dibarlaw

Kevin : Thanks for the progress photos. I will also be getting a rough engine with the 1925-45. The blocking of the engine will be helpful for me for when storing it.

Kevin: I will second that thank you. It is nice to see what to expect when working on the 1925-45 when I get it home. When I drove it 2 years ago the starter seemed to engage correctly. The only time my started would not engage on my 1925-25 is when the one clutch disk disintegrated and ended up packing the starter gears.

Dan: I just checked the Master Parts Book. The 180057 # on the intake indicates that this is for a 1925-26 Standard. The exhaust # is 187708. The 1925 Master intake # is 181363 exhaust # is 187698 Several people are looking for Standard Parts on the Forum. So they should be interested. I know I will be needing a Master heat riser since the one on the car I am picking up soon has a cracked one.

PM sent.

50 MPH will be pushing it for extended drives. It will probably be happier at 45.

As always Oregon Desert comes thru again! This is a car I would have definitely been interested in. If it had showed up last month. And, not on the other side of the U.S.A. for a change! Here lies the problem... A while back an offer was made on a 1925-45, 30 miles away.... and they finally accepted....gulp! So now we will have a Standard and a Master to compare. Also need to find a garage to rent for my 1937. Picking it up next week contingent if it still runs. I drove it 2 years ago. Scary ride. Needs Brakes. Don't you love the "Earl Sheib Blue"! I see Cobalt Blue in it's future. And that is what they had painted it (underneath this light blue), then several years later the owner decided to brighten it up.

These references are great for identifying the component parts and how they relate to each other. I have the "Fisher Body Service manual" from 1931. Unfortunately, I have found no dimensional information an any wood component. There was a thread on "Our Restoration Projects" or "Me and my Buick" that had someone with literally hundreds of photos of how he has re-wooded his Buick of similar vintage. Most importantly what is the series and body style of your 1930 Buick? I had not seen this mentioned in any of your previous posts. That information will help narrow things down a bit.

Looks like it could use a spare tire.

Great news John! Now I can come for a visit and you can take me for a drive.

Neil: The torque ball cover does slide back. I had no problem with mine while replacing the seal.

Bob's had a white packing material and it fit fine with only about 1/2" to trim. I believe Restoration Supply stocks the same material.

Thanks to all who responded. I will use your suggestions.

I am purchasing a car locally and it still has the old purple PA. plate. My 1937 Buick received one when I bought it in 1987. I would like to have the car retitled in my name with the old plate. Can this be done? I remember going to the sale at Millersburg in 2010. After a car was sold then they would sell the Purple plate separately.

Have you tried the York Industrial Museum? Many people who know Pullman's may have information about the Bell. I am in Chambersburg. Please keep us informed.

jg_105: Sorry for the delay. I just remembered your request. So since I had my 37-41 out for a drive tonight I thought I would help. Here are some photos of the line routing as it comes from the frame to the fuel pump. The output line has some insulation to help with the vapor lock issue in hot weather. I do not run an electric pump.

I believe it was in the red field at $1,750. You are looking at the good side. Another was a row away at $2,400.

Frank: Good to meet wit you at Hershey. When I got home I looked for my drawing for the puller I machined. I still have not found it. I guess that means I have too much stuff! I would go with Larry Schramm's suggestion.

I noticed also that most of the nicer Buicks had SOLD written on them. Glad to see them going to hopefully Buick loving homes. Sorry for the blurry photo of the 1929 Phaeton with our Buick Buddy, Dave B. I loved the car but it looked like someone installed the top assembly up side down and reversed. Still showed very nicely and in the price range of under $34,000. Still too rich for my blood.

One of the photos I took in the rain today. The others in the Car corral. 1917-35 $16,500 OBO. 1910 ? model 16 at Hyman's, I believe priced at over $125K (sold) 1909 Model F, Price ???

At Hershey space C4M 44-45 I will have some sheet metal and trim for 1937 Specials. Headlight pods, L/R rear fenders, front fender, hood, L/R tail lights, wheels. hub caps as well as many misc.electrical and mechanical parts. These were leftovers from the restoration of a Phaeton Including a split rear window frame for convertibles and an original phaeton top boot in its oil cloth bag. Recently acquired and have not had time to price or evaluate much. So stop by and make your best deal. We leave tomorrow morning so I will not be on line again till after Hershey.

I was planning on driving the 1937 down from Chambersburg (around 90 miles one way). We did not do so since it was a bit of a stretch and we had some time constraints. We had attended 3 years ago and there was more like over 65 cars. This year I counted 35 total. I believe in 2013 there were more than 10 pre war cars including my 37. This time there were 3. I wanted to attend to observe and ask questions as to how they were doing with an All Buick Show. As a board member and director of Mason-Dixon chapter I wanted to see how things are working out. It seems that all the elements were in place for a successful show and the attendees and B.O.O.M staff are enthusiastic. The weather was a perfect, blue sky, sunny 70 degree day. So I did not understand the drop in attendance. I know we are constantly finding competition with other shows and cruse-in type of activities. The Mason Dixon club went to a inclusive show (Pontiac, Olds, Cadillac and GMC truck) at Freysinger Buick before I was director to keep the numbers up. It seemed to work well but we still noticed numbers falling off. This past June 4th show we opened it up to all makes and numbers improved. Several things that had to be done on our part. Reschedule our show date to be less effected by surrounding events.. GM nationals at Carlisle. AACA museum events. All in our area. We rescheduled our (last Sunday of the month) meeting date to accommodate the B.O.O.M show as we have members from both clubs. Advertise in all the normal hobby publications and web venues. Our host Freysinger also sends out "blasts" to customers. The hardest thing I have had to deal with as director is the reluctance of the membership to bring their cars. If all the membership would bring their cars there would be over 50 for our group. We do understand the "Graying out of the membership". I myself do not relish bringing my car to our show since I have responsibilities with the running of the show and meeting attendees. My wife Joan is doing the same. So no one to field questions about the car. Still I try to have them there to maintain a presence to encourage others to bring theirs out.

A functioning hand throttle is truly a great tool. When one has stalled on a hill and must keep his foot on the brake pedal. Pull out all the way to re-engage the starter. My vacuum starter/accelerator switch works fine.

I have tried to explain the problems with getting it back to correct and the obvious issues but he seems to be stuck on a price. His price in Hemmings was $32,500. As was the same with the one I looked at it Belle Vernon, the only inquiries were from brokers who wanted to list the car for a fee. In both cases I was the only one to actually come and look at the car. He said the top was in bad shape but would not agree to raise it so we could check. The dash had a later Delco switch unit cut in even though there were no electric lights. Probably at one time it did since it has the mounted period aftermarket generator. He said the magneto was not functioning.

Wow John! Now I can understand what I will be going thru on my 1925. I have the "Buick Technical Tips" Book. Copyright 1993. The compilation of articles sent into the Bugle. On page 90 Frank Bergoyne. BCA#5721 sent in an article about his "1925-25 Piston swap tip" and the Jeep pistons. Also about replacing the valves with ones from a IHC Farmall model H. On page 91 of the same book there are articles on "1928 Standard 6 exhaust valves", Submitted by Bill ColsonBCA # 1928 and one on "1928-1931 Piston Slap and Offset Wrist Pins". Submitted by Al Barany BCA # 37 Reprinted from "RAMCO Motor overhaul Service Manual Bulletin #146". Long dissertation continued on pg. 92. I am to understand that the Buick Pistons of this period had the wrist pin bores offset to the centerline of the piston. I know many are switching to the aluminum Jeep pistons. What about this offset?

The 1913-31 we rode in had the cut out, as the owner used it during our ride. Love that roar! I had been working on some agreement with a gentleman in Michigan who has a 1913-31 for sale. When I went to look at it after the old car festival I took more photos. Some of the questions I asked told me that he did not know the car as well as I had hoped. I crawled under and found this exhaust. He was not aware that it originally had a cut out. Again, some issues and not running at this time. I thought I could of least heard it run.