 33 and 34 roadsters. The ones in the states are 'convertible coupes' like my 34 PE or Chris in Texas 33, roll up windows like what the Ford guys call a cabriolet. Plymouths (and Dodges) convertible coupes do have a fold down windshield like a roadster, unlike most other cabriolets, where the windshield pillar is an extension of the body sheet metal. I have attached two of the few pictures I have of a Plymouth roadster, I believe this is a 34 Australian version. If you look at the top bows (and I am assuming these are originals, I don't know), there is no true 'B' pillar like in the convertible coupes (which is needed for the window frame to roll up against), the pivot point being further to the rear of the car. The third picture is my 34 convertible coupe, so you can see the difference. In short, the top bows would not interchange. None of my part books show any roadster parts so no help there. Good luck on finding a set of those unless you can hunt in Australia. I would suggest you contact someone 'down under'. 33-34 convertible coupe top bows are nearly impossible to find and I would wager that roadster top bows ARE impossible to find. Post some pictures!!
  15. Dave--Attached photo is of a 34 PE dash, showing the 4 mounting holes. SMB
  16. Yes, 35 and 36 Plymouth and Dodge, 4" x 16", ten holes.
  17. YEEEEOOOOWWWW!! Sold for almost $1500. I need to check out my extra parts pile... .
  18. Scott Bonesteel

    1934 PE ??

    Late model rear end for sure, see the tube shocks instead of the lever shocks. Looking at the side profile of the cab I again note that there will be a mis-match with the 33-style cowl and the 34 PE long hood. Who knows... . SMB
  19. As indicated, those two pieces are found on 33s and 34s (the other parts in your photos are from a 33) go on the lower front corner of the door jamb, tacked into the A-pillar wood trim and screwed with one slotted sheet metal screw into the floor steel. Photo of one installed in a 2-door sedan is attached, the small black item at the corner of the door. These are also reproduced and hard to tell from the originals.
  20. I see that Dave has provided you with the serial number run for 34s. The 3009270 on the door jamb plate is the car serial number, which should match the engine block number if the engine was never changed. The '3' series of serial numbers is an indication that the car was built in California (Los Angeles) rather than in Detroit. The other number on the firewall plate is the body number, with the 'CC' standing for convertible coupe. In contrast, a business coupe would have had a 'BC' suffix. The other tag on the firewall is the manufacturer's plate, which would have been red with lettering on it (although I have seen some early 34s with black plates) and stating Plymouth, Division of Chrysler, etc. These are almost always washed out (they were just painted, not stamped or engraved) and are the same for all 34 Plymouths. Very good reproductions are available, although they can be a little pricey. A photo of one is attached. One final number you may not have seen, if you look at the top of the firewall on the drivers side, next to the coil hole, there should be another number stamped into the metal. This is found on many coupes and convertibles. My 34 convertible has it, as does another firewall I have from a 34 convertible. My understanding is that these are basically convertible body numbers, and they run consecutively from 33 through 34, which makes the number run only about 8000 total. Let me know if you have any further questions.
  21. OK, having looked at all of the above, here are a couple of comments about why I would conclude this is a Dodge pickup cab that has been 'converted' to a Plymouth. First, the body tag is PD two door sedan. However, a two-door sedan would have had bucket seats in it. The problem is not with the bench seat there now but with the floor cross-member just ahead of the seat. Every 33-34 two door I have ever seen has brackets on that cross-member for the front pivot for the two door sedan bucket seats, so they can swing forward for access to the rear seat. If somebody was trying to get a better ration sticker with a truck there is no reason they would go to that detail. Second, the rear top corner of the doors is a dead giveaway to me that this was originally a truck cab and not a conversion from any type of car. The trucks have what this have: A rounded upper rear corner on the door, with the rain gutter following it around. All of the cars, as well as the KCL panels, have a squared off corner on the top rear corner. Again, no way someone would have gone to that amount of trouble to convert one of these. I will bet that upon close examination you will be able to tell that somebody swapped out the dash in this one. Interesting debate guys.
  22. Scott Bonesteel

    1934 PE ??

    34 short (108") wheelbase PF also had the independent front suspension, but yours is obviously the long, 114" PE wheelbase.
  23. Scott Bonesteel

    1934 PE ??

    OK, got a better look at the photos you had in your last post--looks like somebody has been doing some serious fooling around with this one. As per my prior response, cab looks like 33-34-early 35 series Dodge truck cab. The top rear corner of truck doors are rounded off and that is what you have, following the rain gutter. All of the 33-34 Dodge cars and even the KCL panel has a squared off corner, so I would seriously doubt that this was converted from a sedan. Particularly with the belt pattern and the bead on the B pillar, pretty sure this is an original Dodge truck cab. Hood is 34 Plymouth PE, 114" wheelbase, nothing else looks like that. Front fenders also look like 34 PE, they have the skirts on them and they are the longer skirts, so it is not from a short wheelbase PF or PG. In addition, the hood would be way too long otherwise. Those marker lights are not stock but I have seen them on some foreign 34 PEs and there is a guy in the Northeast (of the US) that used to have a couple of 34 convertible coupes with them so who knows. Note that the rear of your hood does not match up with the cowl vent area. That is because the 34 has a much wider cowl vent and cowl vent area than the 33s. Yours is definitely a 33 cowl. Who knows how that dash got in there, I agree with the posts above, looks like mid-30s Buick. Finally, the running boards look like 34s as they are wider than the 33s. What is interesting is that they look like they fit nicely with the rear fenders, which are clearly truck fenders (which have a 90 degree flange to mount against the bed sides as opposed to holes in the top lip on all of the sedans, coupes, commercial sedans and panels--similar to how the rear fenders attach on your 33 coupe). One might speculate that this is one of the rumored 34 Plymouth pickups that may have been made--there was an article about that in a Plymouth Bulletin from many years ago. If I recall, the conclusion was that they were never made, but who knows. Having played around with these cars since the early 1970s I have concluded that the more you know, the more you realize how little you know. Would be interested in seeing (1)what the front frame and suspension looks like when you get it home and (2) what a close inspection tells you about the dash, i.e., if you stick your head up under there, can you tell if it was grafted in there. Have fun and keep us posted.
  24. Scott Bonesteel

    1934 PE ??

    Looks like a 33 Dodge truck cab by the very straight and narrow A pillar. That bead on the B pillar also looks like 33 Dodge. See attached photo. SMB
  25. It has the typical red Dodge plate, rounded ends, about 3 1/2-4" long (about 100 mm to y'all), mounted on the firewall directly above the DRxx plate shown in the photos above. Faded to the point of being almost unreadable but you can tell it was red as opposed to the earlier black ones. SMB