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Gene Brink

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Everything posted by Gene Brink

  1. Except for the color (ours was Venetian Blue with a white top) it is what I learned to drive in 1963. Brings back many fond memories...😊 https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/woodland-hills-1952-buick-super/7365120576.html
  2. Shop around you should be able to beat that price. There is a BCA chapter in Lynnwood, WA (the North Cascade chapter) and a club member may have a good source for a shop to rebuild your transmission (assuming you are not set on using the shop you have referenced). Good luck!
  3. Jacob, Guessing the Olds F85 and Pontiac Tempest for the same year would have the same seat frame and would work for you. Give you a better chance of finding something. Good luck!
  4. Mark, You've already got your wheel off but you should have been able to back the shoes off using a brake spoon (https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Adjusting-Spoon-Adjuster-Wrench/dp/B01GFGI716/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=brake+spoon&qid=1624070322&sr=8-7) and you will need one to adjust after reassembling things. Good luck.
  5. Be careful. This is based upon pictures only so may not be correct but the '50 windshield appears to be more square in the upper corners when compared to the '49. Curve and height appear to be the same but who could tell if there was a minor difference from a picture? Perhaps some members that have sedanets can measure what they have so you don't order something that might not work. Good luck.
  6. Old so may have been seen by some of you but new to me (3 minutes ago) -
  7. Imagine a number of you have seen this but just found it on YouTube. Some cool toons too!
  8. Thanks, Stuart. Very nice magazine and your '36 looks terrific.
  9. Thanks, Denis. Car looks great! Poignant file as it reminded me of my dad who had Parkinsons's disease and really did not want to give up driving his last Buick ('98 LeSabre). Hope I can be as graceful as the gentleman in the video when the time comes.
  10. Welcome, Daniel. I am in Sylmar so almost neighbors, but do not have any suggestions other than be careful when threading plugs, etc into the all aluminum engine as it isn't hard to strip threads. Great looking Skylark - I've always liked them. Enjoy.
  11. Why would anyone think you know anything about '54's, Lamar? 😏
  12. Might not pay you anything but perhaps would pick up & take it all away so you don't have to mess with the stuff - http://sonnysautopartstn.tripod.com/. Good luck!
  13. If all else fails, and assuming you have the old gear [or enough of it] to take measurements you can have a duplicate made by any number of precision gear manufacturers. Here is one and if they can not help perhaps can refer you http://www.amgear.com/specialty-gears.html. Won't be cheap but... Good luck.
  14. Looks like he measured the ring gap at 1mm which is equal to 0.03937007874 so is much wider than spec listed by Hugh so I think Joel is probably right in thinking something is amiss with the crankshaft - either rods or mains. Imagine the place to start is with Joel's suggestion to begin checking rod caps & mains to see if they are causing the binding and proceed from there. Good luck, Catrinus.
  15. Not able to answer your question but if you do not get a response perhaps NCP can supply you with measurements and you can compare to your Special? Good luck...
  16. Agree. Plenty of pictures of engine & transmission plants on the web so I have no doubt those components were made elsewhere and added to the cars final assembly. Guessing the same is true for seats and certainly there were literally hundreds of parts manufactured by various vendors (some GM owned - i.e. Delco) and used for final assembly.
  17. James, One thing I've not seen mentioned is that what you presently have appears to be a very clean (other than the mentioned rust) and complete car which will make a restoration easier and cheaper. Sell if and then "down the road" buy a replacement it will be difficult to find one this nice. You did not mention how the engine was running - assume decent as you drove it for six months. If you do not need to rebuild that is worth $$. Good luck with your decision.πŸ˜‰
  18. James, One thing I've not seen mentioned is that what you presently have appears to be a very clean (other than the mentioned rust) and complete car which will make a restoration easier and cheaper. Sell if and then "down the road" buy a replacement it will be difficult to find one this nice. You did not mention how the engine was running - assume decent as you drove it for six months. If you do not need to rebuild that is worth $$. Good luck with your decision.πŸ˜‰
  19. Oh gosh! I've found that cars of zero interest to me when new and now quite appealing when one sees a well maintained (or restored) example. Funny how "old" makes a car much more appealing. To answer the question, when I returned from "an all expense paid trip to Southeast Asia" in March 1968 a replacement for the '54 Cadillac limousine I was driving before I was drafted was on my shortlist of what to do. Wound up with a '60 MGA 😒 and after a few months of paying more than a new car payment to keep it running decided I would be better off with a brand new Buick. Wanted a GS but did not like the 68-9 because of the side-sweep body design (so wound up with a '69 Opel Rallye which was a great little car). Still not my favorite look but do now like (not quite love - save that for a '65) and a nice looking '68-9 GS and would be a pleasure to own.
  20. Amen to that, Dave! I really enjoy being paid each month to NOT come to work! How sweet it is... Lamar, Looks like you worked with a great bunch of people.
  21. Thanks for suggesting, Valk. Until two years ago - Never Dull Wadding for metal polishing (works on chrome as well) but now find Blue Magic Metal Cream Polish to be the best I've ever used (and that include dozens of them). Plenty of waxes give more than satisfactory results provided you use regularily - don't think you can actually be wrong with any brand name stuff (i.e. - Turtle Wax, et al - NOT something you have never heard of) assuming you are using a product compatible with your paint. Currently using Meguiars, Mothers, Classic and Nu Finish (paste) and Meguiars and Mothers (liquid), and Meguirs detail spray. Not much difference between any of the paste or liquid but the detail spray falls short unless the wax is already "primo." (Must confess I feel better after using paste - must the amount of effort makes me feel as though I've accomplished more somehow. Black Magic used to make a paste wax that was the best I ever used - but was the hardest wax I've ever used [which may be why it isn't around any longer].) Darn - this makes me want to wax my wife's car...πŸ˜‰
  22. Kevin, Best metal polish I've found is Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Ounce-Polish/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=sxin_0_osp20-bf3d0f63_cov?ascsubtag=bf3d0f63-fb92-43e9-8a32-3b423fca9170&creativeASIN=B000BO8Z9I&crid=1132SJAZ74UZH&cv_ct_cx=blue+magic+metal+polish+cream&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.bf3d0f63-fb92-43e9-8a32-3b423fca9170&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=blue+magic+metal+polish+cream&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B000BO8Z9I&pd_rd_r=a90df18b-e450-4fa2-8033-45b6fa2c75d0&pd_rd_w=NuEVl&pd_rd_wg=vrZyq&pf_rd_p=62c00474-6fe0-420f-9956-a05256e04b43&pf_rd_r=RQ5Z1E4CRNA39MER6P7A&qid=1580432549&sprefix=blue+magic+%2Caps%2C213&sr=1-2-32a32192-7547-4d9b-b4f8-fe31bfe05040&tag=bestcont06-20). Prior to finding the Blue Magic I always used Never Dull Wadding Polish (https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-Nevr-Dull-Wadding-Restoration/dp/B000CNBI1A/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=never+dull+wadding+metal+polish+cream&qid=1580432634&s=automotive&sr=1-1). Neither will address the grinding marks but will polish the aluminium very well and are both easy to use (but wear some gloves or your hands will be very black after using).
  23. https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/san-diego-1993-buick-roadmaster-wagon/7052632964.html. I'll bet this one is "still head Turner"
  24. Wife know you are using the good china again, Morgan?πŸ˜‰
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