Lift points for nailhead

Hey guys I'm going to be pulling the nailhead on my 55 special. I was wondering what the easiest place to place the chains. The intake is still on the engine and I am looking to leave it complete can I use some exhaust manifold bolts?? My trans is already disconnected so I am just going to be lifting the weight of the motor.

I remove the intake and use the 4 corner bolt holes...easiest to balance everything.

I don't disagree with you Tank but I really don't want to remove the intake. Do you think the exhaust manifold bolts will hold the weight. I can get grade 8 bolts.

I also use end intake locations, but with longer washered bolts for the chain and DO NOT remove the intake to do this-in fact I like the intake to back up the mounting locations on the heads-good luck! Dan Mpls. Mn.

I also use end intake locations, but with longer washered bolts for the chain and DO NOT remove the intake to do this-in fact I like the intake to back up the mounting locations on the heads-good luck! Dan Mpls. Mn.

I've only pulled mine once.

That's the way we pulled it.

I must not be understanding?? End intake locations? Do we have a picture of these? I'm sorry but I'm a little confused.

End intake locations?...same as 4 corner bolt holes. And no, I have not used the exhaust manifold bolt locations, but am sure it would be strong enough.

Wow ok now I feel like a complete dummy. Thanks tank for clearing that up.

On the nailhead I have used the manifold bolt holes on opposite corners.

I have two pairs of forged eye bolts and use two of the appropriate size. I attach to a length of chain with a slip pin clevis to make life easy. This set up works with just about anything. The nut is to adjust the eye bolt so it doesn't bottom. The forged bolts are stronger than a standard manifold bolt and add safety as well as prevent damage to the manifold bolt.

Bernie

Lots of ways to skin this cat................Bob

Lots of ways to skin this cat................Bob

Carefully is key

Another cat skinning idea...

I bought a bracket that bolts to the carb holes in the intake manifold. I wouldn't pick up the engine attached to the transmission this way, but it worked fine for me for the engine alone. I used the rearward hole in the bracket and the engine stayed level.

Ok guys the suggestions were much appreciated. The engine is out and on the stand.

I need to remove my 401 nailhead from my Riviera and found a video on YouTube from user 1964buickdotcom and I wonder if this is the bracket Buick 5563 is talking about.

It's kinda scary to hold 660+ pounds of weight from there

I used the same bracket to pull the 425 from my 64 Riviera, but I had pulled the transmission earlier.  If you're pulling the engine with the transmission still attached, you'll be adding just that much more weight.  Trying to get the engine at a good angle to come out is difficult without a leveling beam.  If you use a leveling beam, use the four corner intake manifold bolts.  Remember, the longer the beam on your hoist, the less weight it's recommended for. Get as close as you can. Remove the front bumper, grill, and radiator and core support if you can. Be safe.

Thank you Ed your comment help me a lot, because I will like to try getting the transmission out as well, I will get one of those leveling beams.

Your contribution to this forum makes a remarcable difference and it's always highly appreciated.

The carb location works well with grade 8 bolts.  I made my own from structural angle.  I was in a hurry and am a cheapskate.

I looked at the Body and Chassis Service Books and couldn't find instructions or diagrams for radiator core support removal, I have lights, grill, bumpers, radiator, all removed so far. Is there any discussion about this topic you guys can refer me to or diagrams, do I have to remove the fenders?

How do you intend to support the transmission after the engine is out? 

I pulled a 401 out of  65 Wildcat with the tranmission on the back of it with the carb plate mounted with grade 8 bolts and and the leveling beam that RivNut mentioned. The entire front clip was off the car which made leveling easy once the frame mounts were cleared. I recommend taping over the carb intake holes before installing the lift plate lessening the chance of stuff/things getting down the intake holes . 

18 hours ago, drhach said:

How do you intend to support the transmission after the engine is out? 

I tied the tail shaft with a small tie-down strap to the frame at the time of I installed the transmission. (Also can be done at the time of engine removal)  Then at the time of attachment to the engine I placed a jack under the bell housing to assist alignment to the engine when the engine was installed.