c49er

The marks are there-very lightly stamped on the 1" wide damper. Use sand paper and keep sanding till you find the marks!

Your wheel clyinders might still have the longer OE W/cyl pins that can be an issue with oversize shoe linings-replace with std shoes or get the shoes arc'ed. Any commercial shoe reliner can do it cheap. I have run into this on these lockheeds many many times...I cut the shoes down on my arcing machine which is good for proper shoe to drum fit and a high firm pedal.

Seems like you have a problem with the solenoid-common with those.

Joe, To "Hot Wire" quickly test the starter... There are two small wire stud terminals at the top of the solenoid. Leave all the wires all attached. Ground the top inner terminal to the block. Using another jumper wire that is a hot 6 volt jumper touch it to the top outer terminal.....or connect that wire to the lower hot battery cable on the starter solenoid.......the starter should imediately start cranking over. Do this and see what happens. The relay click is the M5 trans relay- thats normal to click as the key is turned on as you probably know. Good cables and starter ground is really important too.

Check the black ground wire on the wiper motor. Had the same issue a month ago on a 50 Chrysler T&C. Weak ground was cause of the wiper not working.

Model # of the 1950 Eight cylinder Chryslers I own.

Reviving this old thread... What is this one worth running with a rebuilt engine, good interior, no rust, decent chrome, needing wood work-some of it already properly done?

Heres a torque chart showing your 5/16 X 18 theaded bolts used to hold the cam gear to the cam.,.,

Have fun with that car Joe! Get her runnin and enjoy as is! I too just bought another one too- a 1950 T&C Newport Hardtop "8". Now up to four Chrysler wooden cars.

The Chrysler eight bell housing is different from the smaller Dodge 3 speed FD housing and have different transmission bolt patterns too. You could do a swap but quite a bit of work..

A 3.54 ratio rear pumkin out of a 1946-48 chrysler Windsor six will be a direct bolt in if you must! I'd leave the stock rear end in it. I don't have a problem with any of my 1950 chryslers.

The 1949-50 NewYorker/Saratoga's are a 3.54-1 ratio. The 1946-48 NewYorker/Saratoga are 3.36-1 ratio. Not an easy swap at all. The eight differential is a bigger bolt pattern. The U-joint yoke is wider too. Tall tires help.

Eights are wider.

I've also used shopping carts and bread cart base dollies.

The rear rail bar looks same as the two sides and just fits up between the bell housing and engine. There also is a curved heavy strap bar 3/4's of the way to the front of the dollie. Curved to fit the pan.

You will never forget when one goes over!

You need a quality engine stand to mount a straight eight on. They are too long for the cheapo horror freight stands and could fall over. I had to modify a OTC heavy duty engine stand just for a chrysler 385 CI straight eight a couple months ago....

I welded up very tight fit low profile engine dollies for my chrysler straight eights/ truck 331/413 sixes and the smaller 218/230 ply/dodge engines... They take up no more floor space than just the size of the engine and the engine pan rails rest on the dollie. Extremely stable .

I'd be afraid to do anything with a 100 grand PW. Rich mans trading arena,

Great!

Why not just buy this....http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valvoline-Motor-Oil-Valvoline-VR1-Racing-Mineral-50W-1-Quart-Each-/390930601354?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b0547958a&vxp=mtr

Be a strong man that knows how to use a quality 3 leg drum puller (Snap on ect) and a big hammer.No pansy asses need be here! Use a 5 lb hammer and bang like a big man on that dog bone on the end of the puller or use a high output 1/2" impact or bigger and the drums will come of pretty darn easy! Just leave the nut on the end of the axle so the drum won't land in your lap! A proper shop manual is good reading to do this type of brake job right right.

Center plane brakes... Ya gotta inspect them. Better safe than sorry.

I told him he was stupid to let Chrysler have the S10 convertible. So...It went to a guy in Texas who is now restoring it. Hopefully it will stay here in the states as rare as it is. He sold the Cord approx 3 years ago.

Joe.. The engine# is stamped on the frame side rail behind the LR tire on the kick up arch of the frame.. Clean /sand it well and you will see it. Bob