Ittenbacher Frank

the first sunshine...

Dear Al, what are the news? Could you machine the piston to the required compression height? How much of wall thickness is remaining at the crown?

Based on the photos, this model 38-2 series 3 on offer is today equipped with a Berling dual ignition magneto and a Berling ignition coil with switch in the dashboard. I have an early spare parts catalog (No.68) for 38-2, it shows a Bosch ZR6 2-spark dual Magneto and Bosch Dual ignition switch with coil. The Berling equipment is for example matching with the spare parts list for models 48 series 7 (catalog no. 78). I don't know when Locomobile changed from Bosch to Berling. Anyone of you has a parts catalog between 68 and 78? The dowel pin locations in the magneto bracket (which is bolted to the crankcase with 3 bolts) could probably give the answer whether the car was built with Bosch or Berling.

Well done, Steve! Considering the amount of rust on the hollow bolts on top of the cylinders,they are in really good shape. On my tourer which was obviously never neglected or in bad condition, and at least during the last 30 years filled with antifreeze, the shaft thickness above the hexagon had become quite thin and even the corners of the hexagon were partly rusted away! Yours look quite ok in this regard.

can you please explain this a bit more?

Dear Layden, The few German coils which I have seen are like this: Main handle for rotation the complete coil assembly: 4V: M on the left and A on the right. I believe it shall be Magneto and Anlassen (starting) or Ankurbeln (manual cranking) and the remark on the face plate: STELLUNG "A" NICHT DAUERND BEI STILLSTAND means don't leave it on A during resting. Another 4V, "Made in Germany", shows M and B and the additional mark in english language "NOT POSITION "B" WHEN RESTING" on the face plate. On 6V-units: M on the left and B on the right. Ignition powered by Magneto and Ignition powered by Batterie. The little knob on the face of the unit: To the left: Run or Anlassen & Betrieb (start and operate) to the left: Start or Ankurbeln (manual cranking) On a 4V Bosch unit from a french Darracq: On the face plate: JAMAIS SUR <<B>> PENDANT L'ARRET the little knob to the left: DEPART AU CONTACT ET MARCHE the little knob to the right: DEPART A LA MANIVELLE

Thanks a lot, James! Regarding the clutch: Yes, absolutely true. Even today we have similar issues when designing our road milling machines which have most machine functions operated hydraulically except the drive to the milling drum with all these hundreds sharp picks which cut the asphalt surface: 75-90% of the engine power (500-1000 HP, depending to machine size) is transmitted through a dry multi-plate clutch to the milling drum which is really large and weights several tons. We have to achieve enough air flow through the clutch to cool the discs and transport the disk's worn material away, but avoid road dust entering the clutch and getting stuck in places where it can affect the disk's free movement. On the Locomobile we have another issue to consider: Oil mist from the engine or grease from the throw-out-bearing or cross shaft shall never enter the clutch discs! Therefore Riker has closed the clutch housing. Periodic cleaning is required. I did this on my tourer and found very little dust inside. Lothar had done that on his speed car and found it full with huge quantities of dirt. You found cleaning necessary, too. We should call it "preventative maintenance" and just plan to do that when circumstances allow for that work. Maybe after 10 years or 10.000 miles it might be a good idea to plan for that. An inspection pit with lifter is recommended because the clutch unit is really heavy and a tight fit in between flywheel and transmission. The work itself is not complicated. I explained that in an earlier post and showed my self-made tool for releasing the spring pressure. Regarding the rear axle ratio: Please don't mis-understand my question about lower ratios: I am not planning to reach the highest top speed or win any race, but I like the advantage of reduced engine speed at the same cruising speed. Your experience is most welcome for evaluation which ratio is still ok and usable without compromising acceleration or hill climbing abilities. Al explained what happened with his Chevy if you try a very fast ratio in mountain areas: Poor performance, no fun, you lose more than you gain. One question: Do you know the weight of your Sportif? I like to add another consideration which I learned when operation a large fleet of off-highway-trucks in mountainous area: If the average engine-RpM is reduced by lowering the rear axle ratio, then the water pump speed is reduced, too, and you can probably find operating temperatures (water and oil) increasing! But the necessary torque required from the engine is increased. There were reasons why Locomobile offered so many different ratios for their cars.

Dear James, nice to hear froom you again! I didn't know you had to work on your Sportifs rear axle. I only knew about chutch trouble. How did you solve that? Now you changed from 3,2 to 3,07. How much difference do you feel on the road? Your feedback is very much appreciated! Kind regards Frank

Dear Ed, thanks for your input. I fully agree. Please share more from the old expert's knowledge. One question: You suggest to use modern ring packages. Does that include chromed rings, or do you specifically ask for non-chromed rings? I was told these rings with hard chrome surface works well in modern liners but will damage the bores of old engines which have no liners. Is that true? Does that apply to Locomobile engine blocks? Somewhere I read the bores were treated, not just drilled into soft cast iron. I am keen to learn more about these experiences.

Dear Al, I used the quiet Chrismas day for uploading the stuff. Investigation and preparation took several days and even more nights in advance. I like to ask you for two things which you can easily contribute to this topic: 1. share the engine-related papes of the series-19000-spare part book. 2. measure one of your series-19000-pistons in the same way I did (same positions, once in longitudinal direction and then crosswise, put them into an Excel-table for comparison. Then we can all learn from the factory updates.

Dear Dan, I am not planning to put the engine anywhere but on the normal road. I am satisfied with the road performance, that is enough for me at this moment. See the official performance chart: 82.5 HP for 1915. Additionally I can tell you: My tourer's weight is 2480 kg, plus 2 people, assume 5800 lbs. Rear axle 3.85. On a 1:10-gradient there is still some acceleration in high gear. This is nice but not all you need. Low-end-torque and smoothness shall not be forgotten. Yesterday I was forced to follow a bicycle for some time. Slightly uphill, 4th gear, perhaps 10 mph? When a gap in the oncoming traffic appears, you just step on the accelerator and go. No shaking or vibrating or sputtering. You get used to this kind of driving like with an automatic transmission.

You don't need a scope (endoscope), just look or use your finger. The combustion chamber is lage enough...after you removed one valve cap. My Tourer (with aluminium pistons as shown above) seems flat as well as the Sedan.

yes but no success yet. I am preparing a report, needs a bit more of nightime.

Now it is enough for today. Merry Christmas!

6. Another possibility is searching for the piston manufacturer who made the aluminium pistons for my 1916 tourer which were used during overhaul in approximately 1959/1960: See the photos with casting numbers. Does anyone get an idea who made these pistons when looking at these photos? Side note: These people knew what they did. They even drilled holes into some of the pistons, assumingly for equalizing their weight. I was told that after assembly the complete crankshaft-conrod-piston-flywheel-clutch-assembly was dynamically balanced. As a proof I found a small weight additionally welded onto the circumference of the clutch body.