c49er

I didn't know Plymouth made "Town and Country radiators". Amazing what I learn here. Ought to be worth at least $5000.00 but... I'd pay $75.00 + $25.00 shipping

As Pete O says.....A special blade bit and a press was used back in the day to R&R these very tight slotted pole shoe screws.. Try as above... that should work.

You better sign up for a day or two off work if you plan to drain and refill the FD coupling. Slow and teious to say the least. I have never changed the fluid in any of my FD cars... some I've had 40 years and all work just fine. I have seen them sometimes leak a bit after a fluid change. I'd be careful.

What is this????

Now that looks like a professional built engine cradle/dolly! Excellent job!

That dust seal should never need replacement. You cannot just go out and buy one. It is rivited to the lower bell housing cover. The oil pan does not need to be removed to remove the lower bell housing cover.

Thats one of the most costly old Mopar heater valves.... and very hard to find. Start with ebay.

Get the shoes arced to match the drums. Cannnot tell you where though. I do my own on an ammco shoe arc machine. I have done it many many times because of the same problem and to make sure the shoe arc matches the drum for a good high firm pedal. Also your piston pins might be the original long pins or mis matched pins and pistons that will cause your problem with the thicker type linings. Bob

That engine is out of a truck similar to this .....

Beautiful original interior! I don't think it's wool though.

I have read of the chevy PG cars not stopping correctly. I also agree some modern day linings do not work well on some cars. I remember when abestos was mostly eliminated back in the late 80's and the heavy trucks would not stop well out asbestos type shoes. Correct matched shoe fit to drum and lining type is critical for prpoer operating brakes on the old cars. I don't know the answer to proper lining type as the make up of linings keep changing because of the EPA.

Now we will never know what the secret PM message has to do with the possible PG brake job. Inquiring minds really want to know!

Excellent photoshop work!

Thats a felt dust seal... half moon shaped to keep dirt and road spray from getting into the clutch and Fluid Drive coupling. The crankshaft rear main seal is directly above this dust seal and if it leaks it will soak this felt seal and drip down and onto the gound if the rear main seal leaks excessively. A drip or two on an old engine is to be expected. There is no torque converter in your car.

450- max of 475 RPM. High Idle delays upshifts.

It will be a very very long slow refilling of the fluid drive coupling as the filler hole is about 3/8's of an inch in diameter. Leave a half day for that!

Well it does fit a 71 valiant!

Great price!

Don't use spark plug washers with the Evr-dry kit !

Yep... Compression is a #1 requirement for a good running engine. All six cylinders at 100-110lbs will let the engine run well. 125lbs/130lbs is as good as it will get. Read a shop manual on compression tests for a full understanding.

The DeSoto and Chrysler heat riser package shown above is MoPar #1316267. It also sounds like the car has a severe hesitation from a dead stop? Check the spark plug and point gaps. Accelerator pump leather cup might be shrunk and or the accelerator jet plugged up too. Bob

Sorry I didn't even look at the picture of your sender. :confused: That is the wrong sending unit for your C38 chrysler shown in your picture though. . It will not show a #1 and 2. It looks to be for a 30's car. Pics of the right one....

It's very rare to see a 1946-8 chrysler with out a front center guard. Never seen one with a rear center guard.

Your gas tank sender has a #1 and #2 stamped on it. Clean it well with a brush to see these numbers. Two wires connect to your gas tank sender with the two screws. The two wires at the tank unit were originally medium blue-that wire connects to screw terminal #1. The other wire remaining was originally yellow and black..it connects to #2 terminal at the sender. Your wires are old and discolored but by carefully scraping the cloth wire covering you will be able to see enough of the original colors to re-attach the wires properly. The small braided ground wire is attached to the spark plug wire loom to head stud. It's a transmission wire harniss grounding/radio suppression wire/strap. Your heat riser is missing parts too. The counter weight is missing as is spring and damper pads. Looks like the shaft bushings are worn and leaking exhaust gases also will cause exhaust noise. Bob