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1929 Chrysler Dual Cowl Phaeton


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I just took deliver of a 1929 Chrysler 75 dual cowl phaeton. Hayes body. I can trace it back to a Carl B. Rawson of Las Cruces New Mexico in April of 1990. The car was restored and has spent most of its recent life after NM in the Old Car Haven Museum in Birmingham, AL. Current owner had it since Dec 2017.

 

Car needs a top, brakes done, paint touched up, top bow repaired and getting the engine up and running. 

 

Missing some parts but I believe people have helped me find most of the. Still a little unsure of the sidemount hardware.

 

It is one of the several DCP that are Mexican turquoise Blue,  Sarasota blue and Packard Ivory pinstripes.

 

Is anyone familiar with the car? That isn't me driving.

75 DCP.jpg

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The first job was to repair the center top bow that was broken in the middle.

 

There was a splice that looked like it was intentional. I went to my Morgan spare parts pile and found part# 0001, chunk of ash.

 

I cut it on the band saw and trial fitted it. I then used Smooth-On Epoxy.  It is the consistency of honey and is mixed 50/50. This is the product they use to make laminated archery, bows so it has great strength and impact resistance. Used an acid brush to mix and apply on all mating serfaces.

 

Clamped it and we will see what it looks like in 24 hours

75 Top bow failure.jpg

75 top bow repair.jpg

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Here is the repair. Smooth On says you can increase the bond strength with 150-180 degree heat for 4-8 hrs, so long as the wood doesn't catch on fire.

 

Little golden oak stain and some headlining material and I am good to go.

75 Top bow repair2.jpg

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Bad news. The "turns freely" engine doesn't. Valves free, pistons not. Soaking pistons with ATF/Acetone/Evaporust. I will give it about a week then the head is off.

 

Any other tribal fixes appreciated.

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Used mmo years ago. Would go out each day with a breaker bar and rock back and forth for a bit. About day 7 felt it move. Spent following few weeks getting it to turn the whole way around then till I could barely feel rust ring. Fired it up and no trouble.  That is after a full tune up.

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When you have a top made, make sure the trimmer  knows that the second bow from the front needs to have tension on it from straps or pads, pulling it back toward rear bow.  That will make the side irons go horizontal as they should be, and not droop as they are now.

 

Nice car!!

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Dave,

 

I just thought I would just drive it to Winchester next Apple Blossom or my next class reunion and have you fix it. LOL

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31nash880,

 

I haven't tried mmo. I am currently in the rocking stage. I might throw some mmo in the brew to see how it helps. I don't think the 5 piston rings helps the issue.

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6 hours ago, BlueDevil said:

alsance,

 

I am going to have to do something with the wheels. Any advice is appreciated.

Paint or powder coat the wheels the dark blue trim color.  Change the tires to black.  It will look fantastic.

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Thanks 1937hd45,

 

Ok, so far I have identified 3 multiblue 1929 75 DCP's

 

One, RHD with pilot rays, ivory wheels, listed at Druk Auto March 22

Two, LHD with pilot rays, orange wheels, from the S. Ray Miller collection, at Sotheby's in 2004. Has 3 shades of blue, 2 on body and the fenders are a different shade, darker.

Three, Mine. SInce it was in New Mexico in the mid 80's, I am thinking there is a good chance this was the Harrah car. I have a New Mexico tag and antique tag dated 1987.

 Supposedly Harrah's, Leo Gephart and Paul Stern owned one. The Gephart, Stern and Miller car may be the same.

 

Any historians out there?

 

This is the Sotheby car.

RM Sotheby's - 1929 Chrysler Model 75 Dual Cowl Phaeton | S. Ray Miller ...

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One of the most dangerous things about the early Chryslers appears to be the pot metal hub that attached the steering wheel to the steering hub.

I was trying to get the screws out of my 72 steering wheel and the hub just disintegrated. I was able to get one that  pre1939Chrysle,

has had recast in aluminum.  I have a buddy in Pittsburgh who is going to broach the keyway in it.

 

If you have one of theses early Chryslers, I would highly recommend replacing the original hub.

 

New hub=left, original hub=right The new one is turned the wrong way.

75 steering hub.jpg

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You can see evidence of the broken pot metal on the right of the original. There is a small remains of what used to be a collar.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Working on the stuck engine. After a month plus of soaking in MMO, Acetone/ATF, Kroil and Evapo-rust, with no progress, I decided to take the head off.

It came off relatively easily and there were 2 dry cylinders and 4 still holding some fluid. The good news is the bore is standard and there is no ring ridge to speak.

 

Now I guess I will try some moderate heat to the piston tops to see if I can get the penetrants to get to the rings.

 

image.jpeg.dc75fbc2b06b1c891894337c43d32e23.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Worked on the steering wheel today. 

Patched a chip in the horn trim ring, cut the keyway in the new aluminum hub and taper reamed it to fit the column, then epoxy coated everything.

Hope to top coat tomorrow

 

75 steering.jpg

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Here is the wheel, hub and horn surround. Unfortunately, the primer uncovered some hairline cracks that I will have to groove out and fill, but I can retire the vice grip steering lever.

 

Now on to sorting through the levers to get a set for the 75 and the 72.

75 steering2.jpg

75 shafts.jpg

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The car was missing the wiper and the rear mirror. I got a mirror bracket from Jay A., (Thanks) and was able to find a NOS Westclok Clock Mirror.

 

This clock mirror was made in the Westclok factory in Peru, Il before WWII. My wife's grandfather was in management at the plant when it was made.

 

Some powder coat and new screws and another issue resolved.

 

75 mirror.jpg

Westclok.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Got a picture with the oil pan removed?  I've seen a piston or two stuck when nothing else looks bad.  Water can get in either intake or exhaust though intake is more likely.  The cylinders with the intake valves open might be a focus.

If you take the pan off you can disconnect the connecting rods from the crankshaft and verify it moves freely.  Then check each piston.  Find the bad one(s), tighten everything back up and you're good.  If you have a FLEX-HONE or similar you might go ahead and pull the pistons, hone it and replace the rings.  If you can get to the valves you could take them out, clean and then lap them.  I'm about 5 miles north of you so if you need something let me know.

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Pistons are stuck?

I'm a jaguar mechanic and this happens a lot with there engines when not driven for a while.

when driving with the wrong oil there is oil deposit between the rings and the groves in the piston so when the engine cool down the rings can't go back in the groves as there should.

When the engine is not in use for a long time it gets stuck.

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