Rafz66riv Posted November 23, 2022 Share Posted November 23, 2022 (edited) Does anyone know if either one of the brake boosters are interchange able with a 66 riv booster. I’ve been looking everywhere and I can find a oem one for sale. If these don’t work does anyone know where I can get one that would? thank you Edited November 23, 2022 by Rafz66riv (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted November 23, 2022 Share Posted November 23, 2022 Not sure - Here is a pic of an original 66 Bendix Booster. If you want to convert to a dual master then a combo booster and master from a 67-70 should work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted November 23, 2022 Author Share Posted November 23, 2022 19 minutes ago, JZRIV said: Not sure - Here is a pic of an original 66 Bendix Booster. If you want to convert to a dual master then a combo booster and master from a 67-70 should work. I think Iam going to stick with single pot master. Iam just trying to replace all the brake stuff because my rear brakes keep on sticking/ locking up after awhile of driving it and i’am not sure why. I’ve change all the brakes,hardware, and they’re adjusted. But for some reason they just stick after awhile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted November 23, 2022 Author Share Posted November 23, 2022 24 minutes ago, JZRIV said: Not sure - Here is a pic of an original 66 Bendix Booster. If you want to convert to a dual master then a combo booster and master from a 67-70 should work. Also do you have a dual master? If so would you recommend it over the single. I’ve head a lot of mixed feelings on wether or not which is better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 24, 2022 Share Posted November 24, 2022 They both apply the correct amount of pressure to both front and rear brakes. Many single reservoirs are still good at 60 yeas old. The difference is that with a dual master cylinder, if one line springs a leak, the other is still viable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted November 24, 2022 Share Posted November 24, 2022 Converting to dual MC is a personal choice. We can't dispute the increased safety that a dual system provides. I chose to stay with the single on the 66 restoration and the main reason was originality so I don't see a problem maintaining the single reservoir MC provided the following: The entire brake system has been rebuilt with quality parts and the single MC has been sent out to a specialty shop for brass sleeving and rebuild to improve longevity. The quality of over-the-counter MC's today can't be trusted in my opinion hence the suggestion to send our for professional sleeving/rebuild. Lastly, make sure the emergency/parking brake is working properly. Your rear brakes should not be locking up. Incorrect assembly issues are the primary reason for drum brake performance problems. Have you replaced the rubber flex hoses? 2 in front 1 in rear? Have you had the drums trued/machined? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 24, 2022 Share Posted November 24, 2022 14 hours ago, Rafz66riv said: ...my rear brakes keep on sticking/ locking up after awhile of driving it and i’am not sure why. I'll tell you why -- replace the rear brake hose. I had the same issue with my '67 until I replaced the hose between the frame and axle. The old one wouldn't pass any air when I tested it with my air hose. I cut the old hose and saw it had disintegrated and was collapsed internally. Fluid was leaking between the collapsed core and the jacket. It looked OK from the outside... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dship Posted November 24, 2022 Share Posted November 24, 2022 My advice and one I always follow is that whenever one works on car brakes, always include replacing the flexible brake hoses. They might look OK on the outside, but most likely are disintegrating on the inside. A very small price to pay for safety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted November 24, 2022 Author Share Posted November 24, 2022 4 hours ago, JZRIV said: Converting to dual MC is a personal choice. We can't dispute the increased safety that a dual system provides. I chose to stay with the single on the 66 restoration and the main reason was originality so I don't see a problem maintaining the single reservoir MC provided the following: The entire brake system has been rebuilt with quality parts and the single MC has been sent out to a specialty shop for brass sleeving and rebuild to improve longevity. The quality of over-the-counter MC's today can't be trusted in my opinion hence the suggestion to send our for professional sleeving/rebuild. Lastly, make sure the emergency/parking brake is working properly. Your rear brakes should not be locking up. Incorrect assembly issues are the primary reason for drum brake performance problems. Have you replaced the rubber flex hoses? 2 in front 1 in rear? Have you had the drums trued/machined? 2 hours ago, EmTee said: I'll tell you why -- replace the rear brake hose. I had the same issue with my '67 until I replaced the hose between the frame and axle. The old one wouldn't pass any air when I tested it with my air hose. I cut the old hose and saw it had disintegrated and was collapsed internally. Fluid was leaking between the collapsed core and the jacket. It looked OK from the outside... Damn, that’s the only thing I didn’t do was change those hoses. I replaces everything else but those because they looked nice. Iam going to order them today. Thank you 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 25, 2022 Share Posted November 25, 2022 How's your brake boost? I thought I had a bad booster and was getting up the nerve to remove it and send it out for rebuilding. I changed my hoses and "voila" - power brakes returned and the hard pedal was gone! I read through the troubleshooting section of the shop manual and sure enough, one potential cause for hard pedal is a restriction in the hydraulic line... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted November 27, 2022 Author Share Posted November 27, 2022 (edited) On 11/24/2022 at 5:30 PM, EmTee said: How's your brake boost? I thought I had a bad booster and was getting up the nerve to remove it and send it out for rebuilding. I changed my hoses and "voila" - power brakes returned and the hard pedal was gone! I read through the troubleshooting section of the shop manual and sure enough, one potential cause for hard pedal is a restriction in the hydraulic line... The boost is good, the pedal isn’t hella hard and doesn’t talk a lot for it to start braking. It just for some reason starts to stick or lock up after awhile of driving. The only reason why I wanted to change the booster and the master cylinder was because I’ve done all the brakes except for the hoses and the brakes are starting to lock up. And the only reason why I replaced them is because it fully Locked up on me and I couldn’t drive it. But I had to change them regardless because I had just bought the car and didn’t have an idea of what the brakes looked like Edited November 27, 2022 by Rafz66riv (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 On 11/24/2022 at 8:10 AM, EmTee said: It looked OK from the outside... EmTee, I actually check the brake fluid bleed fitting to make sure it is not corroded. I guess I like to keep items maintained. It is satisfying to have your collector car work they way it should. I put yellow dust caps on my front end grease fittings to make the fittings easy to find and serve as a reminder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 Rafz66riv, Check the adjustment on the pushrod between the master & the booster "Pin" sticking out. They make a tool to check this. IF it were myself I would pull back the master & turn the screw in one turn to see where that brings you. Who knows it may just solve the problem you are having. Probably take you 10-15 minutes or so. No need to remove or loosen any brake lines, just pull the master back far enough to make the adjustment. Tom T. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted April 2, 2023 Share Posted April 2, 2023 well it was the booster i changed it with web site pirate jack and the booster model 9" PB9002B the pedal brake is good and the brake efficient GOOD NEW ! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted April 17, 2023 Share Posted April 17, 2023 here my old booster....🥴 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted April 18, 2023 Share Posted April 18, 2023 Contact Harmon's Classic Brakes in GA Home - Harmon Classic Brakes 678.880.9299 Contact - Harmon Classic Brakes They can answer all questions you might have. I highly recommend them to rebuild your booster. They did mine for my 68, even applying the gold color plating to it. Or you can get it repainted black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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