RodA67Riv

Typical problem with the battery tray area. Years of battery acid dripping down onto the tray (back when the batteries had to be periodically filled with distilled water). Here's mine. 😨 Good luck! Rod

Perhaps... without the fan clutch, the fan is sitting too far away from the radiator to pull air thru it sufficiently. I suspect that without the clutch, that the fan is sitting behind the shroud allowing some air to be pulled around (instead of thru) the radiator. I would still opt for having the radiator flushed, or better yet, re-cored. You don't ever want to get into an overheating situation. A well operating radiator is a good investment.

Hi Philip, The absence of the water valve might reduce some of the coolant flow thru the radiator, but I wouldn't think that that would be a significant issue. I would lean towards a blockage in the radiator or a problem with the fan clutch. Check that the fan clutch is engaging when the engine is warmed up. There should be good resistance on the ability to turn the fan when the engine is hot - compare it to your ability to turn the fan when the engine is cold. I'm also assuming that the fan shroud is in place. Let us know. Regards, Rod

Excellent thought! I just checked the parts book and there's only a single part # for the lower door molding. Thanks!

Keep 'em coming. These are great!

bumping this topic

One other thought... going back to the original problem which is that the mirror doesn't stay in position when you're driving. Does the adjustment knob also move around semi-freely? From your picture, it looks like there's a spring washer in the assembly which presumably would keep tension on the knob. Maybe the issue is with the knob's free play and not the cables? If so, check the spring washer. Maybe try flipping it over if it's not pushing on the knob correctly. And... last thought... Does this screw do anything to tighten the tension on the mirror itself?

Good luck. Maybe try working with these and form them into shape. Seems like you'll need a decent crimping tool as well. Maybe something like this.

If you end up having to recap... I would suggest cutting the caps off with a dremmel cutting wheel. Slice down the length of the cap to create a spreadable gap while leaving the cable intact so that the cable length is unaffected. Use a screwdriver to spread the gap until the cap is free from the cable. Or... if you have the caps, replace the wire cables altogether remembering to insert the cables into the spring sleeve before capping them on both ends. 🤪

Looks like the valve was removed at some point. Luckily, there are replacement units available if you want to pursue getting one.

Hello Philippe, I'm sorry, I don't have a nailhead as my '67 is a 430, otherwise I would take a picture for you from my own engine. I found a couple of nailhead engine pictures online which should help you identify the valve. If you follow the heater core coolant hose which passes through the firewall towards the intake manifold, you should find the water valve in line with the hose. Best of luck, Rod

The water valve diaphragm is a vacuum activated valve which will control the flow of engine coolant through the cabin heater core. When the cabin temperature calls for heat, the valve is closed allowing the engine coolant to pass through the heater core where the blower fan can then move air through the core and produce warm air in the cabin. Conversely, when the cabin temperature does not call for heat, the valve is opened and coolant is bypassed thus not passing through the heater core. The open (bypassed) position would be especially important when the AC is running.

Try using a latching relay to feed power to the blue wire on the aftermarket antenna. Red wire goes to a fused constant +12v supply. Black to ground. The blue wire receives +12v from modern radios when they are turned on and 0v when they are turned off. Use the latching relay to provide 12v to the blue wire. Wire the console switch to activate the 'on' latch on the relay when pressed 'up' and de-activate the latch when pressed 'down'. In the diagram below for the referenced latching relay (available on Amazon), wire the console switch 'up' to 'set' on the relay, and 'down' to 'rst'. Note that this relay requires ground to the 'set' and 'rst' inputs, so the console switch positive will need to be cut and wired to ground. Use the normally open relay to feed +12v to the blue wire on the antenna. DPST 1NO 1NC 8Amp Latching Relay Module (DC 12V): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Hello everyone. I'm looking to replace the RH (passenger) lower door trim on my '67. Anyone have a lead on where I might find one? Thanks! Rod ROA member: 15162

Hi Tom, Good to hear from you. Hope you're doing well. Key on @coil: 5.42v. Key on @battery: 12.0v. Seems to be working fine. Thanks for the tip! Cheers, Rod