Jennifer Mitchell Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 My name is Jennifer Mitchell and I just purchased this beautiful lady. Preserving her will be a labor of love for my dad and I. Dad’s super mechanical and I’m detail oriented so we’re going to have great father daughter bonding over Miss Peggy Jean. Our goal is to keep her original, she’s earned every blemish she has. Any suggestions, advice or comments would be appreciated. Planning on coming to the fall meet and look for some parts we know we need. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Jennifer, Welcome to the Buick Pre War Forum. Your photos look very promising that you have found one in really good condition to start with. I always send this link for our New PreWar Buick owners for specific areas to be aware of. In particular see the posting on February 16 2020. If you cannot get copies of all the articles that I point out in the new Buick owners notes, let me know. There are a lot of pot metal parts that need to be addressed. Once you have all these sorted, these are great cars to drive. Hugh https://forums.aaca.org/topic/340150-1923-23-45-hasnt-run-in-years-needs-who-knows-what/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Mitchell Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 Thanks for the welcome and the great info. My dad found a post somewhere by a guy that used his experience as a “what NOT to do “ its great to have a reference for “what TO do “. Hope to meet you at the fall meet so I can mine your experience. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Wise Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 (edited) Jennifer, Beautifull car. Thanks for the photo,s. I,m sure you and your father will have fun working on it. What,s the interior like. I have a 1925 Master tourer, which is mechanicaly the same as yours. Well, with just a couple of small changes, as there were not many years when Buick didn,t make any changes. Rod Edited September 25, 2021 by Rod Wise (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Mitchell Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 Hey Rod. I don’t think the interior is in too bad of shape for its age. I’m concerned about cleaning it up without further damaging it. What would you suggest? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michealbernal Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 This a truly beautiful car and to think it has survived almost 100 years. What a piece of history. DO NOT try to drive this car like a modern car. Jack rabbit starts away from stop signs/lites and driving right up to stops and then slamming on the brakes does not work and you will be disappointed in the car. Page back thru the forum and find some of the driving instructions and follow them. You will have a rewarding experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 This is 25-47 I promised to photograph today: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 When you are at Hershey, look up Dean Tryon. Visit the BCA tent. They have a list of Buick vendors that are Buick specific. The early Buick folks congregate at Dean's vendor space. Enjoy your great car Bob Engle I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 Take lots and lots and lots of every photo and every detail so you have a point in reference for everything Your car looks very well preserved 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Mitchell Posted September 26, 2021 Author Share Posted September 26, 2021 Thanks so much. Morgan, she’s so gorgeous. I hope ours looks half as good when we’re done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 The thing missing from your dashboard is the speedo by the way Probably one of the first things to work out is what you want to do with the car, do you want to fully restore it? clean it up? make it a driver? There are some folks on here that like patina and others who go for a full restoration. It's hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like your car has been well looked after and is just dusty I would suggest also making a list of recomissioning tasks (the guys on here will be able to help you) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Mitchell Posted September 27, 2021 Author Share Posted September 27, 2021 The plan is to preserve pretty much as she sits. Driving is the goal. There are some parts of the speedo in a coffee can in the car but I haven't gotten into looking at all that yet. Transporting to my dad's garage in a couple weeks. Then it's time to start the cleaning process. Hugh sent me a great post about what to do to get her running. The last time she ran was about 25 years ago. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 It looks like your fuel line isn't connected to the carburetter, which is probably a good thing as it's something that needs to be cleaned out 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 To my eye is that the car had a cosmetic exterior restoration over 25 years ago as to when Jennifer indicates that it was last run. The big thing in that era was to strip the painted and striped wheel spokes and varnish them. My 1925 Master touring car had the same thing done. The distributer has been changed/ modified to a more modern substitute. This will be a plus in getting it running. It would be good to be able to identify what are the model/applications of the components that were used for the substitution so as to be able to secure new parts. (ususlly much cheaper than original period components.) The original pot metal ignition switches and distributer housings are usualy very badly cracked and swollen. If the car was running 25 years ago it may have at least had the ingintion switch rebuilt with reproduction parts. I have worked on many Standard and Master style AC speedometers and I have yet to get a functioning one for my Master. More POT METAL..... Typical condition of the speedometer. WE will be at Hershey at space C4M 44-45. I will have some 1924 parts and later. I realize you will need time to sort some things out to understand your needs but I have some local sources for 1924 parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Mitchell Posted September 27, 2021 Author Share Posted September 27, 2021 Omg, thanks for the info. I'm grateful there are so many people to get advice from! I'm planning on bringing some things from Peggy Jean over to see what I can find. I'll definitely seek you out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 It looks like the dogbone is missing from your radiator. If it was missing for the whole 25 years, it's almost a guarantee that mice have built nests in the radiator's upper tank. Don't even dream of adding fluids to the radiator until you remove the radiator, turn it upside down, and back flush it to get the dead mice and all the acorns out. I use the word acorns to be polite. If you add fluids you will wash the "acorns" into the honeycomb of the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critterpainter Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 2 things NOT to do 1 Do NOT try to turn the engine over without first making sure the water pump is not stuck. The water pump is gear driven and the cam gear is fiber. That gear is hard to change and harder to find. 2. Do Not run the engine without adding oil to the radiator fan. Instructions are in the owners manual. There is a change that the prior owner converted it to sealed bearings. That would be a good thing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critterpainter Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Also if you go to Hershey Go to Bobs Automobilia at space GDI 2 through 4 They are a wealth of info and can supply some parts (including rebuilding ignition switches) Tell em Bill with the 02 Thunderbird sent you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Mitchell Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 Thanks to you both. I'll drop your name Bill! The dog one is present and was on her, so the radiator was sealed off. I took it home to work on cleaning it up. Unfortunately, it was more fragile than I thought, and the left side broke off 😪 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 (edited) If the dogbone is removed, you can shake the thermometer red down into the base like you would an old thermometer. It is a little hard on the wrist, so best if you can get a high school kid to do that because it does take a whipping action. When you do get the bottom nut off the motometer, you will want to replace it with a stainless internal star lock washer and a brass nut. McMaster Carr has those parts. www.restorationstuff.com has motometer parts. I tried bumping the motometer as well, but did not have as much success. You have to always keep these upright. Hugh Edited September 29, 2021 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 On 9/28/2021 at 10:58 AM, Hubert_25-25 said: I tried bumping the motometer as well, but did not have as much success. You have to always keep these upright. I had one that I had to do it to, it took a long long time to get it right again 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 You have to be determined to get the fluid into the bottom. It will test your patience. I suggest a 6 pack and 6 friends and everyone taking a turn because it will tire you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 3 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said: You have to be determined to get the fluid into the bottom. It will test your patience. I suggest a 6 pack and 6 friends and everyone taking a turn because it will tire you out. I did it while watching TV but yes it's very good exercise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Mitchell Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 I've got friends in low places and a keg so we'll see how it works out. Again, thank for the helpful info! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 I bet you can get all the fluid in the bulb by putting it in the freezer. If not cold enough, send it to me in January. We get -20 up here all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Mitchell Posted August 7, 2022 Author Share Posted August 7, 2022 SHE TURNS OVER!!! It's taken quite a bit to get here. Had starter completely rebuilt, new coil and all. The guy did an outstanding job and absolutely loved getting his hands on something different than he usually works on. He had about 100 hours in the project. It works perfectly. 2,4 &6 had 0 compression tho. 1&3 had 35 psi and 5 had 50. Beautiful progress is being made and I'm so grateful for my dad and cousin Pike. Onward!!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted August 8, 2022 Share Posted August 8, 2022 1 hour ago, Jennifer Mitchell said: 2,4 &6 had 0 compression tho. Probably carbon, rust and/or other crud holding the valve open. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Mitchell Posted August 8, 2022 Author Share Posted August 8, 2022 That's what we're looking at next 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 8, 2022 Share Posted August 8, 2022 Should be above 50 probably closer to 60. After I did the valves and rings on my 1917 Buick, they were all in the 60's one was 70! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted August 10, 2022 Share Posted August 10, 2022 (edited) Jennifer, I am glad that your motor is not frozen. Is the distributor turning when the motor cranks over? (This is a check that your camshaft gear is OK) I am in the middle of documenting 2 engines that I have pulled apart. A 1925 and a 1926 Buick. Have you dropped the pan on this motor? If you have not done that, I suggest it because I have seen a lot with broken oil pick up screens and broken solder joints on the main bearing oil feed lines. There is also usually sludge accumulation that needs to be cleared out. I am very concerned about the valve train. Sounds like some of the valves are hanging open. It is likely just the valve, but I would remove all the cam rollers for cleaning and lubrication. - Remove the valve cover and the two engine side covers. - Use a 7/16” line wrench when removing the oil feed line at the back of the rocker shaft. Only loosen the vertical tubing connection. Loosen the vertical connection at the rate of loosening the rocker shaft fasteners. This allows the rocker shaft to raise up as the tube fitting is being loosened. Once the rocker shaft is removed, remove the pushrods and lifters. Keep all the parts in order for reassembly. Consider engraving them so that there is no mix up. - Lay out the rocker assembly. Disassemble, clean, and reassemble using assembly lube. Try to get some oil to the valve stem. You can tap on them with a rubber mallet. If you dont have a cylinder leak tester, you can also put 30 psi in each cylinder using your compression tester hose. Listen for air blowing in the exhaust or at the carburetor. Hugh Edited August 11, 2022 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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