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1929 Chrysler Dual Cowl Phaeton


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Here is a rod/piston that has been in Evaporust at the piston end.  After an over night Evaporust soak, I ultrasonically cleaned it in Simple Green. You can tell the part of the rod that didn't get soaked.75pistoncleaned.jpg.e360ed48b086cea1a4d7dd903255314a.jpg

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Today is tappet day. The tappet bodies are held in place with a tubular sleeve that fits in a counterbore in the block.

 

You cannot remove the tappet block unless you get the sleeves out first. Sleeve in on the block above the tappet in the pic.

75 tappet in.jpg

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To get the sleeve out I first tried an internal pipe wrench but it was a hair too big. I then went to a set of snap ring pliers that push out when the handle is squeezed.

75 tappet spacer.jpg

75 tappet spacer removal.jpg

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In the last picture, notice the 4 x 4 blocks of wood at each end of the block.

 

I drive them in, doesn't take much to wedge them between the head studs, then you have some thing to sit the block on to work on it upside down with out the studs being in contact with the floor.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Valve day. They showed little wear. Used a reciprocating valve grinding tool. Has a paddle that fits in a slot in the valve head and as you turn it goes back and forth.

 

Spring helps lift the valve off the seat to redistribute grinding compound. Nice uniform seats.

 

Also ran a hone and a dingleberry down the cylinders and they are just about perfect.

 

Next I have to clean the block and paint everything.

75 valve.jpg

75 valve1.jpg

75 valve2.jpg

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I took the water jackets off and was surprised at what I found.

 

The outer plate is aluminum, repro?? and there is the flat aluminum plate under it.

 

Is this factory or ????

 

All the bolts came right out. Amazing.

75 Water jackets.jpg

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I would deck the block…….you may end up with sealing issues on the head gasket. I would deck it no more than 10 thousands. Also, put a straight edge on the head…….it’s probably more banana than flat after 95 years. 

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Someone spent a lot of time measuring and marking the mains.

 

This says .003 and is upside down, the rest were .002. I don't know if these are factory or just a very careful assembly mechanic.

75 block markings.jpg

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May I make a suggestion. Once the mains and flywheel are installed, install 4 bolts where the bell housing goes. Then stand the engine up on the bolts. You can adjust as needed so it doesn’t rock. This way you have total access to the entire engine minus the area next to the floor. You’ll be able to turn the crank as you install the pistons. As well as preset the valves and timing. Mike

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Installed the pistons this weekend and came up with a couple hacks on the rear brakes

 

I need to paint some small parts so got a magnet, covered it with paper to mask it and stuck the parts to the magnet. Bolts are really hard to paint so you can put the bolts on end and pant them without having to turn them. Secondly, it s really hard to mount the wire wheels as they used bolts not studs.  I got a couple of 9/16 x 20 studs and screwed them in where the wheel bolts go.  Hung the wheel on them which lined up the bolt holes, making it easy to get the bolts in. Then remove.

 

Lastly, I have determined there is a rear main seal, even though several of the cutaway drawings don't show one. Part number 51070. 2 pieces.  Olson's also include it in their kit.

Painting small parts 2.jpg

Painting small parts.jpg

75 wheel.jpg

75 rear oil seal.jpg

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Ok, which side is the offset side?  The manual says:

 

The tongue of the distributor driveshaft, unless it has been removed (it has),is now parallel to the centerline of the crankshaft, with the offset  on the side towards the carburetor.

 

Which side? I would think the heavy side, but???? I guess the worse case is your dizzy is 180 out.

75 dizzydrive.jpg

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Finished the brakes today, just need to install the reservoir and bleed them.

 

I think I will have the bottom end finished tomorrow and maybe have the engine back in by the end of the week.

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I tried to use a current Sneaky Pete to install the rear main seal and it was a failure.

 

I looked on e-bay for one of the old style ones with a wire basket end.

 

It arrived today and I had the seal in the car within 15 minutes of it hitting my mailbox.

 

The new one is on the left and the old stock original is on the right with the packaging and the old style has the rope in the basket.

 

 

 

sneaky pete.jpg

Sneaky pete2.jpg

Edited by BlueDevil (see edit history)
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I have a 1929 L-80 and have enjoyed following your posts, as I know the engines are similar but not exact.  I have never opened my engine, but it appears I have a drippy rear main that I will need to address.  I would appreciate if you can include names of part suppliers, part numbers, people you consult, and things I might need to look out for or consider while having my engine open.  I really appreciate your posts.  Correct part finishes details and other research information is also appreciated.  The confidential bulletins were really cool.

1929 Chrysler Whataburger.jpg

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Decided to safety wire the rods and mains. Lot easier than lining up holes for cotter pins and you don’t need to over torque the bolts to get things to line up. Also installed the oil pump.

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Decided to safety wire the rods and mains. Lot easier than lining up holes for cotter pins and you don’t need to over torque the bolts to get things to line up. Also installed the oil pump.

IMG_2098.jpeg

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