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The identify this tool


halifaxhops

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On 3/8/2023 at 5:14 AM, halifaxhops said:

Picture 4 of 6

 

Picture 5 of 6

I see that this tool has stumped the viewers. I have used a tool like this. We called it a Ridge Reamer

 

In my fathers' auto/truck repair shop; he had this tool.  And I actually used it as a teenager. Some cars in the early 1940's and 50's and certainly older had varying degrees of cylinder block hardness. causing engine piston rings and pistons to be installed. Maybe as early as 20-23 thousand miles. 

Piston rings seemed to be much harder that the cylinder walls. A ledge would develop at the top of the cylinder, to a depth of the first compression ring. Maybe only 1/8" or 3/16";.  To allow the piston to be removed from the cylinder, this ledge would spot the piston from going higher than the normal path of the top ring; this ledge had to be removed. The ledge wasn't all metal but hard carbon too. 

 

Ok the cutter is the pivoting small piece of carbon steel held in place by that screw show in pic. Being on a pivot it fit to the contour of the piston bore in the block. That cutter would only reach down, maybe 3/8" to 1/2" max. The top is that hex bolt maybe 3/4" .  It was a bit of a hard pull; but you had to be careful to keep the tool flush to the cylinder block. 

 

Once that little ledge was removed the piston and rod could be removed out the top of the cylinder bore.  Otherwise the rings would have caught on the ledge.

Edited by intimeold (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, intimeold said:

I see that this tool has stumped the viewers. I have used a tool like this. We called it a Ridge Reamer

 

In my fathers' auto/truck repair shop; he had this tool.  And I actually used it as a teenager. Some cars in the early 1940's and 50's and certainly older had varying degrees of cylinder block hardness. causing engine piston rings and pistons to be installed. Maybe as early as 20-23 thousand miles. 

Piston rings seemed to be much harder that the cylinder walls. A ledge would develop at the top of the cylinder, to a depth of the first compression ring. Maybe only 1/8" or 3/16";.  To allow the piston to be removed from the cylinder, this ledge would spot the piston from going higher than the normal path of the top ring; this ledge had to be removed. The ledge wasn't all metal but hard carbon too. 

 

Ok the cutter is the pivoting small piece of carbon steel held in place by that screw show in pic. Being on a pivot it fit to the contour of the piston bore in the block. That cutter would only reach down, maybe 3/8" to 1/2" max. The top is that hex bolt maybe 3/4" .  It was a bit of a hard pull; but you had to be careful to keep the tool flush to the cylinder block. 

 

Once that little ledge was removed the piston and rod could be removed out the top of the cylinder bore.  Otherwise the rings would have caught on the ledge.

I identified it a page back, but did not go into as much detail as you did. Thanks.

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3 hours ago, 3macboys said:

Here's one that I actually have no idea what it is or does so I will await your responses

20230310_125514 (2).jpg

20230310_125524 (2).jpg

As @rocketraider said you are missing the adaptors, the one with the rubber outer edge fits inside the steel wheel (hub cap removed) and you have spin wheels to adjust snug inside the wheel then flip levers to tighten it against wheel.

Then the red outer disc latches over ball studs and latch levers closed.

Once you use the platform with electric motor and spin wheel to speed, it has 4 round discs, 1 to add weight, 1 subtract weight, 1 to forward the position of the weight, 1 to subtract the position of the weight, when smooth it has a triangle to show where to attach weight on wheel and in the window it shows how much weight to add.

The one we used for Semi's was a trip to see and use, huge electric motor, was like starting a train from dead stop to get it up to speed.

 

I used these a lot in the early 70's in the shop.

 

Both adaptors for sale on E-bay "Vintage on the car wheel balancer"

 

Bob

 

EDIT: also had a kit to use strobe light.

1F114AC9-FD06-4934-AA5B-380FAE8D24D6.jpeg

113D119A-4EF6-457C-B974-59A4F0634F31.jpeg

Edited by NailheadBob
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You can use the spin balancer without the strobe or balance ring.  Trial & error with duct tape holding the wieght in place (clean the rim first).  Put your hand on the fender and feel the vibration.  It takes longer but it can be done.  The one thing about these machines is that they are really for non-driven wheels only.  If you try to use it on a driven wheel there is too much drag and the metal drum will dig an arc in the tire and produce much tire smoke.  Ask me how I know...

Edited by MikeC5 (see edit history)
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On 3/8/2023 at 6:22 PM, m-mman said:

Variations on a themeallenonastick.jpg.a0b8f20083bfdff742f988f1cce94037.jpg

Broker handle but functional.  Shorter that what has been shown prior, maybe easier to get in place?

 

 

liftertool.jpg.c422eaae6ff91524a365ad82de0d0500.jpg

The cheap K-D version of the lifter remover without the slide hammer effect

Snap-On tools will replace that broken handle for FREE

 

I had several old screw drivers with handles that had turned partially white in color then cracked and broke partially off like yours.

 

Bob

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Just now, MikeC5 said:

You can use the spin balancer without the strobe or balance ring.  Trial & error with duct tape holding the wieght in place (clean the rim first).  Put your hand on the fender and feel the vibration.  It takes longer but it can be done.  The one thing about these machines is that they are really for non-driven wheels only.  If you try to use it on a driven wheel there is too much drag and the metal drum will dig an arc in the tire and produce much tire smoke.  Ask me how I know...

Yup used to use one it will balance the whole wheel assy tire drum etc.  Great tool in some cases.

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On 2/13/2023 at 3:08 PM, rocketraider said:

Let's keep this going. Hint: GM cars.

 

20230213_160239.jpg

 

 

20230213_160300.jpg

 

20230213_160701.jpg

 

When I was digging these out I discovered I have TWO of those cable coilers Joe P posted!☺️ What happens when I get loose in a swap meet!

I am late to the party BUT top photo is a tester to check A/C thermo fuse circuit 

 

Bob

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@m-mman SPX 3385 instrument gauge tester looks the same as yours, mine was purchased new and was NOT cheap

 

IVR test was for Ford dash gauges that had a small voltage regulator connected into dash gauge cluster

 

Not sure if other manufacturers used IVR like Ford

 

Please keep us updated on your friends 1960 Ford gauge issue

 

SPX may have made Rotunda tester?

 

Bob

 

EDIT: it was Ford trucks that used the IVR system, NOT the Ford cars.

 

Edited by NailheadBob
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3 hours ago, NailheadBob said:

Not sure if other manufacturers used IVR like Ford

Chrysler for many years. The resistances the gauges used might have been different, that detail escapes me right now, but it is the same system. I believe it is a King Seeley design. Voltage regulator is being a bit generous, though I know they did call it that. It's more like a flasher. It just keeps turning the power off and on, and if I remember correctly the duty cycle is 50%. The gauges are thermal and don't react very fast, so this gets rid of any unwanted waving around of the gas gauge. A typical setup has one of these flasher things powering two gauges, gas and water temperature. There is a screw on the flasher doohickey, glued in place, that adjusts the duty cycle. It was never intended to be adjusted. An out of spec unit was meant to be replaced. If you do adjust the duty cycle, it affects the calibration of both gauges, so it should never be attempted unless both gauges are off calibration in the same direction. Stuck points will cause both gauges to read extremely high and possibly get damaged. It's easy to pry the can off and clean/unstick the points when you know that.

 

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Somehow I get a feeling a lot of us here own the same "unusual" tools that make our old car ownership easier!

 

Just today I helped a 20-year-old set the timing on a 1985 Dodge pickup. Got a text from him overnight asking if I had a timing light, and would I show him how. Sure- keeps me in practice.

 

My 80s Sears engine analyzer, dial-back timing light and a vacuum gauge got that Dodge running slick, and a young gearhead learned how to do something that's rapidly becoming a lost skill and art.

 

Reminds me of asking a local garage about checking my 93 F150's timing a few years back (I don't do computer controlled engines😬). Shop manager told me they didn't even have a timing light in the place any more since everything was done in a vehicle's ECM.😯

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Just now, NailheadBob said:

Voltage regulator tools, for adjustments of points.

 

could also be used on ignition points.

 

Bob

Winner.  I see it is also for linkages, never thought of that one.

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1 hour ago, halifaxhops said:

LOL no cheating now.

 

Not a trans tool either.

It is according to Snap-On. Hydramatic trans front servo gauge. I believe the "AT" in the AT-52 part number stands for "automatic transmission". AT-54 is the rear servo gauge.

AT-52 is the Snap-On equivalent to Kent Moore J-1693.

 

image.png.4ad58af524bc1cf1217112b02f298b86.png

 

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A non-descript generic plastic briefcase

case1.jpg.b3f72f886716494cdd51397f3693c9be.jpg

But when you open it you find a bunch of knobs and wires and adaptors 

 

case4.jpg.8d9e2d655a0596b3b38d38821c48e134.jpg

 

But if you need this thing there is no real substitute.

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2 hours ago, m-mman said:

case4.jpg.8d9e2d655a0596b3b38d38821c48e134.jpg

 

But if you need this thing there is no real substitute.

Robinair specializes in tools to service automotive air conditioning systems. I'm guessing this is a test unit for GM automatic A/C systems like Comfortron. The list of car lines at the top of Panel No. 3 kind of suggests that. There is a substitute, by the way. GM's in-house Kent Moore test unit was similar.

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31 minutes ago, joe_padavano said:

I'm guessing this is a test unit for GM automatic A/C systems like Comfortron.

Winner. 

From about 1966 to 1976.  All the Auto Temp Systems were the same, but everyone was a little different.  Each had different plugs and procedures to test and adjust them.   If you have one of these, fixing the ATC is not difficult at all.  If you dont . . . . . . <sigh>

 

Got it about 25 years ago from an ancient radiator shop. They were going to put it in the dumpster because they hadn't used it in years. 

It was invaluable on my 1971 Cadillac. 

case5.jpg

Edited by m-mman (see edit history)
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