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  2. Thank you for all the quick responses. I will relay this info to the owner. Roger
  3. Unless that is a crack on the fuel filter extension, the carb does not look that bad. Have you attempted to disassemble it? As a general rule, NOT a good idea to swap an industrial carb to a car application, or vice versa, even if the displacement is identical. Not even a good idea to swap a Chevy passenger carb to a Pontiac or Buick of the same displacement; as the fuel curves are as different as night is to day. Note this is a general rule, and there can be exceptions. I would suggest a little patience, and an ultrasonic cleaner if you have access to one, on your existing carburetor. Jon.
  4. Actually, at least three made it to Europe, Abner Doble's personal coupe went to England and stayed. The pictured car is E12 and is shown bodied by Erdmann and Rossi for Henschel a big locomotive company in Germany. It was blown up during WWII. I forget the third car but it went to Germany also.
  5. Thanks for your help and checking on catb for me. My carb looks like to me to br 31/4; bu 1 7/8 niw i could be wrong with my measuring . I dont know the specs for th he carb. I bet jon would know. How much do you want for the carb if it will fit on my motor?
  6. Mr Van Arsdale or Mr Harris admiring his new truck from his office ?
  7. I guess you are right- it would be a shame to resto-mod it when all the parts are there. You can get most of the engine parts; they are not plentiful, but not impossible. The gasket rebuild kits and valves are readily available, as well as kits to rebuild the carbeurator, fuel, water, and oil pumps. Connecting rods, cam, and pistons will be "hit and miss". Rebuilding the clutch and tranny won't be that bad. We're from the same neck of the woods- we live in Cape Girardeau. That was indeed a good find regarding the Lasalle.
  8. I vote for letting the next guy do it. Unless the rest of the car is spotless I doubt that it is worth the effort when you consider the time involved. IMHO it is much more important to be sure the car is running well, stops well, etc. Lew Bachman 1957 Thunderbird Colonial White
  9. Not mine and I have no interest in it. Looks like a beauty. Anyone here?
  10. Before going on with the acme nuts I made two more holding fixtures, one in 3/8" and the other, which I can't finish because I don't have the square hole sleeve, for 5/16". Then I put a 1/4" HSS lathe blank in the holding fixture and ground the acme taper. The grinder was still set up from the big tool so I knew the angles were the same. I put the 3-jaw chuck in the 4-jaw and indicated a piece of 2" bar. That gets me very close to centering the 2" hex. Certainly close enough for a nut. Drilled out and bored to 1.140... The threading bit had to be cut down to about 1" because it has to pass through the hole. It went in a boring bar and I threaded the hole. I had a lot of trouble with this and for a time it looked as if I'd messed it up but I was taking such small cuts that I was able to get it working properly before I went too far. I stopped when the threading gauge went in. Then took the 3-jaw off and centered the gauge to use as a holding fixture to face off the rough side of the nut. The last step was to put the chamfers on. First one side then turn the nut around and do the other side. It now appears to be done but tomorrow I'll mail it to Ted (Christech) to take over to his neighbor and check that it fits the machine. It would be a real gamble to make more of before I find out if it really fits.
  11. Mr. Wright, How can you say that? The 1918's still had the open valve train. 1919 was the first year that everything was covered. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  12. Hi. I ran across a couple of old photographs and I was hoping one of the readers could help me ID the cars in 2 images. Thanks so much. The plate on the Johnson car read NJ - 1927 Gary, NJ
  13. They changed to 12V in 1956 so a 1945 - 55 model would be best. Newer engine will fit but you will need to use your old flywheel starter generator and coil.
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