alsfarms Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 Good news from my side of the pond. I have spoken with the same fellow that went through the 1909 4 cylinder model L Locomobile engine and he made it run like a well oiled Swiss watch. I should have the engine mounted on my old factory built engine stand in two or three weeks. I will then be taking it to the shop to have it evaluated, repaired as needed and detailed. We also have a very good clutch shop lined up to rebuild the clutch. I actually am thinking a clutch failure is why the Demarest Limousine was taken off the road years ago and not an engine failure. This Locomobile came with the engine fully assembled and is not stuck. It also came with two clutch assemblies, which fact lead my thinking to a clutch failure. Hopefully, we will soon know for sure. The plan is to clean internals verify condition and detail it as ready to install back in the Limousine. I am negotiating with a body shop to repair some aluminum panels to include, hood side panels, splash aprons and one door. Each of the fenders will need some repair but that is very doable, then I should be ready for some initial assembly. If anyone reading this engine related chat and has any mechanical hints, you have learned along the way, please share your thoughts. While this mechanical work is going on, I am also getting after lights and other detail items. I possibly could be ready for a trial start in a year or so. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 (edited) Today I can report: The pipes before and after the new muffler are done for my 1917 tourer, and I also added a sensor for the air-fuel-ration. Today I installed everything and did a test-drive. Finally I am in the position to fine-tune the carburetor without gessing but with data to compare. You may recall: I manufactured the new muffler exactly like the sample from my original 1921 Sedan, with only one exception: I added the cut-out-flap at the muffler entrance, according to the technical drawings shown in the 1917 spare parts book. I tried the fitment of the new muffler on the Sedan first, in order to confirm the mounting brackets and flange positions. It worked well. Last week I cut the ugle non-original exhaust system away from my tourer. One of the previous owners had welded a modern muffler in, he also cut the 70mm pipe from the manifold to the muffler into pieces, for the installation of an exhaust bypass valve. I assume he wanted to operate a whizzle? But it looks like this project was never finished. The installation of the Bowden cable was so lousy it could never have worked. I also didn't find any trace of a whizzle or pipes and hoses for connecting one. Now all that went into the rubbish bin. Edited October 16, 2022 by Ittenbacher Frank (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 I salvaged as much original pipe as possible, just replaced the missing areas. Then I mounted the new muffler, luckily the brackets on the chassis frame were still original and not modified. It fits well. Now I could position the flange at the end of the repaired pipe. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 16, 2022 Share Posted October 16, 2022 Hello Frank, What is your preferred weld method for joining light guage sheet metal tubing? MIG, TIG or Gas Welding? You should be happy that you are improving both of your Locomobiles while keeping the very authentic in design. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 Preparing the tail pipe to the rear of the car was easy, because I had previously already machined a short pipe with exactly the diameter necessary for the clamp at the end of the muffler. When finished, I could assemble it easily with a bit of copper-grease. The last step was adding a threaded connector for the sensor (they call it bung, outside 1", inside M18x1.5) in one of the new parts of the pipe, just befor the gas enteres into the muffler. The senor manual says: at least 24 inches behind the cylinder head. The Loco is long enough to exceed this value easily! Then I painted everything with high-temperature paint. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 Just now, alsfarms said: Hello Frank, What is your preferred weld method for joining light guage sheet metal tubing? MIG, TIG or Gas Welding? You should be happy that you are improving both of your Locomobiles while keeping the very authentic in design. Al Al, simply shielded gas welding MIG, nothing special. That old metal used by Locomobile is very easy to weld, I guess because it is pure, not made with any scrap content? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 One more hint: I know that exhaust systems expand quite much due to heat. Several mm along the length of the car. Mr. Riker made no provision for compensating that. Flexible element like today were also not used, perhaps they thought it was not necessary if the engine is bolted rigidly to the chassis? Anyhow, I intensionally made the pipe in a way that it is 3mm too short. When I tightened the two bolts on the flange, the gap closed easily because the two chassis brackets act like springs. I assume when the car has reached operating temperature, there will be no tension any more. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 (edited) Here is the sensor which I bought. A friend recommended it because it has a wide range (good for the use on old engines if they run very rich) and it reacts very fast. I need this because I want to do road tests, and for example observe the function of the accelerator pump. Edited October 16, 2022 by Ittenbacher Frank (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 One more hint: The measuring equipment needs 12V and minus at the chassis. The Loco has 6V and + is on the chassis. Not good, but I found an easy way to overcome this: I bought a small voltage converter, connected the two input cables vice-versa (red=+ to ground, black=minus to the Loco ignition), and the 12V-out as it is required for the sensor (yellow=plus and black =minus). Then I made a temporary bracket for the display, attached to the steering column. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 Today the first road test was successful: The lambda-values shown on the display confirmed what I expected: The Loco runs ok with values slightly on the rich side (10-12), and it is to lean (above 15) when it pops and coughs. Now I must find reason why it sometimes becomes too rich and sometimes too lean, and the ways to make the carburetor work properly in all situations! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 16, 2022 Share Posted October 16, 2022 This is extremely good information! Thanks for posting. Suggest how you go about proceeding from this instrument to adjusting your Locmobile carburetor to correct for a lean or rich condition. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 (edited) 41 minutes ago, alsfarms said: This is extremely good information! Thanks for posting. Suggest how you go about proceeding from this instrument to adjusting your Locmobile carburetor to correct for a lean or rich condition. Al There are several ways for adjustment. The two which are explained in the manual are: 1. air valve screw (thumb screw), 2. needle valve (the one with the dial). I tried them already, both work (the engine reacts on very small changes already). These settings influence each other. There are many more influencing factors: fuel level (height), nozzle sizes (low speed, high speed), venturi sizes, and over everything there is the accelerating pump function. I will see and report. Edited October 16, 2022 by Ittenbacher Frank (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 16, 2022 Share Posted October 16, 2022 1 hour ago, Ittenbacher Frank said: Today the first road test was successful: The lambda-values shown on the display confirmed what I expected: The Loco runs ok with values slightly on the rich side (10-12), and it is to lean (above 15) when it pops and coughs. Now I must find reason why it sometimes becomes too rich and sometimes too lean, and the ways to make the carburetor work properly in all situations! The reason is it’s a Locomobile carburetor. Notoriously difficult instrument. Many ended up on shelves or in the scrap bin. Rayfield carburetors made a counter intuitive setup but they ran better than a factory setup. Just like Bosch won the magneto battle Zenith won the carburetor war. I am sure you will suss out some improvements but for it to perform in all ranges will involve serious tinkering as the British say. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 (edited) 9 hours ago, George K said: The reason is it’s a Locomobile carburetor. Notoriously difficult instrument. Many ended up on shelves or in the scrap bin. Rayfield carburetors made a counter intuitive setup but they ran better than a factory setup. Just like Bosch won the magneto battle Zenith won the carburetor war. I am sure you will suss out some improvements but for it to perform in all ranges will involve serious tinkering as the British say. Dear George, can you please explain your meaning of "Rayfield carburetors made a counter intuitive setup"? Thanks to enlighten us. Edited October 17, 2022 by Ittenbacher Frank (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 (edited) 9 hours ago, George K said: The reason is it’s a Locomobile carburetor. Notoriously difficult instrument. Many ended up on shelves or in the scrap bin. Rayfield carburetors made a counter intuitive setup but they ran better than a factory setup. Just like Bosch won the magneto battle Zenith won the carburetor war. I am sure you will suss out some improvements but for it to perform in all ranges will involve serious tinkering as the British say. George, I have studied the details of all Locos I could find, some in reality, mostly online (auction details etc.): From app. 65 different 1915-1925 models 38 and 48, I was able to see the carburetor side of the engine on 39 cars. 38 cars have a Locomobile carburetor, only one is converted to a Zenith (see below, a 1917 model 38). I don't belive they were all bad when the cars were new, but you are absolutely right, they are more difficult than others. Edited October 17, 2022 by Ittenbacher Frank (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 Good Morning Frank. You are posing an interesting aspect of running-driving-tuning of the Locomobile Carburetor. I certainly believe that in the teens and 20's carburetor development was still well in its infancy. I also have a complex original Locomobile carburetor on my 1909 Locomobile Model L. It is now running on a Carter BB1. However when I can dedicate some time strictly to sorting out the Locomobile carburetor, I plan to do so. Sure I understand, the BB1 is a much newer carburetor with significant improvements over any carburetor developed in 1909 so I should expect a better running and tunable carburetor. In the case above, is the Zenith carburetor a contemporary of the original Locomobile carburetor or is it a more modern model? It would be nice to know the story behind the Model 38 running a Zenith. There may be an interesting story....... Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 This is an earlier report of a 48 running a Rayfield carburetor. I posted it before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 20, 2022 Share Posted October 20, 2022 On 10/17/2022 at 3:09 AM, Ittenbacher Frank said: George, I have studied the details of all Locos I could find, some in reality, mostly online (auction details etc.): From app. 65 different 1915-1925 models 38 and 48, I was able to see the carburetor side of the engine on 39 cars. 38 cars have a Locomobile carburetor, only one is converted to a Zenith (see below, a 1917 model 38). I don't belive they were all bad when the cars were new, but you are absolutely right, they are more difficult than others. There is at least one more Locomobile running a Zenith carburetor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbking Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) Checking the Zenith aftermarket catalog from 1921, found the following: 1910 P/A model 36 Zenith type L5 1911-12 P/A model 36 Zenith type L6S 1915-1920 P/A model 48 Zenith type L7 These were sold with P/A calibrations by Zenith. There is no entry for a P/A model 38 in this catalog. Checking the Rayfield aftermarket catalog from 1917, found many P/A applications, two of which are: 1913-1917 P/A model 38 Rayfield type G-4 1913-1917 P/A model 48 Rayfield type G-5 Jon. Edited October 21, 2022 by carbking (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 Hello John, Thanks for this information. The Model 36, 38 and 48 Pierce-Arrow have very similar specifications to Locomobile 38 and 48. Does your early Zenith have any direct reference to Model L, I, (4 cylinder) R, M or also 38 or 48 Locomobile (6 cylinder)? Your contributions are very meaningful to this ongoing Locomobile chat. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbking Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) This would have been MUCH easier if this forum would accept PDF files! These are ALL of the index entries for Pierce Arrow by Rayfield, Stromberg, and Zenith; listed as year, P/A model, carburetor type Rayfield: 1906~1909 models 28-32 type G-3 1907~1909 models 40-45 type G-4 1909 model 6-66 type G-5 1910 model 36 type G-3 1910 model 66 type G-6 1911~1912 models 36, 36T type G-3 1911~1912 model 6-48 type G-5 1912~1917 model 6-66 type G-6 1913~1917 model 5-ton type G-3 1913~1915 model 2-ton type G-2 1913~1918 model 6-38 type G-4 1913~1918 model 6-48 type G-5 Stromberg: 1911~1912 model 6-48 type O-3 1912~1916 model 5-ton type M-2 1913~1915 model 66A type M-5 1913~1914 model 48 type O-3 1913~1914 model 48 type O-3 1915 model 38 type O-3 1915~1920 model 48 type O-3 Zenith: 1910 model 36 type L-5 1911~1912 model 36, 36T type L-6S 1915~1920 model 6-48 type L-7 1917 model 5-ton type L-6S 1919 model X4 type L7 Each of the index listings is for a DIFFERENT CALIBRATION even though some of the carburetor types are the same. I have not had the opportunity to play with a genuine Locomobile carburetor, so do not know anything about them. Of the three brands mentioned above, both Zenith and Stromberg are, in my opinion, excellent for their day. As to the Rayfield, I would rather have a Marvel for those who have read other of my posts. EDIT: IT MUST BE FRIDAY! I LOOKED UP P/A INSTEAD OF LOCOMOBILE. Will look further. Sorry Jon Edited October 21, 2022 by carbking (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbking Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) OK, same comment on the acceptance of PDF files. The following are ALL of the index entries for LOCOMOBILE from Rayfield, Stromberg and Zenith. Rayfield: 1912 model 48 type G4P 1912~1913 model L type G4P 1913 model M3 type G5P 1913 model R-3-4 type G4P 1914~1917 model H-R-6-38 type G5P 1917~1919 model 6-48 type G5P Stromberg: 1912~1914 model R type O-3 with 1 3/16 venturi 1915~1917 model R-4-38 type O-3 with 1 1/8 venturi 1915~1921 model 6-48 type O-3 with 1 1/4 venturi Zenith: 1911 model 6-48 type L-5C 1912 model 6-48 type U-6 Maybe the P/A folks can benefit from my in-attention in my last post. Jon. Edited October 21, 2022 by carbking (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 21, 2022 Author Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) Today I can report a first progress: The sensor in the exhaust pipe works well and will definitely help me in finding the proper carburetor adjustment. The air-fuel-ratio-values shown on the display are reasonable: - theoretically best value = 14,7: The Loco engine runs smoothly, feels ok. - best power shall be at 12-13: The engine runs well, lively, feels ok. - theoretically too rich: when I see values between 9 and 11, I can still feel no difference, engine runs smoothly (!) - too lean: as soon as the values exceed 15...16...17, the engine will pop, or even cough. - values above 20: more misses than running, terrible, no use. When the engine idles and you turn the air valve thumb nut in and out, you feel and hear a diffence after you have adjusted half a turn in or half a turn out (360° = 8 klicks). On the sensor display you see the air-fuel ratio changing after 1 or 2 klicks already! I can also see the values changing when going steep uphill (leaner) or steep downhill (richer), but not as much as I expected. I think that has a lot to do with the setting of the fuel level height in the float chamber. Today I can say: The Locomobile engine can cope with far too rich air-fuel-ratios, which you cannot easily detect while driving. When adjusting something, the sensor shows changes much earlier than you can detect by listening. Edited December 2, 2022 by Ittenbacher Frank (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 22, 2022 Author Share Posted October 22, 2022 14 hours ago, carbking said: I have not had the opportunity to play with a genuine Locomobile carburetor, so do not know anything about them. Dear Jon, I remember you saying over the phone: In all these years working on carburetors, you never came across one of these Ball&Ball-Locomobile series two carburetors, the two-stage design with accelerator pump. But you helped me in estimating that the fuel level in the float chamber shell be adjusted to a height app. 1/8" below the top of the main discharge nozzle, perhaps I can also try 3/16". That helped a lot, thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 22, 2022 Author Share Posted October 22, 2022 As a beginning on Carburetor adjustment issues, I like to show the air valve with it's thumb nut. It is readily accessible and can be adjusted when the engine idles (I also tried that during driving on the road, my daughter sitting on the running board, but this was not a good idea because 1. at that time the ignition still had big problems which overruled all other attemps for improvement, and 2. that attracted other drivers too much...). Look at the photos: The one with the bigger holes is for Locomobile model 48 (stamped "M"), the other ("R", still dirty) for the smaller model 38. I mentioned already: one click (1/8 of a turn) is changing the air-fuel-ratio significantly. In the 1916 Locomobile road test reports I found they changed the spring in this valve (different spring rate). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 22, 2022 Share Posted October 22, 2022 17 hours ago, Ittenbacher Frank said: Today I can report a first progress: The sensor in the exhaust pipe works well and will definitely help me in finding the proper carburetor adjustment. The air-fuel-ratio-values shown on the display are reasonable: - theoretically best value = 14,7: The Loco engine runs smoothly, feels ok. - best power shall be at 12-13: The engine runs well, lively, feels ok. - theoretically too rich: when I see values between 9 and 11, I can still feel no difference, engine runs smoothly (!) - too lean: as soon as the values exceed 15...16...17, the engine will pop, or even cough. - values above 20: more misses than running, terrible, no use. When the engine idles and you turn the air valve thumb nut in and out, you feel and hear a diffence after you have adjusted half a turn in or half a turn out (360° = 8 klicks). On the sensor display you see the air-fuel ratio changing after 1 or 2 klicks already! I can also see the values changing when going steep uphill (leaner) or steep downhill (richer), but not as much as I expected. I think that has a lot to do with the setting of the fuel level height in the float chamber. Today I can say: The Loco engine can cope with far too rich air-fuel-ratios, which you cannot easily detect while driving. When adjusting something, the sensor shows changes much earlier than you can detect by listening. I always err on the pudgy side. No harm and forget mileage. Learned a long time ago to give it a click to the fat side. Great modern instrument to verify what we learned by trial and error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 22, 2022 Author Share Posted October 22, 2022 (edited) On 10/22/2022 at 2:43 PM, George K said: I always err on the pudgy side. No harm and forget mileage. Learned a long time ago to give it a click to the fat side. Great modern instrument to verify what we learned by trial and error. Exactly this I did all my life: the factory recommendations as a starting point (if available...), then fine-tuning by try and error, when it feels ok I try the engine on various road and wether conditions, after some time examining the spark plugs, and definitely never go too lean! But when working on the Loco I came to my limits: too many parameters to play with, and the "feeling" told me: without touching anything in between, it ran too rich and a few minutes later too lean and popped. One more thought: The Loco is a pleasure car, and not made for being the cheapest way of transportation. But...5-6 mpg is not acceptable, especially not if we talk about normal driving over normal country roads, without extended periods of idle (e.g. heavy traffic) or speeding with much use of the carburetor's second stage. An improvement of only 1 mpg saves already the amount of fuel which a "normal" car needs for driving the same distance! Edited October 25, 2022 by Ittenbacher Frank (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 23, 2022 Share Posted October 23, 2022 Just a few follow up pictures regarding carburetors. Last photo shows a 48 that ran a Rayfield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 23, 2022 Author Share Posted October 23, 2022 (edited) On 10/23/2022 at 4:02 AM, George K said: Just a few follow up pictures regarding carburetors. Last photo shows a 48 that ran a Rayfield. Thanks, George. I saw that chassis before, it belongs to the Loco limousine which Bob's friend has. Did you notice? There is one more intresting modification: The inlet manifold got two additional ports. The gas flow is divided twice: 1-in-2-in-6 instead of the original 1-in-6. I assume they wanted to archieve a more even distribution? I can say: whenever I looked at the Loco spark plugs, all 12 had the same colour and lightness, except some occasions when something was wrong, but then the difference was not between the center cylinder and the front or rear. I think above manifold could initially have been made for the use of two carburetors, then later changed back to one again? Edited October 25, 2022 by Ittenbacher Frank (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 23, 2022 Share Posted October 23, 2022 Frank, I noticed the split manifold and it hit me as something I have seen before. Don’t remember where. One thought is perhaps one of the mythical Durant 48’s. Just a thought. I am all good with your addendum. No matter how good of tuning you’re still pushing six thousand pounds. Best, George. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 23, 2022 Share Posted October 23, 2022 P.S. By mythical I am referring to 1926 to the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ittenbacher Frank Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 1 hour ago, George K said: Dear George, you seem to have endless resources...what year was this written? I guess at the end of 1923, for introducing the 19000-series? The flexile connection coil springs between crankshaft and crankshaft gear which is mentioned could be this, I assume: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Spot on. That summary was 1923. This article is 1924. Hope it’s legible. These old hands don’t like to be still anymore. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 (edited) George, You very certainly have my attention with this information that directly is pertinent to my 1925 Locomobile Limousine. I will study and likely will have a few questions. Al Edited October 24, 2022 by alsfarms clarity (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 I decided to chime in on the split manifold topic, in case this information adds anything. The engine number is 12681, 1917 model year. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 36 minutes ago, rydersclassics said: I decided to chime in on the split manifold topic, in case this information adds anything. The engine number is 12681, 1917 model year. Hello that engine # suggests it being more like known 1920 engines in cars sold at auction. Thanks for posting its #. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 LIST OF CARS Manufactured by THE LOCOMOBILE COMPANY OF AMERICA SHOWING CAR NUMBER, YEAR, MODEL AND LOCATION OF THE STEERING WHEEL Reproduced from original factory records by The Locomobile Society of America 3165 California Street, San Francisco, California 94115 Car No. Year Model Right Or Left 1-11 1903 D Right 12-13 1903 C Right 14-36 1903 D Right 37-46 1903 C Right 47-60 1903 D Right 61-75 1903 C Right 76-77 1903 D Right 78-223 1904 D Right 224 Never Built 225-227 1904 D Right 228 1904 C Right 229 Never Built 230-277 1904 C Right 278 1904 E Right 279 1904 I Right 280-340 1905 D Right 341-379 1906 E Right 380-579 1905 E Right 580-679 1905 H Right 680-704 1905 F Right 705-706 1905 H Right 707 Racer 708-918 1906 E Right 919-1118 1906 H Right 1119-1418 1907 E Right 1419-1437 1907 H Right 1438 No Comment 1439-1458 1907 H Right 1459 No Comment 1460-1620 1907 H Right 1621-1870 1908 E Right 1871-1874 1908 I Right x1875 1908 I Right 1876-1879 1908 I Right x1880 1908 I Right 1881-1896 1908 I Right x1897 1908 I Right 1898-1919 1908 I Right x1920 1908 I Right 1921 1908 I Right x1922 1908 I Right 1923-1942 1908 I Right x1943 1908 I Right 1944-1951 1908 I Right x1952 1908 I Right 1953 1908 I Right x1954 1908 I Right 1955 1908 I Right x1956 1908 I Right 1957-1968 1908 I Right x1969 1908 L Right 1970-2019 1908 I Right x2020 1908 I Right 2021-2037 1908 I Right x2038 1908 I Right 2039-2040 1908 I Right x2041 1908 I Right 2042-2047 1908 I Right x2048-2049 1908 I Right 2050 1908 I Right x2051 1908 I Right 2052 1908 I Right x2053-2054 1908 I Right 2055-2058 1908 I Right x2059 1908 I Right 2060-2064 1908 I Right x2065-2066 1908 I Right 2067-2068 1908 I Right x2069-2071 1908 I Right 2072 1908 I Right x2073-2075 1908 I Right 2076 1908 I Right x2077 1908 I Right 2078-2080 1908 I Right x2081 1908 I Right 2082-2085 1908 I Right x2086-2087 1908 I Right 2088 1908 I Right x2089-2092 1908 I Right 2093-2094 1908 I Right x2095-2096 1908 I Right 2097 1908 I Right x2098-2105 1908 I Right 2106 1908 I Right x2107-2108 1908 L Right 2109-2110 1908 I Right x2111 1908 I Right 2112-2117 1908 I Right x2118 1908 I Right 2119-2135 1908 I Right x2136 1908 I Right 2137 1908 I Right x2138 1908 L Right 2139-2145 1908 I Right x2146 1908 I Right 2147 1908 I Right x2148 1908 I Right 2149-2156 1908 I Right x2157-2158 1908 I Right 2159-2170 1908 I Right 1908 cars marked x carried over to 1909 2171-2270 1909 I-2 Right 2271-2307 1909 L Right 2308-2312 1909 E-4 Right 2313-2565 1909 L Right x2566-2612 1909 L Right 2613-2779 1909 L Right x2780-2812 1909 L Right 2813-2912 1909 L-2 Right 1909 Cars marked x carried over to 1910 2913-3078 1910 L-2 Right x3079 1910 L-2 Right 3080-3112 1910 L-2 Right x3113 1910 L-2 Right 3114-3143 1910 L-2 Right x3144 1910 L-2 Right 3145-3189 1910 L-2 Right x3190 1910 L-2 Right 3191-3205 1910 L-2 Right x3206 1910 L-2 Right 3207-3224 1910 L-2 Right x3225 1910 L-2 Right 3226-3276 1910 L-2 Right x3277 1910 L-2 Right 3278-3281 1910 L-2 Right x3282-3283 1910 L-2 Right 3284 1910 L-2 Right x3285 1910 L-2 Right 3286-3287 1910 L-2 Right x3288 1910 L-2 Right 3289 1910 L-2 Right x3290-3291 1910 L-2 Right 3292-3296 1910 L-2 Right x3297 1910 L-2 Right 3298-3301 1910 L-2 Right x3302 1910 L-2 Right 3303-3304 1910 L-2 Right x3305-3309 1910 L-2 Right 3310 1910 L-2 Right x3311 1910 L-2 Right Car No. Year Model Right Or Left 3312 1910 L-2 Right x3313 1910 L-2 Right 3314-3317 1910 L-2 Right x3318-3320 1910 L-2 Right 3321-3325 1910 L-2 Right x3326 1910 L-2 Right 3327-3329 1910 L-2 Right x3330-3334 1910 L-2 Right 3335 1910 L-2 Right x3336 1910 L-2 Right 3337 1910 L-2 Right x3338-3341 1910 L-2 Right 3342 1910 L-2 Right x3343 1910 L-2 Right 3344-3345 1910 L-2 Right x3346-3352 1910 L-2 Right 3353 1910 L-2 Right x3354 1910 L-2 Right 3355 1910 L-2 Right x3356-3360 1910 L-2 Right 3361 1910 L-2 Right x3362 1910 L-2 Right 3363-3458 1910 L-2 Right x3459 1910 L-2 Right 3460 1910 L-2 Right x3461 1910 L-2 Right 3462-3492 1910 L-2 Right x3493-3494 1910 L-2 Right 3495-3496 1910 L-2 Right x3497 1910 L-2 Right 3498 1910 L-2 Right x3499 1910 L-2 Right 3500-3542 1910 L-2 Right x3543 1910 L-2 Right 3544-3658 1910 L-2 Right x3659 1910 L-2 Right 3660-3712 1910 L-2 Right 3713-3912 1910 I Right 3913-3945 1910 L-2 Right x3946 1910 L-2 Right 3947-3954 1910 L-2 Right x3955 1910 L-2 Right 3956 1910 L-2 Right x3957-3958 1910 L-2 Right 3959 1910 L-2 Right x3960-3966 1910 L-2 Right 3967-3971 1910 L-2 Right x3972-4032 1910 L-2 Right 4033 1910 L-2 Right x4034-4100 1910 L-2 Right 4101-4108 1910 L-2 Right x4109 1910 L-2 Right 4110-4112 Not Listed 1910 Cars marked x carried over to 1911 4113-4120 1911 L-3 Right x4121-4123 1911 L-3 Right 4124-4131 1911 L-3 Right x4132 1911 L-3 Right 4133-4136 1911 L-3 Right x4137 1911 L-3 Right 4138-4141 1911 L-3 Right x4142 1911 L-3 Right 4143 1911 L-3 Right x4144-4145 1911 L-3 Right 4146 1911 L-3 Right x4147-4148 1911 L-3 Right 4149 1911 L-3 Right x4150 1911 L-3 Right 4151-4155 1911 L-3 Right x4156-4157 1911 L-3 Right 4158 1911 L-3 Right x4159 1911 L-3 Right 4160-4161 1911 L-3 Right x4162 1911 L-3 Right 4163-4164 1911 L-3 Right x4165 1911 L-3 Right 4166-4167 1911 L-3 Right x4168 1911 L-3 Right 4169-4171 1911 L-3 Right x4172 1911 L-3 Right 4173-4175 1911 L-3 Right x4176-4177 1911 L-3 Right 4178-4180 1911 L-3 Right x4181-4182 1911 L-3 Right 4183 1911 L-3 Right x4184-4186 1911 L-3 Right 4187-4191 1911 L-3 Right x4192 1911 L-3 Right 4193 1911 L-3 Right x4194 1911 L-3 Right 4195 1911 L-3 Right x4196 1911 L-3 Right 4197-4200 1911 L-3 Right x4201 1911 L-3 Right 4202 1911 L-3 Right x4203 1911 L-3 Right 4204-4205 1911 L-3 Right x4206-4209 1911 L-3 Right 4210-4216 1911 L-3 Right x4217 1911 L-3 Right 4218-4230 1911 L-3 Right x4231-4232 1911 L-3 Right 4233-4238 1911 L-3 Right x4239-4240 1911 L-3 Right 4241 1911 L-3 Right x4242 1911 L-3 Right 4243-4247 1911 L-3 Right x4248 1911 L-3 Right 4249-4251 1911 L-3 Right x4252-4253 1911 L-3 Right 4254-4255 1911 L-3 Right x4256 1911 L-3 Right 4257-4280 1911 L-3 Right x4281 1911 L-3 Right 4282-4283 1911 L-3 Right x4284 1911 L-3 Right 4285-4290 1911 L-3 Right x4291 1911 L-3 Right 4292 1911 L-3 Right x4293 1911 L-3 Right 4294-4295 1911 L-3 Right x4296 1911 L-3 Right 4297-4298 1911 L-3 Right x4299-4300 1911 L-3 Right 4301 1911 L-3 Right x4302 1911 L-3 Right 4303 1911 L-3 Right x4304 1911 L-3 Right 4305-4308 1911 L-3 Right x4309-4311 1911 L-3 Right 4312 1911 L-3 Right x4313-4320 1911 L-3 Right 4321-4324 1911 L-3 Right x4325 1911 L-3 Right 4326 1911 L-3 Right x4327 1911 L-3 Right 4328 1911 L-3 Right x4329-4390 1911 L-3 Right 4391-4398 1911 L-3 Right x4399 1911 L-3 Right 4400-4403 1911 L-3 Right Car No. Year Model Right Or Left x4404 1911 L-3 Right 4405 1911 L-3 Right x4406 1911 L-3 Right 4407-4417 1911 L-3 Right x4418 1911 L-3 Right 4419-4424 1911 L-3 Right x4425 1911 L-3 Right 4426-4433 1911 L-3 Right x4434 1911 L-3 Right 4435-4447 1911 L-3 Right x4448-4449 1911 L-3 Right 4450-4474 1911 L-3 Right x4475 1911 L-3 Right 4476-4495 1911 L-3 Right x4496 1911 L-3 Right 4497-4498 1911 L-3 Right x4499 1911 L-3 Right 4500-4505 1911 L-3 Right x4506 1911 L-3 Right 4507-4513 1911 L-3 Right x4514-4515 1911 L-3 Right 4516-4517 1911 L-3 Right x4518-4521 1911 L-3 Right 4522-4524 1911 L-3 Right x4525 1911 L-3 Right 4526-4528 1911 L-3 Right x4529 1911 L-3 Right 4530 1911 L-3 Right x4531 1911 L-3 Right 4532-4533 1911 L-3 Right x4534 1911 L-3 Right 4535-4536 1911 L-3 Right x4537 1911 L-3 Right 4538 1911 L-3 Right x4539-4541 1911 L-3 Right 4542-4545 1911 L-3 Right x4546-4551 1911 L-3 Right 4552-4573 1911 L-3 Right x4574-4579 1911 L-3 Right 4580 1911 L-3 Right x4581-4612 1911 L-3 Right 4613-4614 1911 K Right 4615-4616 1911 O Right 4617-4920 1911 M Right 4921-4925 1911 I Right 1911 Cars marked x also 1910 Cars No. 3461, 3972, 4008 and 4064 carried over to 1912. 4926-4930 1912 I Right 4931-5433 1912 M-2 Right 5434-5511 1912 L-4 Right x5512-5553 1912 L-4 Right 5554-5603 1912 L-4 Right x5604-5633 1912 L-4 Right 5634-5677 1912 L-4 Right x5678 1912 L-4 Right 5679-5683 1912 L-4 Right 5684-5685 1912 R Right 1912 Cars marked x carried over to 1913. 5686 1913 M Right 5687 1912 L Right 5688 No Comment 5689 1913 M Right 5690-5939 1913 R-2 Right 5940-6039 1913 M-3 Right 6040-6339 1913 R-2 Right 6340-6639 1913 M-3 Right 6640-6805 1913 R-2 Right x6806-6813 1913 R-2 Right 6814 1913 R-2 Right x6815-6888 1913 R-2 Right 6889-6942 1913 R-2 Right x6943-6958 1913 R-2 Right 6959-7039 1913 R-2 Right Note: The following cars are Left Drive: 5930, 5939, 6922 and 6934. 7040-7095 1913 M-3 Right x7096-7152 1913 M-3 Right 7153-7154 1913 M-3 Right x7155-7157 1913 M-3 Right 7158 1913 M-3 Right x7159 1913 M-3 Right 7160 1913 M-3 Right x7161 1913 M-3 Right 7162 1913 M-3 Right x7163 1913 M-3 Right 7164-7173 1913 M-3 Right x7174 1913 M-3 Right 7175 1913 M-3 Right x7176 1913 M-3 Right 7177-7178 1913 M-3 Right x7179-7186 1913 M-3 Right 7187-7189 1913 M-3 Right 1913 Cars marked x carried over to 1914, and given new numbers 7190-7300 Not Used 7301-7481 1914 M-4 Left c7482-7581 1914 M-4 Left 7582-7604 1914 M-4 Left c7605-7616 1914 M-4 Left 7617-7668 1914 M-4 Left c7669-7676 1914 M-4 Left 7677-7800 No Comment 7801-7857 (14) 7096-7152 (13) Left 7858-7865 (14) 7179-7186 (13) Left 7866 (14) 7159 (13) Left 7867 (14) 7161 (13) Left 7868 (14) 7176 (13) Left 7869 (14) 7156 (13) Left 7870 (14) 7157 (13) Left 7871 (14) 7174 (13) Left 7872 (14) 7155 (13) Left 7873 (14) 7163 (13) Left 7874-8000 Not Used 8001-8136 1914 R-3 Left c8137-8146 1914 R-3 Left 8147-8181 1914 R-3 Left c8182-8186 1914 R-3 Left 8187-8234 1914 R-3 Left c8235-8240 1914 R-3 Left 8241-8322 1914 R-3 Left c8323-8326 1914 R-3 Left 8327-8700 Not Used 8701-8708 (1914) 6803-6813 (13) R Left 8709-8782 (1914) 6815-6888 (13) R Left 8783 Not Used 8784-8799 (1914) 6943-6958 (13) R Left 1914 Cars marked c cancelled 8800-8995 1915 M-5 Left 8996-9099 Not Used 9100-9399 1915 M-5 Left 9400-10000 1915 R-4 Left 10001-10600 1916 M-6 Left 10601-11299 1916 R-6 Left 11300-12000 1917 M-7 Left 12001-12810 1917 R-7 Left 12811-13060 1917 M-7 Left 14100 - 14,979 1918 R-7 Left 15,021 - 16,250 1919 R-7 Left 17,000 and up 1920 R-7 Left 18,101 and up 1921-23 R-7 Left 19,001 and up 1924-25 Series 10 Left 33,101-33,324 1926 Model 90 Left Notes: In 1912 Loco smaller 38 H.P. model, introduced in 1912, following the lead by competitor Pierce-Arrow. Model 38 Series 2 (R-38-2) began with Serial number 5690 in 1912 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 This chart came from the Locomobile Society link, the source of my understanding of the 1917 year, although I did find a 1920 date on the transmission so you may be correct. I also notice the list shows 8327-8700 Not Used yet I do have a crank case and rods marked 8656 so I am not clear on the accuracy of the info. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George K Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 Be aware that the Locomobile Society data is listing automobile serial numbers. Serial numbers are on dash tags. The serial number and engine numbers are different. Just search Locomobile auction results. Good auction houses list both. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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