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4 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

182F189E-997C-4789-AC09-89D7ED1727B1.jpeg.5cb5f5d75407e8c24bb0e0349b82df7c.jpeg2BA65BE8-4797-4641-8C38-29620921D723.jpeg.3a055e8a4fd7753ee531ca73813281a2.jpeg5D83B0FC-E4D2-48BB-810B-E1753E71D7C8.jpeg.c59b1e8bfb65aaa76533d0f634c0988d.jpeg


Good to have those parts, especially the early original shroud. They painted some of them in 1929 and later in 1930 they went to the chrome shroud. 
Your emblem is for 1931 and 1932 models.

 

I had one like yours for my truck when I first bought my truck but then after I studied, I realized it wasn't for my truck so I replaced it. Again, not trying to tell you what to do, just letting you know it's for 1931/32. Ultimately, it's up to you if you like it keep it.... I'm biased though, I'd like to see it corrected to the original emblem because things like this confuse a lot of parts details on trucks for the buyers later down the road.... but again, it's up to you since it's your truck.

 

Looks good and very good start!

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Hi Paul, I'm posting these just in case you need them for reference. This is the same engine from a very original shorter wheelbase DA124. 

Disregard the yellow arrows, that was for a previous discussion years ago about the fuel tank

 

 

30 panel bruce 5.jpg

30 panel bruce 6.jpg

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Tom, regarding your earlier post about getting the engine free, you mentioned priming the engine through the side oil channel plugs. Can you please point out the side oil channel plugs please. Remove black plate on side of engine? Thank you.3A92903D-DC1B-44DE-A0B2-5FE107D60D2E.jpeg.139bc6dd3b86e437ac31b579bb389efe.jpegAC7DD8F3-6385-4E7F-9DF6-B7FB616BEC44.jpeg.d34d92119ce38c2cb1f08250805ab261.jpeg

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I am not as familiar with the sixes . But on driver side you see oil filter center follow tubes they go in to channel . Just below is oil pressure adjustment acorn  that goes there . Somewhere is tap to oil gauge . The channel will be from front to back so will have end plugs around the corner . You could just disconnect oil filter one if generator is in way .

  Dave maybe better giving exact .

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2 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

Tom, regarding your earlier post about getting the engine free, you mentioned priming the engine through the side oil channel plugs. Can you please point out the side oil channel plugs please. Remove black plate on side of engine? Thank you.3A92903D-DC1B-44DE-A0B2-5FE107D60D2E.jpeg.139bc6dd3b86e437ac31b579bb389efe.jpegAC7DD8F3-6385-4E7F-9DF6-B7FB616BEC44.jpeg.d34d92119ce38c2cb1f08250805ab261.jpeg

 

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7 minutes ago, stakeside said:

One way to free an engine is to tow it and release the clutch. Place trans is in second gear. Make sure ignition is off.

This also a good way to start the engine.

I have done this many times over the years.

I had one old flathead ford I think it was that refused to budge and I ended up bending some rods.

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1 minute ago, JACK M said:

I have done this many times over the years.

I had one old flathead ford I think it was that refused to budge and I ended up bending some rods.

Make sure have soaked cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil and proceed with caution.

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9 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

Tom, regarding your earlier post about getting the engine free, you mentioned priming the engine through the side oil channel plugs. Can you please point out the side oil channel plugs please. Remove black plate on side of engine? Thank you.3A92903D-DC1B-44DE-A0B2-5FE107D60D2E.jpeg.139bc6dd3b86e437ac31b579bb389efe.jpegAC7DD8F3-6385-4E7F-9DF6-B7FB616BEC44.jpeg.d34d92119ce38c2cb1f08250805ab261.jpeg

Paul, If you can wait until the weekend so I can get better photos behind the starter as I've researched it and I'm not familiar with any channel that Tom mentioned. Not saying they are not there, I'm just not familiar with them or where they are located (yet) but will get you photos once I find them. Will try to get them posted sooner but can't gaurantee it.

 

I have a very complete and mostly original DA6 truck engine on blocks (donor I'll be putting in my truck) and I'll see if I can point out where the channel and end plugs might be along with better photos of throttle linkage (if still needed) and hopefully we can find some other intriguing answers for other parts along the way. I always learn new things when I start digging deeper.... 

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Good spec info to follow in the meantime...

 

These pages are from a 3/4 ton truck owners manual but this exact engine was used in 3/4 to 1 1/2 ton DA models from 1929-1930 model year July 1, 1928 to June 30, 1930 (and possibly beyond) before the new model U and F series were released in July of 1930. 

 

image.png.5cbb72c1f8a1a5132839746c4c8451de.png

image.png.b43803d07c920d7a1803169a5ad8fa64.png

 

image.png.a5076f46639791232637a37216902cc5.png

 

image.png.5c103d31df57439531fabe0448cee048.png

 

image.png.e73b5179d9e3cabe3828b6c7a36c5a56.png

 

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32 minutes ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

Patience is a virtue. I can wait for the information. 
 

Yes, throttle linkage pictures would be helpful. 
 

Oil channel plugs, maybe??C86219B6-D129-48CD-8B21-B52A6CDD0459.jpeg.9ada51e0812fd086e8a9a6c8a07145b9.jpeg

 

Correct, and the oil pressure reflief valve is at the bottom of photo just out of the frame but I wanted to make sure of what Tom was talking about. The way he worded it makes me think he's talking about something toward the back of the engine by the fire wall.

 

"Inlet" is on the left and "outlet" is on the right. The original correct oil filter would have those words stamped on opposite ends if you can find one. Can post pics of the correct filter if needed. I've been searching for a good one for years to no avail but I have one for referencing purposes so I know what to look for and how it should connect properly. 

 

Again, I posted this scan previously but here it is again. This is factory from the owners instructional manual book you'll need to purchase.

By the way, if you zoom in on this scan you'll notice where the dash gauge oil tubing connects originally.

 

 

 

 

34.jpg

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Haven't been able to get pics yet but if you wanted, you could just take the inlet and outlet connections off then pump it into the intlet until you get fluid coming out of the outlet side.  That would insure you're getting fluid throughout the internal lubrication chambers.

 

Again, your inlet is on the left.

 

image.png.9221d1e23ce677660bae3a77b638ecd7.png

 

Also, I put this in another thread but forgot to post it here for tip to finding frame #.

 

Art supply stores sell "transfer paper" that can also bring out the finest of details that can be used in a similar situation. Not guaranteed to work but worth a shot...  It is meticulous and time consuming though, and plenty of patience.
Good luck

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Thank you both again. I will add some MMO via those inputs mentioned. 

 

Yes, I would like to find that frame number. Also read in another post about using a very fine brass metal brush and lightly going over the area where the frame should be stamped. I know my frame underwent some restoration and the number could possibly be under some layers of coating. 

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3 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

Thank you both again. I will add some MMO via those inputs mentioned. 

 

Yes, I would like to find that frame number. Also read in another post about using a very fine brass metal brush and lightly going over the area where the frame should be stamped. I know my frame underwent some restoration and the number could possibly be under some layers of coating. 

Not sure of purpose to add MMO to the oil input/output connections on the block.

If the engine has not been taken apart and re-assembled there should be enough oil at bearings until you can verify the oil pressure.

I was not sure of the condition of my oil pressure gauge with my truck so I got one at Napa and placed directly on the outlet on my block.

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I do not know if the engine was redone or not. I can add an oil pressure gauge on the outlet on the block as well. Based on my knowledge, I am willing to follow the advice from the more experienced members on this forum to get the engine free. All suggestions are appreciated. Paul.

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