Gene Brink

Thanks for your reply, Matt. Here is some info - Motorcraft wires, Autolite plugs (XP5144). Plugs torqued to spec, wires seated just fine - both ends. New coil pack.Generally the engine runs fine most of the time (sometimes for a couple of months) before the code throws again. Don't think any of the above would cause an intermittent problem on the same cylinder each time so am leaning towards either wiring that is marginal or a faulty (barely evidently) fuel injector with the injector being most likely (my opinion only - nothing in my experience to support this thought).

Having a problem that is showing up as code P0304 – a misfire on cylinder #4. Here are some general bits of info and thoughts. I’d appreciate any further ideas or thoughts anyone might have. 1998 Escort 2.0 SOHC – automatic trans Head redone approx. 10k miles ago – compression good on all cylinders. Engine runs great most of the time. Misfires generally caused by: Faulty spark plug (all plugs look great – new when head was done), faulty plug wires (new when head was done) – switching #4 plug and wire to #2 cylinder made no change when fault code comes up so believe plug and wire is NOT the problem (also eliminated the coil pack since all plugs are firing as evidenced by plug condition when removed) Faulty crankshaft or camshaft position sensor – As the problem is intermittent BUT always the same cylinder this does not seem likely as I would expect a faulty sensor to cause a misfire on any of the four cylinders not the same each time (this because the sensors only send an electronic signal based on magnetic pulses caused by teeth on the crank and/or cam). Faulty fuel injector – as a misfire code will trigger if any single cylinder develops slightly different power than other cylinders this seems as though it could be the cause providing the injector is marginal and fires properly most of the time (which would account for the engine running correctly most of the time?) Faulty ECM – since it references crankshaft/camshaft sensor input to perform engine management and send signals for timing, injector firing, etc it seems as though this could be the problem if the flaw is a repeatable glitch. How would one check this out? Faulty wiring or connector – assuming the connection/wiring is marginal this certainly could be an intermittent problem Anyone have any experience with a similar problem and if so what did you do to correct? Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Check out the Reynolds Buick blog for some info on the '65 Kadett and why the smaller tires are on the rear - http://reynolds1915.blogspot.com/2012/01/fast-friday-gran-sport-opel.html.

Thanks for the correction, Willie. Thought '57 was when the change to single length took place.

You mention you need a drive train but comments are about the engine only. If you also need a new Dynaflow the Roadmaster/Super output shaft and housing is longer than the Century/Special. Not a big job to switch out from your old transmission (if you have one???) to the new transmission but if you don't have an old one get a replacement transmission from the large body series'.

Ben, Hate to be the bearer of bad news but in my experience sludge that is that gray is evidence of an appreciable amount of water/coolant in the mix and I doubt that torquing the head bolts will help but it is certainly worth trying. Imagine compression /leak down testing will show at least one cylinder is lower than it should be. Good luck - don't forget to update with your findings, etc...

Milestar MS775 Touring SLE P205/70R15 95S SL WW tire @ Walmart online - $52.80 each

Looks like a 215 ci to me - not a nailhead. Never saw with 2, 2 barrel carbs before. Should be worth something to the right person...

"Did he break the transmission? You betcha. Several times. But then he had a lead foot and a couple BRASS ones. He learned to take it out , tear it down and back in in a day. Long one. He was 19 at the time." Can relate to that, Ben. Mine was a '54 Super and my right foot spent way too much time against the floorboard and L to D shifts were deadly for the Dynaflow. Like your brother I got pretty good at removing and replacing (4 or 5 times - memory is getting a bit hazy...) and junk yard transmissions were only $25 in 64-66 so the cost wasn't too high. Finally solved the problem by buying a '55 transmission, and linkage for the kick-down, and installing in the '54. With the dual stator acceleration in D was acceptable for a lead foot like me. Drafted in Jun '66 and while I was gone my folks sold the Super - still miss it today.? My take on reliability is that the early Dynaflows (49-54) are not as forgiving when abused as those from '55 on and from '58 to '63 are every bit as reliable and perform as well as 3 or 4 speed automatics in other marques. Drive yours and enjoy (I too vote for a high idle causing your lurch into L or R - Old Tank's advice to make sure your brake is firmly pressed when shifting will minimize this problem).

"Did he break the transmission? You betcha. Several times. But then he had a lead foot and a couple BRASS ones. He learned to take it out , tear it down and back in in a day. Long one. He was 19 at the time." Can relate to that, Ben. Mine was a '54 Super and my right foot spent way too much time against the floorboard and L to D shifts were deadly for the Dynaflow. Like your brother I got pretty good at removing and replacing (4 or 5 times - memory is getting a bit hazy...) and junk yard transmissions were only $25 in 64-66 so the cost wasn't too high. Finally solved the problem by buying a '55 transmission, and linkage for the kick-down, and installing in the '54. With the dual stator acceleration in D was acceptable for a lead foot like me. Drafted in Jun '66 and while I was gone my folks sold the Super - still miss it today.? My take on reliability is that the early Dynaflows (49-54) are not as forgiving when abused as those from '55 on and from '58 to '63 are every bit as reliable and perform as well as 3 or 4 speed automatics in other marques. Drive yours and enjoy (I too vote for a high idle causing your lurch into L or R - Old Tank's advice to make sure your brake is firmly pressed when shifting will minimize this problem).

Found this yesterday and wanted to share as there is some good stuff here - http://www.secondchancegarage.com/index.cfm. Enjoy!

Congratulations, Scott. Must confess I am jealous...?

Nice shirt ?

John, Noise sounds like your parking pawl is trying to engage with the parking gear it locks into (designed so it can NOT do so when the car is being driven over 5 mph - guess how I know this???) so may be something out of whack in the output tail shaft housing where it is located. If the sound lasts long enough (4 or 5 seconds should be enough time) try carefully shifting from drive into neutral to see it stops. If so that is where I'd check if all else fails (I say this because you would have to pull the transmission to check on this). Good luck!

Have it with vinegar section in my Walmart. Labeled as cleaning vinegar and was only in gallon size.