Scott Bonesteel

https://www.srpmstreetrods.com/srpm/1933-35-plymouth-34-35-dodge-front-bumper-bolt-cover-paintable-40288bca55af858f01566b6616701cc7-p.html Try srpm street rods, a couple of folks make these, i think they are basically the same across the mid-30s mopars, fit my 34 dodges and plymouths. Note that even the originals tend to come off because they are only held on by the nature of the spring steel. What I have done is drill and thread a very small set screw into the bottom corner of the cover where it can not be seen, haven't lost one yet.

Light is a 34 Plymouth. The 35 has a trim ring around the lens and is different. Yes, there are springs inside the light body to hold the lens in place without a bezel. The glass lens is just slightly oval and is inserted top edge first and then slid into place, held in place by a ridge on the edge of the lens and by the internal springs on the body. Yours is a driver's side with the lens for the license plate light. Photos below are of the less common (it was an accessory) passenger side light without the license plate light, but the lens and the internal springs are the same both sides.

Spent several years on the high seas as a commercial fisherman/engineer and I know that there is no saying truer than 'A boat is a hole in the water into which you pour money.' However, this one is ONE BEAUTIFUL HOLE! Price seems reasonable for what must have been an astronomical cost of restoration/maintenance. Way out of my price range but gorgeous none the less.

There is a classic photo, I believe in the Crestline book on Plymouth, showing a factory photo of a 35 two-door sedan with two guys in overcoats standing on the rear bumper to visually 'lower' the rear of the car--they were subsequently 'photo shopped' (whatever the 1930's equivalent of that was...) out of the photo before it was released by the advertising department. Skulduggery aside, my favorite ads have always been the Baker Electric ads out of the teens.

OK my Mopars, Dodge and Plymouth, are all 34s but my 34 KCL Panel I believe has a similar front suspension to the 33 Dodge coupe. Shackles 33 and 34 are the 'silent U' type, which are a bi__h to install as they are threaded both inside and out. Attached is a photo of the shackle on the rear of the rear spring on my 34 Plymouth PE, which is identical to that on the rear of my 34 Dodge DRXX coupe. Second photo is a cut from the maintenance manual, showing how these are adjusted (I am not aware of such a manual for the 33s but, in any event, I don't have one). I also don't have the referenced 11/16" Mopar gauge No. C-329 (and have no idea what it even looks like...) so I fabricated a gauge out of 1/8" plate that can be inserted into the space between the shackle and the frame or spring during installation to maintain the 11/16" distance. Maybe there is a better/easier/more intelligent way to do it but this works for me. Not sure if this helps but I hope so.

Keeping with the true meaning of the word 'sorted', all of my old cars are 'sorted', i.e., their multiple problems/quirks are 'organized' into piles to be dealt with as time permits. None of them will ever be 100%, but such is life with machinery.

There was a similar topic thread recently, including a discussion between Keiser and me about an orange, double ended Pontiac Catalina that sat for years outside the Catalina Lounge at Voltaire and Catalina, also in San Diego/Point Loma. Made inquiries about it to the current Lounge owners and to a local photographer, both without any success. Still trying to locate a photo of that one.

Taking care of the results of many years of leaking rumble seat lid at rear floor pan of my 34 Plymouth PE convertible coupe. Cut out a 24 inch section of the bad metal for a patch but then remembered that my brake is only 20 inches wide--made the patch out of two pieces with 1/4-20 nutserts. Thankfully the only really bad rust in the entire car. The saga continues... . SMB

My 4 1934 Mopars (two Plymouths, two Dodges) are crammed into my garage along with more parts and tools than I should ever have. One golden, unbreakable rule: There always needs to be a space IN the garage to keep my wife's car out of the teeth of the Southern California Winters (and Springs, Summers and Falls). Roll it outside if I need the space to work but back in at the end of the day, only way to keep peace in the house.

Randy and his crew at Hot Rods and Custom Stuff in Escondido do nice work, not cheap but, as always, you get what you pay for.

Glad to have been of assistance. Lots of subtle differences in the 33-34 Mopars.

Here is a comparison. Red door with the Dr. Pepper logo (my FAVORITE wall hanger...) is from a pickup, the other is from my 34 KCL panel.

Here is a comparison. Red door with the Dr. Pepper logo (my FAVORITE wall hanger...) is from a pickup, the other is from my 34 KCL panel.

No. The 1/2 ton KC pickup truck ('Express') door is different at the top. The rear upper corner is rounded off whereas the 34 humpback is squared off, very similar to a sedan or coupe door. I have a couple of each and will shoot you some photos if you want them. I assume you could modify one either way without too much trouble. Make sure you have a 34 commercial vehicle as opposed to a car as the commercial doors are more 'vertical' in the front, like a 33 car. The 34 door has more of a rake to it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyVtR2V6bpI Another great video from the guys at Iron Trap Garage, walk around at Carlisle. Good thing I didn't go, that '39 Plymouth convertible would have come home with me...

Most of the Bakers I have seen have front fenders that don't curve downward in the front like this one, however see the attached Baker ad.

"W.S.H." perhaps is for "women selling hats".

OK, tried this method today. A little janky for my taste/comfort but, quite frankly, it worked perfectly! Thanks to dalef62 for his suggestion and for the morale support from Dennis 34 Carrott. Couple of hints: 1, make sure the jack is securely positioned under the lower A-arm; 2, place the chain as close to the spring lifting point as possible. If it is too far back or otherwise away from the lifting point, the back of the jack will try to lift. I attached my chain (see attached photo) as close to the lifting point as possible and clamped a vice grip on the attachment point/handle to keep the lower chain attachment from sliding under load. Again, thanks to all for your help, on to the rest of the chassis assembly. SMB

Going to try the chain approach this weekend, will report on the results. On that spacer, I think that is supposed to be there on both sides, both of my 34 PEs had them and they show up in the Maintenance Manual drawing attached in the above original posting, #46, "front spring spacer".

OK, this one has me more frustrated than stumped. I just had the frame on my 34 Plymouth PE convertible sandblasted and powder coated black, looks fabulous by the way. Installed all of the rear suspension and I am now tackling re-installing the front, independent front suspension, coils with a solid A-arm on the bottom and a double-acting Delco shock as the top arm. Per the Plymouth Maintenance Manual, I slid the coil spring in place and then placed a floor jack under the lower A-arm to compress the spring so that I can attach the king pin/spindle assembly, top and bottom. However, before the spring gets compressed enough to connect the king pin assembly, the jack is lifting the entire frame--so the spring never gets compressed enough. I have gone through this process several times on this PE as well as on my 34 PE sedan without a problem but this is the first time I have tried it without the engine installed in the frame, adding the extra weight that probably allowed the spring to compress before the jack lifted the entire car. Obvious solution? Spring compressor. However, these springs go well up into the large front cross member on the top and have 'caps' on both the top and bottom of the spring, closing off the inside of the coil, the lower one with a circa 3-inch bumper on it (inside of the coils), making it impossible to attach a spring compressor, either internally or externally to the coil. At this point it looks like my only option is to drop the engine/trans assembly back into the frame to increase the weight. Am I missing something? Anybody have a simpler solution? Don't think a ratchet strap between the frame and the lower A-arm would be strong enough to compress the spring.

Pages from the Dodge Brothers Passenger Car Maintenance Manual, First Edition, January 1934 (Publication # D-2545), on how to adjust the camber on these independent coil front suspensions.

The camber on these 34 Mopar independent front suspensions is adjusted by loosening the large nut that attaches the front shock arm to the upper yoke on the suspension/king pin/spindle assembly and inserting or removing washers or spacers to make the adjustment. Use alignment spacers, which are U-shaped so you do not have to completely undo the shock from the yoke. Give me a minute and I will send you copies/pictures of the instruction/specification pages from the 34 Dodge Maintenance Manual.

Did some quick research and both the 35 Dodge and the 35 Plymouth have the headlight mounting bolt to the rear of the conduit.

TEMENDOUS HELP, thanks!! Scott B.

Not exactly sure but the 34-35 Dodge and Plymouth headlights look very similar, particularly on the DRXX Dodge. One major difference on the 34s is that the mounting bolt on the Plymouth is behind the electrical conduit, while on the Dodge the mounting bolt is ahead of the conduit. If that is true for 35 as well, these might be 35 Plymouth. Certainly Mopar, need to get a 35 PJ owner to confirm.