c49er

If it's this style of relay common to 1951-54 Chrysler you will find if you do locate one it will be very very pricey. Not available at the local parts store. Normally all that is needed is to open one up and clean the contact points and save yourself two to four hundred dollars!!!! Mitchells had one and I think it was $395.00.

You will have to probably pull the whole dash as there are screws along the top of the dash under the windsheild glass trim moulding that will prevent the dash from tilting out even after removing the two lower 1/2" bolts.

Here are the two styles of pullers used to pull steering wheels that don't have threaded holes on the top of the hub to use a regular steering wheel puller with. These two pullers-one the clam shell type is the factory Miller tool used by chrysler to pull the airflow wheel. Typical of MoPar cars and trucks of the 30's and 40's. These pullers are very hard to come by unless you have time and money to find one. Bob

Pull the four vertical intake to exhaust bolts out. You then use a short 9/16" 3/8" drive socket and a wobbly extension or even a regular extension and only half engage the extension into the socket-just enough to start trning the brass nuts-lubeb of course.. I have also just used a snap-on 9/16" swivel socket that works too. Have done many 323's. The really hard part is pulling the manifolds off the block studs if the manifold is rusted to them. As mentioned don't force em!

I prefer to adjust them hot. It's the rear ones (Cylinders 5 and 6) that are the "hot" ones you can burn the hairs off your wrists! The exhaust headrer dumps out in front of those cylinders valves.

1951-52 Ply/Dodge DeSoto and Chrysler... Model 503 Heater defroster rotary control cable.

I use DOT 5 in all my cars. No problems. I will never use DOT 3 or 4 in my old cars that sit a lot.

Looks like a nice C38 woodie sedan! I'll be working on one in a couple weeks.

Why don't you believe the 4.3 ratio stamped on the housing? The picture I have posted is out of a MoPar parts list showing where the ratio # is stamped on the differential housing.

Both body styles of the Town and Country cars only came factory equipped with Fluid Drive (fluid coupling-not a torque converter) and the M5 hydraulically operated transmission. Are you sure it has a 3 speed transmission? I kinda doubt it. The Chrysler M5 transmission has reverse-pull lever back towards you and then up. Then there are two forward driving ranges-low range-to use...clutch pushed in then just push the shift lever straight up..let the clutch out accelerate to 7-10MPH let up on the gas and the trans will shift into 2nd gear of the low range. It's normally only used for going up real steep hills. Then there is the high range. 90% of the driving is done in high range. To use it..push the clutch in then pull the shift lever straight down all the way. Let the clutch out accelerate to say 15-20MPH let off on the gas and the transmission will automatically upshift into high or 4th gear. Drive to your hearts content. This is a very brief explanation of how to use the chrysler M5 transmission and fluid Drive. Search "allpar" and a very detailed explaination of this transmission is given.

Good luck pinning down brake shoe lining thickness now days for old cars. You can try buying more shoes till some fit. You might get lucky. I'd get em cut down a few thousandths. Be done with it.

I have to make a correction on the left side dual wire type map and emergency brake light bulb requirement. The shop manual calls for a #1110 6 volt bulb. 21/21 CP even bayonet style. Good luck ever finding one of those now days cheap. One of my cars has a #1002 in it and it works fine and the other car has a 1154 with one index tab filed off! It works fine too. I have to leave it up to you to figure yours out if you even have the dual left side map and brake light. All this might not apply at all as for your front map lights staying on. A door switch is grounded as mentioned, the yellow wire grounded or someone re-wired the map light system wrong at some time. Get a factory shop manual too-that would be a good thing to have.

The core plugs are 1-5/8" in diameter. I myself would install brass plugs.

Thanks Rusty for the reply. I do respect what you have to say and do like to read your comments that are most always 100% right on! Better than mine for sure! Thanks! Bob PS ...hope we have helped the OP'er too !

1946-48 chrysler----It just pulls off. Have taken many off. Use your finger nails to get under it and pull it off.

Rusty you need to be a bit more tame on these boards. You tend to be way too tense and your way or the freeway. A bit of calmness and be more friendly sure would be nice . This is just a online board. You are not at work showing your perfection on the job. I know chrysler corp designed things mostly right-NOT all things. Can't we all just get along!! Bob

Just who is trying to change modify, improve the factory engineered design of a car? Better one or two thousands loose on an exhaust than .002" tight IMO. I have no issue with my cars and trucks setting the exhaust .001" or .002" wider as I know it will never cause any issue and has not with any of my 1946-54 Mopar flatheads. Most of which I have owned for over 40 Years and driven many miles. I have never had to redo a flathead valve job-ever and have done at least a hundred of them over the years on the flatheads. The 218/230 engines are factory set at either .008 or .010 depending on year for the 218's. Back to the OP he asked a simple question lets help him out about his noise issue.. Bob

The dodge diesel should be close to any gas 281-413 six- about 1150lbs for the powerplant.

My info as stated above was for 1941 and up Mopars. Always follow manufactures specifications if you are not sure of what you are doing..

The 1951-53 331 hemi (extended bell housing) engine dry weight is 710LBS and the complete powerplant assembly...FD/bell Housing and M6 trans is 960 lbs dry. This out of the 1951-2 Chrysler shop manual.

.008" intake and .010" on exhaust. I set then .010" for both exhaust and intake3 unless sodium valve truck flatheads. The above for most all 6 and 8 inline Mopar engines 1941-52. Worn valve guides can cause tappet/valve noise.

Circuit breakers 30 and 8 amp are located on steering column brace bracket next to the radio. See Pic. Also pics of the 30 and 8 amp CB'rs. Both look the same but rating stamped on case.

As rusty and you probably know the 8 amp 3/4" X 1" little metal breaker box with two stud terminals needs power to it to feed the wiper motor and the back up lights. It gets power from the accessory terminal of the ignition switch. If it has power to it then an ohm test needs to be done to check the 8 amp breaker. I have never seen one burn out.

OK...Yes Time to take a break from it! One note... the correct type/style and # of dome and map light bulbs need to be installed properly-the one in the roof and one on the left and right sides of dash. The drivers side Map/E-brake warning light should be a dual wire light bulb socket and uses a #1158 bulb that needs to be indexed correctly so as to make the higher candle powewarning light blink when the key and the hand brake is pulled on. The right side single wire map light requires the 1129 six volt bulb. Use a 1158 six volt bulb for the left side map and e-brake warning light if the socket is a two wire socket. This is a common option on 1950 chryslers. Bob