Scott Bonesteel

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Everything posted by Scott Bonesteel

  1. Tom--Chris is right about the floor. From the pictures I posted you can see about what we mean. All of the floor behind the seat is welded in steel. There is a steel sill, about 4" or so wide, down each side with a ledge to set the floorboards into. The portion of the floor under the seat (and to which the seat tracks mount) is wood/plywood with a couple of hardwood runners on top and below where the seat tracks mount (although I have seen ones without that runner on top, with the metal seat tracks mounted directly to the plywood). This also has the battery cutout, with the door covering that cutout being metal. The floor under your feet, in front of the seat, is also plywood. The toe board is metal, with a lip at the lower/rear edge that the floorboard mounts into. Attached is a photo of a 33 Plymouth coupe showing this detail. I will look through my photos and see if I have anything more detailed. NOTE: Something else I just thought of: The bottom edge of the firewall has a 'lip' that makes it look like the toe board should also be plywood and attach there. This runs about two-thirds of the way across the bottom of the firewall, centered. That is actually a recess for the throttle linkage rod, which is covered up by the metal toe board once it is attached. SMB
  2. Chris--Looking good! I do think you are right about the location of the metal floor panel edge, it is too far forward. Attached are three photos, two of an original 33 convertible (the one the window frames I sent you came from) floor, and you can see about where the metal floor ends. I have also attached a photo of a 34 PE coupe floor, which is configured about the same, for reference on the cross member and where the floorboard fits. Keep on plugging! Scott B.
  3. Mike--ply33 beat me to it but that is the same book I have. As with most of the Plymouth parts books, it also has a 'part number' for the volume, in this case D-2660. I think I have just about all of the Plymouth (and most of the Dodge) parts books from the early 30s up through 35. There is a master parts list for Dodge as well. If you need a number, let me know and I will be glad to look it up for you. On my earlier comment about the Mopar parts numbers being weird, that was based upon what appears to be a practice of re-numbering parts or assigning different part numbers for the same part. Most common one is the 34 and 35 cast taillight and headlight stands. Yes, there were lots of different variations (painted, primed, chrome, with and without horn wire holes, etc.) but I have found many that are identical and yet have different numbers on them--often numbers that don't show up anywhere in the parts books, even the later editions such as the 1929-1939 Plymouth Master Parts List, number D-8575. As somebody commented, that makes it fun (or drives you crazy). SMB
  4. Chris--Ply33 is correct about the mounting location for the dash light switch. You know me, I'm a 34 PE guy, but every PE or PE dash I ever owned had the same instrument lamp switch, a photo of which is attached. The 34 PE parts book lists the part number as 79498. If you look at "Pre-1934 Plymouth Master Parts List", which includes the 33 PD, it shows the same part number, 79498, for the PA, PB and PD. Keeping in mind the weird world of Mopar parts numbers, my guess is that this is the switch for the 33 PD as well. Hope this helps. SMB
  5. Chris--I have a clear photo of a package shelf from a 34 convertible during restoration that I will send to you separately, it is too big for this website to handle. Maybe you can figure out how to re-post it for other's information.
  6. Chris--As you know, I have both a coupe and a convertible--the package trays are completely different. The coupe has a bolt in unit whereas the convertible has a shelf and 'seat backing' that is integral with the body. See the attached photo.
  7. Have a near-mint, probably early takeout 33 Plymouth convertible coupe driver side window. Glass and setting fully intact, frame perfect, no rustout at all, still has most of the original cad plating on the window tracks, wheels intact, original safety glass still in place. Will trade for a 34 Plymouth convertible coupe window frame or will consider trade for other 34 Plymouth convertible parts. Let's talk!
  8. To chevy52up, I would be interested in the steering column shaft. Yes, it is called a 'shaft and worm' as it has a worm gear pressed onto the lower end. Just need to make sure it has the splined top end, 40-tooth. Thanks. SMB
  9. Chris--I checked and I don't have a locking 33 Plym handle. But, one was just listed on ebay yesterday. Good luck!
  10. Been awhile since I've been up to Jamestown, hope all is well with y'all. On the dash, if you look at the Dodge truck parts book, the KCL underwent a dash change after a certain point. My KCL panel is a 34 and has the 3-hole instrument panel without the glove box. I have seen 34s and 'first series' 35s (suicide doors) with 3 hole dashes, both with and without glove boxes. You're right, they're all over the [dash]board.
  11. Couple of quick items: First, I believe I have the parts you need for your 33 window frames. You have my number so give me a call. On the number stamped next to the coil hole, that number is different from the car serial number and, according to the people I have talked to, those were sequential from 1933 through 1934 on the convertible coupe bodies. They don't seem to show up anywhere else in those number ranges. My convertible has the same type of number stamped on it, as does an original firewall from another convertible. I seem to recall that there is somebody in the Plymouth club that has been collecting information on this number sequence, attempting to catalog all of the remaining convertibles. Looks like you are making progress!!
  12. I have a very nice 34 PE deck lid that I would be willing to trade, Southern California location. Give me a call if interested. Will post a photo later today. SMB 619-807-7830.
  13. Perfect. Go ahead and send me the whole thing. Call me with the shipping cost and I will send you the entire amount. Thanks again! SMB
  14. Got your phone message,thanks, sorry I missed you. Give me a call at your convenience or post and I'll call you. SMB
  15. While it doesn't help much on convertibles (although they may have been marked as well) you often find factory chalk marks on the inside of closed cars, setting forth the body style (here, a 34 PE business coupe) and the color (the light metallic gray, 'gray metal light'). This was marked on the right rear of the top, to the side of the rear window.
  16. Nice PD. I have the remnants of a 33 PD convertible body, doors and back only, but the best I can tell you about the interior color is that it appears to be plain metal, perhaps with some sort of metal treatment on it, which is what my 34 PE convertible has on it. I do have a 34 PE convertible firewall with the original paint still on it (you can tell it is a convertible because it has the unique convertible number series stamped up by the coil hole) and it appears to be a gloss black or, at the very least, a semi gloss.
  17. All I need is the shaft, I have the jacket and the wheel. Either the P7 or the P8 shaft should work but I would think the P7 is easier since it is a floor shift (and is what I have) and doesn't have the big column with all the shift mechanism. By pulling the wheel you should be able to tell if it is a splined shaft--actually, just by removing the horn button (held on with three screws from the back side of the wheel) and removing the nut holding on the wheel you should be able to tell if it is a spline type or keystock type. Let me know what works for you. Thanks for the prompt reply. You can reach me at 619-807-7830. SMB
  18. Trying to find the steering column shaft for a 39 P7 Plymouth. Parts books seem to indicate the P7 and the P8 are the same (Part #691445), even though the P8 is a column shift and the P7 is a floor shift. Shaft is 3/4" diameter, with the hole down the middle for the horn button. Most important, the steering wheel end is splined for the wheel, not a keystock. Spline is 40-tooth, looks like 11/16". Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  19. Don't know if these made it to the crusher yet but if not I need a steering column shaft, either P7 or P8 should be the same, it is the one that is a 3/4" shaft with the hole down the center for the horn button and, most importantly, the splined top for the steering wheel rather than the keyway type. The spline is 40 teeth, 11/16". Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  20. I also have a 34 KCL panel in the works and I agee totally with the post above. Note that the 34 Dodge cars are completely different and will not interchange, although the 33s will. There is almost no literature on these but what I have I would gladly search through for you if you need some specific information. Welcome to a very small club!
  21. Thought I would jump in here because I have a 34 KCL humpback. As you see, the 33-early 35 rear doors do not interchange with the later models. The doors are all steel, without any wood framing. Note also that they are all on the long wheelbase frame, 119", so they do not interchange with even the pickups, unless it is one of the fairly rare long wheelbase pickups. Accordingly, the running boards don't interchange with the coupes or sedans. Welcome to the fun.
  22. And here is a photo of the full 37 Plymouth horn button.
  23. Plymouth but not 34 (although it looks like the hood ornament and the logo on the 34 glovebox door). Looks like what you have is the center that has been cut out of a 37 Plymouth horn button. If so, probably is about 1 3/4" across.