c49er

I've also used shopping carts and bread cart base dollies.

The rear rail bar looks same as the two sides and just fits up between the bell housing and engine. There also is a curved heavy strap bar 3/4's of the way to the front of the dollie. Curved to fit the pan.

You will never forget when one goes over!

You need a quality engine stand to mount a straight eight on. They are too long for the cheapo horror freight stands and could fall over. I had to modify a OTC heavy duty engine stand just for a chrysler 385 CI straight eight a couple months ago....

I welded up very tight fit low profile engine dollies for my chrysler straight eights/ truck 331/413 sixes and the smaller 218/230 ply/dodge engines... They take up no more floor space than just the size of the engine and the engine pan rails rest on the dollie. Extremely stable .

I'd be afraid to do anything with a 100 grand PW. Rich mans trading arena,

Great!

Why not just buy this....http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valvoline-Motor-Oil-Valvoline-VR1-Racing-Mineral-50W-1-Quart-Each-/390930601354?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b0547958a&vxp=mtr

Be a strong man that knows how to use a quality 3 leg drum puller (Snap on ect) and a big hammer.No pansy asses need be here! Use a 5 lb hammer and bang like a big man on that dog bone on the end of the puller or use a high output 1/2" impact or bigger and the drums will come of pretty darn easy! Just leave the nut on the end of the axle so the drum won't land in your lap! A proper shop manual is good reading to do this type of brake job right right.

Center plane brakes... Ya gotta inspect them. Better safe than sorry.

I told him he was stupid to let Chrysler have the S10 convertible. So...It went to a guy in Texas who is now restoring it. Hopefully it will stay here in the states as rare as it is. He sold the Cord approx 3 years ago.

Joe.. The engine# is stamped on the frame side rail behind the LR tire on the kick up arch of the frame.. Clean /sand it well and you will see it. Bob

Maybe I can.. I will have to go through my parts boxes to find it-over the weekend. Part# 1141460 I do not have this 1949 0nly horn ring retainer #1141460 but Mitchell Motor Parts Does...http://www.mmpar.com/StoreVBVS2011/PS.aspx?CategoryID=16&selection=1 Bob

It's the black ground wire for the small defroster motor. It connects to the wiper motor housing for ground.

"Perfect-Fit MacDonald" Upholstry supplier

Ray is probably sad you sold it. He sold his 42 S10 convertible too recently.

I'll take a picture of one of my 1950 chrysler cars horn button and parts in it. Hopefully this will show the correct parts as these pics are of a 50 chrysler. The 49 has a dip in the turn signal lever and a different T/Sig housing--- but the horn operating parts might be the same.

Check your other posts.

Tell me exactly what numbered insulator piece you need . I most likely have it for your C45 windsor. Bob

It takes 10 minutes to put a battery in it and try to crank it.

A lot of wasted effort here. That front crank bolt if found and installed is not the way to turn an unknown old engine over. Leverage is wrong. Put a good battery in it . See if it cranks over. A quick turn of the IGN key will tell you in 2 seconds if the engine is free. Done with it.

New bearings might be chinese and fail prematurely! Quickly cleanly clean the NOS ones and be done with it! Check with plastigage too.

Jack, You got me right back on course as to what happened to Jim's cars. He moved to Tri--Cities last year and I just saw him at JC Auto Restorations in Lynnwood a couple weeks ago! Yep... the emails are... well...we know how he feels about things!!!! Bob

Jack, Did you aquire the maroon Royal 3 pass coupe project from up here in the Seattle area? I have a 46 NY 3 cpe myself.

^^^^^ Yep, Arc the shoes to fit each drum. Leave the anchor arrows at the stock factory position. Adjust the shoe cams till the shoes just touch the drums. Drive it 1000 miles... adjust shoe cams if needed. Drive it. The pedal quickly will get very firm and solid and you will have excellent brakes. Have done these brakes time and time again. I do have all the miller and ammco tools but don't use them that much as the way I described works. Have a bit of patience for the first 1-3,000 wear in miles. Easy-done!!