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How many on here own a 1928 or 1929 Dodge Victory 6???


Guest Buick1908

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This is mine stamped on the right hand side around the spring hanger area. This is after the chassis was stripped of paint so Jack is correct they are stamped very lightly. 

I will take another picture today of the exact area so you can pin point it better. 

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Maybe you guys can show him a wide angle view so he can get a better understanding of where to look? Some folks (like me) need to be shown... guess that's why I'm from the show me state...😕

 

When helping guys with truck frame numbers or wheelbase I use something like this photo as an example to help point them in the right direction:

 

 

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 6/11/2019 at 4:51 PM, Bob Ferrero said:

I have a 1928 Dodge Victory 6 Deluxe Brougham 2 door sedan. I restored it fully, have had it for 48 years. Always in Colorado, no rust. Bought from original owner in 1971.

Bob Ferrero

Loveland , Co.

 

Hi Bob, welcome to the forum

 

Okay, now you know you can't tease us like that so how about you start a new thread on your Victory so others can learn from it. Would love to see what it looks like. 

 

Regards

Dave

 

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Once again, for Terry Spooner.  The number is on the RIGHT side of the frame. Near the front spring rear hanger. You are going to sand all the rust and years of crud away to read it. Use a flashlight at a severe angle to show up the shadows of the stamping. The numbers are 1/2-inch high.

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  • 3 months later...

I  have been looking through  this thread  and I have not seen a 1928 Senior 6. sedan. May be I should renew my glasses. Is the senior 6 a rare breed ? Mr. Myers told me parts for them are very hard to come by. I will try to post some of the unique components .

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  • 1 year later...

I'm in Australia.  Only had it for 2 years back in the 1950's   Never had a record of the chassis or engine numbers but it is the only one I've seen in any photos with a VICTORY SIX emblem across the radiator.  It had a space & clamp for a spare wheel in each front mudguard and a carrier on the back.   Right Hand Drive with Artillery wheels.

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18 hours ago, RichBad said:

The numbers were quite light so could easy get lost with rust.  They also put them on the top rail just above but that’s usually even more rusted.

I didn't know that they were on top as well, but I agree about them being quite light,

Keep diggin Terry, they should be there.

Right hand side facing forward, I can only see the one pic of that side in your pictures and cant see any of the work that I see in your close ups.

Mine is kind of high on the frame as you show and somewhere between that tab on top and the bracket thing on the outside bottom.

Maybe about where the jack stand is.

 

I see that 30panel shows that farm trailer illustration on the left side, but mine are on the right, just about where the rear of the tire might be.

 

After some comparing of these pictures it sure does look like you are looking in the right place as I can see that triangle of holes in both your pics and mine.

I hope you find the numbers.

 

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Here in Oregon (its been many years) I had jumped thru many hoops and got a state assigned VIN for a car I pulled out of a field.

That was about 40 years ago and I still have the car.

I never will put any money and not very much effort onto the car itself until I can prove that I indeed own it on paper.

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Hello there from Australia.   I am so envious of you guys.     What magnificent restorations.    Just getting away from Body Numbers for the moment.   One consequence of the Victory 6 going RH Drive was the fact that the all Metal Pedals were now on the same side as the Exhaust Pipe.   They got SO hot you could NOT drive bare footed if you wanted to.   

One good thing about having the accellerator pedal lower and in between the other two was that you could double de-clutch down into 2nd or First using your Left Foot on the Clutch and the toes or ball of your right foot on the brakes, while operating the accelerator with the right heel.   I got pretty good at it coming into a corner at speed, braking into the corner, clutch, shift to Neutral, clutch out, rev up , clutch to neutral and into the lower gear, brake off and accellerate away. .    Smooth with no grinding of gears.   I still practice sometimes on my 91/92 Diesel HiLux,,[ Toyota Tacoma to you ]

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi from SW Washington State.  Here's my 1928 4-passenger coupe.  It's a driver and looks pretty good from 20 feet, but the rocker panels are rusted through.  Hope to get them replaced sometime soon, but I have a couple other projects ahead of this one.

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11 hours ago, 32desoto said:

Hi from SW Washington State.  Here's my 1928 4-passenger coupe.  It's a driver and looks pretty good from 20 feet, but the rocker panels are rusted through.  Hope to get them replaced sometime soon, but I have a couple other projects ahead of this one.

Side view.jpg

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Did you get this one out of an airplane hanger south of Puyallup?

I looked at a green one up there a few years ago.

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9 hours ago, JACK M said:

 

Did you get this one out of an airplane hanger south of Puyallup?

I looked at a green one up there a few years ago.

I bought it from a guy in Toledo, WA, a couple of years ago, but it could be the same one.

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1 hour ago, NJ victory six said:

Hopefully someone give me an idea as to what this is worth. I appreciate any help! Thanks :)

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I take it this is in NJ?

If it were out west, (meaning west of the Rockies) I might take e look.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Does a 1928 Dodge Senior 4 door count in this group ? I have a 1928 in all original conditional but were quite inpoor shape with a rebuilt engine which were never fired. When I brought it home I  tried to fire it. but it had the incorrect carb, It has hydraulic brakes  I completely rebuilt all round. As I opened the driver's door one day , the door fell in inch lower than it was originally. The wood sill was eaten by something so I had to dismantle the the whole car. I had the body and frame acid stripped and neutralised.  Body is absolutely nice condition, no holes ,no welding needed and I am about 80 % on the way  to complete restoration.  It seems to be top of the line finish original  interior which were in tatters..  Mohair all arround and a Waltham clock  to boot. Wood steering wheel and horse hair padding. I am doing a complete ground up restoration 

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