Steering Gearbox Rebuild

[my first riv]

Just thought I would share my rebuild experience, my gearbox was leaking from every seal but in otherwise good working condition and I knew I either had to replace it which seemed silly since it was just leaking fluid and original to my Riv. I bought my rebuild kit from Rockauto for right around $18 which is a far cry from the over $300 you would pay for a replacement one, the kit I used for my 64 is: EDELMANN 7857 it came with both bearings and all seals and I figured even if I screw up and need a second kit (I did screw up one part) that I'm still a far cry away from $300! Tearing the pump down after removing from my car was actually pretty straight forward, take your time and when tearing it down use a semi deep tray to catch the fluid that will come out and the ball bearings that will follow (I used an old top for a plastic tote bin I had laying around an worked great). Have a magnetic parts bowl handy to put all your spare parts and ball bearings in as well, The vid I watched his gearbox had 24 ball bearings but mine only had 22 and another vid author said they have between 24-26 ball bearings but I don't think mine was missing any and it came from Saginaw with only 22 and was an earlier design compared to theirs. I watched some Youtube videos as well and they really helped with the various parts of the rebuild that the repair manual and instruction sheet that came with the kit don't include, I can't stress enough as to how helpful the various vids were for the rebuild. Once I had it all tore down I cleaned the case and painted it with rattle can paint and gave the aluminum caps a minor polishing so it looks better. One big tip I got from the videos is pay attention to how it came apart and keep all the internals stacked exactly how they came out of the case and replace the O rings and teflon seals one at a time to match them up to the twin in the kit, this is very important as there are many O rings that are similar but not a perfect size match and you don't want to stretch out the wrong one. Also another good tip is be very careful with the teflon seals as they can be easy to stretch and they don't snap back to shape, once they are overstretched you'll need new ones, one tip is submerge them in boiling hot water for a few minutes to let the heat expand them and then install them and let them sit in their new home over night so the relax back to shape. I had to let mine sit over night before they would fit back inside the case. Another tip is using bearing grease to hold the ball bearings in place when reassembling the gear box, worked great for me. The one video I watched had the author doing the bearings differently then I was able to install mine as the bolts holding the bearing guide loop were actually standard head machine screws instead of bolts like he had in the video. I'm sure that I am making this sound complicated but it really wasn't if you are decently mechanically inclined and have rebuilt other systems of a car you should be fine to rebuild one, just take your time and pictures if that helps you. I'll include a few pics I took of my rebuild, the first one is after I painted the case.

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[my first riv]

Here's another of it apart in my makeshift tray. As you can see there is a fair amount of fluid that comes out so using something to catch it really helps.

[my first riv]

This pic is after I cleaned everything up and shows basically all the major internals of the gearbox better.

[my first riv]

Final pic I have is after I polished up the aluminum caps.

[my first riv]

One final tip is the squarish aluminum cover has that center nut and that should not be removed or loosened as it is part of the factory load preset and you don't want to start messing with that so best to leave it be.

[JZRIV]

Note that there are silver balls that are one size and black/dark gray balls that are maybe .010 smaller diameter. As I recall I think they go in alternately. From memory I am pretty sure my 66 had 22 balls.

I always said it takes a lot of balls to rebuild one of these. Not many people want to tackle it. Good work. 

[EmTee]

You're my new hero!  Thanks for posting this, as for me, much is simply 'fear of the unknown'.  Those tips you and Jason mention, along with the shop manual should be enough to allow anyone so inclined to replicate your result. 

[telriv]

OR, you could purchase one of "My" proper fast ratio "808" steering boxes for the full size cars & not only have a better box but also a faster ratio which will bring the steering response/feeling into the newer, modern steering of today.

 

Tom T.

Edited October 16, 2021 by telriv (see edit history)

[XframeFX]

On 9/4/2021 at 10:44 AM, JZRIV said:

I always said it takes a lot of balls to rebuild one of these. Not many people want to tackle it. Good work.

Thanks for the details on the rebuild Mark.

My project has been quite an occupation. Time is too dear to me. So, if I can exchange a module rather than rebuild it myself, I'll do it. However, the total cost has to be considered.

A rebuild is an opportunity for an upgrade as Teriv stated and repeated below.

1 hour ago, telriv said:

OR, you could purchase one of "My" propoer fast ratio "808" steering boxes for the full size cars & not only have a better box but also a faster ratio which will bring the steering response/feeling into the newer, modern steering of today.

The steering Gear is only 30lbs but shipping is an absolute Killer and adds significantly to the total cost to me north of the border. Sending off my steering gear for exchange costs more in shipping than a "core charge"!

Approximately $1000 CAD. I'm re-considering. . . . . . .

[XframeFX]

Shipping solution: Dismantle my steering gear to send in 3 easy packets!

 

 

Edited September 7, 2021 by XframeFX (see edit history)

[telriv]

On all the P/S boxes I sell I pack them in a Large Flat Rate box from the P.O.  The Flat Rate box is free. Of course the box is really not H/D enough for an "808" box.  I have been selling these boxes for a few years now.  I line the top, sides & bottom with paneling I can normally get from dumpsters where a house tear down/remodel is being done. Just remember to ask 1st.   Usually the same can be reused to return the core box.  Best thing the cost is $21.90 & it's priority mail at 3 days.  I have had it get to Ca. in less than 48 hrs. from Ct. barring any unforseen problems.

 

Tom T.

[EmTee]

8 hours ago, telriv said:

On all the P/S boxes I sell I pack them in a Large Flat Rate box from the P.O. 

 

Brings new meaning to the phrase "pushing the envelope"... 

[my first riv]

18 hours ago, telriv said:

OR, you could purchase one of "My" propoer fast ratio "808" steering boxes for the full size cars & not only have a better box but also a faster ratio which will bring the steering response/feeling into the newer, modern steering of today.

 

Tom T.

I appreciate that you sell new ones that are better, faster etc, my point of this post was to show/ tell those that think they can't rebuild theirs due to fear of the unknown, that there really isn't much to them and spending less then $20 and a few hours they can have a none leaking gearbox versus purchasing one for a couple hundred dollars. Specifically if they are on a budget for their car, which most are, they can spend that money elsewhere and still get the same result of a gearbox that doesn't leak.

[60FlatTop]

On the home rebuilds you need to be careful about the surface of the pitman arm shaft seal surface. After years of leaking and possible wear from rotating in road grit you may find the seal will leak shortly after installation due to wear on the shaft.

Even just replacing the seal on a used box can be a short lived fix. You might get lucky and have the seal mate on a different spot on the shaft but it is only something you want to do for yourself. On a for hire job the risk of a return is too high.

[telriv]

I TOTALLY understand where you're coming from.

It was just added as an option IF someone wanted something better than available as stock.

Many have used one of my boxes & as far as I know they are all happy.

About the pitting, non perfect sealing area on the pitman shaft, use a readi-sleeve the correct diameter to repair the problem WITHOUT  going to the trouble & finding a good used or brand new one.

 

Tom T.

[Turbinator]

On 9/7/2021 at 9:00 AM, EmTee said:

 

Brings new meaning to the phrase "pushing the envelope"... 

pushing the envelope on phrasing I’ve been amused with remanufactured, reconditioned, and restored. Newly remanufactured description is a good one as well. There have been times in my past I’ve made serious investments for fast solutions only to learn had I had more information I’d have spent less money.

On the other hand I’ve been fortunate in my professional career handling reconditioned and remanufactured equipment. 
Turbinator

[Paul K.]

On 9/6/2021 at 9:22 PM, telriv said:

On all the P/S boxes I sell I pack them in a Large Flat Rate box from the P.O.  The Flat Rate box is free. Of course the box is really not H/D enough for an "808" box.  I have been selling these boxes for a few years now.  I line the top, sides & bottom with paneling I can normally get from dumpsters where a house tear down/remodel is being done. Just remember to ask 1st.   Usually the same can be reused to return the core box.  Best thing the cost is $21.90 & it's priority mail at 3 days.  I have had it get to Ca. in less than 48 hrs. from Ct. barring any unforseen problems.

 

Tom T.

 

Tom, can you provide an approximate price for one of your boxes? Any core charges? Thanks. 

[psychostang]

Always remember, that when you ship to/from Canada, use the USPS/Canada Post.  They have an agreement, where there is no broker fee.  You still go thru customs though. 

[XframeFX]

5 hours ago, psychostang said:

Always remember, that when you ship to/from Canada, use the USPS/Canada Post.  They have an agreement, where there is no broker fee.  You still go thru customs though.

Absolutely. Those hard-done-by courier companies think all their Customers want over night express. For a project? Are you kidding? Slowest cheapest for me SVP.

I'm not big with On-Line orders either, special instructions seldom make the shipment. I call in my orders and ask to have harmonized code 9966.00.00 added to the description being "Antique Auto Parts".

I have I few items to place before Xmas. No rush of course with snow on the ground but, postal service is dreadfully slow as it is.

[telriv]

For the most part I use USPS exclusively unless asked by a customer to do otherwise. The service is really pretty good especially with Priority Mail Flat Rate Boxes.

 

Tom T.