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1 hour ago, ArticiferTom said:

Here a pic of some like used in model A . also plumbing shop may sell . Used in old stoker circulators . Size half the difference of shaft OD and nut ID . This is 3/16"wpseal.jpg.e379c2a622059ee966338b7bc02e2fe0.jpg

If the shaft is badly rusted you may not be able to repair with the packing. You may have to remove your water pump and check it out. I have seen case where the rotor blades were nearly missing because of rust. Best to try packing first,

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On 6/28/2023 at 12:08 PM, LastFrontierDodge said:

The visible portion of the shaft looks to be in good shape. I will loosen nut and repack as needed. 

I added this zerk grease fitting. Not original equipment but functional. I use outboard bearing grease and periodically give a few shots.IMG_2756.jpeg.eab3c5ece04f5fe36035ae7ca1187d19.jpeg

Edited by stakeside
E (see edit history)
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I was able to remove the water pump and replaced the packing on the nut. The shaft was in decent shape overall. Some minor pitting. I will modify the water pump to add grease. 
 

I am going to get a new belt. 
 

What size is needed?

 

Thank you all. 
 

Paul

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4 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

I was able to remove the water pump and replaced the packing on the nut. The shaft was in decent shape overall. Some minor pitting. I will modify the water pump to add grease. 
 

I am going to get a new belt. 
 

What size is needed?

 

Thank you all. 
 

Paul

Check previous picture. I believe the belt is a Napa item number 607.

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2 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

Looking to see if anyone can point me in the right direction. Looking for a radiator cap, local parts store and radiator repair shop did not have one. Thank you. IMG_4325.jpeg.30d44a94e4a812639bb3339d09e13bbf.jpegIMG_1686.jpeg.0e440fae395b8c5bdfed2aa59817e2d1.jpegIMG_1690.jpeg.a3fd3eba21f8fb8e7b4ed812586706fd.jpeg

Does it have the oval opening in the radiator shell? I have this one that needs the triangular gripping plate repaired.

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1 hour ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

No, it is not an oval opening, it is round. Thank you though. Paul 

Hi Paul 

 

I found this one on eBay and works perfect in my two prong spout. I’d imagine it could be adjusted to fit yours also if you can find one.  Adjustable fuel cap according to patent #
 

If you want to test it I can send mine to you so you can try it first. 

 

Dave

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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IMG_4775.jpeg.59038a5a3a391309ab9dafe4a26d636d.jpegI would like to thank everyone for offering their knowledge regarding my project. With your help, I was able to get my truck running. What started out as a leap of faith culminated in a great project for me to learn something completely new. A true labor of love. Im sure I’ll have questions along the way and now I know where to ask first. Again, thank you all. Paul. IMG_4821.jpeg.4ae153556fa86d2d481b889742389e19.jpeg

Edited by LastFrontierDodge (see edit history)
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On 1/5/2022 at 9:44 AM, stakeside said:

One way to free an engine is to tow it and release the clutch. Place trans is in second gear. Make sure ignition is off.

This also a good way to start the engine.

I brought the 1928 Fargo Express Panel truck home from Chehalis the other day. Without even looking at the 1950 Oregon plates on the truck, it is apparent it has sat idle since that time.

The fact that the engine is extremely rusty, and it is obvious it was stored outside with five of the six spark plugs removed, I was inclined to fill the stuck cylinders with ATF and acetone, and wait for a few days and crank it over.

I watch the YouTube videos in which a couple of guys finds a sixty, seventy, eighty year old car sitting in a open field.

And, they put some gas in it, throw in a battery, and it starts just like they had driven it there that day.

Well, they say mix a bit of ATF and some acetone and dump some into the cylinder each day. After a few days the stuck engine loosens up, starts right up, and the price of the junker rises from $500.00 to $30,000.00 and change.

Instead I followed my better judgement and pulled the head off the panel.

The gratitude literally gushed forth when I saw tha the pistons were topped by an inch or more of rust and dirt. Had I tried cranking the engine, and most certainly, had I tried pulling the truck to start it, I would be looking for a replacement engine.

Instead, since the cylinder which had the spark installed has a near perfect bore, and the valves look good.

But, the bores and valves in the other five cylinders may be OK with a good honing and cleaning.

I am afraid though that the five cylinder bores which were repeatedly filled with water and dirt over the last seventy years may need reboring and more service than just a good cleaning.

 

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On 10/12/2023 at 8:16 AM, JACK M said:

Jack, Is this the one that we discussed a couple of weeks ago?

I might be happy that my offer was turned down.

You will undoubtably have some fun with this one.

Hi JACK M…….Sorry to be an errant little f*rt, but I just saw your post. Saying you “might” be happy…..is like saying Al Capone “might” be a gangster.

Yep, it is the same truck and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn676-fLq7I I am not dead yet.

I decided to buy one totally lost truck, and have one source of cuts, bruises, strains and pains, for many years to come, rather than buying a lot of things needed to accomplish the same thing over the same period of time.

The truck is in remarkably worse condition, in the light, than it ever appeared to be in the dark shed.

If you happen into the SEATAC area stop by and Google the old machine.

I am in the process of tearing it down to the frame, and will work on the wood and sheet metal while I try to free the stuck engine and decide what transmission and drive shaft to use.

Jack

 

 

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17 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

I believe I need a three prong headlight connector? Is that correct, still available? Thank you. IMG_4978.jpeg.7e48ec014c2708ba7d37eb9fadf530e8.jpeg

As far as I know the originals aren't available unless you get lucky and find someone with NOS parts

 

Should look like this

 

11/16-3/4" OD round

Bakelite piece is 1 1/4" long

Outer brass fitting is 1" long

 

I believe the original bulb will be a Mazda 1110 6V if memory serves me correct.

 

Try these guys, they may have something that may not be original but should have something that will work.

Shop – Restoration Supply Company (restorationstuff.com)

 

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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On 10/30/2023 at 3:46 PM, LastFrontierDodge said:

I believe I need a three prong headlight connector? Is that correct, still available? Thank you. IMG_4978.jpeg.7e48ec014c2708ba7d37eb9fadf530e8.jpeg

These things occasionally come available on eBay. They are used across the board on several different makes of cars, at least I have them on both my 1923 DB Roadster and my 1927 Willys Knight. The deal is though, most folks putting them up for sale have no idea what they are, so just keep checking “vintage car parts” and look at the photos.

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3 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

eBay did have them and I will see how they fit. Thank you Dave for locating them for me. 

 

Glad you could work something out.

Please let us know how they work out.

 

If you find out they work good, maybe post a link to his page so if anyone else would like to order from the seller they can order while supplies last.

 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Odometer Numbers

 

I had to dissemble my speedometer/odometer to repair it and in doing so, some numbers on the odometer were damaged. 
 

Replacement numbers available or is it a marker and my best Times New Roman font???

 

Thank you. 

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On 1/8/2024 at 4:50 PM, LastFrontierDodge said:

Odometer Numbers

 

I had to dissemble my speedometer/odometer to repair it and in doing so, some numbers on the odometer were damaged. 
 

Replacement numbers available or is it a marker and my best Times New Roman font???

 

Thank you. 

I'm not aware of any replacements available. PM sent

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On 11/4/2023 at 3:42 AM, LastFrontierDodge said:

eBay did have them and I will see how they fit. Thank you Dave for locating them for me. 

How did they work out, any updates? No rush... just curious if the ones John had worked as I may order extras just in case.

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The headlight connectors did fit my headlights. I have not had a chance to wire them up yet however. 
 

John was very responsive and included extra “springs” if needed. 
 

I would recommend trying them as John is receptive to returns if they do not fit. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Congratulations on fulfilling your farm truck dream! It's a great-looking 1928 3/4 ton series E-DA Dodge Truck you've got there. For guidance on getting it up and running, check the frame number on the driver's side above the front spring perch for additional details. The wheelbase of 131 inches and engine details suggest it's a DA6 engine, likely from 1929 or early 1930. The missing frame number could pose a challenge, but try looking at the locations suggested in the forum.

As for parts and manuals, consider joining the Dodge Brothers Club and explore online platforms like eBay and forums for vintage truck enthusiasts. Your radiator may need some modification, but with the right bracket, it should work well. Best of luck with your restoration journey; it sounds like an exciting father-son project! If you have specific questions, feel free to ask, and the community will be happy to help. Happy New Year and enjoy the road ahead!

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