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On 1/6/2022 at 6:04 PM, LastFrontierDodge said:

Oil channel??

 

Would it be behind the allen head screw? There appears to be a channel that runs the length of the engine which corresponds with the oil intake coming off of the oil filter behind the allen screw. C1B6757A-2198-4B18-98C2-EC7C200E6283.jpeg.dfe5badd1f13483cab1f8ee542de44e6.jpegEBDD182E-634B-4C65-A388-253D9FC94591.jpeg.73042c5f2539a530909be43f9657f7f6.jpeg

Yes, that is it... didn't feel like pulling my starter and I have plans with the family so wife isn't allowing me to get dirty today but here is the same section on my DA6

 

Pop it, pump it and you should be in good shape. Good luck, I'm trusting it will flow nicely by the looks of the motor...

 

 

DA6 Truck front oil chamber.jpg

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Exactly what Doug said. My roadster engine was seized and disassembly is the best way to go. If you try move it while it’s seized you could do some irreparable damage. 

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If you can send me message or cell I may have a couple of those moldings. I could send a picture to your cell from mine. Your truck has the same fenders headlights as mine. My radiator and shell look like the one stakeside posted.  George

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I had my seats built. I did not have good frames and springs. The cost was about $300. If you have the frames and springs it would a better way to go with them. I will attach some pics of the fabrication. Note that the foam used is not that durable in hot weather and will dry out.

 

IMG_1975.jpg.57ef24cc5d2d83359cdb94a1526407bf.jpg

 

 

IMG_0147.JPG.4b5efee26b8c12124b830a9f70e67f4e.JPG

 

IMG_0146.JPG.d37b47ed3e96d86442fdb6769d133a5a.JPG

 

IMG_1974.jpg.230162e128b55fa77ce2fe53407b6bbd.jpg

 

 

IMG_1973.jpg

Edited by stakeside
e (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I am in the process of removing the oil pan and the tie rod is in the way. It will not allow for enough room to remove the oil pan.

 

I have removed the cotter pin and nut that sits above the tie rod on one end. 

 

How does the actual tie rod come apart? I want to make sure I do it correctly as to not damage anything. 

 

Thank you.

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I was able to free the engine on the truck, which was a huge relief. Moving forward, I know I will have a lot of questions and look forward to learning.

 

Spark plugs: Information on the DBC recommends Champion D-16 (#516). Just want to make sure that this is correct before I purchase them?

 

Battery: Optima seems to get high reviews. Any others to consider?

 

Engine Oil: Which grade is recommended?

 

I know I will have more questions other than these as I go along. Thank you, Paul. 

 

 

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DBC web site gives 411 on spark plugs , as they say .

    Oil is all over place , search here and read . Variables include how fresh engine is is bottom of pan clean . climate be ran in . etc , etc .

    I use Valvoline Blue 15w-40 myself for clean fresher engine change every 500miles . It is both gas and diesel and natural gas rated .

   Tractor Supply has good 6 volt farm batteries . More important is clean cables and connections  of proper size .

    How did you free up ????

Edited by ArticiferTom
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Posted (edited)

I used various lubricants ( 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, Sea Foam Deep Creep, MMO, and PB Blaster) over the course of a couple weeks. Switching between the different brands. 

 

I then started to use a block and tap the pistons over the wrist pin in an attempt to "rock" the piston back and forth within the cylinder and get some lubricant in there. 

 

I put a breaker bar on the hand crank nut and to my surprise the engine turned over. Big victory!

Edited by LastFrontierDodge (see edit history)
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I was in the process of removing the oil pan to get at it from the bottom, but I did not get that far. I was still working from the top and I believe the rings were more of the issue. 

 

I still have to remove the oil pan as I was in the process of taking it off, the gasket was disturbed and I need to put a new one back on. 

 

No injuries is an added bonus indeed

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36 minutes ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

I need to replace the battery cable. 
 

00 the correct size for a 6 volt system?

I have seen 0000 recommended as well. 
 

Thank you. 

Hey Paul, 

 

I'm not sure if anyone has sent this to you yet but you might want to save this site. See page 4:

Shop – Restoration Supply Company (restorationstuff.com)

 

Might also try Tractor Supply, Napa or a local welding supply store who sells it by the foot if you'd rather stay local.

 

I suck at electrical but I've read that it's 00 and 1/0 will work as long as you use copper conductor.

Also try Brillman.com

 

Hopefully Tom chimes in, I think he's the best one to ask about that since he has electrical knowledge.

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Every thing said above is exactly what I would .  Also good copper terminals crimped and sealed with heat shrink . Anti corrosive or dielectric grease inside before crimp would not hurt . Keeping air and water out stops corrosion .

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