1988 Buick Regal Limited parts source

[89RegalBuick]

On 2/13/2023 at 2:48 PM, Matt88RegalCustom said:

Yeah I am currently looking for a hood latch a primary hood latch 

If you have the parts catalog you can find anything for this car if still available. Look for 1988-1993 W-Body Buick Regal Parts Illustration Catalog on eBay.

Edited February 16, 2023 by 89RegalBuick (see edit history)

[NTX5467]

With that GM Part Number, you can than check with Vintage Parts International (NOS/discontinued/obsolete parts re-seller for GM and other parts.  They shiould have a website and 1-800 phone number.  Not just searching via Google.

[Matt88RegalCustom]

On 2/16/2023 at 12:44 AM, 89RegalBuick said:

If you have the parts catalog you can find anything for this car if still available. Look for 1988-1993 W-Body Buick Regal Parts Illustration Catalog on eBay.

Yeah that was what I was thinking about getting but i know what the GM number was for that primary hood latch to and you literally can’t find it at all on Google I tried and it would just say discontinued on websites that showed them. I may have to get one of those thanks for reminding me :).

Edited March 8, 2023 by Matt88RegalCustom (see edit history)

[EmTee]

If the original latch is missing or can't be fixed, the next-best option might be to modify the latch from another GM model that's a close cousin.  That could be from a Pontiac, Olds, Chevy, or a different year or model Buick.

[Matt88RegalCustom]

20 hours ago, EmTee said:

If the original latch is missing or can't be fixed, the next-best option might be to modify the latch from another GM model that's a close cousin.  That could be from a Pontiac, Olds, Chevy, or a different year or model Buick.

Yeah I also had thought of that to which is helpful as well to know :).

[Matt88RegalCustom]

Also the GM number for the primary hood latch I need is GM#10157899 

[Barney Eaton]

Have you looked on Ebay........ I did a month ago and there was at least one 10157899  for sale. 

[Matt88RegalCustom]

14 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

Have you looked on Ebay........ I did a month ago and there was at least one 10157899  for sale. 

Wait really can you check if it’s still up. I never saw that 

[Barney Eaton]

Here are the steps/instructions. 

(1) go to Ebay

(2) type in the part number

(3) look until you find the part you need that has that part number. 

(4) Purchase

(5) wait until it arrives

(6) install

Note you will need some bolts as the part does not come with them. 

If guessiong I would say they are M6 hex head 

[Matt88RegalCustom]

37 minutes ago, Barney Eaton said:

Here are the steps/instructions. 

(1) go to Ebay

(2) type in the part number

(3) look until you find the part you need that has that part number. 

(4) Purchase

(5) wait until it arrives

(6) install

Note you will need some bolts as the part does not come with them. 

If guessiong I would say they are M6 hex head 

Yeah I’ve been looking and it’s appearing no results found. I looked it up on Google and there was one posted on eBay before but it says not in stock anymore.

[Matt88RegalCustom]

Does anyone know where the oil drain plug and the oil filter are in these cars because I need to oil change my car and it’s a struggle to find it so if anyone knows and could send pictures if you are able to I would greatly appreciate it.

Edited March 31, 2023 by Matt88RegalCustom (see edit history)

[dship]

Have you taken on the task of just crawling under the car to look?  Oil pan and oil filter will be quite obvious.

[Matt88RegalCustom]

1 hour ago, dship said:

Have you taken on the task of just crawling under the car to look?  Oil pan and oil filter will be quite obvious.

Yes I have have put it on ramps as well. I just don’t want to mess up and take out the wrong screw. It’s a 2.8L V6 engine in the car but im not exactly sure where the oil drain is or the oil filter which I thought was fairly easy to find. 

Edited March 31, 2023 by Matt88RegalCustom (see edit history)

[Barney Eaton]

The transmission does NOT have a drain plug so only the oil pan is in play.

The oil filter is on the passenger side of the engine, and is easiest to change from under the car

here are the common numbers

AC = 47

FRAM = 3387A   OR  3354

PUROLATOR = L10111

WIX = 51040

[Matt88RegalCustom]

15 minutes ago, Barney Eaton said:

The transmission does NOT have a drain plug so only the oil pan is in play.

The oil filter is on the passenger side of the engine, and is easiest to change from under the car

here are the common numbers

AC = 47

FRAM = 3387A   OR  3354

PUROLATOR = L10111

WIX = 51040

Alright I will make sure to check after. Is the oil pan right below the engine and would those have numbers on them to?.

[rocketraider]

Let's try to NOT forget we were all 17 once and didn't know much about cars. 

 

You can probably find a decent how-to video on YouTube.

 

Matt, how are you set for tools? Besides the right size combo wrench or socket and ratchet for the engine oil drain plug, you'll need an oil drain pan and an oil filter wrench. You can find both at Harbor Freight or Walmart.

 

If there's a NAPA close by get your oil and filter there. A NAPA Gold (made by WIX) is a very good filter as is NAPA's house brand synthetic blend oil. 10W30 should be good for your car.

 

After you get the old oil and filter out of the car, good practice is to fill the new oil filter with fresh oil and lubricate the rubber ring on it. Wipe the sealing surface on the engine clean, then install the new filter hand tight. Then hand tighten it about 3/4 turn more. Don't tighten it with the filter wrench, you'll hate yourself next time you take the filter off!

 

Good luck, young'un. When I started changing my own oil my dad wouldn't hear to me changing oil or any other service work on his cars because he was convinced I'd screw up (his favorite name for me was "shitforbrains"🙄). Never mind I did a more conscientious and thorough job than the jackleg he paid to do it. So I successfully worked on my stuff, uncles' stuff and neighbors' stuff, but I wouldn't touch anything he had.

[Matt88RegalCustom]

12 minutes ago, rocketraider said:

Let's try to NOT forget we were all 17 once and didn't know much about cars. 

 

You can probably find a decent how-to video on YouTube.

 

Matt, how are you set for tools? Besides the right size combo wrench or socket and ratchet for the engine oil drain plug, you'll need an oil drain pan and an oil filter wrench. You can find both at Harbor Freight or Walmart.

 

If there's a NAPA close by get your oil and filter there. A NAPA Gold (made by WIX) is a very good filter as is NAPA's house brand synthetic blend oil. 10W30 should be good for your car.

 

After you get the old oil and filter out of the car, good practice is to fill the new oil filter with fresh oil and lubricate the rubber ring on it. Wipe the sealing surface on the engine clean, then install the new filter hand tight. Then hand tighten it about 3/4 turn more. Don't tighten it with the filter wrench, you'll hate yourself next time you take the filter off!

 

Good luck, young'un. When I started changing my own oil my dad wouldn't hear to me changing oil or any other service work on his cars because he was convinced I'd screw up (his favorite name for me was "shitforbrains"🙄). Never mind I did a more conscientious and thorough job than the jackleg he paid to do it. So I successfully worked on my stuff, uncles' stuff and neighbors' stuff, but I wouldn't touch anything he had.

Thank you for having my back on this and convincing me the only problem with trying to find a video is that I couldn’t find one I searched all over the web and this is the one website where you can get reliable sources and support 

[rocketraider]

Matt, this the closest thing I could find on a W10 platform Regal. Hope this helps showing you where things are.

 

 

[Matt88RegalCustom]

2 hours ago, rocketraider said:

Matt, this the closest thing I could find on a W10 platform Regal. Hope this helps showing you where things are.

 

 

I appreciate you searching for it thank you. I think it may be different because it has a different engine but if that’s the case it will help for my other car car that’s got the exact same engine lol. Again I really appreciate it but if you do find somehow a W10 regal one like mine feel free to shoot my way :)

[60FlatTop]

22 hours ago, rocketraider said:

Besides the right size combo wrench or socket and ratchet for the engine oil drain plug,

I don't get under a car for an oil change without my trusty Dogbone wrench.

I have an inch one and a metric. I was under 17 when I got the first one. I broke the first one while I was still in High School taking out a steering box. With my hands- No cheater on it!

 

They don't get high positions on the needed tool list but I find they save a lot of trips under the car. Under 15 bucks.

[rocketraider]

And 6 point to boot. 

 

Dangit Bernie. Now ya gonna make me go buy one!🤪

[NTX5467]

In order to do the filter "right", get a oil filter wrench which is a cup-shaped item with a ratchet wrench hole in it.  Must fit the filter tightly.  Works better than other types for me.

 

Before YouTube was even a thought, if I was thinking about doing something myself, I'd take the car to a trusted mechanic and watch as THEY did the deal.  I'd take note of how they did it and with what tools.  That was better than watching a video, to me.  And good training, too.

 

Also go down to the auto supply or big box discount store and get a oil drain pan/storage item.  As the oil drains into it, when you put a plug in that oil hole and raise the pan to vertical, you can carry it around and store the oil for disposal at an auto supply or similar.  Most of these are black plastic.  DO get some spray brake cleaner to clean up any drips which might happen during and after the oil change.  A roll of thicker paper towels can be needed, too.

 

AND be sure to write down the date and mileage when you did the deal.  Additionally, look at the suspension parts for any grease fittings which might be there and might need some attention.  Lower ball joints and steering outer tie-rod ends and such.

 

Personally, I find it quite relaxing and stress relieving to lay under the car and do an oil change.  Taking time to see what else I can see under there, too.

 

Take your time and ENJOY!

NTX5467

[old-tank]

9 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

AND be sure to write down the date and mileage when you did the deal.

Write it on the filter....date and mileage.

Edited April 2, 2023 by old-tank (see edit history)

[rocketraider]

10 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

get a oil drain pan/storage item.  As the oil drains into it, when you put a plug in that oil hole and raise the pan to vertical, you can carry it around and store the oil for disposal at an auto supply or similar.  Most of these are black plastic.

I have several of these.I have several because, while the pan itself holds up well, that little white plastic plug in the middle of the drainboard area tends to dry rot and fall apart making the whole thing pretty much useless for toting it around full of oil to take to the recycler. Little white plug is not serviced separately 😡.

 

If I buy another one it will probably be this type. Much better design that didn't exist when I bought the others!

 

[NTX5467]

The first ones I bought were the round ones.  Never had issues with the white plugs, though.  The later ones were like the bottom item.  Easier to handle and took up less floor space for storage (with used oil in it), just make sure that red cap is tight when you lay it down to use!

 

NTX5467

[Matt88RegalCustom]

21 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

The first ones I bought were the round ones.  Never had issues with the white plugs, though.  The later ones were like the bottom item.  Easier to handle and took up less floor space for storage (with used oil in it), just make sure that red cap is tight when you lay it down to use!

 

NTX5467

Yeah same here I have that and I’m just waiting to use it.

[Matt88RegalCustom]

So I found the drain plug but that bolt is stuck on there really good I tried a lot. Does anyone Have any recommendations on how to fix it.

[rocketraider]

How long is the wrench you're using, and make sure you're turning the drain plug the right way. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Sometimes when you're under a car you get disoriented.

 

Use longest wrench you have, then use a hammer to tap the wrench the direction you want the drain plug to turn. It should break loose. Fingers crossed that the last one to change the oil wasn't a gorilla and stripped the threads.

 

Matt- you never told us how you're set for tools. 

[dship]

If you do get the plug off successfully, don't reuse the old one.  Buy a new one with a flexible washer when you reattach.  Most auto stores will have them. 

[EmTee]

On 4/11/2023 at 2:56 PM, rocketraider said:

use a hammer to tap the wrench

...or use an impact wrench set to LOOSEN.  The impact shock should break it loose.

[Matt88RegalCustom]

On 4/11/2023 at 2:56 PM, rocketraider said:

How long is the wrench you're using, and make sure you're turning the drain plug the right way. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Sometimes when you're under a car you get disoriented.

 

Use longest wrench you have, then use a hammer to tap the wrench the direction you want the drain plug to turn. It should break loose. Fingers crossed that the last one to change the oil wasn't a gorilla and stripped the threads.

 

Matt- you never told us how you're set for tools. 

I was using a the back of a wrench to try to get it off I think the bolt has been on for such a long time that it’s frozen on there. I need to get more tools as well so if there’s any brands or special tools you recommend I would appreciate it. I tried getting the drain plug off for 3 hours at least and it wouldn’t budge I tried hammering it a few days ago with the wrench on it and the ratchet I have doesn’t lock on because it’s bumping against another pan of some sort.

[Matt88RegalCustom]

On 4/11/2023 at 2:56 PM, rocketraider said:

How long is the wrench you're using, and make sure you're turning the drain plug the right way. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Sometimes when you're under a car you get disoriented.

 

Use longest wrench you have, then use a hammer to tap the wrench the direction you want the drain plug to turn. It should break loose. Fingers crossed that the last one to change the oil wasn't a gorilla and stripped the threads.

 

Matt- you never told us how you're set for tools. 

It wasn’t that big and it was the only one I had that fit the bolt. It’s pretty stripped to be honest the wrench locks on and I tried using some WD40 to loosen the bolt to get any dirt or mud that could of been stuck under there for all the time it was sitting. And I’m not sure if I’m turning it the wrong way because I tried it both ways.

[Matt88RegalCustom]

3 hours ago, EmTee said:

...or use an impact wrench set to LOOSEN.  The impact shock should break it loose.

Don’t have an impact wrench but I was thinking out getting one any recommendations for which one I should get?

[rocketraider]

Unless you're making your living with them, Craftsman, Stanley, even Northern Tool and Harbor Freight tools will work fine for you at this time. That goes for hand tools and air tools.

 

Or haunt garage sales, estate auctions and flea markets. You might be amazed at the good name brand tools you find. I have friends who've done OK buying tools at pawn shops but the nature of that business makes me uneasy. I always wonder if the items are stolen.

 

I know you're frustrated with the drain plug. We've all been there and it's unfortunately part of the game when you're following someone else's janky work. There are people in this world who should never be allowed around tools.

 

If you use an air impact, set it on the lowest setting to start. The hammer action should break the plug loose. If needed adjust the air setting higher until it breaks it loose.

[JohnD1956]

3 hours ago, Matt88RegalCustom said:

I was using a the back of a wrench to try to get it off I think the bolt has been on for such a long time that it’s frozen on there. I need to get more tools as well so if there’s any brands or special tools you recommend I would appreciate it. I tried getting the drain plug off for 3 hours at least and it wouldn’t budge I tried hammering it a few days ago with the wrench on it and the ratchet I have doesn’t lock on because it’s bumping against another pan of some sort.

If I recall correctly that bolt is towards the back of the car.  I think it was a 14 mm wrench. If it is towards the back then with a wrench pointing straight down from the bolt you push or pull, from the closest to the free end possible, towards the passengers side of the car.  If you have the car high enough and well supported you may be able to interlock a 2nd wrench onto that open end, thus multiplying your leverage. 

[Matt88RegalCustom]

6 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

If I recall correctly that bolt is towards the back of the car.  I think it was a 14 mm wrench. If it is towards the back then with a wrench pointing straight down from the bolt you push or pull, from the closest to the free end possible, towards the passengers side of the car.  If you have the car high enough and well supported you may be able to interlock a 2nd wrench onto that open end, thus multiplying your leverage. 

The oil pan is right under the engine and the drain plug is facing on an angle and I either was using a 13 or 14 either one of those it was the back of a wrench I was using. 

[Barney Eaton]

I have started using pads under my catch pan............. the pads you get for a kids bed if they have accidents at night.   These make the oil change a mess free

deal.    My Enclave has a engine mount that also is a catch tray under the oil filter.    So if there are any drips they end up in the engine mount then drain into the catch

pan.    However,  the pan drain plug is far enough away from the engine mount the catch pan will not catch both at the same time.   Also my shop is full and I change oil 

in front of the shop..... at the very end there is this little stream of oil and then the wind blows and the oil misses the pan.

The pad solves all these problems.......... when you get done put everything away and throw the pad in the trash and the driveway has no spills. 

[EmTee]

9 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

I have started using pads under my catch pan...

I use a piece of cardboard.  I keep it near my oil change stuff and use it over and over until it gets too dirty.  Then I throw it away and get a new piece.

[Barney Eaton]

Whatever works for you............. 

I have a couple of creepers but it has been years since I used them.    

Have found that the plastic exercise pads work well.... give you a little cushion, if it is cold, you are not in direct contact with the concrete. 

I also tried those square interlocking pads (about 2 ft square)  they are thicker than the exercise pads and you can make a larger area 

to work on by making them wider.    At one time you could get a pack of 4 from "5 UNDER"  for $5.   

Either of the above will also work with an oil change but you must wipe the surface clean after use....and a large spill just runs off the side.  

[Matt88RegalCustom]

So I currently am having a problem with my headlights. My high beams, blinkers, Hazard all work but my head lights or the fog lights work. I just bought brand new headlights and they don’t work and the wires connecting to the headlights are in perfect shape so I don’t exactly know how to fix this problem or where the wires I need to check are so if anyone has anything to give me for info I would greatly appreciate it.