Need help with a 1934........

[edinmass]

Gentelmen, a 1934 Buick that has sleeves protecting the plugs........do they slide out? If so, these are very tight. Can't get a plug socket on them. I'm certain I will get the correct answer here.......best, Ed

[Grimy]

Ed, I had a 1934 Buick 56S for many years after learning to drive on it, and have parted out several similar cars, but never saw those inserts.  I'm willing to wager (a small wager) that they are retained in place by the base of the spark plugs, and were likely intended to prevent oil from being pushed out past the spark plug threads.  I think you'll need a thin wall spark plug socket.

[Grimy]

Just now, Grimy said:

Ed, I had a 1934 Buick 56S for many years after learning to drive on it, and have parted out several similar cars, but never saw those inserts.  I'm willing to wager (a small wager) that they are retained in place by the base of the spark plugs, and were likely intended to prevent oil from being pushed out past the spark plug threads.  I think you'll need a thin wall spark plug socket.

It MAY take a stamped plug socket such as furnished with leaf blowers and lawnmowers.

[32buick67]

Some of us use a deep 7/8" socket and we grind the end down to clear the ID of the spark plug well.

Others have said this Snapon tool works, but I don't know for sure if it works out of the box or if it also needs to be ground down.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Deep%2C-Inches%2C-Chrome/3-8"-Drive-6-Point-SAE-7%2F8"-Flank-Drive-Deep-Socket/SFS281

 

I think I paid $6 for a 7/8" deep socket with a 3/8" drive from Northern Tool, and ground it down on a bench grinder.

At approx 20-30lbft of torque on the 18mm spark plug, the thinned wall of the 7/8" socket won't cause an issue.

 

The original spark plug wells are supposed to be set in white lead and some may loosen over time (oil seeps into the well) and others might still be holding strong. 

If you take the valve cover off and look down where the push rods are, you can probably see the tubes inside the head like my 32.

 

I don't know what will happen if they are permanently removed, or temporarily removed so you can use a standard unmodified socket.  It might be difficult to reseat them, maybe someone has done this successfully and has a procedure.  Be careful not to drop metal debris down onto the camshaft and into the oil pan.

 

[edinmass]

32buick67.......thanks for the input. I literally have 17 Snap On sockets for spark plugs and none will do the job. I thought I was missing something. I’ll get a cheap socket and grind it down.........looks like it’s gonna be very thin when I’m done. 👍👍👍

[32buick67]

I just measured the OD on the ground socket, its 1.0625", and I ground about 3/4" from the edge back to the drive end.

 

The Snapon socket is 1.156" according to their website, and probably won't fit out of the box.

 

Wear gloves and use a long extension, griding sockets takes a while and gets quite hot.

[NailheadBob]

ED,

 

You may try a Mac Tools socket # SPSEG1 , it is a strange looking socket black in color, but very thin wall, specialty socket for small block Chevys with headers.

 

Bob

[Grimy]

I'll bet the aftermarket accessory tubes came with their own stamped-metal thin-wall socket wrench which immediately was tossed after installation.  Before you pizz away quality time with a grinder, use the stamped metal wrench that came with your leaf blower.

[edinmass]

George.......my leaf blower is battery operated! By city bylaw!  I’ll get a cheap socket and grind it down........

[HarryLime]

I have turned sockets down for clearance in the lathe . Grinding seems slow irregular effort . Best Wishes :)

[Grimy]

1 minute ago, edinmass said:

George.......my leaf blower is battery operated! By city bylaw!  I’ll get a cheap socket and grind it down........

Ed, you're always complaining about Calif, but ICE lawn engines won't be banned for new sale here until 2025!  My leaf blower is 25 yrs old and when changing a plug 2 weeks ago had to find the stamped plug wrench which did the job quickly.

[32buick67]

3 hours ago, HarryLime said:

I have turned sockets down for clearance in the lathe . Grinding seems slow irregular effort . Best Wishes

Completely agree, turning is best and has pro results, but my lathe is kaputnik, so I must grind for now...

[1937McBuick]

My biggest concern would be the plugs being too tight or partially seized and a modified socket or stamped steel socket splitting open and getting wedged in the small gap before that possible one stubborn plug gives in and loosens.

 

Seems there's always that one in the bunch that refuses to surrender.  I hope that's not your case.  The engine your working on appears to be in decent shape, not a pile of rusted scrap and the plug cavities are clean without a bunch of crap in them.  Blow them out to make sure.

 

Machining the socket would give you the most uniform results that might lend itself to its own integral strength to do the job.  Would a modified impact socket be better than a "cheap off-shore" piece of crap?

 

When your done with it,  it becomes part of your "one-time" specialty tool collection that never gets used again or lent out to friends who need it for the same job.

 

Let us know how it goes.

 

 

Edited December 30, 2021 by 1937McBuick (see edit history)

[pont35cpe]

I have a Herbrand 1/2" drive plug socket, made for Buick, pt#DS28B  I`ve had this socket 25+yr, have never seen another. OD 1.135"

[Wayne R]

edinmass  go to ebay  item number---203244864774      Chinese   they sell alot.

 

Or              go to ebay  item number---201434600961   in Chicago     usa.

 

These are all used for BMW- Nissan, and Mini--all thin wall.

May help.

[1937McBuick]

Do they come in the plug size he needs?

 

I thought someone said 7/8.

[Robert Engle]

I can't speak for 1934 engines, but from 1931 through 1933 the spark plug holes had a tube to seal the oil galley.  If you remove the tube the plug area will be open to the oil galley.  They are NOT an aftermarket item.  If you need to remove one of the tubes, you must remove the spark plug first. then if you run your finger down along the edge of the tube, you will feel a spot where the tube has a slightly smaller diameter.  Measure the diameter of this smaller diameter and the diameter just past the reduced ring.  Make a thick washer slightly smaller than the larger diameter.  Then flatten two sides to width of the smaller diameter.  drill a 3/8" hole in the center and elongate the hole. Take a 5/16" threaded rod slip the washer onto the rod and put a nut on the end.  You then need to take a of steel with a 3/8" hole and put on the rod.  put a 5/16" washer and nut on the end.  This will make a slide hammer.

 

 

Tilt the washer and work it past the reduced area and then straighten the washer and pull the washer up against the reduced area and use the slide to to hammer outward until the tube pops out.  

 

I'll search for my tool today and post a picture if I find it.

 

in the attached photo you can see the tube from the oil galley side.

 

I took a sparkplug socket and ground it down to clear the reduced ring in the sleeve. 

 

Bob Engle

[edinmass]

Thanks fellas. The car has what looks to be new fifty year old plugs in it. The tubes look like they are new, but I’m certain that they are not. This car has been sitting since 1961 or 1962. We only want to pull the plugs to oil the cylinders before it goes up for sale.........

Edited December 30, 2021 by edinmass (see edit history)

[Gene Brink]

Maybe https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W32922-2-Inch-Impact/dp/B00H8A57QC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1N7JM6XD0CNPJ&keywords=thin+wall+7%2F8+inch+socket+1%2F2+drive&qid=1640928339&s=hi&sprefix=thin+wall+7%2F8+inch+socket+1%2F2+drive%2Ctools%2C128&sr=1-4. Outside diameter is 1.0708661417 so, if necessary, a little less material to remove. Good luck.

Edited December 31, 2021 by Gene Brink
Omitted a word (see edit history)