c49er

On some models of 1950 chryslers... mainly the upper line cars the front map lights are controlled by the front A-pillar door switches and also the "PANEL" dash dimmer control switch. Turning it CCW from straight up will turn on the front lower compartment map lights on 4 doors if the car has this type of switch.

Hemi's power plants are not as heavy as the flat head eights I bet. Seems that at least after R&Ring many of each engine over the years.

Post #24 shows the ammco arcing machine. I do MoPar shoes all the time for my customers. Fast accurate and easy.

So a C39/C49 engine complete with the Fluid drive coupling, complete bell housing top/ bottom, Intake and exhaust manifolds, and water pump would weigh in at approx 750lbs? Thanks for weighing all the flathead parts Dave! Bob

How's the wood?

And... Always use the hand brake when parking. Otherwise you might see your car disappear!

I was going to say maybe Rusty would pipe up on this subject but I thought you had answered this one enough times so I didn't;)!!! Bob

Extremely stable. I would say near impossible to tip one over unless in dirt! Just made another one this week end for my newly aquired chrysler 265 engine-had to shim the engine up because of deep pan and smaller wheels....

Some more reading...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_Drive

Your car only has shifter positions of low and high ranges only. 2 speeds in each range. Search "Chrysler Hydraulically Operated Transmission." You will learn how this fluid drive coupling and transmission work. Shifter Up is low range and shifter pulled down is high--normal driving range. Reverse is pull to you and up.

There is no separate ground wire for the chrysler generator. Just clean metal of the generator casing to block. The top left solenoid wire terminal is actually grounded through the GENERATOR brushes and armature when starting the engine. Once the engine starts and the generator starts charging the ARM terminal has 6V. voltage and will prevent the solenoid from operating when the generator is charging. All this to prevent the starter from engaging the flywheel ect. while the engine is running. Bob

Here ya go.... had to dig one up and clean it off!

The marks are there-very lightly stamped on the 1" wide damper. Use sand paper and keep sanding till you find the marks!

Your wheel clyinders might still have the longer OE W/cyl pins that can be an issue with oversize shoe linings-replace with std shoes or get the shoes arc'ed. Any commercial shoe reliner can do it cheap. I have run into this on these lockheeds many many times...I cut the shoes down on my arcing machine which is good for proper shoe to drum fit and a high firm pedal.

Seems like you have a problem with the solenoid-common with those.

Joe, To "Hot Wire" quickly test the starter... There are two small wire stud terminals at the top of the solenoid. Leave all the wires all attached. Ground the top inner terminal to the block. Using another jumper wire that is a hot 6 volt jumper touch it to the top outer terminal.....or connect that wire to the lower hot battery cable on the starter solenoid.......the starter should imediately start cranking over. Do this and see what happens. The relay click is the M5 trans relay- thats normal to click as the key is turned on as you probably know. Good cables and starter ground is really important too.

Check the black ground wire on the wiper motor. Had the same issue a month ago on a 50 Chrysler T&C. Weak ground was cause of the wiper not working.

Model # of the 1950 Eight cylinder Chryslers I own.

Reviving this old thread... What is this one worth running with a rebuilt engine, good interior, no rust, decent chrome, needing wood work-some of it already properly done?

Heres a torque chart showing your 5/16 X 18 theaded bolts used to hold the cam gear to the cam.,.,

Have fun with that car Joe! Get her runnin and enjoy as is! I too just bought another one too- a 1950 T&C Newport Hardtop "8". Now up to four Chrysler wooden cars.

The Chrysler eight bell housing is different from the smaller Dodge 3 speed FD housing and have different transmission bolt patterns too. You could do a swap but quite a bit of work..

A 3.54 ratio rear pumkin out of a 1946-48 chrysler Windsor six will be a direct bolt in if you must! I'd leave the stock rear end in it. I don't have a problem with any of my 1950 chryslers.

The 1949-50 NewYorker/Saratoga's are a 3.54-1 ratio. The 1946-48 NewYorker/Saratoga are 3.36-1 ratio. Not an easy swap at all. The eight differential is a bigger bolt pattern. The U-joint yoke is wider too. Tall tires help.

Eights are wider.