Jump to content

1960 lincoln continental questions.


BryanFJ1

Recommended Posts

17 hours ago, arcticbuicks said:

looks like you might have bumped your distributor cap out of place doing work  in pic,might want to check before starting 

Oh, i took it off on a side to have more clearance doing this. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hello all in this topic!

I have small question about one weird thing that i have noticed just recently.

All of the sudden the interior light stopped working when i open the doors.

Where should i look to fix this problem? Is there a fuse in the fuse box that can be blown? 

The bulbs should be good (The ones in front at least, cuz they are new). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Possibly. 

 

Do you have a factory wiring chart for your Linken? You need it; Lincolns are fairly complex electrically.

 

Dome light problems are generally caused by three things: a blown power supply fuse (meaning you have to find why it's blowing), a bad door jamb switch, or a bad ground. 

 

All dome lights I'm familiar with use the door jamb switch to complete the ground circuit when a door is opened. Does it do this on all doors or just the driver's door?

 

 

You could put a picture of John Wilkes Booth in the car somewhere. Were I a Lincoln that would certainly make me think twice about acting up!😏

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/12/2023 at 10:45 PM, m-mman said:

The black edge arrow points to the TWO flat spring clips that clip into the horn ring to retain the center. One on each side 

As suggested a very thin tool wedged to move the center straight out from the ring is needed. Perhaps one thin tool on each side simultaneously. 

 

The yellow edge arrow pointing down is your problem This is the "spring" for the horn. However it is NOT a metal spring. It is a circular rubber ring. It is deteriorated and no longer pushes the horn ring outward.  It must be replaced with another rubber ring. A thick closed cell type of rubber ring is needed.  You cannot use any metal spring it works by being insulated between the ring and other metal parts. 

 

The yellow arrow pointing up is the 4 screws/bolts that hold the ring to the parts labeled as 13A 815. There are little insulating washers under each screw. DO NOT LOSE THEM!!!   The horn ring is fully insulated UNTIL it is pressed and makes ground contact. 

 

After the horn ring middle is removed the entire steering wheel then must be removed to service everything. 

 

60 horn ring.png

Tried and tried with different tools - it just sits there very tight and i am scared to brake darn thing... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the power buss feeding the cigar lighters, int lamps and clock, use your test light or multimeter to check for voltage on both ends of each fuse. If you find a fuse blown, close all doors and disconnect the battery cable. This power buss is hot at all times and unhooking the battery will save you from arcs, sparks and being startled.

 

Pull and replace the blown fuse with the same type and specification fuse, then close the doors and reconnect the battery. Open a door and see if your lights are working. If so, great. If not, recheck the fuse. If it's blown, there's wiring repair in your future.😵

 

You might need these guys.

220px-Lassa_witch_doctors.jpgGTY_the_exorcist_jef_140703_4x3t_608.jpg

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

Checked the fuses today - don't see any dark or blown fuses there. 

Wrong way to check, verify and PROVE fuses in an old car.   

Fuses are PROVEN with a test light.  Connect the test light clip to battery ground. Use the test light pointy end to touch each and every end of each and every fuse.  Because the test light is grounded it should light up on each end of each fuse.  Dirt, rust, corrosion, weak spring clips can all stop the flow of electrons (aka electricity) and act like a bad fuse.

 

Touching the test light to the fuse box clip end of each fuse also proves the integrity of the circuit and might be a better check because the brass clip is the end of the wire.  

 

I have had to remove each fuse from a box, clean and polish each end of each fuse (none were blown) and try to clean and scrape the surfaces of the clips before I got good solid reliable connections. 

2 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

Which one is related to the dome lights? 

Is it INT LAMP one?  

Yes, hence the use of the abbreviated word "interior lamp"

 

Note about fuse testing: In a fuse box there are two circuits. One that gets power all the time. One that gets power only when the key is turned on.  The fuses listed on the right side (including the int light) have power all the time. The fuses listed on the left side (turn signal, radio) only get power with the key. Hence the key must be on the test those fuses.

 

60lincwire.jpg.1ec552328c84ac47b22e5b0369335020.jpg

Edited by m-mman (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was testing lights yesterday when it was dark.

What is working:

  1. Trunk light
  2. Plate light 
  3. Parking lights 
  4. Brake lights
  5. Turning signals 
  6. Low beams 
  7. High beams 

Pretty good but, there is what doesn't work is:

  1. Baking up lights (Tried change bulbs - nothing)
  2. Dome lights 
  3. Dash lights (When i turn high beams i see some little light behind? the speedometer) Like in i little hole on top of it. 

Okay, on my way back to the car with testing tool... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

what doesn't work is: Back up lights (Tried change bulbs - nothing)

Did you notice that the Back up lights have a fuse. . . . ?   Yeah, you gotta verify that all of them are actually working. 

Then the back up lights are controlled by the "neutral start switch".   This is bolted to the lower steering column below the dash. This switch can get dirty and out of adjustment. Sometimes you have to have the shift lever in Reverse and shake it a little to get them to switch on. 

 

BTW - Have you purchased a Shop Manual and Parts book yet? 

There are so many answers to the questions that you are asking in these books.  There are also many pictures and drawings showing where the parts are, what they look like and how to evaluate & test them.  Check eBay, they are cheap and available in paper or digital. The originals are always better. Sometimes the scans do not show clear pictures. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, m-mman said:

BTW - Have you purchased a Shop Manual and Parts book yet? 

Some people saying that there is some difference with these "new" manuals, like they are not very good as the original ones 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When it comes to parts books there are other issues.   

First THEY ARE BIG, AND THICK AND HEAVY.  So they are expensive to mail and people ask big money for them. 

Second the illustrations are drawings and exploded views. (very handy for restoration!) So, the images copy and scan easily.   

 

Buying a scanned version of these is an OK thing to do. In fact electronic copies (PDF?) sometimes allow you to search by key word. 

 

FoMoCo parts books are easy to search and find things ONCE YOU UNDERSTAND THE SYSTEM. (much better than GM)  but that takes a little practice and understanding how "Group Numbers" work.  (example Radiators are cataloged with the grille not the engine)

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153284442074?fits=Year%3A1960|Make%3ALincoln&epid=2297641352&hash=item23b076f7da:g:h-oAAOSwcH5cAYqs&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8Gdv95D%2BP6DCargKO%2BFiAZHGg7Tlruvnxu%2FDMb%2BH50rO%2BJfOhKuCMqbpWUirz5hMTtIXSQylaLDsgHq19oc3E5ICLqsR2NNyVrICskPqkfIEywlHrqnPCPQkRTpxVWGuBWbeZwyPJa8UJ5zy4834MWlgfK71nC%2BE%2BqGIG7lifJQhIXdJEozHdzZI%2BJp2oKC5AHlt6tdX%2FcpB5sBx5w%2BOhV4sjW1QWInd81pFQIH0tWKYN3awrjNj5kY3T%2FSULgZgGjr%2BVFp6QuQAh3Ku6ZaLFXphXXYK5P1Vw2Zs0VnUy3VBbC%2FMuUpnBPqIkhDLszBZWw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM7syFltNh

 

 

Beware that parts books are divided in half. Sometimes by number grouping, sometimes by "Chassis" and "body"  If you buy originals make sure you get both. Or If buying them one at a time search for the other half. 

This auction has both books you can see how thick they are.  And you can see what the exploded views look like and how valuable they are. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313752135882?fits=Year%3A1960|Make%3ALincoln&hash=item490d15a8ca:g:ZMMAAOSwUB5hkEBN&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsGcXzImgLnKdfMO5TEtQphtyvXkwonCDHT4Q9N7ciUKjEVAh6XhId8pmCWP5R3xXo8vhvTUdNqw%2FgiSYXHQDB2TjPvAIbr5oqV5dzqDB2pIC41IY3eVleQQqbCz%2FBnrhpIIjCXIGvdVCGOzbAVoc4egU6T42CR1heVis8lOALWu5Y5L3M2xg1Heh1vgmEVawRSodl62U%2FVqVeIPfr7vURkfpJZsHM6hElIDRO%2FMulM2z|tkp%3ABk9SR_DMhZbTYQ

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once you have the books you can spend time reading them and searching for information about the part of the car you are about to fix.

It is amazing how much easier repairs are once you have read the factory instructions about how to do that job. 

They really give you a deeper understanding of your car. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

$66 shipped is not a bad price on an original factory printing shop book. Exact same book the dealership mechanics used to service your Linken when it was new.

 

m-mman, is there a separate electrical and/or vacuum diagram book for these Lincolns? Know Ford was doing that a lot in the 60s. Bryan, if if there is you need those too. The factory service publications are the single best investment an old car owner can make.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, rocketraider said:

m-mman, is there a separate electrical and/or vacuum diagram book for these Lincolns?

Nope those came later.   For 1960 it was the shop manual, the parts books and service bulletins. 

However service bulletins are rare (you need a whole collection in a binder) and have not reprinted as far as I know.

The SM and parts illustrations will do 99.99% of what you need. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Checked the fuses today.

Backing up light fuse is fine, bit the interior fuse blown and wasn't showing light on it's left side ( it broke actually when i got it out). 

image.png.d15533921473bf3c62b19dbe6bf2165c.png

 

All other fuses are fine BUT - there is one fuse that wasn't working on any side which is called INST. LAMPS

Which one is that? 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Test that fuse again with either the head or parking lamps on. It's powered thru the headlight switch.

 

The headlight switch probably incorporates an instrument lamps dimmer circuit. See if you can rotate the headlight switch knob. That operates a rheostat that varies voltage to the dash lamps and brightens and dims them for driver preference.

 

If you can feel a detent when the headlight switch knob is rotated all the way counterclockwise, that turns on dome and courtesy lights on a lot of cars, not sure on a 1960 Lincoln.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, rocketraider said:

See if you can rotate the headlight switch knob

Tried to turn it with low beams, high beams. I could hear the click at the end of the turn (which is suppose to turn dome lights?) but nothing was happening, since the dome fuse is a goner. 

So my question is could it be, that the Instrument Lamps are off - because it doesn't get any power trough the dome fuse? 

 

Also, the "funny" thing that the knob stopped even clicking after a few tries... 👹

Its just turns now. Hopefully it's still works...

Just going to wait for the new fuses and will try it again soon 

 

(Another "funny" thing the exact thing happened in my mustag not so long ago. Looks like these light knobs things are weak af 💢)

Edited by BryanFJ1 (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Short of having a wiring diagram, I don't know. Once that shop manual arrives you'll be able to trace each circuit from battery, thru fuses, switches and relays, to the component itself. You'll find a lot to love in that book.👍

 

Would seem strange to power dash lighting thru an always-hot power source due to risk of running down the battery.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, rocketraider said:

 

 

Would seem strange to power dash lighting thru an always-hot power source due to risk of running down the battery.

This was the way most cars were build. Electric window lifts, trunk and inside illumination wiring was all the time hot. 

This is still the case for inside illumination; however, most vehicles have since some years  a battery protection and the current is cut after about 10 minutes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

This was the way most cars were build. Electric window lifts, trunk and inside illumination wiring was all the time hot. 

This is still the case for inside illumination; however, most vehicles have since some years  a battery protection and the current is cut after about 10 minutes.

Also, just a quick question - am i the only one who disconnects the battery every time i'm done wit the car?

Like i had this weird feeling it will suck all the power out of it somehow... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

This was the way most cars were build. Electric window lifts, trunk and inside illumination wiring was all the time hot. 

This is still the case for inside illumination

No argument on DOME and COURTESY lighting though some, notably Oldsmobile,  powered their underhood,  trunk and glovebox lighting thru the main lamp switch thru the 1960s. These lamps operated only if the main lamp switch was pulled to parking lamps or headlamps on position. Again, a failsafe to keep these lamps from discharging the battery when the car was idle.

 

I believe Bryan was asking about dash and instrument lighting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

Also, just a quick question - am i the only one who disconnects the battery every time i'm done wit the car?

Like i had this weird feeling it will suck all the power out of it somehow... 

With some of the electrical gremlins you've found that's not a bad idea till everything's sorted out. Or you could get one of these battery disconnect switches. Install between the battery (-) terminal post and the cable, then when you want to disable the car electrically, turn the green knob towards OFF to interrupt power. Turn towards ON to reconnect.

 

images.jpeg.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright, i'm back with the fuse box updates. 

Put this new 14 amp fuse - dome lights are back on,

Knob switch is still works, even though not all the time it turns the dome light when the doors are closed, but it's okay.

But the INST LAMPS fuse is still dead from both sides, no matter if the headlights are on or off...

So that is a dilemma is for the future to be dealt with. 

BUT! Don't know how but i've made radio working lol. I used to turn these knobs all the time and all i heard was low cracking static on the left speaker.

Funny thing is when i put the driver side window down the radio like powered up more or something. It's still like half dead/all the buttons are sticking, but it works! Was on my way to the car wash with some Christian radio station on lol 🙏

Anyways we have a local town monthly car meeting tomorrow, so i'm going to show this old lady to the world for the first time. 

And just a little sneak peek from the the car wash today.

image.png.03d3ff0172431726e5083df802b2e54d.png

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, old car fan said:

Looks solid. 

Yeah good thing it was sitting somewhere in California for 15 years. 

Then it was sitting another 15 years here in Denver AND thanks god it wasn't touching the ground, even tho all tires were gone.

Well, front tires were gone gone, back tires are still good lol. 

(this is what i was buying) 7RQSq2K9c8Qgn0IUM1V4ExO1oNtNfurdveQhlcKezHO-JpF3gaSBZ5K-zpJb0U0NnrbMQKyyxQNr7yrfn6zU0JJC.jpg?size=1200x800&quality=95&type=album

V4GMrld3apvw_0VFO277RBNzaZRNKrFuvtysdzDhha4BQ0xGxUynYmv7WuPHrN9vKd1BI1b9z8sac-Lnpm-hgLas.jpg?size=1200x800&quality=95&type=album

K6kw7IZRr6XttgCAp8JqiIzjuYBL9w_WVxRHNS83p4hPeSoKtKP85S7TA8ZXbWTezaYZi3RvW30hLx5kjamtkA26.jpg?size=1200x800&quality=95&type=album

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, BryanFJ1 said:

Don't know how but i've made radio working lol. I used to turn these knobs all the time and all i heard was low cracking static on the left speaker.

Funny thing is when i put the driver side window down the radio like powered up more or something. It's still like half dead/all the buttons are sticking, but it works! Was on my way to the car wash with some Christian radio station on lol 🙏

Maybe the exorcists have come to the rescue! Let's hope not at a terrible price!

 

AM is full of religious stations, news, sports and talk, left and right propaganda, corny local programming ad nauseam. But once in a very long while you might find one that plays music. We're lucky here in southern Vajenya, we have two. One playing adult contemporary and the other 60s-70s-80s oldies.

 

If you can't stomach local AM programming your T&C can be converted and updated to FM, Bluetooth and other modern formats.

 

I've seen the guys on "Old Dirty Cars" bring back a lot worse than your Linken!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, rocketraider said:

Maybe the exorcists have come to the rescue! Let's hope not at a terrible price!

 

AM is full of religious stations, news, sports and talk, left and right propaganda, corny local programming ad nauseam. But once in a very long while you might find one that plays music. We're lucky here in southern Vajenya, we have two. One playing adult contemporary and the other 60s-70s-80s oldies.

 

If you can't stomach local AM programming your T&C can be converted and updated to FM, Bluetooth and other modern formats.

 

I've seen the guys on "Old Dirty Cars" bring back a lot worse than your Linken!

Well, i don't think fixing the antenna and radio is going to be any time soon, so i was thinking to get this bad boy, to listen my favorite stations while working on the car, driving it or maybe even taking it camping or something. Looks cool and the color is matching seats.

ByronStatics Radios,Teal AM/FM Radio,Blutooth Speaker,Portable Large Handle,AC 120V Power Adaptor Or Battery Operated,Large Dial Easy to Use,Tuning Knob,Telescopic Antenna,Headphone Jack

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, rocketraider said:

 

 

I've seen the guys on "Old Dirty Cars" bring back a lot worse than your Linken!

Oh yeah, if it was looking worse than that - i wouldn't have guts to buy it lol.

You know, need to start my first project with something half alive at least :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So i was looking at the trunk today, these weather strips are all pretty much gone. 

Then i noticed that there is too many wires going into it for just a little light bulb.

Then i noticed little motor - lol that thing has a trunk button for opening it from the door panel or somewhere else? 

image.png.c8216a3ac5802858c81e2e3d3791f5d1.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Power trunk release buttons are usually located in the glovebox or somewhere convenient for the driver. Though I believe most back then were vacuum operated.

 

I think Cadillac had this feature that early but not sure on Lincoln. Possibly a power-operated trunk pulldown? Close the lid to within a few inches of closed and the automatic gizmus takes over, pulling the decklid closed and latching it.

 

Replacing bad trunk weatherstripping is an afternoon's project. Source your new rubber, then remove the old using a plastic scraper, adhesive release agent (get it at an auto parts store that handles body shop supplies) and elbow grease. 

 

Harbor Freight has the scrapers.

 

image_13527.jpg

 

After all the old rubber and glue is out, scuff the trough with scotchbrite (and hope no rust!😬😖), then TEST FIT the new rubber without adhesive.

 

Once you're satisfied it fits correctly, run a bead of weatherstrip adhesive about halfway around the trunk opening, in the bottom of the trough. Then start installing the new rubber at the trunk latch area and work your way around. Try to not stretch the rubber much.

 

Once that side's done, run your adhesive around the other half of the opening and finish up! Make a good square butt connection where the ends meet, a dab of adhesive to hold it together, and wa-la! Dry trunk! 

 

Just remember new weatherstripping might require a little more effort to shut the trunk.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The remote trunk release on 58-60 Lincolns was electric (not vacuum) and it uses a single solenoid to pull a rod that releases the trunk latch as if you turned the key.  No "motor", no "pull down".   

 

The trunk weatherstrip (aka trunk seal) is glued to the lid. Installation can be tricky (difficult?) Because:

1. You are gluing it upside down so gravity works against you

2. The trunk lid opens up and OVER the rear panel and when open there is scant room to get a scraper in there much less adhesive or the seal itself. 

IDEALLY the lid should be removed and flipped over so that ALL the old seal and adhesive can be removed and the new seal PROPERLY attached and held in place until the glue dries. 

 

1958 to 1960 Lincolns are complex cars. . . . . 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...