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Recently purchased my first farm truck, which has always been a dream of mine. I believe it’s a 1928 3/4 ton series E-DA, per the paperwork that came with it. I have very little mechanical experience but I’d like to get the truck up and running. Need some guidance on what I am working with before I start. Stamped on the engine are the following numbers: 18928 & 210100. There is also a “L” stamped on the engine. The engine number on the right side reads: H105-948 with a “N” above it.  The interior identification plate is long gone. Looking for a decent manual for the truck and will be relying on this forum for help. Much appreciated. 

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This would be newer version of my 29. I do have the DA6 also but this earlier version is a carry over of the Graham Bros. Truck. Note the side window differences.

Great looking truck. Where are you located?

Check for a frame number located on the divers side above the from spring perch. It may also be on your original registration.

 

274A9886-48DB-445F-93FF-30A01DFCF7A2.jpeg.df3a261adae9a2df3f14e8831fe8ce21.jpeg34126194-6958-49B5-83BA-36E88E421577.jpeg.7dc9cc1801e24648f5fe073424c462ea.jpegBA311E7C-EB9C-46A3-8D0D-98077EB5F8F6.jpeg.d1998056fcfe308dd73889bcb7822e49.jpeg

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Welcome to the  forum... nice truck. As previously stated it is the DA6 engine. What is the wheelbase?

Frame number will possibly answer a lot of questions if you can find it. Here's a sample and  where to find it. 
Frame will be stamped with a letter D for Detroit built , E for Evansville IN built, or S for Stockton CA built - then followed by six digits.

Regards
Dave

 

Gboy 3.JPG

 

Gboy 2.JPG

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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In order to get it running you may need to replace the venturi in the Zenith updraft carb and/or have someone rebuild it. The venturi's were made of pot metal and typically disentigrated. The carb should be stamped with 114 1/2 on top  of the bowl, let me know if you can  confirm this. 

 

Also,  #25 on the illustration I am posting below, the heat manifold riser lever and spring are missing and may need to work properly before starting and it should hook to a cable that routes to your dash. Next the vacuum fuel tank should probably need to rebuilt prior to starting. You may try and start it without all of these things being addressed but you will probably start experiences issues shortly after starting it. Also, if you do try and start, always have a fire extinguisher handy because you never know what someone might have done prior to you owning it (wiring, fuel lines etc...)

 

Also, #35 and #37 on the illustration shows the crankcase ventilator tube and the air cleaner are missing.

 

I believe you'll find your truck is a 1929 or 1930, we can probably confirm the year with your frame number.

DA6 zenith.jpeg

35.jpg

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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522272 is P/N for front spring rear hanger on DA124 or DA133, those are the only two 6 cylinder trucks mentioned. 

I don't see 522273 in the parts book so I presume you have a DA133 model truck and it's either a typo in the book or mis labeled... these mistakes were more common that I'd like to see but they did happen.

 

Your truck is either a DA130 or DA133. I'm betting it's the DA133,

if so then you're looking for a DA133 parts list book and any other literature you can find. 

 

Year ranges according to Branhams is 1929-1931. Based on the engine number I think it has to be 1929 or early 1930. 
Frame # will tell us for sure.

 

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Just now, LastFrontierDodge said:

I appreciate all of the information. Can the frame number be any place else? I would really like to find it. 

Possibly but I'd be shocked if you find it anywhere else. Should be on the drivers side

 

Try these locations or all the way down the outer frame rail on drivers side. They were stamped  really faint  sometimes.

 

 

GB Firetruck 3.jpg

 

GB Firetruck 1.jpg

 

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When I first started a DA6 engine that someone give me I used this procedure:

 

Make sure you have free engine rotation first. Make sure ignition is off and use large socket to turn nut on the front pulley. I put a good shot of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder to help free the engine.

Remove top of the vacuum tank and use as temporary fuel tank. Be sure to replace top on tank before attempting to start.

Check the timing and proper point setting.

I was able to get mine to fire without using the manifold hear riser on the exhaust manifold. It was rusted in open position. Since I am in California I removed mine eventually and I just put a blocking plate there. If you use in those eastern winters you will have replace it.

Check oil level. You should not need water to get it fire for a short running time.

Getting to fire is only the first step.

Have a functioning fire extinguisher and having an additional help there would help also.

GOOD LUCK

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I would add to stakesides good advise . If engine has not been spun in while . You can get cheap hand suction/ pump from local auto store and prime through side oil channel plugs . Two guns full should get lube throughout . If some ones watches gauge you may see it even rise . If you want pulling plugs then will make hand cranking to get pump re-primed and oil circulating . Good Luck , Tom

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Not familiar with this later version of the “E” series truck but there appears to me the following:

1) the radiator outlet does not line up to the engine water filler inlet. My DA6 is quite different. Is it possible that you have a passenger car radiator? The passenger car has a lower water inlet that would line up with the radiator outlet.

2) distributor does not have retard/advance connection.

3) is there a throttle lever connection on the carburetor?

4) is this engine an original with the truck?

compare this DA6 truck engine to yours.

 

2C02A01F-03AC-4605-9CAD-1B2CF195EA7E.jpeg.90ab672d794f63dc7a0de9d5d53070fa.jpeg
 

9319CB2E-6B51-41CD-A3A7-832FF08A446A.jpeg.d49155bc5f02c9201739a3c8e95a6e98.jpeg

Edited by stakeside (see edit history)
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The radiator is stamped 622696L. The truck came with three other radiators. I do not know the origin of the radiator in the truck. The current radiator in the truck, needs to be fixed or replaced, it leaks per the seller. 
Do you have a better picture of distributor and missing parts?

There is a throttle level, however it’s currently not connected.

I do not know if the engine is original to truck. I’m trying to find original owner’s family for some history. 
 

The engine does not turn, but I’ve been adding some Marvel Mystery Oil in hopes of getting it free. 
 

Thanks again for the help. I’m a novice just trying to get the truck on the road again (hopefully). Paul. 

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Since the bed isn't original, I'd guess the stakebed on the far right of this brochure is how your truck may have been furnished when new. If you ever do find the frame number you might be able to send for a build card to see if it will tell you the exact option you had. 

1930 Specs 4.jpg

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20 hours ago, stakeside said:

 

4) is this engine an original with the truck?

compare this DA6 truck engine to yours.

 

2C02A01F-03AC-4605-9CAD-1B2CF195EA7E.jpeg.90ab672d794f63dc7a0de9d5d53070fa.jpeg
 

9319CB2E-6B51-41CD-A3A7-832FF08A446A.jpeg.d49155bc5f02c9201739a3c8e95a6e98.jpeg

 

Btw the first truck stakeside posted is an earlier DA6 with newer non original parts throughout the bay. Your truck on topic has a pretty complete original engine excluding the horn and oil filter, both are not original to that engine. We won't know if the engine is original to the truck for sure unless you can send for a build card and locate a frame #. It's all guess work at this point so we're all trying our best to help and that's ok if you just want to get it running again and enjoy it. The history is always a plus but definitely not necessary. Enjoy it.

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14 hours ago, LastFrontierDodge said:

B0B8845C-B941-4234-94A0-591772BA3DD4.jpeg.e8778ea53c7968cd1b624cb2eb3e9180.jpeg239FFCAB-A093-4A29-8D6C-FE2D86B135B2.jpeg.c9b6e4659b9e8120c5d2d44fe890ba45.jpegCF721773-4870-47D1-87C6-51BC6CB0D716.jpeg.06e76807eca85c74404efa8687a6d681.jpegHere are some pics of included radiator plus radiator removed from truck. Bracket was welded onto old radiator. Assuming I’ll have to remove it and put it onto newer radiator. 

My original  radiator has a steel plate on bottom with 2 large studs attached. These studs bolt to the front frame crossmenber. Does your crossmember have holes in it for studs.

It appears this radiator was modified to fit the truck radiator shell.

 

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Hey Paul, Happy New Year to you and yours also..

 

I'll try and say this with as much encouragement as possible. With these Dodge Brothers trucks, there really isn't any one place that sources parts. If you're wanting something specific the best way is to post like you're doing on this forum or other forums that has parts. If you scroll through this website you can post a wanted ad or view the parts for sale free to anyone. Also, you my consider becoming a member of the Dodge Brothers Club and post on the Dodge Brothers Club forum or look at the newsletter they put out quarterly for parts. There's the usual sites like ebay, craigslist and any swap meets or other auction sites for parts. There are two well known Dodge Brothers parts sites called Myers and Romar but you will find those are mostly car related and doesn't really help us truck guys  much. They do offer some things for trucks so they are worth checking out from time to time. George at Romar is very good with trucks and is helpful when he has time. 

 

Myers Early Dodge

 

ROMAR Home Page (romardb.com)

 

Best of luck

Dave.

 

 

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Without a frame number or build card it's hard to tell you exactly what books to be looking for plus you mentioned the wheelbase is 131". This is confusing because the only two possible DA6 engine chassis were either a DA130" or a DA133" wheelbase model. 

 

Regardless, if it's a 130" wheelbase or a 133" wheelbase one of the books you'll need is the owners instructional manual.

Here's a pic of it along with what a parts list book looks like. The books go based off of year and frame # so you'll have to either continue to look for the frame number or you'll be guessing at which books are correct for your truck. This should give you and idea of what the books look like though. Note, I think your truck is a 1 ton based on the wheelbase, but the parts list book I'm posting a photo of is just an example of the E series 3/4 ton truck and an example of the frame numbers starting range. Again, these books are only examples.

 

 

DA133 and U133.jpg

E series 3 qtr ton.jpg

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On 12/30/2021 at 5:35 PM, LastFrontierDodge said:

B0B8845C-B941-4234-94A0-591772BA3DD4.jpeg.e8778ea53c7968cd1b624cb2eb3e9180.jpeg239FFCAB-A093-4A29-8D6C-FE2D86B135B2.jpeg.c9b6e4659b9e8120c5d2d44fe890ba45.jpegCF721773-4870-47D1-87C6-51BC6CB0D716.jpeg.06e76807eca85c74404efa8687a6d681.jpegHere are some pics of included radiator plus radiator removed from truck. Bracket was welded onto old radiator. Assuming I’ll have to remove it and put it onto newer radiator. 

 

Yeah, it looks like the radiator you need (for correct upper hose routing) is stamped 557209, but as you said, you will have to reweld a new bracket with studs that sit at the crossmember support. No big deal.. I'd just make sure the radiator holds water first and mock everything up prior to welding would be my only advice. 

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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On 12/31/2021 at 9:51 AM, LastFrontierDodge said:

I would say it was modified. What should it look like without modifications?545B60AB-1DE6-428C-A6AC-29A02BE42959.jpeg.da0f214bb63238a15fa4194cc8d770ef.jpeg

My mounting holes on my 124" wheelbase DA truck crossmember are exactly like yours and since the DA124 and DA130 and DA133 frequently used the  same or similar parts you may want to look at this bracket I'm posting.

 

Measurements for my radiatior are 28 1/4" H  when I measurement from the very bottom outside edge of the bracket to the bottom edge of the upper tank from the inside.  Then,  from the same outer edge of the bottom bracket to the very top of my tank it's 31 1/4".  Inside width is 20". 

 

Here are a few pics of how my bracket seats with the shroud on and once you remove the shround, notice the curve in the bracket, it appears to be factory riveted on. 

 

It's important to note the radiator Tom posted is probably shorter and will look different than these pictures, I only point that out so you are not confused on what bracket you'll need and what the overall look should be once finished.

 

 

R 2.jpg

R 3.jpg

R 4.jpg

R 5.jpg

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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When it is finished you should not have an opening on the bottom like you had previously...

Just to give you an idea of what it should be in order to fit snug. 

 

The radiator cap alone took me 6 years to locate just to give you an idea of how patient you'll need to be when trying to locate parts. Dodge Brothers are much different than off the shelf Ford Model A's or T's...

 

 

 

 

R 9.jpg

 

image.png.9d77d47190587b56cf34a3a8378027c8.png

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Here is the winged radiator emblem you'll need. Still time to bid if you need it. It's missing the studs but I have a good one if you need it for specs to put new ones on the back.

 

Dodge Brothers Radiator Emblem Badge | Art, Antiques & Collectibles  Collectibles  Transportation Collectibles  | Online Auctions | Proxibid

 

283-1.jpg

 

We can all post other parts info as time permits. I noticed a few other things like side mirror and bracket are missing, the headlamp lenses to name a couple of other things we can help keep an eye for if you'd like.

 

Edit: 

Here's another one in mint condition from another AACA board member for $300- 

1928-1938 Dodge Brothers Emblems Open to Serious Offers - Dodge & Dodge Brothers - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)

 

photo 2.JPG

 

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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