Mister Fab Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 Hello, I'll start to remove the engine of my 67 this weekend. I've already removed engines on european cars, but this will be my first V8. What are the best steps to do it? I tried to find in the chassis manual, but I didn't Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 13 hours ago, Mister Fab said: What are the best steps to do it? Transmission as well or just the Engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Balzer Posted September 24, 2022 Share Posted September 24, 2022 16 hours ago, Mister Fab said: I tried to find in the chassis manual, but I didn't Both of these auctions are still available as of 23SEP22 https://www.ebay.com/itm/403629103929?hash=item5dfa2b5b39:g:OZ4AAOSwPjpiayq3&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsBmnZ8wz1ye2NxYh7%2Bnj5aFwtkRjiI4e0EAJmoPGxLE2RKYpBBjnTulA4ExKEqMGfM23dQMCYmSbg0N0TmKOTj6DHuqrIiihSZfBGFtz%2FiXYIyiwuXQdwDNW%2FYxQ2j4VsrvGzVdRRkq10e097jy4CDtPetZGWI69t%2FqmbmKwaqHBet86WuEbs0AvrLmxXZSj0kfD7iglE4mQkOMS9TlWocG3QVPsWn5eqX9TEIzTNaXi|tkp%3ABk9SR6rTxs7tYA https://www.ebay.com/itm/394217844065?hash=item5bc936ed61:g:oiwAAOSwXZZjCpxx&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsHwlKem3heRAPM7%2B8uTZjIKKGwvk1Ybr8u9FKO8wCBrk98niZCT8GAEB8P%2BLTMdDLi0wyKDfZq5AmQcqGgqWlrTWQXMCjFoy6WeMB2uEbsxqFgyt4LepFDjVvv6bqXV0kwQLkzoo%2FpJW3lavljcyUVVNqO%2Fi3%2F%2F%2BrFy3Pl3YAuqHBsapW%2BwBqNXfMHm9FmeTAYkQ7jeZ2ir4IpHAYQ%2FCnN7JbvU5Xjj%2FHnu6auPtSonj|tkp%3ABk9SR6rTxs7tYA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted September 24, 2022 Share Posted September 24, 2022 In a nutshell this is the basics. Probably forgetting something as no coffee yet this morning. Remove hood, Drain oil and coolant, Remove radiator, disconnect fuel lines from pump, heater hoses, wiring harness from engine, battery cables, Starter harness, transmission modulator vacuum line to carb, brake booster vac line, Power steering pump and set aside or disconnect hoses and leave on engine, Remove A/C compressor, throttle linkage , and exhaust pipes from manifolds. Get your engine lifting apparatus in place under light tension. Support transmission under pan, unbolt rear mount, remove trans splash pan to expose converter and rotate engine to remove all torque converter bolts. Unbolt the driveshaft center support bearing housing, Unbolt transmission from engine and slide back just enough so converter clears engine. Note: Its important to have engine supported from above so when it breaks free from tranny it doesn't rock backwards stressing the motor mounts. Remove motor mounts and lift engine out onto your engine stand. Using an engine load leveler is nice to balance weight front to back, or a lift plate attached to intake in place of carb is nice also but I am still old school just attach ( Bolted using existing threaded holes ) a suitable piece of chain diagonal to front of one head and the rear of the other and hook hoist hook in middle. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Fab Posted September 24, 2022 Author Share Posted September 24, 2022 12 hours ago, XframeFX said: Transmission as well or just the Engine? Transmission too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted September 24, 2022 Share Posted September 24, 2022 40 minutes ago, Mister Fab said: Transmission too On a '66-'70 it's probably easier to remove each separately. Since the second-gen E-body was set up to support front-wheel drive (Eldorado & Toronado), there's plenty of room between the rear of the engine and the firewall to access the bellhousing bolts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Fab Posted September 24, 2022 Author Share Posted September 24, 2022 I finally removed All the front, as I will also work on the body painting during the winter. Also found an hidden hole under a riveted metal sheet, under the battery compartment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted September 26, 2022 Share Posted September 26, 2022 Well, with the radiator support removed you should be able to remove the engine and transmission as an assembly without any trouble... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodA67Riv Posted September 26, 2022 Share Posted September 26, 2022 Typical problem with the battery tray area. Years of battery acid dripping down onto the tray (back when the batteries had to be periodically filled with distilled water). Here's mine. 😨 Good luck! Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Fab Posted September 28, 2022 Author Share Posted September 28, 2022 On 9/27/2022 at 12:41 AM, RodA67Riv said: Typical problem with the battery tray area. Years of battery acid dripping down onto the tray (back when the batteries had to be periodically filled with distilled water). Here's mine. 😨 Good luck! Rod Ok, mine is not that bas after all!! As I'll work on the body painting after fixing the engine, I'll repair this and solder a clean metal sheet 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Fab Posted October 21, 2022 Author Share Posted October 21, 2022 Hello all, I am back to work on the car after a few vacation in Texas and a lot of parts in my suitcase!! 😁 I was lucky with french customs 😅 Has anyone already installed the 430 on that kind of stand? Did you install it on transmission side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 Mount the engine to the stand using bolts through the transmission mounting interface at the back of the engine block. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Fab Posted October 21, 2022 Author Share Posted October 21, 2022 I'll need to find long bolts with the right thread, or remove the 4 supports and make an intermediary plate 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 Find the correct bolts. Chances are the flex plate will still be attached and or the crank hub will extend beyond the plane of the back of the block. Make sure that when you bolt the engine on the stand that you mount it so that it is balanced top to bottom so that you can easily rotate the engine as needed. That last tid bit of info comes from experience. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted October 22, 2022 Share Posted October 22, 2022 AND, get a better engine stand than the one pictured, preferably one with two legs at the bottom. As the engine is being assembled it gets quit heavy & can tilt easily with that type of stand. Tom T. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 22, 2022 Share Posted October 22, 2022 Don't forget to put a big dollop of wheel bearing grease on the engine stand pivot. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Fab Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 Thank you for all your advices guys!!👍🙂 I ordered the bolts 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Fab Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 On 10/21/2022 at 6:50 PM, RivNut said: Find the correct bolts. Chances are the flex plate will still be attached and or the crank hub will extend beyond the plane of the back of the block. Make sure that when you bolt the engine on the stand that you mount it so that it is balanced top to bottom so that you can easily rotate the engine as needed. That last tid bit of info comes from experience. One of my friends told me also that. The stand axis must be centered higher than the axis of the crankshaft if I am right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Where ever it sits so it can be rotated. Lining up the rotating part of the stand with the crankshaft is NOT the balance point. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 My comment of the grease will help that. I had a Buick straight eight on a stand once. You really had to grunt to rotate that one. But it can be done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Fab Posted November 8, 2022 Author Share Posted November 8, 2022 (edited) Hi all! Back on this topic about my 430 rebuild. A lot of the bolts are to replace, like timing cover and water pump. Any advice where to find a full bolt kit? I've checked alloybolts.com for stainless kit with Allen heads. Has someone already used those? Edited November 8, 2022 by Mister Fab (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodneybeauchamp Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 Hi, welcome to the world of Buick Rivieras. On 11/9/2022 at 8:31 AM, Mister Fab said: Hi all! Back on this topic about my 430 rebuild. A lot of the bolts are to replace, like timing cover and water pump. Any advice where to find a full bolt kit? I've checked alloybolts.com for stainless kit with Allen heads. Has someone already used those? I purchased my bolt kit from Centreville Auto along with a new timing cover. The stainless steel bolt kit included ones for the water pump. Several of these bolts go into the water jackets so threads need to be coated with a suitable sealant. Kit in their listing below. Remove the cover first to inspect it and confirm it is usable. Mine wasnt 😟😟😟😟 Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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