Scott Bonesteel

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Everything posted by Scott Bonesteel

  1. Little bit of trivia: That '69 Caprice is parked in front of Mission San Diego de Alcala in Mission Valley/San Diego. Still looks just like that if you wanted to re-create the photo. I believe Chevrolet was taking pictures throughout San Diego in that time frame, one ad photo was taken in my in-laws' driveway in Point Loma but I have never seen the resulting ad. Great looking Caprice by the way. SMB
  2. You can file this one under 'where there's a will, there's a way'. When my present house/garage were being rebuilt/remodeled, we moved into an apartment with a 2-car garage. By taking careful measurements and using a floor jack to get the panel and the coupe right up against the walls, my sedan fit in between with about 1" to spare on each running board. Allowed me to store the 'fleet' until our house was done.
  3. I agree with keiser and Bloo that the engine screams Chrysler product. I cannot find the block casting number in any of my parts books but the 1935 Dodge Truck Parts List for 'Trucks Built After June, 1935' lists the head number 636175 (without the -2) as "Cylinder head (high compression--6.5 to 1) K32V, K33V, K34V". The K32V, K33V and K34V are all 1935 Dodge 1 1/2 ton trucks.
  4. What is that rod or line you can see on the goat's right flank? Is that part of the harness or is it a linkage to the 'passing gear'?
  5. Was sometime in the early 1970s, saw an ad in the local newspaper for a 1930 Model A Sedan Delivery (not the panel) for sale. Car was in Fallbrook, CA, which at the time was about as far back in the woods as you could get in San Diego County. Stopped in that evening on my way to a job in Long Beach, car was unrestored, very straight and 100% there and original. Guy wanted $1500 which at the time was way more than my 'discretionary budget' as a young married working guy. Called my wife and told her about it and that I just couldn't spend the $1500. She called the seller the next day, on her own, to offer to buy it at the $1500--but it had already sold. Saw what I believed was the same car years later at a show, it had been restored, blue with black fenders, apparently a multi-show winner. Shortly thereafter I bought my 34 Plymouth PE sedan, which I still have today, and which started me down the road to my fixation with 34 Mopars--so sometimes it all works out for the best. By the way, still have the same wife today as well--again, sometimes it all works out for the best.
  6. Sorry to hear about the situation with your motor mounts. Not sure if it would help but you are welcome to come down to SD and look at the mounts on my 34 DRXX as an example. You may not remember me but we met at Vista a couple of years back, I had my 34 PE sedan (picture attached) and you had your sedan up and running. Following your thread, nice work, will have to pick your brain on local engine folks when I get to the engine on the DRXX.
  7. On the first post, 9th photo down, the rimless headlight with the wing on the top, in the lower left corner of the purple plastic bin is a 34 PE Plymouth. GREAT stash of stuff!! Hopes this identification helps find good homes for all of this.
  8. Here is a photo of the body color 'painted designation' which was on the rear passenger side back panel, 34 PE coupe. Note that in calling out the color, Gray Light Metallic, it also had the body style, PEBC, or Model PE Business Coupe. Color callout and body style did match what was originally on the coupe.
  9. I'm back, give me a call this afternoon, Saturday. SMB
  10. Shoot me a PM, I have a steering column, glass, misc other 34 parts, Southern California. SMB
  11. Here is one I purchased a few years back, can't recall how much it was but it was under $500. Only original one I have ever seen, but there are repops coming out of India now that look too pristine and the colors are wrong. Mine is complete with all the chips, rust and some sloppy re-paint on the lower half of the sign, but it still has the original holes from the neon wiring. Looks just fine on my garage wall and goes well with my 34s as it has the 'Motors' wording proper for 34 as opposed to the 'Corp.' wording used in 35 and later. Have seen one photo of an old Dodge/Plymouth dealership with this sign along with a similar size set of Dodge 'wings'--hate to think how much one of those would cost these days, pristine or not.
  12. We connected. I was out of the loop working out of town. SMB
  13. Should have been more specific: 1933 Studebaker Speedway St. Regis Brougham Model 92. I think the blue one posted by Keiser is the shorter Victoria.
  14. I have always been more than happy with my 34 Mopars but with the 'call of the question' being dream car, price is no object and largely unobtainable, I have to go with a 1933 Studebaker St. Regis Brougham, which I believe there are none known to still exist. Marvelous!!
  15. I have the upper piece, good luck finding the lower one. Shoot me a PM, I'm in San Diego.
  16. One of my favorite stories, told to me by my father about the 'old days' with his '41 Super Sedan was putting it up for the upstate New York winter in his father-in-law's large garage out back of the house. He would drive it into the garage, getting it as parallel as he could with the back wall of the garage, and then jack the car up by putting a standard bumper jack on the rear bumper. Claimed what he would do is then simply kick the Buick off the jack, towards the wall and then repeat that until the car was up against the wall. For once, bumper jack instability worked to his advantage, although I have a hard time figuring out how that would work with the Buick jack shown in these pictures. I do note, however, that he never told me how he would then get the car out in the spring... .
  17. Yes on both of them. Don't want to part with the brochure but will gladly send you copies of whatever you want. Have 2 radios, both out of PE, but both have the PF control head (black dial). Willing to part with either or both for a reasonable price or trade for any 33-34 convertible parts you might have. I will pull the radios out this coming weekend and send you some photos. SMB
  18. In the early 1990s I was involved in an accident with my 34 PE Plymouth sedan, guy ran a red light and I 'T-boned' him in the middle of the intersection. Despite the large, heavy front cross-member in those 34s with a stock coil independent front suspension and a 6", fully-boxed from the factory frame, the frame was bent to the extent that we had to do a front frame clip r&r. I had installed as a safety feature front disc brakes and I stood on them so hard that, coupled with the impact, the whole car pitched forward to the extent that the rear 'silent U' rear spring shackles flipped over. In short, until you have been in one of these crashes (and survive), you really cannot conceive of the massive forces involved. An old timer told me once that his bother had been killed in a similar accident, sitting in the rear seat, from being thrown through the wood roof frame of a closed car of some sort, chicken wire and all. Luckily, I had installed seat belts in the front seat. I used a set out of a full-sized GM car, using the buckle end (with the short belt) on the outboard side, which allowed me to bolt it directly to the large, through the frame body bolt that is conveniently located right there at the 'B' pillar. Ran the belt up through the seat frame and between the cushion and the side of the seat frame, using a large plastic sleeve from the original belts to prevent chafing of the belt as it ran through the sheet metal bottom of the seat frame. In the center, I bolted the belts, with integral retractors, to the floor with large reinforcing plates. During the crash they held me in place and I never even hit the steering wheel/column. Without them, I certainly would have been impaled/thrown through the windshield. Bottom line, you won't get me or my family in a car, new or old, without seat belts. Open car or not, I am incorporating a similar setup into my 34 PE convertible that is shown in my avatar.
  19. Mine was the same way when I found it. Had it fabricated based upon several pictures. Here is one of them, will shoot you the rest when I get back to my other computer. P.S. If it is a 34 Plymouth convertible coupe, it is not a PF. The convertible coupe was only available in the long wheelbase (114") PE model.
  20. https://www.estatesales.net/CA/Lakeside/92040/2324142?modal=true Just had this pop up, sorry for the late notice, starts tomorrow in Lakeside, CA, east San Diego county, looks like a LOAD of Chevy Tri-Five stuff, a Cadillac Torpedo sedan, etc.
  21. My 1935 Plymouth Parts List (Issued April 1, 1936, "Supersedes Issue of May 15, 1935") lists #631894 as "Gearshift rail and fork assembly (direct and second)" for a 1935 PJ Plymouth.
  22. My Dodge truck parts book shows #631894 as "GEARSHIFT SHAFT OR RAIL (2ND AND 3RD)" for a "KC,KCL (after 8048701-9203901-8911001)". Therefore, 34-early 35 KC or KCL (long 119" wheelbase) commercial chassis, express, humpback panel. Did not check my auto parts books.
  23. Tom-- Best I can tell you on the welting is as follows: No welting between the ends of the running boards and the fenders, the rubber vulcanized to the metal boards serves that purpose. Between the 'side sills' (splash aprons) there is typically a thin fibre welting without a bead, and those are riveted to the running boards, not bolted. When installed, the running boards just bolt to the brackets that stick out and the splash aprons just slip under the body without any welting. There is beaded welting between the front of the front fenders and the radiator shell and between the body and the rear fenders. Have seen cars both ways but I believe a beaded welt does go between the rear of the body and the top of the gas tank shroud. Good to hear from you again, hope all is going well, still trying to finish up my PE convertible. SMB
  24. Mopar, 33-34 side mount cover. If you look at the lip where the two parts come together they are typically stamped with the size, e.g. 600-16, 525-17, etc. 600 would be 34, others would typically be 33. See attached photo. The Chevy logo doesn't make sense because that would put the logo at the top and the cut-out on the cover in the 6:00 position. Depending on which side this one is for (they interchange with the exception of the logo position), the cut-out goes into the fender at the 8:00 position (for the driver side) or at the 4:00 position (for the passenger side). With that positioning, you should find the original mounting holes for the emblem at what would be the 12:00 position for whatever side it was mounted on. Unlike down on the flat part of the cover, where the Chevy logo is mounted, the Mopar logo was mounted more up on the curved part of the cover, like shown on Reg's '33 and in the attached photos.