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1937 packard copy good or bad


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Posted (edited)

31 LaSalle.....

I am sure you have already considered many things as you consider the gray Packard. The basic pictures do not show to what level this one was restored as in, trim, fit, paint, chrome, mechanics, detail of dash, top hardware, firewall and engine compartment. How much bondo was used to make the body lines straight, any fiberglass, body structure wood or steel tube. You are aware what it would cost to restore .mechanics, upholstery and paint. That would give you a starting point for establishing the ultimate value to you. Not everyone will arrive at the same value....but that is not your concern. With this car, I encourage you not to run on emotion only, (because you  want it) but the reality of what it is....a modern shop built custom. As before stated, this car has the look of more "stoic" British tastes as shown in proportions, straight lines and boxy appearances. (I for one can appreciate a fair degree of British styling as compared to what we see here in the US). Provenance is important as you look at customs built in the 50's that still have exact history with them and how that history affects value and sale price. It just takes time. Good luck with this interesting potential adventure.

Al

Edited by alsfarms
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There is a lot on the car that does not match a 1937 Super 8 Convertible coupe. Windshield pillar, wing windows, door fit to body tub, golf club door, placement of door, body line on rear quarter, shape of convertible top and the shape of the front door. My guess is a sedan with a custom made windshield pillars, rear door removed and body tub pulled forward, top custom made or modified from a different top. It is a custom car. 

Packard super 8 005 - Copy.JPG

Packard super 8 006 - Copy.JPG

Packard super 8 007 - Copy.JPG

Packard super 8 002.JPG

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12 minutes ago, alsfarms said:

The Talbot is certainly a beautiful automobile. However can you appreciate the serious blind spots you would be dealing with to negotiate this car in traffic!

Al

Guessing the days of this car dealing with traffic are over. 

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I don't like to criticize but my opinion is this car is worth less than a factory convertible in similar condition, a lot less. I hope those who are more familiar with the values of prewar Packards and classic cars in general will weigh in.

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37 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:

I don't like to criticize but my opinion is this car is worth less than a factory convertible in similar condition, a lot less. I hope those who are more familiar with the values of prewar Packards and classic cars in general will weigh in.

A persons opinion should never be taken as criticism

as to its value you are quite right it should a lot less than a factory convertible

but a factory convertible in the same condition as this car would be outside my budget

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11 hours ago, 31 LaSalle said:

HI alsfarms

yes this car is for sale and i am interested 

I am trying to gather some history of the conversion

unfortunately the seller thinks it has a high value as he advertises it as the only one in the world 

difficult car to value [anybody care to put a price on it]???

its overall condition is excellent ,engine and running gear rebuilt

Interesting question. Value, much like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. Modified vehicles are difficult to assess whether they will appeal to enough people to drive the price. I'm sure that many of us look at the resto-mods selling at auction and are amazed at the prices they bring. From the limited photos, this car looks to be well executed, only an in person inspection would prove whether that is an accurate perception or not. If I were looking to purchase this car, I'd start with recent sales of a 1937 Super 8 Touring sedan in comparable condition as a baseline. Only you can decide if the modifications add or subtract value to the vehicle and how much that dollar amount represents. Good luck!

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Posted (edited)

Here is a 1927 or 28 Peerless Model 8-69 Roadster and a 1928 Peerless 6-80 Roadster Coupe, both boattails. Good choices when you only wanted to spend 3 to 7 times what a Ford cost, instead of 12 times for a '28 Stutz Blackhawk Speedster. A Packard 734 Speedster, or the Duesenberg Model X, would set you back a lot, too. ($5,200 and $6,000+)

Antique Automobile Club of America ...

00cedafab62f48298efc94c2f513fb73.jpg

Edited by jeff_a (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

1928 Auburn 8-88 Speedster Gullwing Motors had for sale. These were only about $2,200 new. To be fair.........the Auburn boattails were where the bargains were. How they turned out cars like that for the price I don't know.
Used 1928 Auburn Boattail Speedster  | Astoria, NY

Edited by jeff_a (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

To OP, 

 

I understand my opinions or views on valuing vintage cars are different than many others here, but this IMO is a very typical case in which the potential buyer (YOU ?) establishes the value for it, be it in an auction or private sale.

 

YOU simply determine what this car is worth to YOU and make an offer based on that figure. 

If the seller doesn’t want to accept it, it just means it isn’t meant to be YOUR car, as he/she values it higher than YOU or doesn’t really want to sell it.

 

As I’ve pointed out before, I have bought (and sold) hundreds of vintage cars in past 45+ years and the above suggestion has always been my approach. And 99% of them I've personally inspected and if they were running & drivable, test driven at any and all speeds, etc.

 

I've never purchased any car, new or used, through an auction and probably never will because just about everyone I know or have met who bought a vintage car at an auction, whether online or physica venue, has later regretted it, some more, some less (most auction buyers won’t admit to this, especially publicly or to those they don’t know to be trustworthy to keep it to themselves).


Only time I would recommend buying a car in an auction is if you or someone you explicitly trust knows the given car intimately.

Edited by TTR (see edit history)
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In the early 1980s I bought a pair of 1940 Ford front fenders and a hood. I sold the fenders quickly but hung on to that hood for a few years with dreams of making it my boattail on something. My delay probably ended up in getting a little more for the hood.

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14 hours ago, TTR said:

To OP, 

 

I understand my opinions or views on valuing vintage cars are different than many others here, but this IMO is a very typical case in which the potential buyer (YOU ?) establishes the value for it, be it in an auction or private sale.

 

YOU simply determine what this car is worth to YOU and make an offer based on that figure. 

If the seller doesn’t want to accept it, it just means it isn’t meant to be YOUR car, as he/she values it higher than YOU or doesn’t really want to sell it.

 

As I’ve pointed out before, I have bought (and sold) hundreds of vintage cars in past 45+ years and the above suggestion has always been my approach. And 99% of them I've personally inspected and if they were running & drivable, test driven at any and all speeds, etc.

 

I've never purchased any car, new or used, through an auction and probably never will because just about everyone I know or have met who bought a vintage car at an auction, whether online or physica venue, has later regretted it, some more, some less (most auction buyers won’t admit to this, especially publicly or to those they don’t know to be trustworthy to keep it to themselves).


Only time I would recommend buying a car in an auction is if you or someone you explicitly trust knows the given car intimately.

This.

 

The market is limited for this sort of stuff so if you are interested you set the price.   I keep ending up with cars where it seems I'm the only guy that shows up to look.  In these situations smart sellers don't say no.

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11 minutes ago, alsancle said:

This.

 

The market is limited for this sort of stuff so if you are interested you set the price.   I keep ending up with cars where it seems I'm the only guy that shows up to look.  In these situations smart sellers don't say no.

I didn’t know you owned Hudson’s?😂

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"If it was my car" Skirts would not be considered. My first step for about the same cost as fabricating a pair of skirts and painting them would be to reverse the angle of the tail point. Bring it down at an angle similar to the later model Auburn Speedsters. Maybe sell that luggage rack to fund the modification.

 

The sidemounts and running boards look fine but I think they are right at the limit. Adding extra would be like adding love handles to a pole dancer.

 

image.jpeg.f24528cd6d64cc57500d3b6f541d7388.jpeg

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