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1960 lincoln continental questions.


BryanFJ1

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Well, i am back.

First of all - i woke up today with the pain in the neck, like barely was turning my head under the car disconnecting/connecting fuel hoses.

Didn't had any big bolts so i had to use OLD SPARK PLUGS lol, which is actually saved the day.

Then i tested the hard line as m-mman told me. Hard line is solid. (Which i actually really though that this is a problem honestly).

image.png.d1724201576238d1c891d0469eb7392c.png

So after that i tried to install this fuel filter, which is apparently has no orifice in it (All the fuel went to my test bottle before i connect/cut anything), so i crank it crank it the engine - car wont start but the bottle is full of fuel - DANG IT. And this third "vapor" nipple was facing up, i made sure of that. FAIL. 

 

So at this point - It's not the tank. Yeah i used term of "SHINY" but it was "metaphorical" - i have never catch any tank coat, never seen ((And trust me if it was peeling i would notices it in my filter before the fuel pump.)) it's not the fuel line, it's not the fuel pump, it's not the fuel pump rod, it's not the carb (since it's working at the ambient temp?), there is a spacer.

 

There is a temperature involved, it must be it. Boiling point of modern fuel. Altitude... 

 

So i put the fuel lines at the engine bay in heat resistance covers, and i am going to (god even typing this is embarrassing) cover the fuel pump in a shitload of layers of foil. AND MAYBE this will not the cure the problem BUT it will help a little bit to eliminate the problem? 

I don't have a TRACK like m-mman has - but i can drive this girl around the block over and over to recreate the very hot conditions and see from there? 

I am really aiming for that heat shield that covers the fuel pump (Plus bunch of foil that will cover under it) so it will look nice and tidy.

Summit Racing‚ĄĘ Fuel Pump Heat Shield Wraps SUM-350147(God what did i got myself into dammit!)

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You are following a methodical path to discovering the source of your problems through the elimination of variables.  
This is how mettlesome failures are proven and eliminated. ¬†ūü§ď

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9 minutes ago, m-mman said:

the elimination of variables.  

Well, first of all - thank you for shearing your experience on that problem.

Because maybe it's not this car, but bunch of others will doing funny things, and now i know that that there could be this... so yeah THE MORE YOU KNOW.

In my situation - i think i will order this fuel pump cover (plus bunch of foil under it, plus heat covers for fuel hoses).

This is in a still testing shape... Maybe i can actually physically eliminate the heat? 

 

 

GOD THIS FKN CAR I SWEAFR TO GOD! 

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1 hour ago, BryanFJ1 said:

Didn't had any big bolts so i had to use OLD SPARK PLUGS lol, which is actually saved the day.

You're becoming an inventive little cuss, aren't you?ūüėĀ

 

I still think modern fuel is a big part of the problem, since it's designed for fuel injected engines and is more volatile than gasoline of the Linken's era ever was. I expect Colorado has some location-specific EPA-required fuel blend too, which isn't helping any.

 

You could try a fuel cool can like drag racers use, but then you have the hassle of hauling ice everywhere you go.

 

Just curious what the building in the background of yer new avatar is?

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Are you sure there's no orifice in that fuel filter? I've never seen one without... well except the one I DRILLED out to use as a fuel pressure gauge hookup for 60s cars with an inline fuel filter. You should be able to see it just looking up inside the nipple. It's in the smallest nipple.

 

As for the Lincoln, keep after it. Test and eliminate. You'll get it. ūüĎć

 

 

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13 minutes ago, rocketraider said:

Just curious what the building in the background of yer new avatar is?

You do know i'm Russian, right? :D 

This is LENIN mausoleum (Which i have never been to inside, but Lenin is atcually is a half body now? (Yeah the lower part of the body has been cut off i think?) So it's just torso now? I think you can look that on the YouTube, it's been a while...

But yeah FATHER OF REVOLUTIONS is behind my back (Even tho he fckd up the whole thing)

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14 minutes ago, Bloo said:

Are you sure there's no orifice in that fuel filter?

All i know, filters designed like this - are straight shot or there in orifice in it. This one  is probably the one that is a straight shot (no orifice in it?).

Tried to Ask amazon - no answers. So i MIGHT got the wrong one (Bc for others it has to be orifice at the tank for JEEPS yada yada ydaa), It's tricky.

I guess ill' try of what i posted before and let ya'll know? 

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Hello ya'all! 

Looks like i am ACTUALLY fixed it? 

So i got this new filter with a nipple sticking out from it on the side, which is actually very neat, bc i put that thing on the highest point in the engine bay sticking out UP, so if there is any bubbles - they will find a way right there on the top of the line. 

Then i bought "Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier" to cut it later on to wrap it around the fuel pump and fuel lines, so it looks all nice and tidy. Then on top of the wrapped fuel lines i put some Heat Wrap Shield Sleeve so there is like a double heat protection and i wrapped the bottom of the fuel pump with like 3-5 layers of foil just to make sure it has some protection (But it came out not that bad at all).

Then there is this orifice nipple - car had NO PROBLEM working with it, all the extra gas is going back to the tank, pump is always pumping - NICE.

So today was a pretty hot day, car was idling for like a 30 minutes, then i was driving it around my neighbourhood for like another 20 minutes.

Got back home, turned the engine off and went to hear what is happening back at the tank - i was hearing fuel dripping back in it but without any hissing, maybe like a little water bubble sound just once, BUT, 10 minutes later i was still hearing this sound. I think that just might be the build up pressure just pushing it out...

 

So i started it, went to check the fuel filter - it was dry but then it started to pumping it right away and i guess that might be it?

No more stalling in the traffic. :D 

image.png.77bbda2262a0b35665b5bfe4bf516072.png

image.png.07a1b83497793fcf579eba36f9fb5d4f.png

 

Also i checked the horns with the wire from the battery - yup, they are all fine. Need to check that relay then. 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, rocketraider said:

Glad you're making progress.

 

I think we can safely say you now have true car guy cred! A lot of people would have given up on this Linken by now.

Thank you! :D The only thing, i realized later on, that is not protected is this orifice fuel filter...

Better to wrap it with this Aluminized Heat Barrier as well. Just make sure SURE everything is protected. 

 

Also, a little heads up of what i was thinking about, as plan B for my pump, if the heat barrier wont stick to it -  like if you would need to protect some parts of your car from the heat, and there is like NOTHING you can buy for it (Like it's something from 1930?), the shape of it is all weird so you can't wrap nothing around it - there is MIGHT be solution of using fireproof racing socks, they are made if nomex (This is like firefighter clothes made of) and pair of socks supposedly should help to resist the heat in some way. And you know, the bigger is the part - then bigger the sock size lol ;) 

Edited by BryanFJ1 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, old car fan said:

Honestly, do not think  that is your  problem even  with the new gas.We have never  had the issue, cars from 1912, to 79,even  have a 61 Lincoln  we can drive  anywhere, and the top works.

Well, i guess someone is more lucky than the others.

It's not like vapor lock is a term out of the thin air - it's a real thing, which can occur in some cars..

 

I love how this guy explains it and especially it is very interesting to read the comments to this video.

 

You can tell right away, if the guy knows what he is talking about when he is explaining of how the fuel system works while HOLDING A LIT UP CIGARETTE! ūü§£

Edited by BryanFJ1 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 4/24/2023 at 4:55 PM, BryanFJ1 said:

Hello ya'all! 

Looks like i am ACTUALLY fixed it? 

So i got this new filter with a nipple sticking out from it on the side, which is actually very neat, bc i put that thing on the highest point in the engine bay sticking out UP, so if there is any bubbles - they will find a way right there on the top of the line. 

Then i bought "Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier" to cut it later on to wrap it around the fuel pump and fuel lines, so it looks all nice and tidy. Then on top of the wrapped fuel lines i put some Heat Wrap Shield Sleeve so there is like a double heat protection and i wrapped the bottom of the fuel pump with like 3-5 layers of foil just to make sure it has some protection (But it came out not that bad at all).

Then there is this orifice nipple - car had NO PROBLEM working with it, all the extra gas is going back to the tank, pump is always pumping - NICE.

So today was a pretty hot day, car was idling for like a 30 minutes, then i was driving it around my neighbourhood for like another 20 minutes.

Got back home, turned the engine off and went to hear what is happening back at the tank - i was hearing fuel dripping back in it but without any hissing, maybe like a little water bubble sound just once, BUT, 10 minutes later i was still hearing this sound. I think that just might be the build up pressure just pushing it out...

 

So i started it, went to check the fuel filter - it was dry but then it started to pumping it right away and i guess that might be it?

No more stalling in the traffic. :D 

image.png.77bbda2262a0b35665b5bfe4bf516072.png

image.png.07a1b83497793fcf579eba36f9fb5d4f.png

 

Also i checked the horns with the wire from the battery - yup, they are all fine. Need to check that relay then. 

Just a little heads up with my super-duper fuel cooling innovation lol - looks like it really does work!

I've been testing it every now and then. But today i had long runs, to the car meet up, to the gym, to the gas station, back home and even back home i let it run for a little while before turning engine off to make temperature go up - pump is barely warm (Before heat upgrade i was trying it with my had it was hella hot). No stalls! 

 

I'd say it's a win! 

Edited by BryanFJ1 (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 3/22/2023 at 6:08 PM, m-mman said:

Ok, for this we will start backwards.  Relays rarely "blow" BUT they do get corroded and develop poor connections. 

1960 - I believe your horns are under the hood. They were behind the bumper in 1958 & 59 but moved to the underhood in mid 1959 because they got splashed and stopped working. (Lincoln issued a service bulletin on this) 

 

Remove the wires from each horn. They should have flat slide on connector. Clean the connector on the horn (Emory paper? steel wool?) 

Connect a (long) jumper wire from the positive battery post and touch it to each horn. (there should be two horns)  Each horn should easily squawk and squeal. If not, the horns themselves have problems. Horns vibrate to make noise and if they sit for along time I have had them stick. Then removing then and shaking them and even spraying some WD40 into them is needed to free them up. If and when you remove them, also clean the mounting brackets and the area where they bolt to the body. (this gives you a good ground) 

 

A Ford horn relay is a very simple thing. It is a box with three connectors on the bottom. (Yours was very likely unplugged to cure a stuck horn condition because your horn ring is not fixed) 

hornrelay.jpg.e152610f614f21f5ec86cd092b5e2922.jpg

 

The three connections 

1. Power coming from the battery. It has no fuse, no switch, because the horn should function all the time, key on or key off. 

2. Power going to the horns. When the relay closes (FYI - a relay is just a switch that is controlled by another switch) it gets full battery power and sends it to the horns. (the reason you want to make sure your horns sound at all before you mess with the relay)

3. Power that is GOING to the button in your steering wheel.  This 3rd connector is powered, and when IT is connected to ground, the relay closes and sends full battery power to the horns. 

 

First You will find your relay.  You will see if it was plugged in. 

It uses a three prong plug. You can use your test light to probe and see if ONE of the sockets in the plug has battery power.  No power to any plug? more testing and tracing.

You can then jump 12 volt power from the positive battery post to one of the other sockets. IF the horns are plugged in and working they should sound. 

You can then jump 12 volt power to the remaining socket and then verify that there is 12 volt power at the button in your turn signal switch. IF no power at turn signal switch then you need more testing and tracing. 

 

Chances are you have dirty connections or broken connections somewhere. 

 

 

image.png.8f23189d477823a60af0d3ebca7aec39.png

Um, so while some thing are getting fixed -  i was doing more testing with the horns.

So - took the relay off, tested it with the light tester - relay getting power from the left connector (red circle).

Then i put a wire into the right connector (blue circle) - horns started to work. Good. 

Then, i dropped positive cable into the connector (Green circle) which should power up the button at the steering wheel - but by touching the button with my light tester there was nothing...

 

So, in my understanding - "they" decided to turn the horns off by disconnecting a "possible" wire right after the steering column - but where? 

I have found one disconnected wire (Black color) - but this one comes from the radio, and two wires under the dashboard right behind the fuse box - one is PINK second one is BLACK (or maybe black with green stripe?). 

image.png.ffa3648befb6f505db60bd3c2031270f.png

Like i'm pretty sure it must be right there somewhere easy to reach... 

Because why would you torn the dashboard apart when you can just take the relay off...?

 

Or there is a blown wire somewhere (god please no)

 

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Posted (edited)

I usually use these two electric diagrams. One is more simple, second one is like two parts and more a bit more complicated.

So in a simple one it says that the wire is green, the complicated one says that it's a blue and yellow. But by looking at the relay connector you can confirm - it is blue and yellow.

Simple one is showing that the wire is meets sort of a circuit breakers as @m-mman mentioned on other thread. 

image.png.79f951029380e361b5bda54cac038340.png

 

And in a complicated one wire is meets some sort of a BOX right after the button and then another BOX right before the relay.

Second box is actually looks like a some sort of a circuit breaker but question is - where is it...

 

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring diagrams/LincolnWiring/MWireLin_Lin57_z3wd-242z_005.jpg

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring diagrams/LincolnWiring/MWireLin_Lin57_z3wd-243z_006.jpg

 

Edited by BryanFJ1 (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

I usually use these two electric diagrams. One is more simple, second one is like two parts and more a bit more complicated.

So in a simple one it says that the wire is green, the complicated one says that it's a blue and yellow. But by looking at the relay connector you can confirm - it is blue and yellow.

Notice that the "simple" diagram is labeled GENERIC.

Notice also that it shows overdrive kickdowns and stuff that your car was never equipped with.

It is a GENERIC diagram that could be used to understand how basic circuits are connected, BUT since it is not for a 1960 Lincoln, never, never, rely on color codes. There are no universal wiring color codes for all manufactures. They each did it differently.

Within a particular manufacture, they may use colors across various lines but don't count on it. 

 

Although it takes 2 pages, it is better to refer to the 1960 Lincoln diagram. 

 

Personally, I am not real big on wire colors. Too much happens after 40, 60, 80 years. People change things and colors fade.

Personally I prefer to follow and trace the actual wire in question. 

 

You have now tested and proven the wires coming from the horn relay plug. (good job!) The wire in question is the one that goes to the horn switch.  Time to start at the other end and find that wire. 

 

We know that the horn switch is behind the steering wheel and that it is part of the turn signal switch assembly.

We know that the wires come from the turn signal switch  and run down through the steering column and exit the column approximately near the brake pedal. There will be some sort of a connector that has about 7 wires/connectors 

1. Power from the TS flasher

2. Power to the R front bulb

3. Power to the L front bulb

4. Power to the R rear bulb

5. Power to the L rear bulb

6. Power from the dash lights to the PRNDL indicator

7. Power coming from the horn relay to the button/contacts and the horn ring. 

 

In this package of wires exiting the steering column should be the Blue/yellow wire that you are searching for. 

This bundle of wires SHOULD be plugged into a/other bundle(s) of wires that go to/through the firewall (to the front lights and horn relay) and under the carpet to the rear lights. 

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Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, m-mman said:

There will be some sort of a connector that has about 7 wires/connectors 

image.png.e93583df03a5e2f94254d8f82ddef808.pngI guess it's these... But here they are looking solid, unfortunately...

Also, i checked the button itself, because the copper wire doesn't look very good inside of it, but it's not ripped, so it's shouldn't be the cause, but it could...

image.png.1fc14461e5fcd5898ebde498c66bcbf3.png

Edited by BryanFJ1 (see edit history)
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17 minutes ago, BryanFJ1 said:

Also, i checked the button itself, because the copper wire doesn't look very good inside of it, but it's not ripped, so it's shouldn't be the cause, but it could...

The copper wire rarely breaks and it they do they come apart and the spring falls out. 

Not broken, BUT looks corroded. Clean with steel wool. 

 

So you found the connector, NOW jump 12 volts to the underhood plug and you should see 12 volts at the steering column wire.  

BTW This is when you might begin to consider color codes to help determine which wires are which. 

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14 minutes ago, m-mman said:

jump 12 volts to the underhood plug

Um, here goes the question - to make the test light tool work right (always?) - you need to use some wire to extend it to negative battery terminal, right? 

Like i was trying to test on fuses just by grabbing the body and touching the fuses ends - nothing was happening... 

 

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The positive "energy" goes through the wires, switches etc. Direct Current MUST return to the negative side of the battery. . . . 

The negative side of the battery cable (commonly called the ground) is connected to the body/engine. The entire body/engine/frame are all connected to one another. . . . .

 

So if you "ground" your test light by connecting it to ANY (clean, unpainted) metal anywhere on the car . . . . It is going to be connected to the negative side of the battery. 

The ground system in a (Direct Current) car electrical system is sometimes called the "hidden" battery cable, since it is every piece of metal in the car. 

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3 minutes ago, m-mman said:

unpainted

Must be it then lol.

Because i kinda knew about the ground rules, but just wanted to make sure i actually know about it... 

You know, better ask silly questions than be KNOW IT ALL without actually knowing anything at all.

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  • 3 months later...

Hi everyone! It's been a while! :D 

 

So within past few months i was doing nothing with the car, but the car was doing things to me...

And it's just got to the point i wanted to share some info about what's been happening.

 

1 - My favorite thing stopped working! :C - It's the trunk opener. Not really sure is it the button that gave away, or it's the motor in the trunk that died.

Need to run some tests on that... Tried to google new trunk opener motor - nada... 

2 - Rear passenger window is not going down. I can hear motor making sounds, but nothing is happening. I do really hope it's just might be "stuck" in its frame, but if the motor died - boy oh boy it's a troubles in town. 

3 - Passenger side lower headlight lamp stopped working (I think this is the high beam one?). Good thing they are not so expensive and kinda easy to change, but the question is - will the new one be the same color as the rest of 3 of these which are still original?

 

And i still cant track the horn button wire... 

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2 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

It's the trunk opener. Not really sure is it the button that gave away, or it's the motor in the trunk that died.

Need to run some tests on that... Tried to google new trunk opener motor - nada... 

that’s because it’s not a motor, it’s a solenoid.  An electromagnet that pulls a rod that’s connected to a linkage that releases the latch the same manner when you turn the key. 

When 12v is applied it pulls, no power the spring returns it to neutral position. 
The dash button just connects the 12v with the solenoid. (Two wires on the back). 
Trace the wires, use your test light to see where the voltage is stopping, repair connections. 
 

2 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

Rear passenger window is not going down. I can hear motor making sounds, but nothing is happening. I do really hope it's just might be "stuck" in its frame, but if the motor died - boy oh boy it's a troubles in town.

Good news the MOTORS are robust and rarely fail.  
Bad news the correct and proper repair is the complete removal of the window regulator for cleaning and relubrication.  
When the car was assembled over 60 years ago the mechanism was well greased. The grease has been drying out for 60 years! It is no longer grease but a thick sticky putty that resists movement. 
Imagine have 60 year old oil in the engine or transmission? Would you ever expect them to function?  No, and the windows are the same thing. 
 

Removing, cleaning and reinstalling isn’t really difficult BUT it is tedious and requires patience and a little understanding about how the mechanism works and what needs to be removed. 
 

2 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

Good thing they are not so expensive and kinda easy to change, but the question is - will the new one be the same color as the rest of 3 of these which are still original?

Unlike those annoying modern cars, Sealed beam systems were standardized by law so any replacement bulb will work. In show cars there are differences in the manufacturer and the pattern of the lens, but that won’t be an issue for you. 

Edited by m-mman (see edit history)
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Today car was throwing fists at me...

After today's car show i was kinda RACING around a bit, then i went to the gym.

Been there for like an hour. Weather is not super sunny, but it's hot and gloomy and there is almost no wind.

Got to the car, started it, was about to leave parking lot - and HERE WE GO AGAIN - stalling because of no gas. 

Good thing there was a spot to pull in.

Good thing i had a bottle of water to pour it on the fuel pump (Fuel pump was super hot even tho it's all covered in heat protection).

Bad thing - while you are trying to pull all that gas back in the carb - your starter is not feeling so well because it's getting super hot right next to the exhaust manifold. (I have some extra heat covers, i think i'll cover it as well). 

Thus, right before carb was about to get all that gas (Filter was already full), started decided to take a break and stop turning engine. 

Could be bad a battery, but i'm pretty sure it's not the battery... 

So i had to wait like 30 minutes before everything is finally cooled down and i can try to start it again.

And FINALLY i was on my way home.

 

Moral of the story - cars like this DOES NOT like hot temperatures ^^'

Edited by BryanFJ1 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/2/2023 at 12:49 PM, m-mman said:

that’s because it’s not a motor, it’s a solenoid.  An electromagnet that pulls a rod that’s connected to a linkage that releases the latch the same manner when you turn the key. 

When 12v is applied it pulls, no power the spring returns it to neutral position. 
The dash button just connects the 12v with the solenoid. (Two wires on the back). 
Trace the wires, use your test light to see where the voltage is stopping, repair connections. 
 

Good news the MOTORS are robust and rarely fail.  
Bad news the correct and proper repair is the complete removal of the window regulator for cleaning and relubrication.  
When the car was assembled over 60 years ago the mechanism was well greased. The grease has been drying out for 60 years! It is no longer grease but a thick sticky putty that resists movement. 
Imagine have 60 year old oil in the engine or transmission? Would you ever expect them to function?  No, and the windows are the same thing. 
 

Removing, cleaning and reinstalling isn’t really difficult BUT it is tedious and requires patience and a little understanding about how the mechanism works and what needs to be removed. 
 

Unlike those annoying modern cars, Sealed beam systems were standardized by law so any replacement bulb will work. In show cars there are differences in the manufacturer and the pattern of the lens, but that won’t be an issue for you. 

Thanks for the tips.

 

I am starting to notice one particular flaw in charging system. 

When the car is idling - the generator indicator glowing red, which means Alternator (Or it was called generator back in the days) barely producing any power back to the battery. I think when i just got the car, it was barely glowing, but now it's all red and to get rid of it i need to rev the engine to a pretty high RPMs.

 

New ones are like 400$, so i thought maybe there is a chance to rebuilt the old one? 

Not sure if i can do it myself tho ūüėē

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On 9/2/2023 at 12:49 PM, m-mman said:

Good news the MOTORS are robust and rarely fail.  

So i was tearing apart the window today, got to the motor, sprayed WD40 everywhere.

So the motor can only go up, when im pressing down it's making low sound and noting happens.

No matter how hard i was shaking and moving everything :( 

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1 hour ago, BryanFJ1 said:

So i was tearing apart the window today, got to the motor, sprayed WD40 everywhere.

So the motor can only go up, when im pressing down it's making low sound and noting happens.

No matter how hard i was shaking and moving everything :( 

To my understanding - the best scenario is just to change the motor. 

And as i understand 1960 power windows motors  is suppose to look like this and mount from below into the gears assembly, if i am correct. 

 

So i need to get this one i think?

5170Bk2wGvL._SL1242_.jpg

image.png.1bd7376e4b54448a281ff8ebb7c250e2.png

 

Or it's suppose to have top gear part to it? 

Edited by BryanFJ1 (see edit history)
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I believe the window motor is connected to the regulator by a rubber collar.  The gear set is in the regulator above the motor and can be seen in your photo.  It sounds like your motor is ok but the rubber collar is bad.  I believe one of the major Lincoln suppliers has reproduced this.

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20 hours ago, BryanFJ1 said:

Thanks for the tips.

 

I am starting to notice one particular flaw in charging system. 

When the car is idling - the generator indicator glowing red, which means Alternator (Or it was called generator back in the days) barely producing any power back to the battery. I think when i just got the car, it was barely glowing, but now it's all red and to get rid of it i need to rev the engine to a pretty high RPMs.

 

New ones are like 400$, so i thought maybe there is a chance to rebuilt the old one? 

Not sure if i can do it myself tho ūüėē

I would change the voltage regulator before the generator.  There are procedures in the shop manual to test the generator output and the voltage regulator.  The points in the regulator may be sticking.  You can open it and clean the points and see if that helps.

Edited by 61polara (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, 61polara said:

I believe the window motor is connected to the regulator by a rubber collar.  The gear set is in the regulator above the motor and can be seen in your photo.  It sounds like your motor is ok but the rubber collar is bad.  I believe one of the major Lincoln suppliers has reproduced this.

I was thinking about taking the whole thing apart and running bunch of tests before proceeding buying new motor, because 270 bucks is an OUCH ngl...

But if motor is disconnected from everything is still making low short humming sounds, i don't think it's repairable :c 

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2 hours ago, 61polara said:

I would change the voltage regulator before the generator.  There are procedures in the shop manual to test the generator output and the voltage regulator.  The points in the regulator may be sticking.  You can open it and clean the points and see if that helps.

Wow that's a good suggestion. I wouldn't think of this. Thank you! 

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On 9/2/2023 at 12:49 PM, m-mman said:

The dash button just connects the 12v with the solenoid. (Two wires on the back).

Was doing some tests around it. So when i grabbed these 2 wires and pushed them in and at the same time i was trying to push the button - i made trunk solenoid click couple if times. So the issue is in some possible corrosion in it or just bad connection in general at the glove box button.

The one thing i couldn't understand is how to take this whole button out? 

It like the only way is to release these flower shape metal teeth around it that holds it in place... 

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