Gene Brink

No start for the last month or so but running okay prior to that? Assuming so what, if any, work have you done since it was running? You've indicated that you've confirmed that you have compression, spark and fuel (at least starting fluid) as well as valve actuation. That pretty well leaves timing as the culprit I'd say. Good luck solving the mystery...

You are right about the slide switch for AM/FM so if you find something ('65 dash is quite different than '64 BUT the radio appears to be very close in size in both '65 & '66 so if you can find something to look at and measure it might work after a bit of cutting on the dash face. Good luck.

It has been almost 55 years since I last drove a '52 but if memory serves me correctly there are three positions on the ignition switch counter-clockwise is Lock, 12 o'clock is On and all the way clockwise is Off (and you do not need a key to turn to on from Off). Patrick, I am assuming you have not been able to start the car at all since your rebuild. How long has it been since it was running? If a long time check your manual and try polarizing your generator as if it is not correctly polarized your points can be damaged and then follow Matt's suggestions to determine why you have such a low compression reading on #1. If it were me I'd use a shot of starting fluid for my initial start up when you are ready to try again as it will fire much easier than with gas. Good luck.

Very nice work on the tailgate🏆

Two questions. Is the rear axle easy to move forward/backward? If not you will need to make it so as mating the spline shaft teeth will require some precise & gentle movement. And, 2 - Do you have the transmission in park so the output shaft will be stationary when attempting to mate the spline and u-joint? If not it is possible the pressure on the spline will permit the output shaft to turn with the u-joint when you need to be able to move the drive shaft a bit to line up the spline teeth. Once you have everything oriented correctly everything should slide together easily. Good luck😊

Amen to this! Best bet to avoid bending/cracking is to be sure to only use the center section when closing the hood.

My last trip to a dealer service department was in 1970, Bernie. Took my parents '66 LeSabre in for a tune up and when I got it back it ran very smoothly BUT was slower than when it went in (slow enough that my '70 Opel was faster - much faster). Took it back to them, they "checked it" and declared everything to be as it should be and the service manager reminded me to not expect too much from a small block engine (340 ci with the 4 barrel carb - 260 hp if I remember correctly). It was my experience with the car that it was more than able to get out of its own way so took a trip to Sears and bought my first timing light and engine analyzer. Timing was dead on BUT the dwell was not even close. Adjusted and the car performance was restored! With that level of service at the Buick dealership I never went back (and Tyrell Buick in North Hollywood, CA is long gone - sadly a Toyota dealership now). Bill I feel your pain. Makes sense for a dealership (as well as independent shops) to have assemblies but sucks for us DIYers. Individual components have to be out there somewhere but finding them is pretty difficult. My last Park Avenue power seat lost its up/down adjustment and while the motor worked just fine the plastic gears were stripped out so... Cost for the entire assembly was too much and I just learned to drive with the seat where it was (not at all unlike pre-power seat days for all of the cars I had when I was younger) the rest of the time I had the car. Pick Your Parts may be your best option... Good luck

Best of luck - you have a good looking car to start with which is a huge advantage. Is the '57 Cadillac in the driveway yours also? Can not see much of it but what shows looks solid.

What year were you driving? '49-'53 were pretty sluggish BUT very reliable if driven correctly (L to D shifts under throttle = failure by the way). '54 was improved but the first big performance improvement was in '55. By '57/'58 Dynaflows were very efficient - not quite as quick as "geared" automatics but definitely NOT slow and like Chris said you get one on the highway and they are more than able to keep up with anything with similar weight and power through 1963 which was the last year they were Buick's transmission of choice in the big cars (to include the Rivieria).😊

My '55 wipers worked the same way when I first got the car (talking 40 years ago now) and I pulled the motor apart and cleaned out a lot of hardened grease and greased with fresh stuff and the wipers worked great the six years I had the car. Not a hard job - just be gentle with things (especially the nylon piece that connects to the cable going into the car - it will be fragile). If that does not correct have a professional rebuild the unit.

Re: oil pan modification. Looks like your capacity will be 2 quarts less (maybe a bit more?). Any plans for an external reservoir or will you be okay running less oil? Like Ben - admire how quickly you are getting to things and looking forward to additional postings.

My daughters '65 Classic wipers work perfectly - vacuum of course - even when accelerating (albeit slowly with the 199 c.i. 6). My experience (all with Buick's other than the above Rambler) is that they work pretty well provided the motor is well lubricated (pretty easy job to open up and grease things up) but when the grease hardens they do not work worth a "plug nickel" (whatever that means!) 😊

There certainly is a shortage of people able to drive a manual trans vehicle. My son-in-law is a UPS driver and they have a real shortage of drivers that can drive a stick shift. And (around Los Angeles) that is for a job that is six figures with the crazy overtime around almost any holiday where folks buy gifts. One thing I've noticed watching the large car auctions on TV is that while there isn't a shortage of interest (and willingness to pay $$) in old cars provided they have a new V8 (sadly almost always a SBC 350), automatic transmission, revised suspension, air conditioning, etc... Beautiful stock restorations of pre 1950 cars seem to go for much less than one would expect. Different strokes for different folks... Good luck selling your beautiful car.

Given the numerous posts regarding difficulties getting intake/exhaust manifolds I'd say pop the hoods up and pull any that are intact. Someone will need and you can sell to them. Second to that are people looking for spark plug covers that were removed and never replaced.