sambarn

they repeat what others said about the seventies UK vehicle production when wavering production quality due to incessant striking led to lots of cars that suffered from electrical problems and believe that the Lucas of the 70s/80s was the same industry leader that suplied a great number of european models with quality electrical parts from the turn of the century to today. Fine with me. Helps keep the prices down on fine small cars from the other side of the pond.

Wayne, I appreciate your desire to have only full time proffessional sellers that have no interest in shopping or can afford to pay employees to watch their spot while they shop. Since Red field has existed, we have had a spot there. We and several of our friends share a couple of tables and put out garage finds from a lifetime of hobbying. This year, I sold an elephant skin Packard trunk from the thirties with matching luggage, A 64 Mercedes 300 SL grille, a set of early Karmann Ghia wheels, two dozen toys and a 6x4 Royal Ctrown sign from the thirties. All on a table with a can while I shopped. Our friends did very similar business. Everyone I spoke too or met at my spot to sell the bigger items were quite excited about my bargain basement prices and availability of unfindable parts and pieces. We are not the detriment to Hershey - We ARE Hershey. We are where the good stuff is found and to be honest, the only kind of vendor I enjoy shopping at. This is historically an amateur event known as a SWAP meet, not a mobile mall for otherwise mail order pros. As far as those detriments, they are also the people working the Library and Museum tents, the members of committees for the National board and the volunteers who come from outside the Hershey Region that come from outside of the area and the cadre of judges who have come to judge the largest car show of its' kind and bring their swap materials to contribute to the event as best as they are able. We are not a detriment to Hershey. We ARE Hershey. If you only want to deal with pros and not see old friends or volunteer to better the hobby -there is always Carlisle. Oh and we spend a lot. Other vendors appreciate that.

According to tuesday's weather maybe a bucket set outside would work...

Count me in! Anyone can bolt store bought parts on to crate motors. (yawn) Keep them stock or find your own club..

Minuteman, That's great news! I've followed the series of threads that you have created, each titled the same and could we keep them on just one thread instedad of making new ones? If we had I would know if you had dealt with the vacuum fuel system before. It sounds like it's full of junk. Do you have a sediment bowl between the fuel tank and the csrb? Have you opened the tap at the bottom of the tank? Ive had dusty rust ooze out like jelly before! Is your gas tank clean? any debris or water will be on the bottom of the tank. It sounds exactly like the flow of the tank is limited by crud build up and that it's flow cannot keep up with the flow of the carb needs. Adding a 6 volt pump creates a lot of other issues with overpressure, voltage flow, noise and loss of cool factor. I bet The Vacuum tank will work fine if its cleaned out.

Dwight, I have to agree with Duck - you want better control than just on with the ignition. You say you want it as an auxillary pump so I assume you have a stock - early mechanical fuel pump with a traditionally low pressure and slow pump rate that probably makes the car slow to start and you want to improve that. I have used a 6V pump set up paralell to a section of the fuel line and switched to a toggle switch and through the ignition so only when I flip the switch AND the ignition is on will it run. I do this to prime the carb and fuel line before starting, The car starts nearly every time on the first turn and I then shut off the switch. Its also my diagnostic tool for gas in the tank. When It all gets quiet, I flip the switch and the tone of the pump lets me know if there's gas. Also If I'm working on the car and need the ignition on for any length of time, the pump doesn't have to run and I don't have to worry about over pressuring the stock low pressure float and needle valve and dumping gas all over the ground (oh the joys of updraft!) I have had poor experience with adjustable pressure regulators. They don't seem to like the abuse of sporadic use and long periods of down time and they always fail by giving too much pressure, overflowing the carb just about the time the exhaust got hot enough to vaporize the fuel as it poured on top of it. Good times. Hope this helps -Sam

trimacar, thats the only pic I have on the computer of the bstting. It is thin, I doubled it up for the vinyl roof underlayment. Actually came from a JoAnn fabric so we are probably using the same stuff.

Looks like 1911/12 Hudson Model 33. I'd be interested if just for spares for my "33" or to help other members with theirs. I can't give you a "value" market wise but would gladly pay what a reasonable amount for it. sam- 205-482-0165

Hey Bud, welcome aboard!. The Buick guys in the prewar Buick forum (go to the "forum" section, scroll way down) are great about part numbers and their car knowledge. Some of them don't troll throough here so you may want to post there but Let us kno9w what happens there. And Roll Tide.... Also on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Departure-909035-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00DBONNF6

Trimacar -I found a nice heavy and dense batting at the local fabric shop. It's used for various sewing projects, comes in a 54' roll and was great for the underlayment for the Keller's vinyl roof. they also had an impressive array of burlap style fabrics. The batting is not real thick so it (1/4') requires multiple layers but that's my go to fabric for seat cover underlayment. '

It looks like a set of interior handles and lock switch for a 27 Marmon Model L. Could you post a pic of the front and back of the handles, the sides don't show enough.

Not even a thank you... Hmmph.

except for the radiator sticking out from the bottom of the frent. that's not aftermarket. I agree more with ford model a.

Momma, I am truly sorry for your loss. The value of a car is an oddly subjective thing. So much depends on options, model, history and desirability. Making a wild ass guess will only cause some issues later so... If you load pics on this site, these guys can tell you what your car is and has. They can also provide a ballpark figure as far as value but examining the market place through ebay and googling similar cars. This forum is also a good place to find buyers but you will need to know your price range first. Post some pics and let's see what we are talking about.

BugGreg - don't hold back!! let's see some of those period Royalle pics. When I was ten we went to Reno to see the museum and talked about the Royale all the way there(from Alabama). They are very special car and I'd read your book!!

HGRoot, There are many of us who love the history of cars, especially the forgotten one. I am quite interested in Indiana cars. I'm a bit of a Marmon fanatic but all Indiana cars are cool. I saw the car in Auburn this summer and would love to know more. Please feel free to overshare!!

Or the year after that, Wayne. You're right Sam! "8 days on the road, and I made it home last night!"

Link takes me to the photobucket home page asking for login info....

And new for '55 - The Ford Thurnderbird Organic Production System.

Irish, there is a remarkable amount of saved paperwork from the failed Tucker venture and there does seem to be a market for it. If you can or if it would help, you may realize a larger savings by donating the material to a museum. The Gilmore is a great place but I would suggest the AACA museum and library. The AACA museum opens the Tucker gallery next month and the library is the largest of its kind and great at what they do. As far as appraisal, there are a number of appraisers who will do it as a professional service or of course museums recieving donations will place a value but that can be a difficult thing to get right. Have you searched ebay completed listings? you might find a bit out about the prices of some items there.

And in the fall here in the heart of dixie all conversations will come 'round to our pigskin proclivities. I don't know how many random conversations with strangers I've had that ended up ending in the proclamation Roll Tide. I once was getting gas in a shady part of town and, after politely refusing the services being offered by one of the young women in the area, she replied "Roll Tide", smiled and walked away. Roll Tide indeed. Alabama: Where the titles are iffy, the cars rust slowly and the language is poetry in prose.

The guarantee that, by attempting whole heartedly to take part in Hershey WITH the AACA, Hershey Region and every single attendee, following the rules and thinking first of the people around yourself will help this fantastic event exist as it does today. Registering helps with Identification in the case of an accident or medical emergency, compilation of statistics related to carts on the field, reduction of personal liability to the cart driver (as Steve said: if it goes bad and there are lawyers involved, having registered your cart will at least minimize the negative picture that will be painted of you by opposing counsel) and most importantly to remove the stigma is immediately placed on anyone approaching in a cart without registration. That they are an intentional rulebreaker, that they are skirting registration and very likely are uninsured. That they are not there to participate with myself and others but are instead at the Hershey event to take from it all they can with no reciprocity without regard for damages or injury they may cause. I'm not saying that that is the truth about anyone in an unregistered cart but it is my perception and I am far less friendly and less charitable to those people. Statistics prove that the greater part of all hit and run accidents are by unregistered, uninsured motorists. It's inconceivable to me that this would not hold equally true for cart drivers. Ive been "Hit and Run" before as well as having my truck totalled by an uninsured motorist while sitting at a stoplight and am a little gunshy but I doubt anyone with a folding table full of glass, brass, nickel or chrome feels differently about the kind of cart driver that would refuse to register. And that knowledge gives me some "partial relief".

I can't promise an arrival time that works - I get off work at midnight on Sunday in Alabama, but Don is behind my space and I would gladly give a hand. Don had provided Headlights for SO many cars for SO many years. I hope someone can make this commitment.

So A quick word about Alabama titles. I have never heard of the 35 year rule and I got a title last year on a 77 motorcycle. So.. Alabama first began issuing titles in 1974. All vehicles prior to this date would never need a title, same for motorcycles. If this car was registered in Alabama, all that would be neccessary ( since it is prior to 1974) to legally purchase the vehicle is a handwritten bill of sale. (I once bought a 71 VW van and the owner wrote the bill of sale on the inside of ripped open cigarette pack. The teller didn't even blink as she handed me the tag.) Now here's where it gets sticky: In the late nineties a gentleman opened a business where in he would "buy" your car, create a valid Alabama registration and then "sell" your car back to you. This was Hollywood Title (named for the street they are on in Historic Homewood, an early suburb of Birmingham). His business was so successful that even cars that had shady histories were recieving new registrations and some problems occurred. The state realizing the problem could get out of hand, revised the rules requiring a physical inspection of the car by a DMV employee to verify numbers and the car must be registered by an Alabama resident with a vaild Drivers License and insurance. The cost of transport and length of time waiting has severely cut down on this practice. As far as the 35 year rule: at Thirty Five years old, cars qualify for the Historic Vehicle tag. Their are caveats and restrictions but it cost ten bucks to transfer, 25 to regiister and is good forever. I've never put a historic tag on a post '74/pre'79 vehicle before so I'd be interested to see what happens but I hope this helps clear the air on Alabama registrations. In closing: If the car is registered in Alabama and is being sold by the original registered owner, a handwritten bill of sale is all that is legally required to register the vehicle in any state. If it's a second hand bill of sale, I know of many people who have created documents that stated the sale of a vehicle from the original registered owner directly to the modern buyer, skipping the middle guy (guy who brought it to MN). This is not legal and extremely difficult to enforce so it's both bad and is some times the simplest method of Fixing paperwork. And a car does not need to be registered to be insured. Call Hagerty or Taylor, they'll take good care of you.

The Keller. One is for sale.... Only three left. 1948, unattractive, technical issues, great story. It's a home run.