Gene Brink

Not able to answer your question but if you do not get a response perhaps NCP can supply you with measurements and you can compare to your Special? Good luck...

Agree. Plenty of pictures of engine & transmission plants on the web so I have no doubt those components were made elsewhere and added to the cars final assembly. Guessing the same is true for seats and certainly there were literally hundreds of parts manufactured by various vendors (some GM owned - i.e. Delco) and used for final assembly.

James, One thing I've not seen mentioned is that what you presently have appears to be a very clean (other than the mentioned rust) and complete car which will make a restoration easier and cheaper. Sell if and then "down the road" buy a replacement it will be difficult to find one this nice. You did not mention how the engine was running - assume decent as you drove it for six months. If you do not need to rebuild that is worth $$. Good luck with your decision.😉

James, One thing I've not seen mentioned is that what you presently have appears to be a very clean (other than the mentioned rust) and complete car which will make a restoration easier and cheaper. Sell if and then "down the road" buy a replacement it will be difficult to find one this nice. You did not mention how the engine was running - assume decent as you drove it for six months. If you do not need to rebuild that is worth $$. Good luck with your decision.😉

Oh gosh! I've found that cars of zero interest to me when new and now quite appealing when one sees a well maintained (or restored) example. Funny how "old" makes a car much more appealing. To answer the question, when I returned from "an all expense paid trip to Southeast Asia" in March 1968 a replacement for the '54 Cadillac limousine I was driving before I was drafted was on my shortlist of what to do. Wound up with a '60 MGA 😢 and after a few months of paying more than a new car payment to keep it running decided I would be better off with a brand new Buick. Wanted a GS but did not like the 68-9 because of the side-sweep body design (so wound up with a '69 Opel Rallye which was a great little car). Still not my favorite look but do now like (not quite love - save that for a '65) and a nice looking '68-9 GS and would be a pleasure to own.

Amen to that, Dave! I really enjoy being paid each month to NOT come to work! How sweet it is... Lamar, Looks like you worked with a great bunch of people.

And if you like jazz -

Thanks for suggesting, Valk. Until two years ago - Never Dull Wadding for metal polishing (works on chrome as well) but now find Blue Magic Metal Cream Polish to be the best I've ever used (and that include dozens of them). Plenty of waxes give more than satisfactory results provided you use regularily - don't think you can actually be wrong with any brand name stuff (i.e. - Turtle Wax, et al - NOT something you have never heard of) assuming you are using a product compatible with your paint. Currently using Meguiars, Mothers, Classic and Nu Finish (paste) and Meguiars and Mothers (liquid), and Meguirs detail spray. Not much difference between any of the paste or liquid but the detail spray falls short unless the wax is already "primo." (Must confess I feel better after using paste - must the amount of effort makes me feel as though I've accomplished more somehow. Black Magic used to make a paste wax that was the best I ever used - but was the hardest wax I've ever used [which may be why it isn't around any longer].) Darn - this makes me want to wax my wife's car...😉

Kevin, Best metal polish I've found is Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Ounce-Polish/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=sxin_0_osp20-bf3d0f63_cov?ascsubtag=bf3d0f63-fb92-43e9-8a32-3b423fca9170&creativeASIN=B000BO8Z9I&crid=1132SJAZ74UZH&cv_ct_cx=blue+magic+metal+polish+cream&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.bf3d0f63-fb92-43e9-8a32-3b423fca9170&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=blue+magic+metal+polish+cream&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B000BO8Z9I&pd_rd_r=a90df18b-e450-4fa2-8033-45b6fa2c75d0&pd_rd_w=NuEVl&pd_rd_wg=vrZyq&pf_rd_p=62c00474-6fe0-420f-9956-a05256e04b43&pf_rd_r=RQ5Z1E4CRNA39MER6P7A&qid=1580432549&sprefix=blue+magic+%2Caps%2C213&sr=1-2-32a32192-7547-4d9b-b4f8-fe31bfe05040&tag=bestcont06-20). Prior to finding the Blue Magic I always used Never Dull Wadding Polish (https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-Nevr-Dull-Wadding-Restoration/dp/B000CNBI1A/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=never+dull+wadding+metal+polish+cream&qid=1580432634&s=automotive&sr=1-1). Neither will address the grinding marks but will polish the aluminium very well and are both easy to use (but wear some gloves or your hands will be very black after using).

https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/san-diego-1993-buick-roadmaster-wagon/7052632964.html. I'll bet this one is "still head Turner"

Wife know you are using the good china again, Morgan?😉

Not suggesting you purchase from Kanter as you can find better prices but can look at and get an idea of what parts you will need here - https://www.kanter.com/productdetail.aspx?DeptNo=1600&MakeName=Buick&MakeYear=1949&CategoryID=39&ProductCode=181&Router=Gallery. Parts you would need are - 4 Outer Pin Kits 2 Outer Tie Rod Ends 2 Stabilizer Link Kits Upper Inner Bushings Lower Inner Bushings 1 King Pin Kit with bushings Depending upon the condition of some parts you might need additional items if they are worn so much replacement bushings, etc. are not workable. Good luck!

So lucky to live near a wonderful museum that I can drop in every couple of months to see what is on display (also have a research library that one can utilize as well). Went a couple of weeks ago and a very nice 1905 Buick was proudly on display. All the cars on display are running and licensed and they are driven regularly (occasionally I see one) which is perfect. If anyone is in Los Angeles this should be on your list of things to do (and it is free!). Anyway some pictures...

No start for the last month or so but running okay prior to that? Assuming so what, if any, work have you done since it was running? You've indicated that you've confirmed that you have compression, spark and fuel (at least starting fluid) as well as valve actuation. That pretty well leaves timing as the culprit I'd say. Good luck solving the mystery...

You are right about the slide switch for AM/FM so if you find something ('65 dash is quite different than '64 BUT the radio appears to be very close in size in both '65 & '66 so if you can find something to look at and measure it might work after a bit of cutting on the dash face. Good luck.