61polara Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 (edited) Brian, back on your horn issue. I believe the relay plug terminal that you circled in red is to for the horn ring wire. This wire that runs up the steering column provides the ground for the horn relay to send power to the horn. You could also test continuity if you make up very long test leads. If all of this tests good, your relay is bad. Edited November 18, 2023 by 61polara Removed incorrect information (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanFJ1 Posted November 16, 2023 Author Share Posted November 16, 2023 (edited) 23 hours ago, 61polara said: With the connector plugged into the relay, you should not have any power on the horn ring wire. This kinda proves my test from yesterday, where i put a wire into the horn ring connector, then put the relay in the whole connector plug and tried to touch the other end of the wire on the car body and negative terminal - nothing happened. Also, finally traced the wire from the connector plug all the way to the steering wheel - it's solid. Ordered new relay. Finger crossed it IS the bad relay... Edited November 17, 2023 by BryanFJ1 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m-mman Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, 61polara said: With the connector plugged into the relay, you should not have any power on the horn ring wire Review the diagram. Power from the relay is brought to the; steering wheel, turn signal switch, horn ring looking for a ground. This 12 volt (looking for a ground) is an extension of the coil in the relay. Action: 12 volts through the relay coil, that when grounded at the horn ring pulls the relay switch together and send power to the horns. If you feel that the relay is bad, they aren’t that expensive to replace. Again you can use the ohm meter to test the connection between the steering wheel horn button and the plug at the relay Edited November 16, 2023 by m-mman (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanFJ1 Posted November 21, 2023 Author Share Posted November 21, 2023 Im back with the news. The horn is FINALLY WORKS! So there were two things involved in this trouble. The old relay, and the spring button thingy that apparently was covered in invisible grease? So i had to get myself an multimeter tester to track it to where the "signal" is corrupted to find it at the spring thingy. Cleaned the spring thingy, cleaned the steering wheel where it touches the metal plate. And when i was testing it with the old relay - nothing was happening. Put the new one and VOILA! BEEP BEEP DONE 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m-mman Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 Methodical (time consuming) testing to prove the location of the problem THEN repairing the problem. Congratulations, you are learning how to fix an old car. 😁 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanFJ1 Posted November 21, 2023 Author Share Posted November 21, 2023 2 hours ago, m-mman said: Congratulations, you are learning how to fix an old car. 😁 Okay, so the last thing that is making my head hurts - is how to take off the trunk opener button from the glove box....??? I'm pretty sure something inside of it just fell apart, thus it's not working... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m-mman Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 The button assembly (with the flower pedal clips) pops out by tilting it to the side. Very similar to how the dash light sockets pop out. A strong possibility is that where the wires plug in they are dirty or loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanFJ1 Posted November 22, 2023 Author Share Posted November 22, 2023 16 hours ago, m-mman said: tilting it to the side. Very similar to how the dash light sockets pop out. Not sure if i understand that. Do you need to twist it and turn it? It turns from side to side, but that's pretty much it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
61polara Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 43 minutes ago, BryanFJ1 said: Not sure if i understand that. Do you need to twist it and turn it? It turns from side to side, but that's pretty much it. It should have prongs all the way around it that hold it in by spring tension of the prongs. Wiggle it from side to side and up and down and it should pop out. You may be able to work a small screwdriver in around the edge to pop it out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfloro Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 (edited) I would take a thin plastic scraper blade and from the front, wedge it under the large "disk". Then gently twist the blade to coax the switch away from the panel. Move the blade to another location and do the same. Follow "around the clock" to break the switch free. Then you should be able to rock the switch from behind to pop it out... Side to side movement and not twisting is what is required to compress the "spring steel petal fingers". Those fingers are what is holding it into place... 61polara was typing as I was typing...! Take your time... Paul PS: You could also use a thin metal paint scraper covered with blue tape (to protect the panel)... Edited November 22, 2023 by pfloro (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanFJ1 Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Hi ya'all! It's been a while So, today an absolutely weird and kinda scary thing happened, made my skin crawl. So i had a small ride around the town tonight. Very warm and pleasant weather. Was on my way to the restaurant to have some food and kinda show off the car (You know what i mean ) So right before pulling into the parking lot i had a a bit speedy run - like 50-60 mph but like just for a few minutes. Pulling to the parking lot, turning the engine off - taking the key out - THE GENERATOR LIGHT GLOWING RED I was like HUH???!! Tried to turn the key back and forth in the ignition - still on! So i was like OKAY, going to take off the battery terminal. Open the hood - SOMETHING SMOKING! It's the darn generator! Touched it - slightly warm and it's stopped smoking pretty much right away. So while i was at the restaurant i just couldn't think of anything but the darn generator! Honestly i was getting ready on the way back home for stalling, fire, you name it. But after 30 minutes i got back to the car, drove it home and everything was fine! No smoke and no generator light without the key in the ignition. So what was it? Maybe something with the current? I haven't tested the voltage with the testing tool yet. But i am going to apparently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
61polara Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Sounds like points sticking in the voltage regulator causing a direct short from the battery to the ground through the generator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m-mman Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 What he said. 👆🏽 There are 3 (points, relays, contacts) under the regulator cover. You will see three connection points on the outside. One manages the field windings One manages the flow of current (amps) The last disconnects the charging system from the battery when the engine is not running. In ancient cars (20s to 30s) there was just one contact or relay. Surprisingly enough it was called the “cut out relay”. When it sticks yes, you are connecting all battery power to ground. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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