Gene Brink

My '55 wipers worked the same way when I first got the car (talking 40 years ago now) and I pulled the motor apart and cleaned out a lot of hardened grease and greased with fresh stuff and the wipers worked great the six years I had the car. Not a hard job - just be gentle with things (especially the nylon piece that connects to the cable going into the car - it will be fragile). If that does not correct have a professional rebuild the unit.

Re: oil pan modification. Looks like your capacity will be 2 quarts less (maybe a bit more?). Any plans for an external reservoir or will you be okay running less oil? Like Ben - admire how quickly you are getting to things and looking forward to additional postings.

My daughters '65 Classic wipers work perfectly - vacuum of course - even when accelerating (albeit slowly with the 199 c.i. 6). My experience (all with Buick's other than the above Rambler) is that they work pretty well provided the motor is well lubricated (pretty easy job to open up and grease things up) but when the grease hardens they do not work worth a "plug nickel" (whatever that means!) 😊

There certainly is a shortage of people able to drive a manual trans vehicle. My son-in-law is a UPS driver and they have a real shortage of drivers that can drive a stick shift. And (around Los Angeles) that is for a job that is six figures with the crazy overtime around almost any holiday where folks buy gifts. One thing I've noticed watching the large car auctions on TV is that while there isn't a shortage of interest (and willingness to pay $$) in old cars provided they have a new V8 (sadly almost always a SBC 350), automatic transmission, revised suspension, air conditioning, etc... Beautiful stock restorations of pre 1950 cars seem to go for much less than one would expect. Different strokes for different folks... Good luck selling your beautiful car.

Given the numerous posts regarding difficulties getting intake/exhaust manifolds I'd say pop the hoods up and pull any that are intact. Someone will need and you can sell to them. Second to that are people looking for spark plug covers that were removed and never replaced.

Had not notice fewer ads but have not been keeping track really. Evidently started 15 APR. Here is a news item regarding this https://www.foxnews.com/auto/craigslist-now-charging-5-for-used-car-ads

I'm sure most of you have seen this but I had not and pass along to those of you that missed it before now. What a barn find!

True, John. Kovi (and perhaps other sites) have information on wear resistance on all of their materials (as well as several hundred specifically for automobiles). I should have mentioned that both Jobby Lobby and Joanne's have automobile as well as furniture fabrics. Matt, Good reminder about SMS. I've read a number of comments over several years about them not delivering in a timely manner...

I'm with you cloth is much more comfortable than vinyl/leather and have spent hours doing the same thing for a '58 Apache pickup truck and did find the correct cloth at SMS albeit pretty pricey. Have not ordered yet but there are some other options that get pretty close to matching the original (thankfully I have a somewhat tattered original seat in the truck to match to) at a much lower cost. Probably go with original weave but who knows. SMS will send samples. Here are some other options - Kovi - https://www.kovifabrics.com. Tons of choices, prices are decent and they will send samples. I was not looking for Ford materials but if you know what you like could probably find something suitable. Hobby Lobby - surprisingly they have lots of upholstery fabric (at least in the store near me) and have a number of suitable fabrics that would look correct in my daughter's '65 Rambler Classic that is need of new seat covers (although she wants the original weave that SMS has) Joanne's Fabrics (may not be in your area) - also has a good selection of upholstery fabrics to pick from. Good luck.

Ditto for me the 5 or 6 times I replaced the dynaflow in my '54 (when I was young and too dumb to treat the transmission kindly [L to D shifts around 60 mph under full throttle]). Last replacement was from a '55 (including linkage) which solved the problem as D only was "fast" enough!

Well done, OUR good and faithful servant 😊

Might be some worthwhile cars here - look to have surface rust but otherwise sound bodies. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant/pts/d/canyon-country-1973-chevelle-riviera/6828334815.html

Thanks for your reply, Matt. Here is some info - Motorcraft wires, Autolite plugs (XP5144). Plugs torqued to spec, wires seated just fine - both ends. New coil pack.Generally the engine runs fine most of the time (sometimes for a couple of months) before the code throws again. Don't think any of the above would cause an intermittent problem on the same cylinder each time so am leaning towards either wiring that is marginal or a faulty (barely evidently) fuel injector with the injector being most likely (my opinion only - nothing in my experience to support this thought).

Having a problem that is showing up as code P0304 – a misfire on cylinder #4. Here are some general bits of info and thoughts. I’d appreciate any further ideas or thoughts anyone might have. 1998 Escort 2.0 SOHC – automatic trans Head redone approx. 10k miles ago – compression good on all cylinders. Engine runs great most of the time. Misfires generally caused by: Faulty spark plug (all plugs look great – new when head was done), faulty plug wires (new when head was done) – switching #4 plug and wire to #2 cylinder made no change when fault code comes up so believe plug and wire is NOT the problem (also eliminated the coil pack since all plugs are firing as evidenced by plug condition when removed) Faulty crankshaft or camshaft position sensor – As the problem is intermittent BUT always the same cylinder this does not seem likely as I would expect a faulty sensor to cause a misfire on any of the four cylinders not the same each time (this because the sensors only send an electronic signal based on magnetic pulses caused by teeth on the crank and/or cam). Faulty fuel injector – as a misfire code will trigger if any single cylinder develops slightly different power than other cylinders this seems as though it could be the cause providing the injector is marginal and fires properly most of the time (which would account for the engine running correctly most of the time?) Faulty ECM – since it references crankshaft/camshaft sensor input to perform engine management and send signals for timing, injector firing, etc it seems as though this could be the problem if the flaw is a repeatable glitch. How would one check this out? Faulty wiring or connector – assuming the connection/wiring is marginal this certainly could be an intermittent problem Anyone have any experience with a similar problem and if so what did you do to correct? Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Check out the Reynolds Buick blog for some info on the '65 Kadett and why the smaller tires are on the rear - http://reynolds1915.blogspot.com/2012/01/fast-friday-gran-sport-opel.html.