sambarn

I saw that happen, my phone pinged, I opened it up saw the new price and it ended. Guess I got a great deal on mine.

I have to think from many of the posts that there is no Spell check on the forum system. Heck, I've even bean known too miss spell things.

It's a scam. Search threads for scam. We've alked aboutthis before.

There were lots of wild tire patterns available in the 20-30s. With the engine swap I'd have to say originality may not have been the first priority.

Delco 12 cylinder distributors. Also for twin fire sixes of the late twenties. They are disappearring, there are no options and they are desperately important for many great cars to keep on the road.

Dang it!! Keiser, you have one fine eye for cars... But that radiator emblem, although grainy and out focus makes me lean toward Buick...maybe Studebaker but obviously sometimes I miss things!!

Oh I wish but no.... The car I got was sold to allow garage space for the Speedster. The body is a fairlly well done replica from a coupe but that engine... I've never seen one of those. Really Cool! As far as the other Marmons for sale the Model 34 would be a great car. I wonder if it's sold?? The Model 68 in this thread I was pointed at and made a call. Really great guy with great car stories. I probably spent half an hour on the phone with him (Thank you Earl!!) but he wants 30K for a model 68 (small/flathead cousin of the Roosevelt and under 1000 bucks new) sedan and 22 for the parts car that he swears has a factory installed(??) Pontiac motor with a two piece head (??). I'm not sure the market for the 68s/Roosevelts supports that kind of price and I sure couldn't afford that. The Hemmings ad is a lovely car with ALL the right stuff but again, I'm not sure the market would support the asking price. I'd expect that car around 25. If it selld someone tell me - I'll need to call Hagerty about my Model Ls and up the coverage.

Holy Cow Terry, there's three car worth of ALL mechanical bits as well as a complete chassis w/tranny that I'll have to pick up later. By the way, have you seen this in the cut down coupe/speedster in the drive? A factory Stutz High Compression engine for factory approved racing. And so many other things. We were treated so well and really enjoyed the time. I look forward to getting back in that area with more free time!!

I go with 1919 Buick H-45 This is from the Lemay collection and is a well documented original. The convertible top doesn't match but... I also agree with the mid twenties period on the photo. The hairstyle is a giveaway. That style wasn't terribly popular until 21 or so. I think the top could have been replaced. That the windows are after market. It looks in great shape and, with the age of the car at the time the pic was taken, would be a little rough having been parked outside on the street for years. Just my guess.

Here she is in the state recovered. Only had time to unload and get back to work so More pics will come later. It was actually part of a two car deal one complete, one in pieces. The second car is also a Robbins Bodied Victoria coupe, but an E-75. It is the car in the Automoobile Quarterly fall '68 (I think) Marmon issue. It is on the page after our E-75 speedster pic. It was purchased from the Harrah collection, the engine was taken for a Locke Bodied four passenger Speedster that lives in N. California. Several following owners disassembled and bought parts to make it a GIANT stack of pieces. It took eight hours to load all the parts (there were five of us working). Having the pair is pretty amazing but there's a long way to go to put car #2 together.

So, I just bought the kissing cousin of this car, a victoria coupe, but what a good looking original car!! It looks really good and is still fairly cheap. 12K as of thursday morning, http://www.ebay.com/sch/flyingcrown-...1&_ipg=&_from=

So, I just bought the kissing cousin of this car, a victoria coupe, but what a good looking original car!! It looks really good and is still fairly cheap. 12K as of thursday morning, http://www.ebay.com/sch/flyingcrown-ranch/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

Al - There is one that has been for sale in the Marmon Club Newswletter for a while they are asking $1500. Is this something you're interestedin??

Some of my favorite car clubs are under 1000 members. The Marmon Club for example. The Stutz Club. The Buzzards Breath Touring Region. Great things come in small clubs. How big is the Peerless Club?

That would make it a "T" . Hmmm. All the pics I have found of Model T wheels are eight lug not five. Maybe a new post with the pic and any others- maybe a reverse, and a side would help. It would also be a good place to ask the taxi question. -Sam

Who ever thought we'd have so much fun from so little Ad!! My thanks to the seller.

Well It has a Ford script hub, five lugs and all the spokes are gone -which leads me to Artillery wheel. If it's not "A" by age and not T by number of lugs (5 not 8), What is it?

I'm not a ford guy but I think it's a '29-'31 Model A wood (artillery-style) wheel.

Dale, The Marmons are all rear wheel drive. The car you refer to is gray and is out of N.Carolina and it goes like stink! I cannever keep up with him and the orange 21 that you can find a lot of pics of. Great cars!!

West. you're probably right, my DPC 27 Marmon with older restoration and cracking Duco finish has an impressive collection of four first place wins... In the 1950 and older Stock class at the annual Montevallo Alabama Cars by the creek show. It has had as many as two competitors in the class.

So the odd part is that Erik's company , Bell Performance, is an ethanol gas additive provider. This comes off as a strange attempt at a sales pitch.

Just to be semantic, in the course of a show car's trail there are actually two AACA first place awards one could receive: First Junior and First Senior. #just got his first Duryea trophy!! Nine firsts could be achieved through an intricate process of selling, buying and reselling, but the 1st would have to be returned and the vehicle starting over each time leaving you with (in the end) one first Junior level acheivement (per ownership transitiion). A bit awkward but I'm sure we've all seen stranger.

Clarabelled, Where are you? Let's get you in a car and experience it. I'm SO glad you are taking the time to get it right!!! As far as starting the cars go, most cars of the mid twenties ran with the Stewart Warner style vacuum fuel tank. a system using vacuum from the engine to pull gas from the tank to a small cowl mounted tank. From there, gravity pulled it down to the carb. When a driver left a car for very long, he would open the side of the hood thatthe tank was on (depends on make) and rotate a small valve on the bottom of the tank, keeping the gas from flowing out of the carb while it sits. This means before starting in the morning, he would have to open the hood and open the valve. The gas in the small tank would let the car start to create vacuum and pull more gas up. Forgetting this would often leave the contets on a puddle under the car and the system would have to be primed, requiring a can of gas, funnel and wrenches to open the canister top (three different wrenches). As far as the car goes, I think you might want to consider Marmon. They had an excellent reputation for performance, longevity and style. Muscle and luxury combined. Come on down to Alabama and we'll roadtest a couple of twenties marques. BTW ALL of these cars require double clutching to compensate for straight cut gears and few had four wheel brakes. usually ust on the rear. Hope this helps. -Sam

And you Heavybond? What's your fave?

Pete, I have had some decent degree of luck working with non-hydraulic brake systems. There are a large number of questions and answers neccessary to diagnose the problem but let's look first at the basics. Being lever and cable actuated, The movement distance of the pedal is transferred into the movement distance of the wheel mounted brake assembly. What is 9-18" of pedal travel becomes 2"-3" of travel at the final cable attachment point, locate at the top of the arm that comes out through the back (inside) of the drum. This operates an eccentric (metal wedge shaped like an 0). as this eccentric turns it presses the brake shoes, they travle outwards anywhere from 1/100th - 1/4 of an inch. (0) This crudest possible computer diagram (yes the (0)) might help a bit. The parentheses are the shoes inside the brake drum. As the O rotates, it would exert pressure on the shoes, pushing them against the drum and slowing or stopping the rotation of the drum (movement of the car). For this to happen well, all the levers and rods must be properly aligned, positioned and functional. Here is where the pertinent questions begin: What is the car? (In proof reading myself I realize I got caught up in the response and didn't pay attention to the OP: he had already answered that.) Do you have a manual with diagrams of the braking system? DId these brakes function properly before you adjusted them? Has the car sat for a while? The first just because I'm curious and it would help to know if there are solid rods involved in the system (most I have encountered have rods that act with the lever system and are length adjustable). The second question, if yes, would give you a visual reference for tuning the system. Question three would be to determine if there is a part of the system that is no longer operating. These are almost all metal on metal situations and can easily rust solid after sitting a bit (question 4) or quite simply break or seize. If you can answer these I think we can help you out with this. - Sam