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1965 trunk cardboard and carpet


crowvet

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Hello, I am starting to redo my trunk. I bought a carpet kit with edged floor mat, mat for the spare tire area, and spare carpet for the wheel wheels. I also have the cardboard kit to match my interior. When I try to install the rear panel cardboard, it interferes with the bottom mat laying down properly near the trunk latch area. It also seems as if the rear cardboard just doesn't lay in or fit properly as well. If anyone has done this job, I would appreciate some pointers. 

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1 hour ago, crowvet said:

When I try to install the rear panel cardboard, it interferes with the bottom mat laying down properly near the trunk latch area

Not sure what was original, liner only? Maybe so because that rectangular accessory rubber mat with tri-shield appears popular.

So, an edged carpet mat would be thicker than the Liner.

 

After re-lining my trunk, I now prefer a carpeted mat with binding like yours. Be sure to post some images for us to see Daryl!

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13 hours ago, crowvet said:

Hello, I am starting to redo my trunk. I bought a carpet kit with edged floor mat, mat for the spare tire area, and spare carpet for the wheel wheels. I also have the cardboard kit to match my interior. When I try to install the rear panel cardboard, it interferes with the bottom mat laying down properly near the trunk latch area. It also seems as if the rear cardboard just doesn't lay in or fit properly as well. If anyone has done this job, I would appreciate some pointers. 

I purchased a trunk cardboard kit several years ago to install in my 1963. I wanted to (did) apply vinyl to my cardboard. Before I applied the vinyl I did a test fit of the pieces.  I had to do several test fits and trims on the side pieces and the trunk latch piece to get them to fit properly. You may have to do some trimming to get the fit you desire.

 

Bill

Edited by Riviera63 (see edit history)
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Lou Adzima used to supply these cardboard kits years ago:  they came covered in the factory style material used on the floor. 

I have matching fabric to redo the floor as it gets pretty beat up. By me.

Hopefully this post will garner some upholstery motivation for over the winter 

 

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Edited by gungeey (see edit history)
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4 hours ago, gungeey said:

Lou Adzima used to supply these cardboard kits years ago:  they came covered in the factory style material used on the floor. 

I purchased his kit in the 80s and installed it only a couple of years back.

Unrolling the liner, that foam backing started flaking off. Further, I bungled applying that liner over wheel wells and cut-outs at the bottom. Should've used a contour gauge for floor cut-outs.

 

Not doing original next time. A carpet kit is a better idea,

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Years ago I did the trunk in my 63 using a non-original style and color kit from Clark's Corvair. This consisted of edged carpet floor mat, cover for the kickup over the axle and the wheel wells. The cardboard kit was stock type but I went with a blue vinyl covering to match the carpet. I remember doing the carpet first then putting cardboard in with edges over the carpet and it was snug but all fit very nicely. Here are pics if they help.

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8 hours ago, gungeey said:

I have matching fabric to redo the floor as it gets pretty beat up.

That fabric with foam backing is what I have. But, being rolled-up for 35+ years didn.t do it much good

I believe Jenkins-interiors.com for original type materials.

More on this subject here:

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/401496-trunk-liner-for-1963-riviera/#comment-2564400

 

My OE Liner before cardboard completion and before water leak Yuck :(

image.png.d4dfdb4949815b012b90959f2053a9bc.png

 

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8 hours ago, TexRiv_63 said:

Years ago I did the trunk in my 63 using a non-original style and color kit from Clark's Corvair. This consisted of edged carpet floor mat, cover for the kickup over the axle and the wheel wells. The cardboard kit was stock type but I went with a blue vinyl covering to match the carpet. I remember doing the carpet first then putting cardboard in with edges over the carpet and it was snug but all fit very nicely. Here are pics if they help.

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That looks great, mine is similar, but the main floor carpet is shaped weird where it meets the rear cardboard. I am having to improvise.

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Very nice Daryl!

A carpet kit IS the way to go. I'd want bottom mat thick and easy to remove if water got into the trunk again.

I'll have to srutinize the rear edge on my re-do someday.

 

Questions:

Were your pieces precut, ready to drop in? Supplier? You mentioned edging, binding on all pieces? Trim plates at rear edge, your improvision? Bottom mat backing? Thick enough to prevent falling into trunk sheetmetal depresions?

 

Am I the only one struggling with the wheel well curvature? That and the cut-out on the bottom mat around those wheel wells turned-out awful for me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by XframeFX (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, XframeFX said:

Very nice Daryl!

A carpet kit IS the way to go. I'd want bottom mat thick and easy to remove if water got into the trunk again.

I'll have to srutinize the rear edge on my re-do someday.

 

Questions:

Were your pieces precut, ready to drop in? Supplier? You mentioned edging, binding on all pieces? Trim plates at rear edge, your improvision? Bottom mat backing? Thick enough to prevent falling into trunk sheetmetal depresions?

 

Am I the only one struggling with the wheel well curvature? That and the cut-out on the bottom mat around those wheel wells turned-out awful for me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

My lower mat was bordered all the way. But it was made to drop into the recessed portion of the trunk, leaving about 4 inches of ugly between the mat and the rear cardboard. I pulled it back and cut it to fit. The metal trim was how I tried to trim it out. I was originally going to lay down dynamat, but was tired of trimming cardboard pieces. The kit I bought about 6 years ago. It was either ACC carpet, or Clark’s. Also the cut outs around the wheel wells were not the same curvature from one side to the other. The thickness is the same as standard carpet, maybe slightly thicker. I will find out if it sinks into the recesses?

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42 minutes ago, crowvet said:

I will find out if it sinks into the recesses?

If you scroll up to my image in this post from Saturday, you'll see depressions into trunk floor.

Now, this is OE style liner from a roll, not carpet and has a sheet of Dynamat upside-down underneath. Good thing, Riviera left out in the rain for the first time in 30+ years and it got wet. Pulling out that flimsey wet liner with Dynamat attached, not pretty!

 

I did apply Dynamat over the axle hump. 

 

Will have to re-do with all pieces matching but want base to be HD thick and light weight material for wheelwells. No flimsey Liner next time.

If no kit, will use contour gauge for cutouts and they are not symetrical between left/right if I remember correctly.

How to cover wheelwells, I do not know without cutting ugly slits.

 

 

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22 minutes ago, XframeFX said:

If you scroll up to my image in this post from Saturday, you'll see depressions into trunk floor.

Now, this is OE style liner from a roll, not carpet and has a sheet of Dynamat upside-down underneath. Good thing, Riviera left out in the rain for the first time in 30+ years and it got wet. Pulling out that flimsey wet liner with Dynamat attached, not pretty!

 

I did apply Dynamat over the axle hump. 

 

Will have to re-do with all pieces matching but want base to be HD thick and light weight material for wheelwells. No flimsey Liner next time.

If no kit, will use contour gauge for cutouts and they are not symetrical between left/right if I remember correctly.

How to cover wheelwells, I do not know without cutting ugly slits.

 

 

I made the ugly slits at the top of the wheel well. The cardboard hinge covers help hold it down.

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39 minutes ago, crowvet said:

I made the ugly slits at the top of the wheel well. The cardboard hinge covers help hold it down.

But you can hide ugly slits within carpet pile. Not with the Liner, it shows.

 

Re-reading this post, I see Chris used a CARS cardboard kit. Didn't catch it before typed as cars. Until now, unaware of such a kit. Will check it out.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Edited by XframeFX (see edit history)
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I used the trunk lining kit from CARS, Inc. which I purchased 9 years ago. At that time I went with this kit because it was substantially cheaper than the kit from Clark's Corvair. It was also cheap enough that if it did need to be replaced it was not a big deal. In fact it has only gone up $10.00 in price since then. It was a 5 piece kit that included the spare tire cover. The main piece that lays on the trunk floor has a hard fiber board backing to prevent the indentations from the trunk floor showing through. I am very happy with it. It fits well and I don't remember having any trouble with the pieces that go on the wheel wells. Part number: TM65R

 

There was no way I was going to be able to get the old trunk liner off. To prevent any bleed through or staining from the old liner I covered it with a thin rubber membrane that I purchased on e-bay. 

 

For the cardboard kit I just purchased a cheap one on e-bay and covered it with vinyl. I wanted to cover it with vinyl to prevent it from getting beat up and easy to clean. Instead of grey I went with a tan to more closely match the trunk lining. If you should decide to cover the cardboard with vinyl make sure you test fit it in your trunk before you apply the vinyl. I had to do several test fits and trims before applying the vinyl. To apply the vinyl to the cardboard I was advised by my upholstery guy to use heat activated contact cement. 

 

Bill

 

 

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Edited by Riviera63 (see edit history)
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10 hours ago, Riviera63 said:

I went with this kit because it was substantially cheaper than the kit from Clark's Corvair.

Bill, that's taking a chance. I had the same thinking ordering the CARS flat panel parcel shelf over the considerably more expensive fiberglass version from Clarks Corvairs. Shipping to Canada way cheaper too. However, regrets on my parcel shelf.

 

Your Liner was succussful and will survive with that hardboard on the underside incase of water leak and accessory Tri-Shield rubber mat topside. I should've used hardboard instead of Dynamat.

So, original liner installation used hardboard on the floor and liner directly on sheetmetal over axel hump?

 

We both have white 1963 Rivieras but that accesory mat will not work for me with that spare tire hold down loop on the floor.

 

Still no insight how to apply Liner on wheelwell curvature. No matter, I think I'll do carpet next time. Only decision is whether or not to go with a kit or fab my own from sheet hardboard and carpet from a roll. The latter might be best seeing how shipping is autrocious outside the lower 48. My upholsterer can apply binding to my cut pieces. He can do that much since the dye job he did to my armrests is coming off.

 

Thanks for heat activated contact cement recommendation.

 

 

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9 hours ago, XframeFX said:

Bill, that's taking a chance. I had the same thinking ordering the CARS flat panel parcel shelf over the considerably more expensive fiberglass version from Clarks Corvairs. Shipping to Canada way cheaper too. However, regrets on my parcel shelf.

 

Your Liner was succussful and will survive with that hardboard on the underside incase of water leak and accessory Tri-Shield rubber mat topside. I should've used hardboard instead of Dynamat.

So, original liner installation used hardboard on the floor and liner directly on sheetmetal over axel hump?

 

We both have white 1963 Rivieras but that accesory mat will not work for me with that spare tire hold down loop on the floor.

 

Still no insight how to apply Liner on wheelwell curvature. No matter, I think I'll do carpet next time. Only decision is whether or not to go with a kit or fab my own from sheet hardboard and carpet from a roll. The latter might be best seeing how shipping is autrocious outside the lower 48. My upholsterer can apply binding to my cut pieces. He can do that much since the dye job he did to my armrests is coming off.

 

Thanks for heat activated contact cement recommendation.

 

 

 

John,

 

When I did my trunk I had owned my car for a little over a year. I had so many things I wanted to do that money was a definite consideration. At the time I figured I would at some point replace this liner with the more expensive kit. Again, the cheaper price made this kit an attractive option if I were to replace it sometime down the line. It ended up being of a higher quality than I expected and has held up well. No plans on replacing. 

 

The "hardboard" on the underside is just a thin pressed paper. It is thick enough and hard enough to prevent the lines from the trunk floor to show through but, I don't think it will stand up to a lot of exposure to water.

 

From what I can remember there was no hardboard on the original liner. I believe it was just backed with a thin foam.

 

As you said, the accessory trunk mat won't work if you have a spare on the floor. I did buy a pretty decent trunk mat on e-bay that I use to protect the trunk during everyday use. It was cheap and it could be trimmed to fit nicely. Something like that you could cut a hole in to slip over the anchor for the spare. I can send you a picture of it if you would like.

 

The pieces for the wheel wells was formed and cut to fit the curves. I don't remember having any particular trouble putting those on and I believe I used spray contact adhesive on those.

 

Bill

 

 

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2 hours ago, gungeey said:

Make the edge of the fabric go very little beyond the wheelwell

No ugly slits on wheelwell liner!

You see, I could not getting my liner to conform to those curves. I was working from a roll. Now I've learned that pieces are pre-cut and those for the wheelwell are pre-formed as well.

During my attempt, did not use a heat gun as the foam backing was fragile.

No matter, as luck would have it. Water entered my trunk 2 weeks after installation, not 2 weeks before. Need to re-do the liner portion.

 

Thanks all.

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16 hours ago, XframeFX said:

No ugly slits on wheelwell liner!

You see, I could not getting my liner to conform to those curves. I was working from a roll. Now I've learned that pieces are pre-cut and those for the wheelwell are pre-formed as well.

During my attempt, did not use a heat gun as the foam backing was fragile.

No matter, as luck would have it. Water entered my trunk 2 weeks after installation, not 2 weeks before. Need to re-do the liner portion.

 

Thanks all.

How did the water get into your trunk John?  Have you stopped the leak?  I hope water isn't getting in from around the base of the back window, for that's not an easy fix!

 

A while back noticed a wet spot inside my trunk after I washed the car. Turned out the water was getting in around the slotted pins that hold the "Riviera" script emblem to the sheet metal, beneath the trunk lid on the right side of my '65.   I used some 'body dope' flexible black rope-type sealer around the 'puka' retainers that hold the emblem to the sheet metal from inside the trunk.  That did the trick, and no more wet trunk!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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7 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

no more wet trunk!

Great Alex, you got it "Licked"!

However with tailights in the bumper, leak not the same with as less than premium tailight gaskets for 1963-64.

 

Gawd, I've owned this car for so long, can't remember if this one had a vinyl top that caused some rust at the rear light.

 

Of all incompetent shops over the years, a local bodyshop did an excellent job. They removed windshield and rear light and re-installed after paint. Trunk cavity has body colour which is incorrect. But white makes the trunk squeaky clean.

 

With new gaskets, hopefully no more leaks, afraid to test!

Bernie D. mentioned the dollar bill test for trunk weather strip with Lid closed but water should channel around it down-slope to the rear straight to those tailights!

 

First thing on the 2nd go around for trunk liner is fitting hardboard on the trunk floor.

 

John B.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Chasander said:

I get water from Rt. Tail light. My solution don’t drive in rain. Solution not working very well, got caught a lease twice this summer. 

 

 

Chuck,

 

Tail light bezel gaskets from Steele Rubber will solve that problem. Same as original. Not cheap but, worth it. Beats water in the trunk.

 

I have wiper issues and my solution was not to drive in the rain as well. Worked for awhile. Then I got caught 4 times in the last year.

 

Bill

 

 

 

https://www.steelerubber.com/taillight-mounting-pad-50-0469-15

 

 

 

 

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Bill, I had the same problem years back - no wipers!   While waiting for a repair, I used 'Rain-X' generously on the windshield to bead up and repel the rain while driving.  It worked pretty good!  Not really a substitute for wipers, esp. at slow speeds, but rather effective at higher speeds as long as the rain isn't torrential.

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1 hour ago, 65VerdeGS said:

Bill, I had the same problem years back - no wipers!   While waiting for a repair, I used 'Rain-X' generously on the windshield to bead up and repel the rain while driving.  It worked pretty good!  Not really a substitute for wipers, esp. at slow speeds, but rather effective at higher speeds as long as the rain isn't torrential.

 

Alex,

 

Good info. I do try to keep my glass as slick as possible. I use a clay bar on all of my glass a couple of times a year. This really gets the glass smooth. Hard to believe how many contaminants are on there even though the glass is cleaned regularly. The detailer I use to keep my car clean is really good as well on glass and chrome. That gives the glass a Rain-X like slickness. The problem I had was not that the wipers won't work it was that they would not shut off. I went for 4 or 5 years without getting caught in the rain. That ended last fall twice where I had to turn the wipers on because the rain was really heavy. Thankfully, the wipers did turn off then. I got caught a couple of times again this fall. Wipers shut off again. I did change the wiper switch in that period after I had the initial problem with them not shutting off. Maybe that had something to do with them shutting off again. It is still a little weird as they don't shut off immediately. They will run for a while after I turn the switch off and then decide to stop.

 

Bill

Edited by Riviera63 (see edit history)
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6 hours ago, Riviera63 said:

 

 

Chuck,

 

Tail light bezel gaskets from Steele Rubber will solve that problem. Same as original. Not cheap but, worth it. Beats water in the trunk.

 

I have wiper issues and my solution was not to drive in the rain as well. Worked for awhile. Then I got caught 4 times in the last year.

 

Bill

 

 

 

https://www.steelerubber.com/taillight-mounting-pad-50-0469-15

 

 

 

 

Go by a Love’s truck stop and get one of their extra length squeegees. Then get your wife some goggles and a waterproof jacket.  She can squeegee the windshield as you drive.

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I used the cardboard kit from CARS and the trunk floor material from Jenkins. I had Jenkins

install the correct reddish brown vinyl bead around the spare tire cover.....Jenkins normally doesn't

do this if you order their kit. To keep the trunk floor from staining the trunk floor material and to make the

the trunk floor completely flat. I laid in very thin plywood on the floor, followed by vinyl sheeting and with the Jenkins material on top. All of the Jenkins material is just laid in the trunk with no adhesive. I topped

it all off with a CARS reproduction rubber trunk  floor mat in brown.......

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