Scott Bonesteel

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Everything posted by Scott Bonesteel

  1. Here are the headlight photos, also showing the blanking caps for the horn wires. The parts book lists these as part #627574, but they look like a standard hole plug. As stated above, these lights are smaller than the standard DR headlights and do not have the ridge on the top.
  2. Ian--OK, catching up on a couple of questions. Attached, probably in a couple of posts, are various photos on the various topics above. DRXX firewall tag photo is attached, also showing 'BC' for business coupe. Note that the firewall itself is also stamped "491xx", which I can only assume it was the 491st (out of 2500 built) DRXX business coupes. I have seen similar number stamps on 34 Plymouth PE coupes and convertible coupes, number sequences that do not seem to correlate with either the body number or the serial number. On the issue of the window garnishes, found a nice old contemporary photo of a DRXX and you can see that the garnish is narrow, different than the DR (which has the breaker window thumbscrew), which comports with what the parts books show, that being a different part number for the DRXX window garnishes. Have included a couple of photos of my door panels and garnishes, as found, as well as one shot down the window slot, showing the 'stops' for the DR-type windows, which also comports with the parts books stating that the doors are the same part number.
  3. Scott Bonesteel

    1934 PE ??

    If there is no serial number on the passenger door jamb, is there a 'Briggs Body Number' plate on the firewall? If so, all PE 4-door sedans had numbers that started with a '600' prefix.
  4. Scott Bonesteel

    1934 PE ??

    Wheels look like later, circa 37 Mopar. Both the 34 PE (114" wheelbase) and the 34 Dodge (117" wheelbase DR, DRXX; 121" DS) had artillery wheels, each with a different pattern. The Plymouth wheels have more of a 'hole' configuration, with the 16" wheel having 10 holes and the 17" wheel having 12 holes. Dodge 34 rims have more of a raised spoke look to them and have a reinforcing piece around the hole for the hubcap. On both, the hubcaps snap into an opening in the wheel. The center section of the wheels is actually made of two parts, an inner and an outer piece, sandwiched together. My experience with the Plymouth wheels is that they are prone to bending and cracking around the bolt holes. 35-36 artillery wheels, at least on the Plymouths, look basically the same with a hubcap on them (although the stripe configuration on the hubcap is slightly different, the 34 stripe being closer to the edge of the cap). The 35-36 rim center is one piece, however, with clips riveted on to hold the caps. See the attached pictures. Attached photos of two 34 Plymouth coupes and a 34 Dodge convertible coupe, showing the artillery wheels.
  5. Welcome to a rather small club of owners! My 34 PE convertible coupe is still in the restoration stage but I would be glad to share whatever information would be helpful. SMB
  6. I took a rag and a little bit of Meguire's polish/cleaner, buffed a small area and rubbed it clean, all by hand, once it dried. Polished up quite nicely. Paint is the original Golden Beige Poly. A good solid weekend with a clay bar, some wax and some elbow grease and I think it will look great. Thanks to Dave for the water pump numbers. On the window garnishes and the headlights/lenses/reflectors, my 34 Dodge parts book seems to show that the window garnish is unique to the DRXX while it uses the same interior panels--guess they were not that picky about the garnishes matching the door panels. The headlights, lenses and reflectors are all apparently unique to the DRXX, or at least different from the DR and DS.
  7. Hello all--As my avatar shows, I have always been a 34 Plymouth PE guy (despite having owned a 34 KCL panel for years...). I simply could not pass this one up: 34 DRXX business coupe, purchased from the family of the original owner and garaged all its life. Pictures show how straight the darn thing is. Unmolested, basically all stock, original DR 218. Came out of Northern California and is basically rust free. Attached photos show it when I picked it up a little over a month ago (yes, they are still out there!). While I am very familiar with the subtle differences between the various 34 Plymouths and the specifications for a 34 DR, this DRXX has some differences that I need to clarify. Somebody out there must know the answers to these questions: --Doors on the DRXX have just the single glass as opposed to the dual-function with windwing found on the DR. This car has window garnishes without all the curves and the deep skirt. Basically look like a 33 Dodge or Plymouth with a very short, straight skirt and without the cutout for the vent 'shift lever'. Is this correct? Seems like the DR garnish would be incorrect because it has the hole for the windwing thumbscrew. --Headlights are not the elongated ones with the ridge on top I have always seen on DRs. They are Stabilites, a little bit stubbier and without the top ridge. A sealed beam conversion has been done. Do they take the same lens and reflector as the DR? I know, for example, that the cheaper 34 PF and PG Plymouths had a different lens than the more expensive PE and I would suspect that this 'cheapo' model Dodge might have the same. Headlight stanchions are the same as the DR but have blocking plates for the horn wires. --What is the upholstery pattern on the doors? Seems like the pattern with the fancy top scroll to match the DR garnish molding would be incorrect, but that is what it has. Haven't taken them off but if you look in the top of the window slot you can see that some of the stops for the DR-type windows are there, without the thumbscrew mechanism. The door panels have the DR-type ridges on them, which look somewhat strange as there is no hole or thumbscrew for the wind wing. --While not (I don't think) DRXX specific, what water pump does this 34 DR 218 take? All of the replacements I see are 35 and up. Perhaps they fit but could use some help on this one. Want to keep this one as original as possible but I'm too old to do this more than once. Thanks in advance for your help. SMB
  8. That is a rear trunk ('boot' to y'all) emblem from about a '37. Note that it says 'CORP' instead of 'MOTORS'. Use of 'CHRYSLER CORP PRODUCT' did not appear until 35 on Plymouth emblems. Might look nice but not correct for your 33. I think I agree with the prior posts to the effect that those holes were probably there from a later added license plate. Or maybe somebody put a 37 emblem on there, who knows at this point. SMB
  9. I believe they are actually a steel frame with a stainless shell crimped over the top. Or they are in fact chromed steel. I have a NOS or very early takeout 33 Plymouth convertible coupe window and frame assembly, picture attached. While it looks like stainless steel, it holds a magnet. If you look closely at the inside edge of the channel, you can see that the edge appears to be crimped over, perhaps over a steel core. Chris has a set of 33 frames he got from me which do not have the glass in them so he can probably give you a better idea.
  10. Obviously, I meant the 1970s, unless the Norman invaders did the work in 1070...
  11. Engine and drivetrain all there and seems to be free. Last run about 3-4 years ago but needs the radiator re-done and a new water pump. Came from the family of the original owner who have had the car since 34. Has about 76,000 original miles on it, with only about 500 since 1961 when it was pretty much retired to the garage--has been in covered storage ever since. Upholstery has been redone, I believe in the early 1070s, in a roughly correct pattern but the rest of the car is untouched and original. Even has the spare wheel lock on the rear spare, under the hubcap (on the lug nut) that has the original Omega 'bent key' that matches the ignition key. I have never seen one of these. Will try to get the rest of the car cleaned up (I literally only hosed off the front end and dried it before taking the above picture) next weekend and will take some pictures to share. Nice original car that should not take too much to get it back on the road. Wasn't really looking for another car (trying to get my 34 PE convertible back on the road...) but this one was too nice to pass up. Best as I can tell, while there were about 15,000 DRXX models built, all in Detroit, only about 2000 of those were business coupes. SMB
  12. OK, got my 34 DRXX home, hosed off and all of the rats' nests cleaned out.
  13. Thought I would jump into this thread as I have been corresponding with Ian on his 34 Dodge, even though my ride has always been 34 Plymouth. Well, I made the leap and picked up a 34 DRXX business coupe from the family of the original owner--also in the original Golden Beige Poly. It has the appropriate door jamb serial number, starting with '4', that matches up with the DRXX. After plowing through all the entries in the thread and spending some time with my library of 34 Plymouth and Dodge material, I send out the following thought for comments: I do not think the DRXX, which was an economy model of the 34 DR, not an 'export' version with the smaller displacement engine (that was the DRX), had the vent windows. I am very familiar with them because they are also on my 34 PE Plymouths--hard to make work right but when they do, great feature. This DRXX appears to be very original and not messed with and has just the single pane of glass in the doors, without the vents. It has what look like 33 window garnishes because they do not have the hole for the vent window winder nor the notch for the 'lever' that controls the dual function of these vent-type windows. They also don't have the larger apron found on 34s. If you look at the parts books closely the DRXX has a different part number for the door window garnishes than the standard DR, with the vent window. Obviously, if you look at production numbers, garnishes for a 34 DR would be much easier to find than those for a DRXX. Topic for another thread would be that the DRXX has, according to the parts books, headlights that are unique to the DRXX. Unlike the elongated Stabilite shells found on the DR, these are shorter, closer to a 34 PE headlight (which are TiltRay), but still are Stabilites. Will see what I can find on this topic--more fun! See attached photo of the DRXX interior.
  14. Think it is the same as the 34, there are two steel ball studs attached to the metal toe board (not the wood floor board) which basically pop into the back of the pedal at the bottom. Throttle linkage rod then comes up through the toe boar at about a 90 degree angle to the floor and inserts into the top, back side of the pedal. Weird setup but it works pretty well since it is a beefy linkage that can handle a lot of pressure. I will see if I can pull up a picture and send it your way. The pedals are fairly easy to find here in the states on ebay.
  15. I still have that one I sent you a picture of. Spoke one time to your 'shipper' in, I think, Tennessee, but never were able to hook up. Let me know if you still are interested. Sorry, only have the one. SMB
  16. Nice repro on ebay right now for $39 US.
  17. There is supposed to be a very small rubber 'flap' attached to the outside of the window frame that serves to seal that gap. I will shoot you a photo of it when I get a chance. On the window roller guide, it really is nothing more than a rubber tube over a steel shaft. I drove the shaft out and replaced the rubber roller (which was all cracked and hard) with a short piece of rubber vacuum tubing--exactly the same size, looks exactly the same, and mine has worked like a champ on my PE 4-door for 20+ years.
  18. That is a GREAT photo! Car is a 34 PE Plymouth. You can see the cutout in the window sill garnish for the lever that throws the 'double acting' front window mechanism, which was unique to the 34--the 33 has a single window, without a breaker window. In addition, those teardrop shaped escutcheons on the outside door handles are 34, and the late 34 models had them like that with the hidden screws. If you look closely you can also see that the handles have the 'winged' and pointed shape of the Plymouth handles instead of the curved inward handles found on the 33-34 Dodge. Chris is right that the 33 Plymouth had oval escutcheons with the screw heads showing. Final tip off is that you can just see the Plymouth PE hood door in the open position--unique to the 34 PE. Now all I need is to find one of those scarf heaters...SMB
  19. My understanding is that the DRXX was an economy model with the 4 louvre hood. I am going to look at what I believe is a DRXX business coupe next week that I am hoping to pick up for a full restoration. I know it has a 4 louvre hood and does NOT have vent windows, so I assume it is a DRXX. I will report back with photos of the car and a confirmation from the serial number and data plates. Car still in the family of the original owner and does not look like from the photos I have seen to have been messed with at all. Thanks to Stephen48 above for the information on the DT.
  20. If the serial number is correct, you have a 34 PE Deluxe 4-Door Sedan, built in Detroit. If the serial number started with a 3, it would be Los Angeles manufacture. Other ways to confirm the model are if there is a glove box (if not, car is a PG), has the wind wing thumbscrew at the upper corner of the front doors and has windwings (could still be a PF or PFXX). The serial number does confirm it as a PE. Wheelbase should be 114" and the hood should have louvres and dual doors. If wheelbase is 108" with just louvres on the hood, car is a PF or PG. Both the PE and PF had independent, coil spring front suspensions, the PG had a tube axle and parallel leaf springs. Don't be confused by the one wiper, many of the 34s, including the Deluxe PE, only had one wiper, one tail light and one interior visor--the passenger side ones were options. Attached is a factory photo of a 34 PE Deluxe 4-door sedan. Welcome to the group!
  21. Keep in mind that towards the end of 34, there was a transition from the old, HC and early KC unitized instrument cluster (as in Dave's picture above of the HC) to the three round gauges that were seen in what are typically known as 35 'first series' trucks. What makes it confusing is that the trucks seemed to have basically flowed from one year to the next without the clear breaking points. If you look at the parts books closely you will see that even late 34s underwent a dash change, changing over to the 3-gauge type (which really still is a cluster, but it is mounted behind the dash, with just the gauge faces and the knobs sticking through). These 'late 34-first series 35s' also came both with and without a glovebox. See the attached photo of a KCL with a 3-gauge, glove box equipped dash. My 34 KCL panel has round gauges and no glovebox, so they came both ways.
  22. I stand corrected, ply33 is right and the 34 is the same way. See the Maintenance Manual, Group 11 (Steering), page 3: "Before installing the pitman arm, the steering gear should be set in its mid-position which can be determined by turning the steering wheel from one extreme position to the other, counting the number of turns required, and then turning the wheel back half the number of turns required for the full swing. In this position, the spoke of the steering wheel which has the trademark on its under side should be pointing directly up in a vertical position from the steering wheel hub. "With the steering wheel in this position, the pitman arm should then be installed on the serrations so that it points straight forward." Since the steering wheel is on with a keystock as opposed to splines, it cannot be 'shifted' such that the spokes are in a different position.
  23. Spoke should point down so you can see the instrument cluster.
  24. Ian--Well I finally found the steering column bracket for my 34 Plymouth PE and it is mounted with the open end up--I marked it with an arrow when I took it off. Attached is a photo and, while it is a different style than that on your Dodge, one can assume that the installation was similar. Looks like yours is mounted correctly. They really don't fit well, particularly with the rubber seal in place. SMB
  25. Ok, I checked and cannot find a photo of an original installation of that collar. I just seem to recall removing it on my 34 (granted, 34 PE Plymouth, stateside) and it went up, not down. I think it was designed to hold that rubber piece in place, over the rubber as opposed to under it. It may be that your installation is different, don't know for sure. I am attaching a photo of the seat tracks, as found originals on my 34 PE, on an original floor board with original wood under the tracks, with the tracks in some sort of cad plate. Again, who knows. SMB