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You fill the cap with grease. I use a six inch ruler as a spatula.

You screw the cap down to force the grease into the line and once your cap bottoms out it needs to be refilled. 
My early cars have these on all grease points and a quarter turn per driving day keeps things lubricated without over greasing.

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Many of these have hardened grease in the them from not being used and heat. SOME of them need disassembled and grease forced through the tube. Clear them so the new grease gets where it needs to be. I cheat. I have extra caps for several sizes and drilled and taped them for grease fittings. That way grease is pushed in under about 2000 lbs of pressure. It doesn't take much  grease to make things happy. That particular one goes to the throwout bearing. 

Edited by nearchoclatetown (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

A more important reason to use the very heavy oil is that in top the layshaft is not driven so it is the oil that transfers some movement from the main shaft to the layshaft. Using thinner oil makes gear changing difficult and the resulting noise rather embarrassing. 
 

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As a purist, this is one of my reasons I believe in maintaining the originality and integrity of the vehicle whenever it's feasibly possible depending on one's budget and goals. 

 

In this photo I highlighted the relief valve (at the bottom) and the fitting that your oil dash gauge should connect to originally. The current set up does not lend itself to a true connection to the dash gauge setup as it looks like it's missing the gauge bypass fitting and instead connects directly. As the next owner down the line, it's always tricky figuring out what the resolution is if done incorrectly before by a prior caretaker.

 

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7 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

Best source for vacuum fuel pump fittings? Thank you. 2FFE4FFF-BEFF-47F7-816E-632DDC358CD0.jpeg.890d30a49bc92e7d1ef67fd328b7d0f1.jpeg

Is there a model Number on raised area? 
You will need a rebuild kit that is available thru Meyers Dodge parts.

i suggest your disassemble the vacuum tank and verify condition of inner and outer tanks. If water was present they may be rusted. Also purchase the following from DB club store.

 

9E89E42A-934F-40E1-A00B-8A29C89382FD.jpeg.b0aa0dd4ed136de8e0e0e361d2df0559.jpeg

This my operating Stewart Vacuum tank.

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12 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

Best source for vacuum fuel pump fittings? Thank you. 2FFE4FFF-BEFF-47F7-816E-632DDC358CD0.jpeg.890d30a49bc92e7d1ef67fd328b7d0f1.jpeg

I've bought brass fittings for my fuel lines and vacuum tank at my local hardware store.

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On 9/6/2022 at 4:04 PM, LastFrontierDodge said:

Where would one attach the choke control cable on Zenith carb? Thank you 0106A86F-76A9-4ABD-B714-5E4965DF5704.jpeg.d5319961711a307512d676f8b4574b2f.jpeg7EF03990-4249-41FA-A96C-84ECB3A2F963.jpeg.c184cba9eae6645fb2bf24544c784b98.jpeg

Hi Paul, sorry.. I'm just now seeing these last two posts (been busy with work and didn't see them when visiting the forums). I'll look into things and get back to you for the carb question.

 

I think ArticiferTom would be one to ask about the coil as he's extremely knowledgable about electricity. I'd look it up and find the answers but I'm frankly too exhausted (and lazy) to study right now. I will say there are many threads if you want to do a search for "testing a 6 volt coil" you might get your answer in the meantime. I think I know but don't want to give you the wrong answer so it's best to wait for others like Tom to respond.

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Sucked right in here Dave LOL . You can just hook up to a good engine and try . It takes a special tester , that are antiques themself ,to properly test . I believe a few year ago some one was doing it for free  . You may find in your search , thinking Edinmass. Most and myself hide new oil-less coil under dash and remove key and coil section from bezel replace with simply 3/4" two wire key on dyi bracket . And works better, looks perfect unless you crawl under dash . Totally reverse able ,no mods to original equipment .

20210812_200834.jpg.f23bf74a75525c2af4b33418aac76790.jpg20210818_110330.jpg.7279812f3310e33d64fe36ea96bc58b3.jpg20210813_152042.jpg.0dcf46dc9ec331945fb28a8773e9dba6.jpg

Edited by ArticiferTom
no mods. (see edit history)
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21 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

Perfect

Read the entire progress since day one. Looks like your getting closer to starting your engine. You will not need a radiator to run your engine for a very short time.

Your pics show the head removed. How did the valve seats look? If you have 60 psi compression they must be decent.

It is wise to get a good oil pressure reading.

Did you drop the oil pan yet? 

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Yes, slow and steady.

I was lucky enough to find someone local to test the radiator and learned it's good to go. I will add radiator back onto truck after its running. 

The valve seats were in somewhat decent shape, but since I had the head off, I did decide to hone them. They cleaned up nicely. 

I did drop the oil pan at the beginning of my journey and have since put it back on with a new gasket. I added an oil gauge too. 

Appreciate the advice.

 

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